timsford

Everyone on here seems to really like the pfleugers, I personally prefer daiwa. I use the tournament Ss 1300's mostly but also have a few of the new procyons. Both can be found right around 100. The tournament Ss is an old design they have been making for well over 20 years unchanged and it isn't as refined as new reels but lasts forever and will handle any fish you can hook. The procyons have done well and are much smoother and have an aluminum frame. The president is one I have avoided because it is heavy Imo to have a graphite frame and if you look at the line capacitys, the pfleugers hold way less line than the others. I'd have to get a 30 or 35 size pfleugers to hold as much line as my 2500 procyon. Also i have several guys in the local club and a guode that im friends with and all who have owned pfleugers say they get rough within a few years, especially if you fish for stripers like i do. The pfleugers above the president are made of magnesium but if you want to use it in salt it isnt saltwater friendly. Same reason I don't use quantum anymore because every quantum I've ever owned has gotten rougher over just a few seasons and it's about impossible to source parts although the energy does look nice and has a spare spool. I had an okuma Rtx which was a very lightweight nice reel for the 80 bucks I gave, but it just didn't have the power I needed and I was always worried that it would flex and ruin internals so I sold it. The shimano reels under the stradic are all graphite framed reels as well. I've bought and sold and traded a lot of reels and I've just kept coming back to daiwa. Still even with daiwa the procyon or maybe the new bg would be the only new ones i want because i want a reel that will last and for me that means aluminum frame and not graphite, ci4, or whatever each company wants to call what is basically plastic. Most reels are made of this now because everyone is so worried about the reel being lighter weight and also because it's cheaper.

I usually use mine without a rattle but when i do use one i use the bite me rattling tube jigheads. If the rattles are coming off either wrap them with electrical tape or use heat shrink to hold them in place before inserting the head in the tube. I used to do this with regular tube heads before I found the bite me heads

If it is that hot concentrate on shade, around any current or cooler water coming into the lake or pond, or deeper structure like Creek channels, points and humps. About any lure you normally use shallow will work, but I find that most of the time I catch more when it's hot either working plastics SLOW, or using cranks or other reaction baits and hitting cover or moving erratically and making fish bite. In the deeper water the main thing is to find bait on your graph. The fish will usually be around baitfish. Jigs work good but sometimes try stroking the jig (ripping it up off the bottom a few feet, almost like setting the hook). A lot of times this will cause reaction strikes even when they aren't feeding and won't hit a jig dragged on the bottom. Other deep baits I like to use are magnum cranks like the 10xd, Carolina rigs, Texas rigged 10 inch worms, 8-10 inch worms on shaky heads or swinging football heads, large 1 oz plus spinner baits slow rolled near the bottom (I use a single willow blade so it doesn't lift), swimbaits on heavy jigheads both slow rolled and stroked off bottom, and magnum spoons or large white colored hair jigs, stroked like the rubber or silicone jig. If you don't have a graph to find baitfish, then you just have to hope you are fishing the right spot and try to cover water til you find the fish

I don't understand what makes any lure a "beginner" lure. Sure they will catch anything that swims and about all you have to do is cast them out and reel in. I have always been under the impression that catching fish is what's important. If they are biting inlines I don't care who has something to say. They are probably just jealous because you are catching fish and they arent.

I'm curious as to how the smallmouth have mercury worse than the largemouth. They forage on the same types of stuff, mainly baitfish and crawfish. We have a lake around here that has a warning for catfish, but I've never heard of a warning on bass. And I catch way more on the 2 1/2 inch size, but not many big ones on either size. Most of my big bass on topwaters come on walking baits or buzzbaits

I like the shorty better also. Excellent bait with a real unique sound as its walked. Bretts_daddy you are putting together quite the collection of jdm topwaters. I worked it out with my wife by buying mostly used baits and then if she said anything I'd show her what they cost new. Then she would say wow you got a great deal and just let it go.

I'll just stick with my cavitrons. I have a couple plopper 130's that I like, but I've always done way better with single blade buzz baits than the double ones anyways, and for the price of this contraption I could buy a couple and a pack of trailer hooks

I can cast them fine on a bait cast reel bug I prefer spinning because I'm usually skipping them under tress and docks. Some people prefer bait caster's for skipping but it's just way easier with spinning tackle, especially if you want to use 4 inch stickworms, trick worms, or lighter stuff. I know this is off the topic but what is the problem you are having with tangles on your spinning rod?

Concentrate on any deep water structure such as Creek channels, points, and humps while it's hot and sunny. Also anywhere the water is cooler by at least a few degrees like where water enters and exits the pond, and under any shade from trees or weedbeds. When it's cloudy or at night (best time to fish during summer for both bites and comfort imo), look near shallow cover that is close to deep structures. The clouds or darkness usually makes the fish more active. Early in the morning a round daylight and in the evening around sunset can produce great top water bites. As far as baits go match the main forage forms for bass in ponds like bluegill, crappie, craws, and frogs. I use the same types of lures in ponds as I would use if I were fishing the same structure in a large lake. My favorite way to fish ponds is slow rolling a pan fish imitating swimbait like mattlures gills, hudd gills, and similar bitesaround any cover or structure

I haven't hooked a seagull but I was night fishing on a pier below the chickamauga lake dam near Chattanooga one night and watched a heron fly off towing a guys combo across the river. He had a couple of rods cat out and had the rods lea ed against the pier with the line semi tight. There are always a bunch of birds circling over the water and one apparently got caught in the line he had cast and then ended up getting hooked somehow. The bird made horrible noises and kept flying and then the guys rod got pulled over the side of the pier and towed across the river. Possibly one of the funniest things I've seen happen in person

I use all kinds of lengths from a 6' ultralight for casting accuracy around trees while stream fishing all the way up to 7'6" swimbait and deep cranking rods. Longer rods give more casting distance and move more line on Hooksets on long casts or in deep water. Shorter rods are more accurate, easier to skip and roll cast with, and can make a big difference on tip down presentations like jeep baits and walking the dog. I've grown to really like what some probably think of as odd lengths in rods. 6'3" is probably my most used length, and I have several brands and models this length with varying powers. It is the perfect length for me for skipping docks and trees, working poppers, spooks and other walking baits, and for working both hard and soft jerkbaits. I prefer a fast or ex fast rod for this and work jerkbaits with the tip straight down and with harder snaps and jeans instead of pulling it or ripping in sweeping motions to the side. I also really like 6'8" -6'10" rods for target casting with plastics and about any reaction bait. I only use 7ft+ rods when fishing on bottom in deep water to assist with hooksets, for heavier stuff like deep cranks and swimbait that need to be casted as far as possible, and when fishing local tail races for longer casts and more power when fighting stripers.

That's awesome, I think you will be very pleased with it. Which model aetos did you order?

The handles are based on the length and model of the rod. The longer and heavier in power, the longer the handle. It should have a place where it shows which handle is on each rod. If not look on tackle warehouse, because I know for sure they do

Dvt summed your problem up. Many rods rated down to 1/4 oz struggle with that light of a lure. The cheaper lews and abu combos are heavier in power than rated imho, much like the abuse rods sold individually. I used to have a 7' med action vendetta spinning rod rated 1/4-5/8 that would barely load enough for a decent cast with 3/8 oz and had plenty of power for 1/2 oz and 3/4 oz underpins for stripers. Also the line you are using is fairly stiff, 10-12 lb line will cast much better. The braking system on that reel is a simple magnetic system that places constant pressure on the spool comparative to where it is set. That means that if the brakes are half on, they constantly apply that pressure to the spool, no matter how fast it's moving. A centrifugal system or dynamic magnetic system like daiwas mag force z applies more braking as the spool moves faster and less braking when it's moving slower. The braking system plays a huge part in how far you can cast, especially with lighter weight, less aerodynamic lures. The best advice I can give is to try lighter line or braid, and if that doesn't improve your cast enough, to look for a rod with lighter power and/or a reel with a more advanced braking system

The aetos has titanium guides with titanium inserts which are harder on the scale than zirconium but not as hard as sic or torzite. Still there are tons of rods out there with zirconium guides that are used with braid, and a lot of guys use zirconium on customs designed to be used with braid. Since titanium is harder it should be more difficult to groove or damage with braid than zirconium. I've heard of people having grooving issues, but I've yet to see a picture or proof of such. (This is not a stab at fishballer06 or any others, just stating what I've personally seen/experienced.

I would also like to know what guide problems you had so I can keep a look out for it on mine. Not doubting you at all but could you please post pics if you have any or send them to my email? I've heard other people say they had issues, but I've never heard that explained or seen any pics. Also if it was grooving what type of line were you using? Not trying to sound like a broken record, but the aetos still has lifetime warranty and if you did have a problem you can get a new rod

I know that how the combo looks is a big factor to some, but I've never had a fish refuse to bite because my rod and reel were different colors or because I used a daiwa reel on a shimano rod. Not trying to sound judgemental or anything, I just call it like I see it. Between the aetos and crucial, there is no comparison in my opinion unless you just have to have full cork. The aetos is lighter(feels like quite a bit but I haven't put them on a scale), more sensitive(subjective I know but I used my best friend new crucial and he used my aetos and we both felt the same. The aetos was way more sensitive), has better, lighter weight, and stronger guides(titanium on aetos, stainless on crucial) better warranty(lifetime on aetos, 1 year on crucial), is cheaper by around 50 bucks with the clearance price, and looks better to me also, although that is completely subjective. I love the blue blank and the colors of the thread wraps. If the looks bother you that much, use the money saved by buying the aetos on a few blue trim parts for the reel from hedgehog and then it will look great as well as fish great. I apologize for all the long posts, but I like to give as much detail as I can for the reasons I pick the equipment I do. Instead of just saying buy this one cause its better, I try to point out why I think it is better. I also want to point out that I have no business relationship/sponsorship with fenwick. I just really like all of their rods I've fished and putting their whole lineup against other companies, I believe they have one of the best product line ups out there. I'm ordering a world class tomorrow for light Texas rigs, so my helium 3 will definitely be getting some competition. I've fished with shimano, daiwa, quantum, abu, loomis, St croix, powell, dobyns, ***, kistler, falcon, duckett, fenwick, berkley, and probably several other brands I can't think of, and the fenwick hmg, elite techs,and aetos are as nice or nicer than any I've tried at competing price points. I had all this typed before the op threw the zodias in the mix. I'd still pick the aetos as it is half the price and still has the same advantages over the zodias except that the zodias is comparable in weight and sensitivity. If I'm deciding between a 200 rod with 1 year warranty, foam grips and stainless guides or a rod going for under 100 with lifetime warranty, comfortable and grippy cork composite handles, and titanium guides, then the decision is already made for me just by comparing features. I'd go with the aetos if it was hot pink and the reel you had was lime green, but that's just me.

If you are serious about having the best gear on the market, daiwa/megabass would definitely get my vote. Some of the dc reels like metanium/conquest/exsense, the Stella and vanquish spinners, and the newest version of the conquest are definitely top of the line reels built to last. As far as the complete company lineup goes though the daiwas get the nod for me over similar priced non dc shimanos or any other brand, and my tournament ss spinning reels and z2020 will last my lifetime and my kids too unless they sell them. The only quantum I'd be interested in owning would be some of the older round reels that were made in tulsa, ok, usa before quantum decided to farm out their manufacturing to banax. The quantums are nice out of the box but I'd bet my whole tackle room that a shimano or daiwa at the same price point will still be going strong and feeling great long after the quantum has become geary feeling, screams on the cast, and developed play and wobble in the handle and knobs. And if something DID happen to break on the shimano or wear out, the part can be found. Try finding a part for a reel built by an oem supplier for a company who changes reel names/designs every year. KVD and other big name pros do great with quantum, but they can also just get a new reel if something is wearing out and I'm willing to bet KVD could out fish me if I was using a metanium and he had a spin cast reel on a snoopy pole

If you are willing to shell out 260 I'd definitely check out the en vee black and Kistler helium 3 or klx. The en vee is built on a super sensitive 40 ton toray blank and is very light and balanced. The helium 3 is my absolute favorite bottom contact rod and is built on Gary loomis' new brand of blanks, North Fork composites. Both are very simplistic clean builds that are lightweight and extremely nice and sensitive for the price. My helium 3 is extremely close to my buddies glx with recoils as far as sensitivity. Another rod to consider would be the ltb by st croix. Extremely well put together and has a great warranty. Everyone raves about the champion at that price point, but I'd take any of these 3 and even the aetos over the champion 734 I've fished. The dobyns is balanced and clean, but heavier in weight and not quite up to the level of the others as far as sensitivity is concerned imho. Honestly though unless you suffer from numbness of the hands, or just want to spend 260, I think the aetos would be a great rod and you could even buy 2 and pick up a used citica d or g to go on the second one. That is if the price of the d and e series doesn't keep going up

Shaman Calcutta, daily millionaire, ryoga, or pluton, about any abuse ambassador although I'd be looking at the more recent versions with thumbars and more bearings. The upside to round reels are line capacity and low gear ratio for more power. The downside to round reels is weight and how the reel palms in your hand, although many of the 300 size low profiles are hard for me to palm as well. If I was going to spend 300, and was set on a round reel, I'd try to save a little more to put with it and find a used conquest or one of the many limited megabass/daiwa millionares, ryogas, or monoblocks. I prefer a low profile reel for swim baits and currently use 2 different ones depending on size of bait. I use a zillion crazy cranker with ize hlc spool for stuff under 8" Hudds or so, and a daiwa z2020 for the heaviest baits. It's only available in 6 gear or higher, but the 6 gear reels in an a-rig or magnum crank like the 10xd with ease and is comparable to the way my Tatulas feel with a Manns 1 minus. Super powerful, super tough, top of the heap reel from daiwa with the max 3d braking system that is unequaled in my experience. The only reel I might put up against the z2020 would be the conquest. Both can be found used with minor cosmetic stuff for around that price or a little more. Also most 200 size low profiles would work fine in lower gear ratios if you are willing to use braid instead of 25 lb mono or copoly

I was actually going to suggest the aetos, but for some reason I didnt. I have 5 total spinning and casting now since I bought 3 at the clearance price. I own a 6'3" med spinning, 6'3" me spinning, 6'4" med casting, 6'6" ml casting, and 7'1" mh casting. My wife told me a few hours ago she got me the 6'8" mh casting. The 7'1" mh makes a great Texas rig/jig rod, and I'm sure the 6'8" will too and will likely get used more since I like to target cast cover a lot and the shorter length is much more accurate for me. I really like all the aetos and for that matter all the Fenwick I have including the hmg and smallmouth series. The aetos is very light and balanced. It has great feel and is a very crisp blank with excellent sensitivity compared with other rods in that price range and feels better than several more expensive rods I've owned. Also has titanium guides and lifetime warranty and is definitely the best deal out there right now. The 6'9" mh/fast smallmouth series is excellent for Texas rigs also Also how much if exchanged for us dollars is 200 Canadian dollars? I ask this because I have no idea, and I'd imagine a lot of other members here don't either and it would probably help to clarify that so we know what your budget is

The zodias is very nice for 200 and is definitely a step up all around from the crucial. I do like the looks and full cork available on the crucial though. The best rod I've used around 200 or less retail is the St Croix avid or avid x

If it's 100 yards of 10lb or heavier mono, I'd use some mono backing so you didn't have to use so much braid to fill it. If it's a shallow spooled reel I'd use Teflon plumbers tape instead of electrical and do a few wraps to cover the spool. That's all you really have to do unless you are using a deep spooled reel that will use too much line. Is it bait casting or spinning and what reel is it?

A foregrip is becoming hard to find these days. I personally like the no foregrip on casting rods because I palm the reel and that's where most of my hand is except a finger or 2 ahead of the reel. I can definitely sympathize though because I've returned or sold several casting rods because they had exposed threads that bothered me, and quite a few spinning rods for the same issue.

Not all heavy rods can handle that. An abu garcia mh could probably handle it, and definitely the heavy. My tatula heavy frog rod can throw that weight. Phenix, loomis, and lots of other heavy power rods struggle with much over an ounce, even a lot of flipping sticks. If I was the OP with a hundred dollar budget, I'd be searching the Web and looking at store brand and clearance rods and reels and used reels. I buy a lot of used rods and reels, but it will be hard to find a used rod with that budget since whoever is selling it will be paying at least 20-25 bucks just to ship a rod long and powerful enough to throw them. I've used a Berkley lightning rod shock 7'6" heavy that could handle 2oz and cost was around 50 bucks, and I had a team daiwa t rod I bought on closeout at tackle warehouse for 48 bucks and change that could handle it. You might try looking on ebay or on store sites for one of these. I donated both of them to a buddy after I upgraded, but those are the only two off the top of my head other than store brands that would leave enough room for a reel and still be under 100 for the combo. If there are any bass pro, cabelas, gander mtn, academy, or other outdoors stores, try searching their websites for store brand heavy or ex heavy baitcasting rods, musky rods, inshore rods, and others 7'-8' long that have the lure weight rating that matches the baits you want to throw. Most places offer free shipping to the retail brick and mortar stores and free shipping is the only way you will meet budget imo. As long as the rod is rated up to 1 1/2 oz or so it should be able to throw those, but you may end up having to do easy lob casts. Good luck in your search and let us know what you come up with.