Logan S

Personally, I would be careful with this advice...I don't like it when a Co fishes of the opposite side of me for a few reasons. 1: If his/her line is on the opposite side I'm more likely to not know where it is. I have actually had a Co's line get caught in my trolling motor due to this, honest mistake but avoidable nonetheless. This is especially important if you are out fishing in the wind or open water where the boat is likely to move around more than it would if you were tucked in a pocket/cove. 2: If I'm in a pocket or cove fishing I don't like the Co casting off the opposite side to targets for obvious reasons...He would be skipping ahead of me. The idea being that we will be moving through the cove and getting to that side eventually. I know that's not exactly what you are advocating with your post, but it's something Co's should think about that's related... As for stuff to add from the boater side...One thing I always do if I have a new Co in my boat (that I haven't fished with before), is to give them a run down of how I operate. It's usually just a few sentences. 1: Cast where you want, within reason. I'll let you know if you get to aggressive. 2: Stay on the same side as me for a general rule of thumb. 3: Keep the well area clear to step through. I've never really had any issues and I'd like to think most Co's enjoy fishing in my boat

Sorry I can't help you with any clubs local to you...But most clubs will have some sort of membership guy that handles new members coming in. I would just look up some local clubs and reach out to them, they will be able to give you an idea of what to expect. In addition to your fishing gear, make sure you have a good PFD to use as not all boaters will carry an extra. Too bad you're not in our area, we are looking for new co-anglers!

I don't think removing a big fish from a lake really harms the fishery all that much. A big fish is an old fish, which has presumably passed it's genes on to a new generation each spwaning season. There are many variables involved in susataining a healthy bass fishery and removing single large fish is probably low on the importance list. Having said that, I release all bass I catch. I do take them for boat rides during tournaments, but they all get released at the end of the day. I find this statement funny...Since on the Potomac and Upper Bay we get inundated with NY and PA tournament anglers every spring. According to you, our limits would be way too liberal especially compared to PA....Yet, here they come every year...

Ever spent 2+ hours trying and failing to catch a big bedding fish that stuck out like a sore thumb in the sping time? That fish was easy to find... How many times have you fished a spot right after another boat/person and caught fish while they didn't? Happens all the time...The first guy 'found' the fish, if it's so easy after that why didn't he catch them? The successful bass fishermen know how to roll all of the variables presented to them into a plan of action. It's not about a spot or a bait or even a pattern. It's about putting all those and more into a plan to catch a heavier limit than the other guys. Heck, don't forgot about the actual process of landing a big bass after it's hooked either! "Finding" fish is definitely important, but it doesn't mean you automatically win. It's just a part of the overall game. As for the professionals...I think you can say they are combination of the highest skill level with highest dedication level.

Maryland, Virginia, DC, West Virginia, Pennsylvania, Delaware, New York, Tennessee, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Texas, California... +Ontario, Canada Am I winning? lol Looks like I need to start moving west...

I replied before but realized you already have the app, so I deleted it since it was pointless ... I was recommending the Navionics Web App. Either way, it's still a cool resource. What are you looking for? I can give you some general info on the lake. If you want something a little more in depth shoot me a PM.

I have a 2013 200HP model on my boat. Zero issues and great performance. Great motor, I know a few others with ETECs and they share the same feelings about them.

#2 Owner Mosquito's are what I've used for years... This is for the nose-hooking style. Edited to add: Those 1/0 gammy's will work for you, might be a little big if they are the nose-hook style...But it will hook em just fine.

This thread isn't really about laying claim to spots. It's about an angler putting the time in to figure out a productive area, then having another person blantently copy it after seeing the results. Not really limited to a tournament. If you want to fish a tournament, do it! Most people are into sharing as well. This kind of stuff is so minimal in the big picture, it's just something to talk about .

Do you think he will even be successful if he fishes there? If he couldn't figure out it was a productive spot on his own, chances are he'll just spin his wheels while fishing it anyway.... One mistake I have made is putting too much emphasis on a particular spot in the same situation. I was so worried about beating someone else to 'my' spot that I didn't pay attention to the fact that it wasn't productive on that particular day....Ended up staying way too long trying to 'defend' it and had to scramble around to get my limit in the last half of the day. All the places on our tournament schedule are pretty popular, there are no 'secret' spots. I think it would be safe to say most waters where tournaments are held in general are at least similar to that. With GPS, satellite maps, sonar, etc, it's almost impossible to have your own little hidden spots these days. If someone with the experience and knowledge to recognize a quality area utilizes these resources they will find pretty much all the 'secrets' if given enough time. It doesn't bother me if someone is fishing an area I want to for the most part, I'll either come in behind them or move on. What DOES bother me is when someone tries to fish an area specifically because I have/had success there...Similar to what you're describing. Honestly, there's not much you can do to avoid it...Just have to adapt to it and figure out a way to stay successful.

I fish a lot of docks... Even if there are people on a dock as I'm working down a row I'll usually continue on fishing it. I've never run into anyone who wasn't friendly. I've even caught fish from a dock with people on it a few times... The thing is, when I see people on the dock I'll say hello and ask if it's alright to keep fishing through as I come up on it. Nobody has ever said no. I've had a couple encounters with people that came walking down to 'chase me off'... A quick apology and I move on, even when they are rude. No sense in dwelling on it. I usually hit the prime docks early anyway, so the people aren't awake to get mad even if they do care .

I started with an aluminum boat before going to a full size boat. I think it's smart and I usually recommend it when people ask. You will learn how to be a boater for much less cash and much less maintenance. You can also fish smaller waters or rivers where you can't take a glass boat if you have those in your area. Most important thing is you will learn exactly what you want when you get a full size boat...You will know what limitations you can live with and which you can't. It makes your decision on the full size rig much easier.

If he asked you to pay for the whole tank and not split it, then I'd say that's excessive. Getting it sqaured away first thing in the morning is the best thing you can possibly do. When you are launching or getting ready all you gotta say is, "Hey I brought some cash with me, what do you think is a fair amount for what we're doing today?" As for him running around...Well, at the risk of sound a little jerk-ish, I have no sympathy for a co there. It's possible the guy had a plan and it's also possible he was absolutly clueless...But that's just one of the burdens of being a co-angler, you go where the boat the goes. There are certain lakes here where I will run around like that. Granted, I usually put fish in the boat unlike your guy...But sometimes running around IS the plan, even if it doesn't work. Problem is, when you fish that way you usually don't know your plan is busted til it's to late For any co-anglers reading....You have no idea what a great value this is to a boater. If my co can do either of these two things they are instantly on my good side! Just don't try to learn on the tournament day and don't offer until you are completely comfortable with it...I don't mind if they can't do it, its just a great bonus when they can.

I fish a lot of tournaments each year, at least 13 as that is our regular schedule. Without a doubt the number one reason for dead fish that I have seen has nothing to do with the actual conditions... People just flat out don't maintain their livewells and/or batteries. Most often it's just batteries....They are either old, not sufficient for all day cranking/accessory use, or both. Battery starts to die and the guy is forced to use the livewell less or even turn it off. All the other fish care tips are great and they do help...But the most important thing you can do is make sure your equipment works properly. You would be surprised at how many TX angler's don't... FWIW, I very rarely have a dead fish penalty and 99% of the time I don't take any extra precautions. I just run my wells when there are fish in them. Even in the summer on the Potomac, I rarely run into issues where I'm worried about the fish...My stuff works and I let it run.

I think it's common courtesy to offer if you're a non-boater. You're not obligated to give me anything, but I'm also not obligated to ever take you out again. I don't necessarily expect anything, but I will usually accept cash if it's offered. If I go out with another boater, I'll always offer. Now, somebody with an attitude like you're describing? Yea, they won't be seeing the back deck of my boat again... With that attitude you shouldn't be surprised to get back seated. After all, your argument is basically "every man for himself"...So why would the boater go out of his way to give you any casting room or good water to fish? You both signed up fair and square, you don't owe him anything and he doesn't owe you anything...Right? Fair is fair both ways... (Disclaimer: That's not how I operate, just expanding that line of thought...I think most co's are happy to fish with me ) Obviously, there are boaters who take it too far, we all know one or two...But what you're advocating is a good way to be just as bad as they are, albeit in the opposite direction. Edited to add: I made another post shortly after this one, but decided to delete it since it didn't add anything constructive.

If you're dead-set on not going the club route then look up the BFL schedule for your region. They are big, but they are well organized and you will definately get the full tournament experience. I would advise against trolling the boat ramps with cash and tackle though . Even opens you have to sign up for. Also know that there is no social or attendance requirement for the vast majority of clubs or open events...But you should at least be a little social/personable. After all, you'll be sharing a boat with someone for 8 or 9 hours. I would at least consider the club option. You can always look up few in your area and see if their format fits what you want to do. Obviously, I'm a little biased since I belong to a great one . Most clubs are big on learning with a little friendly competition thrown in...

I posted this in the other thread... http://www.bigindianabass.com/big_indiana_bass/the-truth-about-fluorocarbon.html The actual answers to your questions are here The other post is 7 pages long with a bunch of individual anecdotes....But there is some good info there. As always, bottom line is that if you DON'T like it...Don't use it Flouro does stretch and compared to braid it would seem like a lot. There are advantages in my opinion over braid, but ultimately that's your decision to make.

I will agree with this...I think the barometer is largely irrelevant in terms of fishing. The most it's ever going to change is insignificant when dealing with things under the water's surface. You are a little off on atmospheric equivalent depths though, one ATM is equal to 33 feet of water. The surface is 1 ATM, 33 feet is 2 ATM, 66 feet is 3 ATM and so on.... Still, your overall point is correct in my opinion. Atmospheric pressure is largely irrelevant when you consider the effects under the surface of the water. Surface pressure is on average 1013ish millibars, even the nastiest front will only drop it maybe 20ish millibars? You're only talking about 1-2% of change....The same as moving up or down underwater less than 1 foot. Think of how many times a day a fish does that... When it comes to weather affecting the fishing I think there are 4 major players. Cloud cover, wind, precipitation, and temperature....More or less in that order (with clouds/wind being very close). You add in another whole host of variables when you consider what effect that has on the water clarity, current, level, etc.... It's a lot to think about, which is why I always think the best plan is to fish the conditions as presented and see what you figure out .

Personally, I like the heavier rods. I like the backbone since spinnerbaits have heavier wire hooks, similar to a jig. If I get short strikes the first thing I'll do is speed up my retrieve, usually gets a better reaction. If that doesn't work I'll slow down. If that doesn't work I'll try something else. If that doesn't work I'll blame it on Perch . (I do always use a trailer hook) I do know some guys whose opinion/skills I trust, that use the crankbait style rods though (like a MH-Moderate).... I think it's one of those grey areas in tackle selection where both answers can be right, just depends on what you like.

It could be tough...Rule of thumb I've found to be pretty accurate is below. 1st Day/Day of the front: Toss up, can be really good or bad or anything in between depending on conditions. 2nd Day: Typically the tougher day, but fish are there to be caught. 3rd Day: Starts to rebound, fishing usually average or better. Take what the conditions give you and keep an open mind, better than sitting at home. High skies and wind are probably going to greet you at the lake, just fish accordingly.

Your club sounds pretty similar to ours, set-up wise. Sounds like your members are afraid that if you allow open boats it will turn into an all boater affair? It's a legitimate thought, as it an be an be an advantage to fish alone for a number of reasons. It can take away the non-boaters incentive to keep fishing if there are too many boaters to compete against I guess. Our club allows open boats, we have 1 or 2 every now and then these days. We used to have waiting lists for non-boaters though, but many have bought boats and evened the numbers out. One thing we did a while ago was to separate the boaters and non-boaters into separate divisions. The boaters only compete against other boaters and same for the co-anglers. For both individual TX's and AOY. We did this because it can be difficult to compete out of the back of a boat against the guys in the front....The results showed it as well, as we never had a non-boater win AOY. We felt it was better to split into divisions to avoid having the co-anglers feel like they were just adding to the pot. It has worked well for us and it brings out a fun competitiveness in everyone...Since boaters not only want to do well themselves, but most also want to put their Co-anglers on fish to win (since they are competing against each other). Really though, I think the most important thing you can do to keep a club healthy is bringing in new members. Without new members the club will eventually slow down...We do things like kids fishing derbies and fishing seminars to try to draw new members. We also keep our website updated and that is actually what draws most new members. That all depends on how your club is set up though, we try to keep ours very open. I think forcing boaters to get in another boat will do more harm than good in the long run...I would not like that rule at all! Sorry I don't have more advice for you, hope it all turns out for the best.

Regardless, the point is tie them carefully...I particularly like the palomar because there's not a lot of line to move/twist when you tie it. Friction when tying is a huge knot killer. Any of the popular knots will work provided you do it properly, I'll stick to the palomar. I know how it works on lines . Flouro doesn't absorb water like mono/copoly does...So in essence what you are doing is simply lubricating your flouro with L&L. Maybe that helps some people? On mono it absorbs into the line and makes it more manageable (incidentally, you can get the same effect by soaking it in water, AKA fishing with it for a few dozen casts). For the record, I've used it...I didn't find any changes on flouro. For the OP and anyone else interested, I found this article a while ago to be very interesting. It's good breakdown of mono/flouro from a somewhat scientific standpoint. The whole article is a good read and related to this discussion, but for what we are talking about here, pay close attention the paragraph on Water Absorption . http://www.bigindianabass.com/big_indiana_bass/the-truth-about-fluorocarbon.html (I'm not affiliated in anyway with this site, just found it on the net and bookmarked it) You obviously have a different opinion than me, that's OK. Like I've said multiple times, don't let me stop you! Someone reading this thread can look at all the information and make their own decision on what to try/not try. No such thing as too much information. The biggest mistake you can make is thinking you've already learned everything. A lot of fisherman stay away from fluoro because of talk like this...Where people say you NEED to buy 'quality' AKA expensive line, treat it with magical spray, tie the special knot, etc, etc, etc, ......I like to point out that it's really much simpler than that. Buy flouro. Spool it up. Cast a few times and adjust your methods if you have trouble. Catch fish. Retie/replace as needed.

1: If you like it, don't let me stop you It's not doing the same thing it does to mono/copoly. 2: Don't buy it if you don't like it It works very well for me and many, many others. Never said it was the absolute best. 3: I've looked at it, both from above and below the surface with my own eyes. You can see it. Either way, like I said earlier it's a non-factor to me. I'm advocating using flouro by the way, for me mono/colpoly only touches topwater stuff. Just passing along my on the water experience, don't take it personally or anything.

Keep it simple to start. Use the same stuff you had success with in the smaller boat or from shore and try to find areas that match what you are used to. Not every body of water follows the 'book'...So most times you need to figure it out on your own. If you have issues finding fish after a while, look at what the other boats are doing...But focus on the DIFFERENCES in what they are doing versus what you had been doing. Be patient and willing to learn, don't try to copy other boats...Learn from them. A lot of people get discouraged because they think having the boat will now free up all the limitations they had...In reality, it only gives you more variables to figure out! Apply what you already know, keep an open mind, and learn. You will get the hang of it eventually .

I try to keep it simple. Fluoro sinks, has great all around sensitivity, is abrasion resistant, and typically has a smaller diameter than equal mono. Why wouldn't I use it? The fact that it sinks is such a huge advantage in everything outside of topwater...Yet nobody really ever talks about it as being that important. It's probably best quality about Flourocarbon. You will have less of a bow in your line above and below the surface, meaning less distance for movment to travel (sensitivity). It also means less line to move when setting the hook. A little advice Your line is always going to break at the weakest point, the overwhelming majority of the time that will be at the knot...No matter what knot you tie. Tie a palomar knot. Wet the line, including ALL the line that will pass thru the knot (the whole loop). Cinch it down SLOWLY. You can choose another knot and follow these steps too, but the palomar is the easiest and also the strongest IMO. Check the last 5 feet of your line often (with any line). Even grass can fray line if you're in it enough. Retie every few fish or every couple hours...Even with no visable damage, the line/knots will get stressed. Line conditioners are useless on flouro, don't waste your time/money. Flouro doesn't absorb water like mono/braid does...So line conditioner will only sit on top of it until it dries out. You don't need to spend big bucks. Seagar Red Label is excellent line, I use it almost exclusivly. BassPro XPS is also excellent. It is stiffer than mono/braid. You will have to adjust your casting especially on baitcasting gear. It's not hard, just do it...It will make you an even better caster when you pick up a rod with braid/mono. It's not invisible. Not even close. Just look at in the water for yourself. This makes no difference. If you think fish aren't going to eat your bait because they can see the line, what about the hooks/weights/bills/split rings/etc???? Getting more bites with flouro is likely a combination of the action changing due to the line sinking and being a smaller diameter, OR simply because you can feel more.