Shanes7614

My biggest question for any builders or blank designers is this... How does lifting a 3lb fish out of the water have any more rod pressure then some of the almost obscene hook sets I have seen guys using, especially guys fishing straight braid? I don't discount a heavy hook set for certain flipping/pitching applications but some guys are just beyond ridiculous with the amount of force they THINK they need to set a SHARP hook.... I believe there are way too many guys with an old school monofilament hook set to compensate for line stretch still using the same hook set with zero stretch braid and even flouro which has a decent amount of line stretch less then mono.

Haha. Good call. Forgot those baits but not baits currently in my arsenal. Those I would use a high quality ball bearing snap swivel for if I used them.

Not true at all unless the spinnerbait does not run true... Meaning the blades are on top during the retrieve. This can be fixed by moving the arm of the spinnerbait so it is inline with the hook. The weight of the jig head part should keep it running true most of the time. However some times you will notice they may tend to lean towards one side with lighter baits and mostly willow leaf models as there is less resistance than with Colorado blades. IMO the baits that cause the most line twist tend to be whacky rigged baits weightless. I used them as a kid and lost a really good fish when a snap barrel swivel I was using still got forced open. If your looking for quick lure changes just check out fastechs. Similar to a corkscrew in a way but hard to exactly explain without seeing them yourself. I mainly use these with jerk baits and crankbaits only.

I meant more of where your from... Like southern Cali, Texas, etc...

Warden = wife/girlfriend? Lol

Munchies???

Look above. Only pertains to salt water fishing.

Where are you fishing most of these?

Not out to get anyone.... Just looking for an explanation as to why he would need a dedicated swim bait rod for ONE bait. I do agree with Hatrix and if it's something the OP is going to get into then the purchase would make sense. Otherwise I don't think buying a dedicated setup is needed as Tom stated a crankbait rod could be used in the OP's situation and current bait owned.

I personally use a uni to uni. That honestly I would just search on Google as I'm sure there are plenty out there that anyone else will tell you is better. Lol. It's mostly what's easiest for you to tie and sometimes depends on the size leader you may use. If you have it I would start with 6# flouro if the water is decently clear. You can go down or up according to the water clarity but is a good happy medium. Consider your hookset as well as you don't need to drive home the small hooks used. I have even used circle hooks myself which work well with this presentation. Just reel down until you feel the weight of the fish and then lift your rod to about 10oclock position and all should be well. Too many guys out there using old school mentality of feeling the need to rip each fishes head off their bodies. That was done YEARS ago because of the use of mono. Just so many guys got used to it and still continue it today with low or zero stretch lines as braid and flouro. To me it's just overkill. Only time I feel that violent of a hookset has its purpose is if someone is flipping and pitching in REALLY THICK stuff.

I'm confused. You first state that the OP can use a crankbait rod with the current bait he has. You then go on to say you advise to buy a strictly swim bait rod.... So which is it? Seems as if he would have two rods and only ONE bait.

Leaders in my opinion in any kind of clear water will give you a better advantage. Night fishing isn't as much of a problem but it still may help. I personally don't use them at night with the baits I favor although if I was drop shotting I would highly consider it. Use a medium rod as close to or longer then 7' and the ,most sensitive you have. Drop shot strikes aren't always the most noticeable bites you've had before. It's a small bait that bass don't have to put much effort into sucking into their mouths. The power worm as stated by AJay is a good bait as well as roboworms because of their high salt content. Bass seem to hold onto them longer. Nose rigged SMALL 3" fluke type baits work good as well. I myself use mostly roboworms when I have done it and have had decent success.

Use the lightest flouro you can and try nose hooking your baits if not successful with the whacky. Braid helps a lot for the sensitivity. Try starting in the 12-15 FOW range to start.

I agree with the braid. Was questioning the other poster as to why he thought mono lost less fish.

If you don't find a need to use braid for throwing buzz baits then I don't believe your using them to the best of their abilities. I throw mine near some of the heaviest cover on the lake I can find. Lay downs, lilly pads, weed edges, under docks, and so forth. Please explain why you think mono "holds more fish".

I think he was referring to the mini zip tie trick...

I myself am happy to find such deals and sales and make my own opinion. You may find they work better for you and your applications than others would anyway. Give them a try and let us know your outcome.

Well if nobody has one as it seems so far you may just need to make one of your own and post for others to see. Maybe check another source as to the quality and useage.

I thought this pertained to saltwater applications more myself...

Lemme guess... You got the DIABETIS?!?! Me too.

Hahahahahaha. BEST answer EVER!!!

I've definitely heard the original package... I was more questioning the thought of how digestible MB really thought they are compared to a senko brand. I myself would think that a bait that's almost indestructible would be worse then a bait with such a high salt content and breaks down as much as guys complain about them. As far as rubber mine NEVER get thrown in the water. I also will try to chaise down any floaters I see that may be lost during battle and scoop them up. Whenever I see any garbage on the water I always pick stuff up and try to leave the water looking better then when I arrived. Just trying to do my own part in keeping the waters I fish clean.

Thanks!!!

You think the digest ability of z man products is any better? Senko brand from what I've read have the highest salt content and worst durability and breakdown so I would think those would be the least problematic. I have very few zman products but have heard many times they cause ALOT of havoc amongst other plastics and hardbaits as well...

Why isn't your name dinger lover instead of senko lover??? Lol