BORDERBASSER

There is a guy over at tackleunderground that is carving his jointed swimbaits out of PVC, but I don't have any details. I wish I did.

Thanks guys for the comments. The two baits yall made look fantastic. It seems to me that painting will need to be done assembled to get an even look, but applying epoxy would be best done disassembled. The cool thing about using the cotter pins, is you can spread/bend the pin apart just a little, squeeze back together, and insert it in the hole. That way, it will spring back apart in the hole and stay put without any gluing as long as your not too rough on it. You can put it together to paint...take it apart to clear coat, then put it back together for final assembly. Anyway, that method makes the most sense to me so far. I was just wondering if anyone else was doing something similar. Thanks again.

I was just wondering how you guys do it. I have made a few swimbaits so far, but have not painted them yet. It seems like it would be especially difficult to to seal the baits with epoxy and keep the hinges clear...especially if you wanted a really tight and clean looking joint. I use cotter pins linked together and epoxied in and would think that I could assemble and disassemble as needed during the painting and coating process. Then after all is said and done assemble and epoxy the pins in for a permanent assembly. Anyway, that is just what I'm thinking. What have yall found to work best. Thanks.

The word around town here is that he just went into a partnership with someone and bought the Amistad Lodge, or at least the restaurant just ajacent to it. I heard from someone who works there that the have really big plans for it. It is about time!

It won't take much air to get what you need. I use an aquarium pump if that tells you anything. Maybe just a few pounds. If you use an air compressor, you will need a regulator that is capable of adjusting that low. Just make sure you use enough air that when you turn it on, the powder approximately doubles in volume and doesn't spew out the top. I would start of trying to fill the cup about a 1/3 full and go from there. That is how I figured mine out. TJ

My hat goes off to you. That is FANTASTIC workmanship. I can't believe someone could do those kinda weaves on his second rod. Your work and talent far exceeds your experience. That is the kinda work I would expect to see from someone with much more experience. TJ

Thanks again guys for the kudos. Wittler, you my friend(and many others who do what you do) are the craftsman. You make some fine looking baits. I already pour my own softplastics, but I think I may have to wait a while before I get the bug to build any cranks. I have only been doing this less than a year and have only made about 22 rods so far, so I have a ways to go before I consider myself a craftsman of fine rods. Thank you though very much. Justtrying, if this is what you mean by "what exactly did you ask for", here ya go pardner... WFG2 X 1 2" tapered foregrip WFG3 X 1 3" tapered foregrip WBBC X 1 tubing to butcap eva bushing WBTC X 1 tubing to reel seat eva bushing WFGFC X 2 eva caps for narrow end of tubing EVABC20 X 1 (there are several other butcaps that will fit as well) WHKA X 1 foam arbor for main grip (will need to be tapered to fit) Even though the WBBC and the WBTC were designed for the regular tubing, they will fit the foregrip tubing without having to taper them to fit. All the bushing have a 1/4" hole with the exception of the foam bushing which is a 3/8" (I think?). TJ

That is exactly what it is. Thanks for the nice words. TJ

I forgot to mention that the components were purchased from fishsticks4u.com if anyone wanted to know. It was a bit confusing for them at first, but they were, as always, first class at helping me get what I needed. TJ

Thanks for the kind comments guys. They are the tapered woven foregrips from Batson. I just never have been satisfied with the look of some of the split grips I have seen where regular tubing was used. They all just looked a little too wierd to me. This looks a little more natural. I was flipping through the Batson catalog one day and thought... 8-)I wonder? I did a little research and sure enough, the OD on the fat end is the same as the regular tubing so the EVA connection parts for the regular tubing were compatable. Basicly, the parts that connects the butcap, and the part that connects to the reel seat. The EVA parts on the tapered end are the ones normaly used for the foregrip. I really wasn't sure if I should put the epoxy checks or not, but I'm glad I did. TJ

One more. Sorry I couldn't figure out how to get them on one post. TJ

Another

Well guys, I alluded the other day on one of the post of doing something a little different than anything I had seen before. Although I have seen split grips made from the graphite handle material, I have not seen or heard of anyone doing it with tapered tubing. The rod is an All Star Titanium 807c to be used for plastics and jigs. I haven't yet done any threadwork, just the handles, seat and epoxy checks. Tell me what you guys think. Have you seen this attempted before?

One thing I have found and it rings true for all epoxies, is you need to get it out of the cup and spread it out on something. I too have had the same problem in the past with the 30min. epoxy. You need to remember that two part epoxy cures by heat. When you leave the mix in a small confined area like your cup, the exothermic reation is actually exagerated. If you will spread it out on to some foil or something, you will find that your working time will increase. TJ

I'm not even gonna ask how you managed that LOL!, but that is a bummer. I left the hood off my first one. ;D Didn't realize it till I had the whole thing almost wraped. If you are carefull you can get it off and maybe salvage it with a little heat. Other wise, I think you'll probably have to VERY carefully cut it off with a dremel. You need to do a little searching to find the specifics on how to remove it as I have only done it a few times. I'm sure reelmech would be able to help you a little more than me. Hopefully you have not wrapped the rod yet. TJ

Is it a spinning seat??

Yeah fletch, they have it all. Even woven graphite tapered foregrips. They have the bushings for the tube to seat connection and tube to buttcap connection. If you have never delt with fishsticks, give them a shot. They have been VERY good to me. TJ

Great looking rods guys. I wish I could afford those high end guides fletch, but the alconites I usually use are pretty hard to beat for the money. I just placed an order today from fishsticks and plan to be building a rod with the graphite handle tubing split gripped. I think it is gonna be a little different than anything I have ever seen before in person, RBO photo page or here. I won't let the cat out of the bag just yet ('cause I don't even know if it's gonna work worth a dang or not) but I'll keep you posted and hopefully post some pics in the next couple of weeks if it turns out good. I'm gonna build it on a All Star Titanium 807C 6'8" Hvy ex-fast. Again, great looking rods guys. TJ

I prefer not to use CP as well, but I have used it on a few. I even like the transparent look on open diamond and chevron wraps. TJ

Hey flech, I would be interested in hearing what you have to say about the 811. I have used it and the flexcoat and seem to prefer the flexcoat. I think my 811 is a little to thick even after thinning it. I also get bubbles with it that I have a hard time getting rid of before it starts to gel. Both seem to be adequate in sealing the threads though. I just have an ease of application issue with the 811. Thanks. TJ

Flechero, Don't tell me you are one of those fair weather fishermen. I know I may live just a little further south (Del Rio) than you, but... Just pokin ya in the ribs! LOL! I have built nearly ten rods since the middle of Nov. and so far only one for me. I do have an All Star sitting in the corner with my name on it though. Maybe I'll get to work on it after I finish the other two I have on order...again not for me Oh well. TJ

WCCT, I'm am sure that is what he meant. Usually, most builders use the fly guides when their rod calls for single foot guides. It is either those or the single foot V frame spinning guides. If you like the Titanium finish on your guides, look at the batson guides. The offer almost all of their guides in a TiCh finish on a SS substrate. You can get these with the zirconium rings and with the H rings for a lot less. As far as sizing is concerened I use a DF10, SF6 (bumper), DF7(first 180) and SF6's the rest of the way out. Remember the bumper guide's only purpose is to keep the line off the blank so use the smallest ring and lowest frame guide you can. TJ

Yes, the salt will settle in the cup as well, but it is manageable. As far as pouring into a cold mold, that is fine on a one piece mold, but on a two piece mold, if you don't pour right down the hole, you will have a hard time. TJ

Terry, Unfortunately, if you are not going to spiral wrap the rod, on a rod that light, the line will more than likely touch the blank somewhere. The only thing you can do is just try to space the guides in such a manner that the line touches the blank somewhat evenly from guide to guide. In other words, space the guides so that the line touches the blank the same between each guide(assuming it touches the blank in more than one place). As far as the winding check goes, if you ream carefully, you don't need one. What I do now instead of placing a rubber or metal check, is to do a epoxy winding check. All I do is get some five minute epoxy and mix up a small batch and mix in just a tad of black Testors model paint with the tip of a tooth pic. You will want to let the paint sit for a while ( it may take a day or so) with out disturbing it so that the pigment will settle out and the solvent float to the top and pour as much solvent off as you can prior to using. Chuck your rod up in your dryer and elevate the other end a few inches and get the rod turning. Make sure and have this ready before mixing up your epoxy! As the rod is turning, take your toothpick and start applying the epoxy to the rod where the grip and the cork meet and use the tip of the toothpick to manipulate the epoxy as needed. Keep adding it as you go...building it up as needed. I usually shoot for about a 45degree angle ramp from the rod to the cork. After I am satisfied that I don't need to add anymore epoxy, I take a coffee filter or paper towel moistened with alcohol and fold an edge in it and lower it to the edge of the ramp and blank to create a smooth edge. Then, just let it turn 'till it sets up. It can sometimes be difficult to get a perfect edge, so I usually wrap my hook keeper wrap close enough that the wrap goes all the way to the check and hides any imperfections. The thing to remember is you are dealing with five minute epoxy, so work fast. If you don't have a dryer motor, you probably ought to get one. They can be bought on e-bay pretty cheap. I Have a 4rpm for drying and a 44rpm for drying, and applying thread finish. I feel the 44rpm works the best for making the epoxy check. Hope this helps. TJ

Thanks for the reply. Are you saying that I should mix a little oil in the gas tank? I thought that was a big no-no on the HPDI, or am I misunderstanding something. TJ