240 LTS

... any one place better than another? Looking for 2- 8' Blades, White for my Triton 240 LTS bay boat. I can shop price but they are all the same so that isn't a reason. If there is an issue, I know that PP has great customer service. Maybe the answer to to buy direct from them? Agree. Disagree? Other? Also, the dual braced (brackets) kits are confusing. So many different ones. Going to mount them to the sides of my Bob's Versa Jack, 4" HD that has a 250 Verado. Thank you for any help. Jeff

Thanks again. My seats came in Sunday.

C+W, Thank you very much. I appreciate it. .

What seat is that? It seems like the one I have been searching. Looks like a much more quality one than some of the others. Thank you, Jeff .

I know this is an old thread. Motorguide said, too bad and would do nothing to stand behind the bracket at all? Any photos of the broken dogs? I am mounting the MG QR plate with the R+R Design slide plate to my Xi5 Thank you, Jeff240 LTS .

I traded 3 older reels in and got 3 PQ, BC, 6.4:1 when the sale was on. They were made in Korea not China. Thanks .

Light baits on the bottom, spinning. .

I'll give the reels a second look again tonight. I'll be at the BPS in Arundel Mills, MD. tomorrow to pick up my two rods that I got rain checks on. .

I looked closely at the photos and the write ups. Open each in different windows and that looked exactly the same to me. Please, what am I missing? I traded 3 reels for PQ then went back the next week and traded 5 rods for Sig Serries II. Two of the rods I had to get rain checks for and they came in yesterday. Picking them up tomorrow. Thanks . .

The question should be, How much "top shot" (braid, fluoro, mono) do you want? I just did some reels and I put 50-60 yrds of braid on. Remember, that's 150- 180 feet. How often will that much line be out? Even if you hook a bigin? Put the "top shot on first, the line you will be actually fishing with, THEN, fill the spool with the backer. Remove the line and reverse it. Backer will be on the bottom, (multiple ways to do it inside or outside). There is a mathmatical way to figure it out but I find the above method easier and fool proof. .

Sounds like how I started. I threw everything on my first "Bass rod".

Other threads on this subject some will put 100- 150 yards on their reels. I always thought that was way too much knowing the line will be reversed when it needs to be. (The middle of 125 +/- yrds may never see the light of day) My property is about 200 feet deep. I measured and marked points at 150' (50 yrds) and 180' (60 yrds). With my Power Pro 300 yrd spools this divides evenly. I pulled out 60 yrds and cut the line.Loaded the PP on, tied a double uni and topped off with Mono. Pulled it all off in the yard (one long strand) and reversed it. Mono on the bottom as the backer. When the time comes, I'll reverse it, then when it is worn out, I'll replace the braid. That should be several years to used both ends, depending on the amount of use it gets and conditions (structure/cover) fished. .

BPS, PQ, 5'-6" - 6'-6" (depending how big/tall he or she is) , Med. combo with 10 lb mono. It will throw all the lures typically used and catch everything out there that swims in bass waters. If a larger fish breaks them off, it will be a lesson on how much pressure 10 lb line can take. If I had only one rod choice, it would be a 6-'6" Med spinning outfit. That is what I have for people on my boat that don't fish often. .

I like simplicity and organization. Like my latest purchase, I try and keep it simple (3- PQ, BC all are 6.4:1; 5 Signature Series II, 2- spinning and 3- BC'ers) The purchase before that, long ago, 6- PQ IM7 spinning combos for $50.00 each. 3- 6'-6" M and 3- 7'-0" MH with PQ reels to match. Yes, they are not near top of the line but they have preformed well for me. When I take others out, the trend goes towards the more simplisitic and organized they are, the better angler they turn out to be. Guys that have this or that because they thought it was the latest and greatest or just picked something off the rack, had no real ryme or reason for how they set up their equipment, from the basics (matching rod/reel/line/bait choice) to the detailed (sharp hooks, good knots, drag set, etc...) The latter could be considered the basics also. Because my tools look the same at a glance, at the bottom of the rod blank, just above the reel seat, I have white electrical tape wrapped once around the blank with the rods action wtitten with a Sharpie, i.e. M, MH, on the top side for easy quick identification of that rod. Depending on the reel manufacturer, (BC'ers) Lews, Abu, Diawa, and now the PQ'ers, the retrieve ratios are the same, or very near with the Lews, in their group. Yes, I think staying with one brand is wise but that doesn't mean I won't look at others and try them out when possible. It let's you know if the equipment you have chosen is helping or hindering you.

Those photos are the casting rods although the tip guides are the same on the spinning rods. .

Update: Went back March 10 and traded the two PQ 5.2's (purchased a few days before) for 6.4's.= Now all three are 6.4's. Final decision was to just keep them the same ratio. In different manufactures I have 5.0's and 7.1's so I thought I'd keep all the PQ's the same. Did some rod trade in's also. All Signature Series II mostly because of the K guides and using braid. Haven't bought any new rods in quite some time. Casting 1- 6'-8" M 1- 6'-8" MH 1- 7'-2" MH (rain check) Spinning 1- 6'-8" M 1- 6'-8" MH (rain check) Can't wait to try them all out. .

What am I missing? Paying $80- $100 to "PAINT" a tool? I can just buy another PQ for that or put a hell of a dent in a more expensive reel. I too like to keep my equipment as nice as possible for as long as possible but holy smokes! .

JM Signature Series II with K guides. $139.00 rod for $90.00 with trade in. Last Sat I picked up, Two BC- Med and MH and One Spin Med. All 6'-8" I may be going back today to get one or two more. Thinking of a BC- 7'-2"MH and a Spin- 6'-8" MH. Not sure just yet. .

First question- Are you closing your bail with your hand or your reel handle? The correct way is with your hand. You can get in the habbit, after you cast, when you close your bail, your fingers are already in the correct location, grab the line and pull just a little drag. This will take out any loose line on the top few wraps. Once you get used to doing it, it only take a second. Retrieving and bait that doesn't always keep tension on the line will leave the wraps somewhat loose and can be an issue on the next cast. I agree the lighter the braid, the more chance to have issues but is most likely is a combination of things. .

As the discussion of rod weight is going around, it gave me an idea. I have a small digital scale I use for lures just to check the real weight after I pour them. I may take it to check the actual rod weights just to know for sure. It would be interesting to check them. Jeff 240 LTS

Going tomorrow to trade in 3, maybe 4 rods. http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/131764-carbonlite-vs-signature-ii-series-spinning-rods/#entry1472296 .

Check out these videos. .

Hey guys, Went to the BPS sale last weekend. Traded in 3 older reels and picked up 3 PQ's. One 6.4:1 and two 5.2:1. Just under $65.00 each. The Rod trade in started today, Friday, so the plan is to go early tomorrow morning and pick up 3 Signature Series rods. Just under $90.00 each. One- 6'-8", one- 7'-2" and not sure what the third one will be. There was a limited selection of BC'ers last weekend. Even thinking of maybe getting a spinning rod. Not sure right now. Again, all the Sig's had the K guides and braid will be used.

Have an update/correction on my earlier post. Went back to BPS yesterday, Sunday, and looked closer at the rack with the Sig rods. Since the Carbonlites were (mostly) all in another area and I asked where the Sig rods were on Saturday, I thought the rack the employee showed me were ALL Signature Series rods. That was not the case. I didn't look close enough on Saturday. The rack was mixed with Carbonlites also and I didn't read the name of the rods thinking they were all the same, as I asked. My mistake. All the Signature rods had K Guides and the CL were not.

Just joined the forum (like I need to be a memeber of another one ;-)) but when doing my lastest searches, this forum kept coming up so you guys must be on top of things! I was at BPS today and was comparing these two rods in the bait caster models. It will be used with a PQ, 6.4:1 spooled with braid for Light Tackle Jigging stripers on the Chesapeake Bay. If you buy the Signature Series, check the tip guide. They were all not the same throughout the different rod lengths. The ones that have the leg support go around the "tube" is a pain when the braided line wraps around it. I am considering the 6'-8" MH Sig. The Sig Series was 6'-8" . The Carbonlite was 6'-9" The Extreme was 6'-10" Funny that they didn't make them the same length. The three different models of course had the standard, 6'-6"; 7'-0" and 7'-6" lengths. The signature also had a 7'-2". Jeff 240 LTS .