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I haven't had issues throwing fc on a baitcaster. I have tried red lable in 6 lb test on a spinning reel and just couldn't deal with it. It seemed waaay too stiff. I didn't use any like conditioner, but i don't know if that would have tamed it enough. I'd look for a more limp fc and maybe drop down to 6# for those weightless baits. Make sure you're putting the line on right to begin with and don't overfill the spinning spool.

Vanish has been improved in the last few years, but it's still not a very good fluoro (and that's coming from a Berkley fan). I really like their 100% fluoro as it's less brittle and manages well. The differences between Vanish and a mono are their water absorption, their sensitivity, abrasion resistance, and how they act in the water. Fluoro doesn't absorb water so it's characteristics stay consistent throughout the day. Mono in general will absorb water and when it does it becomes a little more stretchy. Fluoro is made out of a more dense material so not only does it sink in the water column, but it also transmits vibrations better and in my opinion creates a more sensitive line. For the same reason, I feel it helps transmit bites better for semi-slack line presentations such as wacky rigging. When it comes to abrasion resistance between the two, I feel there's a trade off. In a mono, there isn't as much abrasion resistance, but to me it doesn't seem to lose as much strength if it is nicked. Fluoro is more abrasion resistant, but when it does get a nick in it, it seem to lose strength a bit quicker than a mono. As far as how they act in the water, like I mentioned mono floats in most cases, where fluoro sinks. Although the two lines have somewhat similar stretch rates, I think this is why people don't feel that fluoro stretches as much. With mono the line is almost always wanting to rise up in the water column creating somewhat of a bow in your line under water. When you set the hook you're overcoming the slack in the line and pulling it tight and then the line stretches. With fluoro I think the line keeps a more direct path to the bait so when you set the hook with that you only feel the line itself stretch. Above are my observations from using both mono and fluoro. Both are good lines and have their place in the fishing arsenal. If I were you I'd venture away from Vanish and at least step up to 100% Pro Grade. If you're worried about the cost difference, I intentionally left the same line on one of my most heavily used rods for two years just to see if it broke down over time. If it did I didn't notice any loss of performance, and still had zero issues with it. If I had to choose between vanish and XT or XL I'd choose either of those mono's before Vanish but to each his own. Figure out what you like and what works for you!

Does anything else come with it? Electronics, trolling motor, etc etc? Do you know the overall condition? Is it scratched up? Dented? Are the decks wood? If they are is it solid or does it have a few soft spots? All these answers will factor into the value.

I've never heard of that one before. I used to have a Ranger 320V that was about 7" longer but same hull weight with an 88 spl. I ran a CMC jackplate and a Raker 20 pitch it'd run in the low 40's. I had a 22P Raker as well and topped it off at just over 45 but was too slow out of the hole with 2 people for my taste.

Good choice, the 8.1:1 is well suited for what you want to use it for.

I haven't tried the newest releases of the Revo spinning reels, but I've used the previous gen Revo S and Revo Premiers and they're sweet reels, I wouldn't expect any less from the new ones.

I'm still torn on this subject. When I started out, I was using 6# fluoro, but after so many rave reviews for the braid with fluoro leader I gave it a shot last year and wasn't blown away by it. I think if you're fishing them deep it might be worth it to go braid, but you could still get the job done with fluoro. This year I'm going to try both side by side since I have multiple spools for my spinning reels.

You could probably pull it with what you've got, but that seems a bit steep for a 27 year old boat and motor. I guess it's worth whatever you're willing to pay though.

Had this happen to me during a tournament. The boat I bought had the trim button replaced (by a marina) The morons didn't use a waterproof switch. I didn't think anything of it and had fished in heavy rain with it a few times without issue. During this one tournament though it was on a chain of lakes that the lakes were pretty much like big bowls and was super windy. Fishing all day you'd take some waves rolling over the bow and soak everything. With about an hour left in the first day I could hear my trim running. I couldn't get it to stop, so I opened up the cover and pulled the relay. When we got back to the landing I put it back in and it had stopped. Same thing happened on the second day. I had put 2 and 2 together by then and pulled the leads on the front switch and it worked. Later replaced the switch with a waterproof one and haven't had a problem since.

There's pro's running 2 12" units up front, yes they run bigger boats but the only part of the boat that's bigger is what's behind them. If I were you I wouldn't mount my locator on the actual deck, I'd put it on a ram mount at either of these two locations or close to it.

I'm sure it's a nice boat as I've heard nothing but good things about Xpress. They're supposed to ride great and are definitely fast. Like fishes said though, don't expect much in savings in towing or running as they are within a few hundred pounds of the glass boats that size.

The DS is a pretty versatile rig that definitely puts fish in the boat. To gain confidence in it try target casting with it. Hit some docks, stumps, or fallen trees with it. Cast to them, let it drop, shake it a little without moving the weight. Give it a few seconds, drag it a few feet and do it all over again. Do that 2 or 3 times and wind it back in and try to find another high percentage spot. It will allow you to fish it faster catch a few to gain some confidence in it before you start branching out.

Just buy a swim ladder for it. They come in all sorts of styles now even some that attach to your mounting bolts for your outboard that fold down if you need them.

Spinning reels will be stamped with the 3 most common line sizes the maker assumes will be used on the reel. If you want to go with 12 that's fine, just know that with bigger diameter line the less of it the reel will hold. You can estimate how much line it will be by taking the 3 sizes and seeing how much it changes from the first to second and second to third. You only need an approximation as almost all reel brands have different diameters for the same size line. With all that being said, I would recommend against using 12lb test on a spinning reel unless it's braid in which case all those previous numbers can be thrown out anyway.

As a guy that fishes out of a 17' You can definitely manage with one. You have to be sure to look around and get one with a good layout, since space is a premium. The ride isn't going to be as smooth as a 20' boat, but again if you look around you can find boats that handle well for their size. When it gets windy you won't be able to run wide open at least not comfortably, but the bigger boats aren't able to do that either. The biggest thing is learning how to drive what you have. I used to have a 16' and i got by with that too. It was just a little more cramped with two people, plus it was an older layout which didn't help. I still felt safe in that in anything I put it through (which was quite a bit). In your situation, bigger would be better, but I 17 on up should treat you just fine. Every foot you go up in length the ride will get better, but not all hulls are created equal.

Figuring out the value of older boats that are redone is always tricky. As long as everything is done right it should have significantly better value that something that's the same age. Given your price range though, it doesn't take much anymore to be worth that much so depending on the boat, it could be a good purchase.

The Rage series that was recently discontinued had Pac Bay minima micro's, the Avid X's have Kigan Z micros, and the LTB's & Xtremes a have Fuji's modified micro's, They might not be as small as some other micros out there, but they are a lot smaller than the traditional guides.

Bill Dance has one that comes with a basic reel to store the line. I still prefer the telescopic fiberglass retrievers. They fit into the rod storage when not being used, or when you need it on a regular basis I can keep it right next to my rods on deck. I like the telescopic version better because it allows me more of a connection to feel what I'm hung up on and I think I can get more baits freed with it. Also, I wouldn't go the cardboard route for storing your cord. The first time you use it you'll bring the cord up wet. Next time you use it, it's going to turn to mush. I think 00 mod or fishes have better solutions to cord storage.

So come to find out, none of our theories were correct. I contacted St. Croix about this just out of curiosity and basically they said they put their micro guides closer together to provide more opportunity to hold the line off the rod blank given the reduced height of the guide feet. They also said in they future they may go away from that and reduce the number of guides.

Those will be two nice upgrades. My advice is get the biggest tm you can afford and can make work on you boat. (don't buy a 36v if you only have room for 2 batteries). I've never heard anyone wish their trolling motor wasn't as strong. Also, try to get one with a variable dial instead of preset speeds. Not only will it allow you to dial in your speed better, but it'll help to extend your batteries too.

Also haven't used one personally, but I've been tempted to buy one. Only issue I could see is if some junk got in between the actual plug and the hole it plugs. That issue should be solved by opening it when it's in the water and the quick rush of water should clear it before closing it again.

I believe you can cut most down, but it can be tricky. It's probably best just to get the correct size and not have to mess with it.

If Humminbird still has the portable units, they have a suction cup mount for the transducer as well as a battery built into the base the unit sits in. Other options include buying an aftermarket transducer clamp. It mounts to the transom with a c clamp and the transducer mounts to it so you can remove it when you want. A final option would be to mount the transducer higher up on the transom. Normally you want them level with the bottom of the hull to provide smooth water flow over them when moving. since you won't be moving much and not fast when you do, it might work for you.

I have my favorites for combinations of water clarity and light, but if you're just starting out, use the color YOU have the most confidence in. Even if it's the wrong color for conditions, you'll fish it harder.

Congrats man! Hope you continue to have success in your fishing endeavors!