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Beat me to it! The zerust dividers work well at preventing rust, You can order the silica packets on ebay for like $3 for 100 or something like that so combined the two and make sure your baits aren't wet when you put them away. If you do that, you shouldn't be losing any more baits to rust.

I agree, get some rod gloves and take the organizers out. You'll have much more capacity.

my mistake, I read it wrong.

^this I'm not 100% sure but I'd be guessing they'd be very similar to the last gen Mojo's. If you're wondering why they have so many rods around that price point, take a closer look at the rod forums here. Even with the pinned rod posts, there's at least a handful of posts every day about people wanting a rod in that range. Sure people ask about more expensive rods as well, but the majority of people who are looking to spend $200+ on a rod already have an idea what they are going to buy.

Although it sounds like your braid is just digging in, which is pretty common on the smaller diameters like you're using, you might want to check your rod guides. I've got a spool of the same line that I've got a whole lot more than a handful of uses on, and it's only starting to slightly fade in color. The coating is still in good shape. Your post makes it sound like it's taking a beating and it makes me wonder if it's not getting frayed up on a bad guide.

The St. Croix Mojo Bass 6'8" MH/F is a great all around rod. It might be a little light for super heavy froggin' but you can make due until you're ready to invest in a heavy power rod. The newer rod has a little slower action than the last generation. It makes for a great all around rod.

Gas was about twice the price it was last year. The 4 stroke is still WAY more fuel efficient though.

You might have to do some plastic trimming, but I bet you could adapt these to make it work for you. http://thmarine.com/g-force-equalizertm-trolling-motor-lift-assist.html#!prettyPhoto Also, if you don't have it already, look into the G-force handle. The rope is made of a coated wire so it won't break, but more importantly in your situation the cable is longer than stock. It prevents you from having to bend over to lift and deploy the motor placing more strain on your arm instead of your back.

I'd say the largemouth is in the 3-3.5 range the smallie 2.5-3 if you knew a length you could get a little closer guesstimate. Either way they're both nice fish! I see you like Yum Dingers, if you're looking to get the same rof as a senko check out the Eco Pro Wacky weights. 1/32 works well on a 4" Dinger and I'd move up to 1/16 or 1/8 for the 5". I really like them because you can change weight based on condition and they also make your worms last longer.

That will be fine for backing. In clear water you might want to add a leader depending on what you're doing. You might also want to add a mono leader if you're throwing walking topwaters that have treble hooks as braid has a tendency to tangle in the front hooks.

If you're not looking to change anything, I'd say go for a cranking rod. Otherwise if you're looking to branch out a bit in you presentations and try something different I'd look for a rod most well suited for that technique.

Since you like the Mojo Bass rod you have now, why not get a MH version? The worm-n-jig rod is a great all around rod, and will be able to handle the baits you want it to.

Was he targeting isolated fish? If he was that's probably why it was more effective. If he was on his front locator "video gaming" them just dropping it down right on a fish while you're in the back fan casting his bait is in front of a fish when he drops it down and you're hoping to put it in front of one. Maybe this wasn't the case at all, but I could see where it could be.

I do on my deeper cranking rod. Hasn't effected action or catch rate. I used to use them for everything back in the day.

^beat me to it

Things have been crazy at work the last week and a half or so and it hasn't left me with much free time to contribute a whole lot on here. Figured I'd throw up some of the catches the last few weeks. I haven't been catching tons of numbers lately, but some very solid fish have been coming over the side of the boat

Nice catch man! Congrats on the PB, that makes for a heck of a birthday present!

I don't know for sure, but if I had to guess I'd say the overflow for the livewell? I know there's many to rig a livewell so I'm just speculating, but that'd be my guess.

That all depends on the setup. Most bass boats change angle when you trim and that means the angle the water enters the hole changes. On my dad's boat the speedo reads into the upper 60's and then you trim a little further and feel the boat gaining speed but the speedo drops into the 30's. GPS is a far more reliable way to get an accurate speed on a boat. If you don't have one and want to find out the difference between gps and your speedo, just download a speedo app on your phone and compare.

I use masking tape and drill backwards until I'm through the gel coat. I just use a standard drill bit, and have had to use a hole saw as well. I haven't had any issues with cracking or chipping. With a tm you shouldn't have to worry about champher the hole because the only part of the bolt going through it is the straight shank so there's nothing exerting a spreading force on it.

Are you sure they're on the correct posts? I believe the chargers have reverse polarity protection so if they're on backwards it won't turn on. Black to - red to +.

Fishermen for whatever reason seem to have this thought process that if you're not doing something the way they do that it's wrong. It's all about finding what works for you. There's nothing wrong with using snap swivels, I just advise you not to use the cheap ones as they have a tendency to fail on a pretty regular basis.

If I were you, I'd throw some singles at it and see what happens. haha Joking aside, why do you want to get rid of it? It sounds like with the contours of the pond it won't grow any deeper than the drop and will provide great habitat for baitfish and gamefish alike.

The length rod you pick is more of a personal decision. I will say though, especially when it comes to flippin', you'll lose some distance by going shorter. A lot of people prefer the longer rods for those techniques because of the cover they are fishing. The longer rod helps them pull them up and out of the cover a little more than dragging them through it, plus they allow you to move the fish further with the rod. You can definitely go shorter though. I've got two rods that I use for flippin' and pitchin' heavier cover. The first is a 7'1" MH/F and I'll use that around docks, wood, or weed edges. For the punching, and the other really nasty stuff, I've got a 7'6" H/F and it excels with that. I'd think about the type of cover you're going to be fishing and make your selection based on that. It sounds like you are on track with the setup you were thinking about.

Most likely you didn't tighten the prop nut enough. I had one fall off when I was a kid. Pulled up to a spot I was going to fish and the wind was blowing me into it. Kicked the tm on in reverse and nothing.... pulled it up and the prop was gone. The plastic wrench in that kit will help you get it tight enough, otherwise you can use a pair of pliers to tighten it. Put the handle on opposite sides of the prop nut and use that to snug it up.