WIGuide

^this. I've got a Mustang, it was their previous top of the line model not long before they came out with this one. Get one with their H.I.T Technology. It gets rid of accidental discharges due to rain, humidity, or splashes. It will only go off after being submerged in more than 4" of water. The price is steep, but they are worth it.

Although I know it's their right to do with their catch what they please, it still makes me cringe hearing about someone keeping a big one. Up here it takes a long time to grow a bass into the 4-5 lb range.

I've got about half a box full now of a mix of shadow rap and shadow rap deep's. I haven't had any of them crack or break and I've caught a bunch of fish on them. If you're having problems with them give Rapala a call and see what they say. They might replace them for you. Also, I don't throw jerkbaits very much in the summer unless it's a smallie dominant lake, otherwise it's spring and fall/winter for me. They've caught me and my dad a lot of fish, and a lot of quality fish as well. Just a sample of what they can do...

I'm not sure where up north you are, but in WI we have quite a bit of grass and pads. They aren't always the thickest, but I still opt for a heavy power rod for frogs. Usually if you do find a section of thick stuff you can find a fish in it and that heavy power really shines when you do, plus it can be used to punch if need be. Personally my frog rod is a St. Croix Mojo the older version of the frog and slop rod. I'm sure the new one works just as well if not better. It's model number is MJC74HF. If you're sure you can get away with lighter I have also thrown them on a Legend Tournament 7'1" MH/F. That one is also available in the Mojo line model number MJC71MHF. I really like the Legend Tournament version though, model number TBC71MHF.

St. Croix has quite a few of them, pick your price point and have at it!

Some people really like them. My dad likes the feel of them and I don't mind as long as they stay put on the grips you have. I've got 2 Johnny Morris reels that basically have the same pattern built into the oem grips and I like those.

If you can access where this picture is taken try a long flat head screwdriver. Run it from the exposed tubes into the foam. It should help free them up enough that you should be able to get them out of there.

You can try running your tm in reverse, or carefully shorten your prop blades. Either of those will help slow you down.

Looks like it sat out quite a bit as the fiberglass is oxidized. That's why it has that chalky white look to it. It could use a good cleaning and some fiberglass restoration work, but if it's a solid boat aside from that, it wouldn't be the worst purchase.

No idea if that's legit, but either way that's great!

I finally replaced a couple rods that I accidentally snapped under a tie down cleat. So far they're performing well!

Price depends a lot on condition, but it also doesn't take much to be worth $3,000 anymore. The 300 series Rangers are good hulls. The only down side is the console is slightly low, but aside from that I had no other complaints with mine, and my dad had no complaints with his either.

Looks good, the mats shouldn't scratch anything.

Car wax is fine to use on a boat. It's not going to harm you gel coat. Your best bet is to find a quality one that has uv inhibitors in it.

I'd go Booyah, they make some great frogs and they don't cost a lot.

With the weights being close you aren't going to notice a difference in fuel consumption while pulling. You won't notice much while on the water either. The reason most people say aluminum is better on gas than fiberglass is because aluminum is usually rated for a smaller motor. A good comparison for this would be to compare a Tracker PT 175 to a Ranger 518. Overall length wise there's only about 6 inches difference. The Tracker is lighter and is better on gas because even though they're rated for a 75, a ton of them come from the factory with a 50 which is satisfactory for that boat. The 518 isn't a great deal longer, but it's considerably wider as well as having many more creature comforts which do add weight. They're also rated for a 200 and most come with that. Are you going to burn more gas pulling it around as well as running on the water? Absolutely, but when you compare similar sized boats with similar sized motors, there's not going to be a lot of difference in cost to operate either.

You should feel more accomplished for caching multiple fish that size! Heck anyone can get a hook in a 5 pound basses mouth. Heck some can fit a whole fist in there, but to catch something that small takes extra skill!!

It depends on who you ask, I don't think I spend enough but my bank statements say otherwise haha. I try to restock when what I use is on sale. I think I tend to do alright during the summer months, but over the winter when I can't fish I'm always thinking about fishing and browsing tackle websites and whatnot so I end up pulling the trigger more often.

That's an unfortunate way for a tournament to end! Most tournament officials will have their board out before the tournament starts so you can compare what you have to the official one to prevent things like this from happening.

Haha thanks, just pick a color you have confidence in. Personally, I've had a lot of luck in various different water colors on black and chartreuse turbo tails. If you give them another try, just remember their slogan couldn't be more true...."you can't fish them wrong as long as you fish them slow."

I would have to say a good old roadrunner. If you can't get bit on that, you might as well go home.

Just get the standard for the 7'3". You don't want them right down to the front of the reel especially if you leave your baits tied on. Go with the micro guide XL for the long rod. Their website shows what each is recommended for.

It should be cheaper to just buy the tires themselves. Ask someone about it at farm and fleet and I'm sure they can give you prices to compare.

I just take the tires in. There's some places that will probably charge you close to 1/2 hour labor to take the tires off and put them on. At the going rate of 75-110 $/hour for labor you'll save yourself $40-55 dollars just by taking them off yourself.

I usually just wear my running shoes or athletic slides.