WIGuide

Everything you listed is a want not a need. I'll admit your list of wants may grow the longer you own a boat, but there's a difference between the two. Accessories can and usually are expensive, but the boat itself is usually not the culprit of it turning into a money pit. That's usually the fault of the owner deciding his wants are needs, or by the owners who turn a simple task like replacing a bilge pump into a $150-200 job by taking it to a marine dealer because they can't handle the complexity of the two wires and a hose clamp. I'm sure mileage will vary, but owning a boat does not have to be an incredible financial endeavor.

Something else you might want to check out is the orientation of your transducer. Since the structure scan transducer is rather large, Lowrance put in an option to run a flipped image on the screen for structure scan in the event it works better to install your transducer backwards. It's worth checking to make sure that is set up correctly since if it's not you'll be dropping waypoints on something that looks like it's on the right side of the boat when it's actually on the left. Easiest way to check is to idle past something that sticks out of the water so you know it's there (bridge piling, docks that have posts, even a shoreline) Verify that it is displaying on the correct side of the boat as you idle past it. If not correct it and then try again.

I use 7.1:1 for all my cranking currently. I find it easier to slow down than speed up. I don't fish all that much in the 15+ range due to a lot of shallower lakes around my neck of the woods, but the times I have, I haven't had an issue with the faster gear ratio reels. If you find it hard to reel slower for any retrieve, then a slower reel will be necessary for you though.

It's a little excess glue that squeezed out of the tip. I don't think it warrants a return. The glue used to put the top eye on is basically hot glue, so try poking it out. If it doesn't pop out easily, take a lighter and apply gentle heat and you'll be able to get it out of there. Just be sure to let everything is still lined up when you're done and let it cool.

Since the swim jigs you're throwing are so light, I'd stick with the M/F. If you decide to move up into the 3/8, 1/2, or 3/4 oz swim jigs, then you would probably want to step up to a MH/F instead of a medium.

No doubt, I hear where you're coming from which is why I left my $0.02 on what I use. It's always interesting to hear what everyone is using and that's what brings us all hear. I've been on here for a while now though and see endless questions primarily from newcomers who get locked in on the idea that there is only one best option. Just trying to leave friendly reminders that it doesn't have to be that way.

I would think the crazy long pauses is the culprit. I haven't had that experience, but then again I don't usually pause for very long. Maybe 5-10 seconds would be about my absolute longest, average would be about 3-7.

Well already we've had proponents to all 3 types of line. The best advice is to experiment and find what works for you. Personally I fish jerkbaits on 12 lb fluoro. I don't use mono for them for a few reasons: I don't want a suspending bait to rise in the water at all. I'd much rather have it slowly sinking as I feel it resembles something dying much better. I also better feel on a slack line. Regardless, it's all about finding a system that works for you. Some like to throw a jerkbait with a moderate action rod, others throw them on a fast, while some prefer an extra fast. Try it out figure out what you like, what feels best to you, and what puts them in the boat.

Although I haven't fished a Dobyns, I will chime in on the LTB reel seat. If you palm your reels, I doubt you'll have a problem with them. That was the way they were designed to be held and if you hold your reel a different way, it might not be the reel seat for you. As far as the spinning reel seats go, again if you put your fingers where the grooves are it's very comfortable. My dad was having issues with his being uncomfortable until I noticed how he was holding it. Once he moved his hand he thought it was great. I can definitely see where some wouldn't like either, but I think a lot of the comfort of them depends on how you hold the rod.

It might be possible to move the pumps elsewhere. As far as I know it's just hydraulic lines that connect the pumps to the power poles so if you could get some extended lines made you should be able to put them anywhere in the boat. Obviously you're going to have to run more fluid to keep the lines full which means bigger mess if they ever fail, but I don't see why that wouldn't be an option.

As with any tm, I recommending figuring how many batteries you can fit and run the max thrust you can buy for said voltage. If you can only fit 1 in there, that'd put you in the 55 lb thrust area. If you can fit two and can afford the charger and motor upgrades go for something in the 80's. Either way unless your rig is brand new, I'd be going for a used motor. Take you time and wait for the right one. There's a ton of people switching motor these days to go to electric steer so if you keep your eyes open on CL you can find a decent motor to buy a lot cheaper than new. I used to run an 82 lb thrust on a little 15'10" bass boat and I never second guessed my decision to do so. There were plenty of times I fished in wind that everyone else was coming in from because they couldn't control the boat. I'd just turn up the speed a bit and keep doing my thing. My time on the water is too valuable to lose just because the wind picked up a few miles per hour.

If everything checks out and is absolutely perfect It could be worth it. Keep in mind the boat is still 23 going on 24 years old. Layouts and styles have changed a lot since then, and even if spotless it may not be worth top dollar. I would start by trying to find comparable boats around the same year and see what they are going for. If this one really is show room condition, it's going to be worth more, but how much more is always the question. Personally I'd say up to a few thousand more. Some may agree, some may disagree. If it's perfect, has low hours, and has a layout that will work for you, it doesn't seem completely out of the ball park.

Here's what you're looking for http://www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer-Parts/CE-Smith/CE10403G.html @riverbasser's option would be cheaper. Or you could just buy this transom saver and that bracket comes with it https://www.walmart.com/ip/Attwood-Over-Roller-Transom-Saver/16203692?action=product_interest&action_type=title&beacon_version=1.0.2&bucket_id=irsbucketdefault&client_guid=b7de48b4-bdf8-40ff-85c6-a07459a76dd6&config_id=2&customer_id_enc&findingMethod=p13n&guid=b7de48b4-bdf8-40ff-85c6-a07459a76dd6&item_id=16203692&parent_anchor_item_id=32737118&parent_item_id=32737118&placement_id=irs-2-m2&reporter=recommendations&source=new_site&strategy=PWVAV&visitor_id=EDC1-WtE9YdhzFfZAiXwiI

Oh just splurge for an SJX. I remember seeing some videos of them a few years ago. I can't imagine going any shallower than what these guys do.

You've now waited 19 hours for an answer instead of just calling or using their online customer service and getting an answer in less than 5 minutes.....or you could have gone to the TW homepage and read their shipping details to find your answer.

You might be able to find one on ebay, or the other places mentioned. If I were you, I'd go @slonezp's route and have a new one made out of aluminum. You can hit up a custom graphic place with the old one and have them make you new graphics so you don't lose the labels for which switch controls what. From the looks of it you could make the plate yourself so it'd be pretty cheap. Head down to your local diy store and buy a small sheet of aluminum and some aluminum polish. For under 20$ + Graphics you'll be back in business and have a more durable setup.

St. Croix usually has a traditional rod and a modern rod built on the same blank. Fishermen are a weird group and they develop these ideas on what a rod has to have to be a good rod for them and most of the time won't even look at anything else as they seem to think it's inferior. I'm sure I display those tendencies as well at least at times too. but St. Croix has tried to please both sides of the spectrum. Their modern builds they try to squeeze in as much of the new technology into the rod as they can and still meet their profit margin. What you end up with, in my opinion is two rods built on the same blank, but having different levels of performance as these more modern upgrades have helped make a better rod. For that reason, I buy the most modern version they make. Avids are great rods and many people love them and will keep buying them, but in my opinion the Avid X is the way to go if you're comparing the two.

I suppose you could probably find a few places to put them in the Lund!

I've scored a lot of bargains over the years. Walmarts for a few years had some deep discounts at the end of the season. I scored a few packs of the tungsten weights @Darren. was talking about. I also scored on some Mustad trebles. I also got some of the higher end Plano trays for like $3 instead of $12. Gander usually is a turn and burn type store. I've got my fair share of Rapala hard baits for $4-5. Spro Crankbaits for $6. I bought bunches of Xcalibur squarebills for $3.50-$4 there when they were $7-8 retail. They like to hide their clearance stuff on the back end of isles in between the isle and the wall.

Definitely not a caught fish. You never possessed it, or even touched it for that matter. No need to blame your partner for everything you did wrong. You're the one not in the boat, you were the one who handed your rod to your partner, you were the one who tried to take the fish to early, and you were the one who tried to dead lift the fish. Face the facts, you screwed up and lost what WOULD have been your PB because of it. On the bright side, you're potentially only one cast away from hooking into the same fish or another one that big, possibly bigger. You learned what not to do in your previous fiasco, and you can learn from that experience to try and not make the same mistakes over again. Better luck next time and good luck!

I've got one of their first generation crankbaits. It's a nice bait regardless of if the internals work or not. I don't know that they're worth what they're asking, but I've had mine for two years I believe and it still works. If you want to test them out of the water, lick your thumb and pointer or middle finger and touch the hook hangers. You'll be able to hear it. It's not overly loud, but when you think about it, fish swimming under water and feeding aren't that loud either.

My opinion, I don't care how good they are, I'm not going to drop that kind of money on them. My $2 Rapala Braid Scissors cut braid just fine. Sure they bent some when they got stepped on, but they still made it through the year. At that rate, I can buy a new pair for 55 years in a row and still be even. I'll stick to the cheaper hand tools in my boat.

Size is a personal preference, but I think anything over a 30, 300, 3000 size reel is overkill for bass fishing. What you have should work just fine.

I've got an older gold one as well and it's a great little reel. I was tempted by the sale too. If they're anything like the older ones they're a steal at $89

Although I haven't used that rod, I would think it'd be just fine for frogging or pitching. I use a St. Croix Mojo 7'1" H/F for froggin, and it doubles as my secondary flip/pitch/punch rod.