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WIGuide

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Everything posted by WIGuide

  1. I definitely like the sleeper look as well. I wish I had money as I'd have a few things hopped up. I'd really like to get a Ranger Z 518C which is rated for a 200 and put a Yamaha SHO on it. With nothing more than an ECU reflash they can be bumped to 300 HP and if you change the rev limiter they can be up into that 350 hp range. I just saw a video of a build of one on youtube the other day but I couldn't find it again.
  2. I use spike-it dye and pens. That's more for a color change than scent. For that I use Kick'n Bass, it's a great product that stays on for a considerable amount of time.
  3. Plus this is something you'd rarely get pulled over for. Thanks to states like Tennessee and Wisconsin and others that don't require titling of boat trailers, unless the popo happens to see your vehicle licence plate, AND your boat numbers, AND you're in that state it's pretty much impossible to tell if the trailer needs a licence plate.
  4. Nice review. I've been using the Pad Crasher's for a few years now as well and have had the same results you have. The price has slowly crept up, but they are still towards the bottom of the market cost wise and I will continue to use them.
  5. I prefer FC for my squarebills. I use 12 lb Berkley 100% and it has worked very well for me. Difference I've noticed is that fluoro is more abrasion resistant than mono, but once compromised it looses strength faster than similarly compromised mono. I like having the initial abraion resistance especially with squarebills since they're usually fished around heavier cover. I'm just sure to check my line and retie accordingly. I tie a polomar knot and don't have issues with breakoffs or knot slippage, I've also never had an issue from backlashing either. I feel it offers enough advantages that I keep doing it
  6. I've got both of those rods, just from the LTB line. If you asked me to pick one I'd agree with @Bluebasser86 that the M/XF is the most versatile out of those two. For your first 3 techniques listed, I'd pick the ML, but you can still do that with the M and be better suited to handle the rest of the techniques you have listed.
  7. I mean at the ends of the arms. WI has the 3 hook rule as well and I've run dummies in the past. It's a bait I've used a little with marginal success, but looking at trying to get better with it. I was just wondering if there's a situation where you'd opt for blades on the end over dummy baits, or vise versa.
  8. Personally I bed fish. It seems like every year in some tournament there's some on beds and when they are at some point during the day I'll run up and try to catch some. If I'm just out for fun, I'll still try to catch them sometimes, but there's certain lakes that just get pounded when the bass are up on beds and those lakes I'll refrain from doing so. There's no reason for me to add more pressure to their process than they already suffer from other anglers beating the water to a froth and nature on top of that.
  9. I normally fish as a boater in tournaments, but I've fished a few as a co as well as just fishing with friends who offer to take their boats and I've changed my system over the years as well. I originally always wanted to brig everything, but as my tackle collection grew, that started to become harder and harder to do. I finally adapted my system for my boat and made it portable. Normally I store all my hard baits in 3700 series trays, with the exception of a few styles of baits that I don't have nearly as many of, those are in 3600 trays. Plastics are kept in 3600's for my most used baits and then in original packaging and in ziplock bags for those used less often. What I've done is purchased a few extra 3700 size trays and 2 trays that are half the size of a 3700 with no dividers. These trays allow me to condense my hardbait selections into a tray or two and I can just pick a few of my favorite baits from each category. The half sized open containers I fill with bags of soft plastics I want to use. My moderate size tackle bag holds 5 regular sized trays. I keep all my hooks and terminal tackle in 3701's which are half the depth of a 3700 so that's 1/5, hard baits are in 1 or 2 3700 trays so that's space 2 & 3/5, the two half sized trays with plastics go in spot 4/5, and spot 5/5 will usually be filled by a 3600 tray with whatever of my favorite plastics I feel will play best that day. My spinnerbait/swim jig binder lays on top and gets zipped into the main compartment. The outer pockets of my bag get filled with a few more bags of soft plastic if needed. I know this bag is not small, but it's not huge either. I feel it's big enough for me to keep my bases covered yet not bring tons of stuff. One last thing I've found that helps me stay organized is the Tackle Warehouse rod bag. It's got a few extra pockets to store stuff like sunglasses pliers and even an extra packs of plastics. On the back it's got a pouch for me to keep all my rod gloves and reel gloves in and it sits nicely on most rod ramps. It makes it easier to transport the rods and since it can stay on the rod ramp, it stays out of the way throughout the day. I would definitely recommend it for someone who fishes as a co, or out of others boats often.
  10. Is there a situation you'd run dummy baits instead of blades?
  11. Not a problem, and I would suggest a lot of hands on experience if you're going to go through with it. If you're going to have a full line it's best to have one that you really like, because if there's something that bugs you about 1 rod is most likely going to bug you about all of them.
  12. Some might prefer having all their rods come from one line for a consistent feel no matter what rod they pick up. Also, if they like the line and are familiar with it, it makes order more rods from that line easier because you know what to expect. As far as split/full grip goes, that's a personal preference. Personally I like the split grip look and feel. I palm my reels and in doing so, the center section of cork never got touched on a full grip. If there's no reason to have it there, then why have it? For those that hold the rod behind the reel, some split grips are uncomfortable because they're too small to keep the entire hand on the grip. As far as what particular rod to look at in you price range, I'd strongly suggest taking a look at the St. Croix Mojo Bass line. Since they've been redesigned and upgraded in blank material, they've managed to pack a lot of value into them. I currently only own one of the newest generation, but I'm looking at adding more to the lineup this year. There are a lot of good rods out there in that price range though, I'm sure you'll find one that you like!
  13. That definitely could have been a lot worse. I had one bounce off my spare tire once. Nothing quite like that though! I say pick the hair out and clear coat the lower unit just to let others at the ramp know that you mean business haha.
  14. I had a boat with a similar hull and boat numbers and registration stickers stuck without a problem. Just clean well before application.
  15. You'll be fine hooking it up to your starting battery. If you put it on your tm battery, you'll most likely have issues with interference.
  16. Mark me down as another vote for the Pad Crasher Jr.
  17. Everyone has to find a system that works for them and their boat/tow vehicle combo. When you develop that system, try to keep it as efficient as possible to limit time on the actual ramp. It burns me up when people sit on the ramp and do all their crap while others wait, especially on the lakes around me as many ramps are single lane. My procedure varies depending on the landing I'm at. There are a few lakes I fish that the landing is so gradual that all 4 of my Jeeps tires need to be in the water to have the trailer deep enough to get the boat on/off for these not getting in the water is not an option unless fishing with a partner since they don't have docks either. Some are so steep that I can get walk down past the bow of my boat to board with the trailer properly in the water to launch/load. Things that need to be included in your system is at least some sort of mental checklist of things to do. Put your electronics on, remove rear tie downs, remove safety strap (not winch strap) from bow, remove motor support and or steering locks, check drain plug, make sure power is on, get docking lines out, pump primer bulb, etc, etc. I suggest you go in the same order every time to develop a routine. Do all this in the staging area or parking lot. When it comes to backing your boat in, every boat is a little different. There's a sweet spot where you can launch and load your boat seamlessly. That sweet spot is going to change slightly depending on the angle of the landing, but once you get used to it you'll figure it out. I don't know what kind of boat you have, but if it has a drive on trailer, don't be afraid to drive it on. If it doesn't have a drive on style trailer, you can convert yours into one using side guides and possibly adding an extra set of bunks or rollers. If you have two people, put one in the boat and one in the vehicle, there's no reason to have someone standing there with a rope to pull the boat wherever. If your partner isn't comfortable driving the boat to the dock or backing up the vehicle, back the vehicle up yourself and get it lined up straight and as deep into the water as you can that you can still enter the boat. Your partner should be able to back you in the rest of the way after you enter the boat and then clear the landing at least to a place out of the way. If something takes too long in your system, try to think of a better way that you can shorten it up. The more you do it the more proficient you'll become. If there's a dock close, my system runs under 2 minutes of on ramp time. If I have a partner the actual launching time is about 45 seconds, loading is a little over a minute.
  18. It will work...how well is a matter of opinion. If you plan on staying out when the wind kicks up, you might not be that happy with it. If you don't mind heading in, then it'll be fine. Personally I subscribe to the theory of buying the highest powered tm you can afford and fit in the boat (if you only have room for 1 battery, you won't be looking at a 36V system). As long as you get a variable speed motor instead of one with preset speeds you can run them down as slow as you like, but you've got that extra power when you need it. I used to have a 16 footer, and when I bought it I had a 45 lb thrust tm. It was ok, but fishing tournaments you don't get to choose when you go out. It didn't work well for that, so I upgraded to an 82 lb thrust. Some might say it's overkill, but I assure you I never once wished I would have opted for a less powered option.
  19. Welcome to the forums!
  20. It seems like you get what you pay for with covers. If you have amish in your area that have any sort of upholstery business I'd look into what they can do. At least around here they have a reputation of doing great work for not a lot of money. Otherwise I'd give Stratos a call as they can probably provide a custom cover for your boat.
  21. I think that'll definitely do the job of holding that beast in place!
  22. Just from looking at the pics and seeing how the deck or hatches are warped I'd say hard pass on that. If it is in fact a 1993 it was built on an outdated platform. Looks more like late 70's early 80's model boat. I don't know if the nissan motors were good or bad back then, but they weren't very popular, and I think finding parts for them could be an absolute nightmare if something should go wrong. If it were me, I'd keep looking.
  23. I used these for the few years I kept a journal. http://www.bassresource.com/fish/fishing_log.html
  24. The 6'10" ML/XF rod is a great dropshot rod. Personally, I put more money into my finesses rods and would advise you to do the same. I haven't got to try the Bass X line yet, but I think spending the extra money on an Avid or Avid X will be well worth the investment.
  25. I'm glad you found one you like! The 7'1" MH/F is a great rod as well I've got one of those in the LTB line. You're right, the bait monkey hits hard when you get around those high end sticks! I only live about an hour and a half from the factory, and going in their store is VERY dangerous for the pocketbook haha. Enjoy your rod and may it haul in many fish for you!
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