WIGuide

Wouldn't you and your dog already be in danger no matter the situation if you were to capsize or crash? On a side note, most fiberglass boats are filled with foam so they can't completely sink. They might be swamped and sit very close to the waters surface, but they shouldn't sink. Also, while fishing this would be a rather slow process. It's not like one second you will be fishing and the next second your boat is completely filled with water even if you left the plug out. When your driving no passenger should be on the deck. You could pull him down into the cockpit area and I doubt he'd move around much. If he did you could always put your foot on the leash.

Hey guys here's a short video review of Kick'n Bass Fish Attractant. One of my first videos. Hopefully I'll be getting better and better the more I do.

Mine is the Pad Crasher. It looks and works just as well as the Spro's (even walks better) and is cheaper. Definitely my fav.

This was originally a microwave cart that I reclaimed and put drawers in it and built rod holders on the side. I also put in a shadow box to display a few of my grandpas lures. Very handy I keep all my line and reels in the drawers so they're nice and out of the way. If you want to store the rods with the reels on, you'd need to make the bottom wings just a hair wider so the reels fit better in between the rods and the cabinet itself. Not only a good storage solution, it was cheap as well. This one was a reclaimed tv cart. I whipped up some doors for it quick and put a new top and sides on it along with a little adding a little support. It holds most of my tackle trays now. I whipped it up pretty quick, and again I did it on the cheap. I think both projects combined cost me around $35. I think they'd make good projects for you too. (ps ignore the dirty unused fish tank lol)

A nice solid sweep is all that is needed.

I'll fish for anything, but mainly bass. I've never had anyone give me grief over what I fish for. Honestly I could care less if they agree with what I throw. When they come in at the end of the day with a few fish and I've caught a boatload it really doesn't bother me.

Open the bail and run your line through rod guides only and then close the bail. You'll be good to go.

You don't have to have one, but it's a nice feature. It makes repeated adjustments easier. I've got reels with both an they both work well, but I'd choose one with it vs without if I had the option.

Give Berkley 100% Flouro a try instead. I have a feeling your problems will go away.

x2 I'm planning on trying it soon.

Make sure to keep an open mind. I've used FC for the last few years and haven't had any of the issues most people here talk about.

I'd probably go with a Premier in Medium power Fast action. Have heard good things about the President for a spinning reel.

It's meant to be seen by the fish. The profile makes it look like a baitfish, and although the color is not natural, in dirtier water you need something that stands out and not blend in or worse, disappear in the water.

Look into the Booyah Pad Crashers. They're great frogs and my go to frogs. Spros are also great frogs, but I feel the "crashers" are just as good and a fraction of the price.

I don't label my baits. I separate mine in my tackle trays. I've got a 0-5 foot box, a 6-10 foot box, and a 10+ box. I don't need to be any more accurate than that. If you're really concerned about writing on them just buy the Rapala DT crankbaits. They have the diving depth right on the bill.

I'm thinking it'll work well for your application. I'd go ahead an buy it. That reel will balance it just fine too.

Sometimes I'll use a trailer to change the profile of the bait to get them to commit better.

As mentioned, you can look for opens. Some may be higher priced, but if you look hard enough or ask around you might be able to find a smaller one. Otherwise get in touch with some clubs in the area. They may allow you to fish in one of theirs. Usually they will charge you a bit more than their entry, or make you pay the club due to fish. It's also worth asking around because some clubs will let you join their club while paying a lower due the first year.

At least one person can smell what I'm stepping in! lol

Fluoro gives you much better slack line sensitivity, so it's better for those bottom contact baits, but it also sinks so using it for frogs or pretty much any top water is out. Same for the spinning reels, especially since you said you bobber fish with them. The fluoro will want to sink your bobber lower into the water. I feel having them mixed will allow you to be more versatile in general.

If I were in your position, I'd probably go with 50lb braid on one baitcaster, 12 lb Trilene 100% Fluorocarbon on the other. On the spinning reels I'd go 8lb Trilene 100% Fluorocarbon XL on one and 20 lb braid on the other.

Generally I uses straight fluoro for T-rigs.

I would think they'd be a pretty good place to start. I know a lot of people out there are skeptical about technique specific anything, and I was to an extent. When you think about it though they build those off of the suggestions they receive, and/or from their pro staff input. The result is a rod that the majority of fishermen are looking for and that that will also mean there are some who won't think it's what they're looking for. If you're just getting into a technique though, it's probably a pretty good starting point.

I would think that it'd be pretty hard to see much with the side imagining on a screen that small. I'd look into saving up for something bigger.

For the oil, you want to make sure it carries the TCW-3 rating for all 2 stroke outboards.