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If I remember correctly they are epoxied on. Best bet it to talk to an installer, or call the company who makes yours.

Some use them, and others have foot switches. Those that opt for the remote, usually do so they can stow/deploy from anywhere in the boat. The foot switches are wireless just like the remotes, but are screwed down to the deck.

As stated before, they are the "oh crap" handles.

I've had my gas light come on in my vehicle at the ramp before, but never ran out. With my boats...that's a different story haha. With my old boat, the gauge would read 1/4 tank less than what was in it. It was kind of nice because if you ran it down to "E" you knew you still had enough to get back. However with a lot of the smaller lakes around here and just hitting the water for a few hours 1/4 tank is more than enough to get you through....in most cases haha. I only ran out once with it, and managed to pump the bulb enough suck up a little extra gas to make it the little ways left to get back to the ramp. With the boat I currently have, the gas gauge reads higher when it's on the trailer than when it's in the water. Unfortunately it's accurate when in the water. Ran out one night when fishing against my dad in our little father son tourneys we have shortly after I got the boat. Got to be pulled back to the ramp by dad haha.

I recommend trying the Eco Pro Tungsten Pro Wacky Weights. They're small, compact, easy to rig, don't add drag when skipping, and they actually make you worms last longer. I've been using them for about 3 years now and don't throw a wacky rig without one.

The best I can describe it is think of power as the amount or force it takes to flex a rod blank. The action is describing the taper of the tip of the rod. (think of where the power tapers off) A rod that has an extra fast action will taper off quickly from the power of the rod blank to the tip. This results in a rod that gets to the power of the rod blank very quickly as it bends, where as a fast action does not taper off from the power of the blank as quickly so more of the rod will be lower than the rated power of the blank and it will flex deeper into the blank. I don't know if that really clears it up or not but I gave it a shot haha. Also worth checking out to explain things http://stcroixrods.com/why-st-croix/power-action/

They came with a 42" or 45" if my memory serves me right. There's really no need to go any longer than that. If you're fishing really big waves all the time then sure, but for about 97% of people who own one a 45" will be just fine.

I was going to say your problem is that you have a Minn Kota haha.

It really depends on what year the 115 is. I don't remember which year it was, but in the early 80's OMC made a switch in how they rated the HP of their motors to a propshaft rated HP. Since the propshaft rating was less than the previous method, the early model 140's became the new 115's and they introduced a newer bigger block for the 120/130/140. If the 115 is newer performance would be pretty much identical. If you were satisfied with the performance, and it is a newer 115 you could go for it, but If I were you I'd do some more looking and try to find a newer 150.

Hydraulic jack plates are a nice option as they let you tune on the fly for best performance per water condition, load, and allow you to get into very skinny water without dinging up a pro. As far as the shallow water anchors go, they are very useful if you're a shallow water fisherman, but if you're out deep a lot they aren't quite as useful. Something else worth mentioning is that depending on what bracket you get, shallow water anchors can be mounted multiple ways. The most common standard bracket gets sandwiched in between the motor bracket and the transom so you don't need a jackplate to mount either.

Wow that's quite the story! Glad it all worked out in the end! One time out fishing with my dad I hooked into one when we were out cranking a sunken tree. He put his rod down and came back to net my fish. When we got it in he turned around his rod was GONE! The bait was just sitting in the water and a fish must have came up and hit it and then pulled it in. He ended up going back later with another crankbait and snagged it. Unfortunately no fish was still on.

Congrats! Now get out there and wack em!

Next time read OP's post. He's not having issues catching fish in the least, he's asking a forage base question.

I have this happen, plus have those that i KNOW I bought yet can't find! haha

Observations from op's first post. You're fishing thick matted veggies with a MH/F rod, that's far less than ideal. If it's slower than a fast action I think might be an issue as well because it won't drive those big hooks home as quick.Switching to a M/F will only make the fish loss issue worse. You need to be able to stick them and get them moving quickly. You're good as far as the braid goes, and you're throwing good frogs so that shouldn't be the issue. I'd say try a longer stiffer rod...think broomstick with a little softer tip. You shouldn't have to pause very long before you set the hook. If I had to guess I probably give them a half a second or less before I swing for the fences. Also, you need to know that fish can be finicky with a frog. They can sometimes blow up on it and just plain miss. When the bite is on though it can be tremendous, but even then, if they can still miss. Heck you know there's times for sure they go to eat it through a matt and they get nothing but a mouth full of grass and it just pushes the frog ahead of them. Just keep at it and you'll get it!

I use mostly straight tails now, but if we're talking ribbon tail worms, my favorite would be Culprit Original 7.5"

Depending on seating position, 40 mph seems really slow. It makes me think W2S is right about your fin dragging. Even with 3 people in the boat you should be in the mid to upper 40's I'd think. Also, with a stainless prop on a bass boat you can usually trim it all the way out running up towards WOT without it porpoising as long as you don't have a lead brick on the bow. Not that that's how you're going to get your best speed necessarily, but it really shouldn't be bouncing all that much. Maybe it's just me, but it just seems like something is off there. As for the transom saver issue. I'd extend yours as it should go out further than that. When you put it on don't trim it down so far that the pistons start to retract. Just trim it down enough that it takes the play out of the system. The weight will be split between the hydraulics and transom saver. It shouldn't be delivering as much of a jarring force over bumps and rubber isolators should help to not deliver any unhealthy vibrations to the motor.

Can the porpoising be eliminated or minimized using the trim? You may have to redistribute weight in your boat too and move some heavier stuff up front.

Never heard of this before. I just looked into it though and in WI "recreational motor boats" can't file for exemptions.

Then you disable the VRO and run a pre-mix. The engines themselves are built like tanks Sounds like you have your answer then! I hope it works out for you. One thing you're going to want to add to that is a deck extension even if it's only the half one that is open underneath, it'll make a big difference.

What Blue said. I always tie to a split ring if it's there.

Basketball player/fan/coach here. I've been playing team ball since I was in 5th grade and I managed to get good enough to play college ball. For the most part, my high school and college years were non-stop basketball with me playing all year long. I'm down to playing at open gyms, in a men's league, and coaching now. It's what gets me through the hard water times up here. I don't follow it as much as I used to. I tend to keep track of it more at a high school level now instead of pro or college games. I do watch the NBA Playoffs and NCAA tournament as well as some Badger games as well. If the season wasn't so hectic, I'd probably watch more than I do.

Not a Minn Kota fan, but don't buy their cheaper stuff. It's junk. I'm sure there will be people who comment saying they aren't, but I've see WAY too many that have problems to recommend them.

I've got a 97 Ranger Sport R70 with an Evinrude 130. It's the same hull as the 72 just a single console version. I absolutely love mine. They are great boats and it fishes bigger than it is. It handles bigger water very well for it's size and it well built. One negative about the 72's is that the rod locker was cut short to fit in the console. From what I've gathered, it makes fitting longer rods in pretty much impossible. There is a rod ramp you could keep them on though. Obviously this purchase will come down to personal preference, as well as price and condition. If it were me, I'd be looking closely at the Ranger.

I really don't think you should tip unless the guide went above and beyond or you had a exceptional day. Being that it's on Sturgeon Bay, you'll most likely have an exceptional day anyway, but if you feel they put in extra effort to make sure you had a great time throw in a little extra.