meade95

I've been like wise looking at the 580G's. was thinking of going blue frame but seems Green would be best all around fit. Glad I read up here. Also looking at Smith Optics Frontman Polarized Sunglasses in the ChromaPop Gray Green lens. I've never worn the glass lenses before so I'm curious if they are that much heavier.

I'm curious looking for advice. I have a public lake near me that is not al that big (less than 500 acres). It gets limited pressure as it sits within a private rural housing area. It has quality bass in it and I would like to see about pushing for some slot limits on those looking to take fish (not catch and release). What is a good avenue to take? I've written my local town manager (no response). Ask the private housing development where the lake is located within (no response).

Appreciate the words of advice. My confidence is with braid and I just wanted to hear some others thoughts.... regarding my second guessing in the back of my head on some days (or nights when I want to think about fishing) that hey, perhaps I'm missing bites because I don't use mono/floro at all.....

I've become so comfortable (with the feel, responsiveness, strength, knot tying) of Powerpro braid....I don't use anything else. Is this costing me fish (by not using mono / Floro)?? I fish mainly a few lakes in NC, lots of timber (very little grass) off color, usually between 1 1/2-5 feet visibility depending on last time in rained. Just curious.

Recently purchased a couple Live Target Pumpkin flat sided Sq Bills. I'm wondering if I need to tune it some (how so). Or if it runs as it should. It just seems to run to the side and up sometimes. Looks great on the twitch and couple turns of reel....but if I reel steady has a very awkward almost to surface on side type retireve. I'm using a clinch knot (improved). I've caught several good bass off it , 2 over 6 pounds. But still I wonder if something is off.

Advice on a dedicated Frog pole. I'll be using mainly sporo popping frog (around mostly timber) and less frequently the pads crasher frogs (non popping version) around some pads and grass. Would it be better to go with a 7ft MH Fast tip. Or a 7ft Heavy X-Fast tip ?? Side question? Do you get further casting distance with a H over a MH?

I've mostly used off-set worm hooks for fishing my worms and flukes (even some creature baits). I'm wanting to start using straight shank hooks (as I read hook up % are much better). Recommended hooks? As of now I'm thinking of getting the Roboworm Rebarb Hooks ) Also size wise would a 3/0 be good enough for 7 - 10 inch worms or would 4/0 be better? Thanks!

Yes, 60 FourStroke

Yep. Note to self once you pay for engine service go over it yourself. It never overheated to point of shutting down or showing overt signs of overheating. Very likely some water is in with oil.

So, Last year I purchased an Bass Tracker 175x* This past month I took it to be serviced (regular motor maintenance) I took it to place where I purchased boat from. They did engine service and upgraded my trolling motor. I've since used the boat running hard twice. I noticed after first trip to water at end of the day while idling to pull out and small slick of "lube" type film across the water. I chalked it up to looking like it was lube from where they had greased the motor and lift section as I could not see it off the motor itself anywhere. Took it out again yesterday. Notice the same lubish type film on water and also noticed during end of the day some darkish water (coffee color) at back of my boat from where water had come in after a quick stop (lake water). Long story short this morning I popped the motor hood and low and behold they did not put the oil screw cap back on the motor. What is the likely damage here? This boat has been run hard twice basically with an low oil and water mixture within it.... I've called them and let them know. They have told me serevice will be in touch (it hasn't yet). Also I plan to tow boat back to them in morning.

I think not returning bigger fish to the water is just foolishness. Yep, his right. But short sighted and foolish. It's peoples right to act like a d*ck each day too, doesn't mean I support it...(and that was not directed toward OP...his probably a great guy).

This solved the issue. Easy and makes what seems to me the perfect braid to spool solution (non slip). I did 4 reels direct and 4 reels with this knot over tape.

Yo Zuri 3D square bills put off a ton of flash in water. I've caught some really good bass on them. Also the Storm Aghasi (Sp) paint job maybe just adequate but d**n the silent version has produced big fish for me.

As I continue in my process of respooling all my baitcasters with backing / tape or tied to the spool....I am somewhat surprised to see that modern day $120+ baitcasters sold today aren't ready out of the box to throw todays top quality braid without some type of after purchase work around to stop slippage.... I also wonder the more I look at it why tying directly to the spool holes would cause any concern (it certainly would stop the ability for any slippage) and unless you run down to the spool on a fish....or close to out....would it really put that much more added pressure on the bearing system of the reel? I was also reading where some pros USE braid as their backing for mono for further casting abilities (yet these pros never talked of slippage caused by braid being tied direct). Are they tying to the spool holes??? Are they using mono, braid, mono type deal? (that seems insane).

I've respooled 4 reels tonight. Went with just the electrician tape around the spool / braid tied to taped spool (have to go out and get some mono to test that method). I've never experienced the slippage I felt yesterday on the water so this has me thinking all day. It is interesting that simple electrician tape around spool does the trick (I only wrapped around maybe 2 / 3 times). that enough is good for the braid to not slip I believe?? Wonder if reels will go to a type of rubber fitting around the spool to solve this braid issue (pre market purchase).