cjam93

I would go for a walking bait. You could still cover water fairly quickly and use a different presentation at the same time.

I picked up a mh mod tatula for squarebills a while back and quickly realized I hated the way it handled. It made the squarebill feel like a deep diving crank the way it pulled. I am much happier throwing my squarebills on medium mod or mod-fast.

Awesome thank you!

If you dont mind me asking, what is the price difference between shipping pvc and cardboard?

thanks guys!

Hey guys I wasnt sure if this was the right spot for this or not, if it isnt then I apologize. I was just wondering where you get cardboard tubes for shipping rods in? thanks!

So you guys all have my convinced to stay way from trying to do this on my own haha. Im going to just make do with my reel for the rest of this season and send it off in the winter. Thanks!

Ok thanks guys!

Usually my leader is close to a foot, but I reel the knot past my first guide because like I said I have never noticed it hurting the guide or anything like that with the guides I am using now. I feel like this length separates my worm far enough from the high vis braid to not be an issue. I am asking what length leader people use because if I were to downsize my guides and start not reeling the knot into the guides then I would like to know what length most people feel comfortable with being long enough to separate the high vis from the worm, if they feel like visibility does in fact matter.

I like to use high vis braid. So I am concerned that the very bright yellow could be noticeable to the fish. I want to start using rods with guides smaller than 6mm, but I have had my knot knock the insert out of guides before when they were smaller. I have never had a 6mm guide have a problem with the knot passing through. I dont do this to avoid FC line, I do this because braid to a leader is my preferred set up. If I were to use fc on my worm rod it would be as the leader connecting to my braid. Mono is much cheaper though than fc and I havent had any problems with it as my leader so that is what I use.

I usually leave the bait 4-8 inches from the rod. You think that would be long enough to separate the worm from the high vis and not bother the fish?

Thanks, but Im going to also start using rods with smaller guides than the 6mm guides I have been using. So I would really like to not let the knot pass through the guides.

Hey guys so I have gone to high vis braid a mono leader for my texas rigging. I prefer mono to fc. Anyways I have been making a pretty long leader and letting it pass through the top guide of my rod, but I would like to stop doing so as I am concerned over time it will hurt the guide. Anyways how long do you usually make your leaders? When I make shorter leaders I usually worry that they are not long enough and that the fish will be able to see the high vis because it is to close to the worm.

I did add a marking pencil to the order, thanks for the reminder! I just made the order!

Thanks I just saw that, I will get that instead. Haha sounds good to me! Im really excited to start this.

Thanks! I was planning on getting their 4pc reamer kit, I should have mentioned that. I will grab an alcohol torch bottle as well for the bubbles, thanks for mentioning that! I am likley going to start with a MHX blank since they are pretty cheap, and since mudhole has the guide placing chart on their website for the MHX blanks I probably wont worry with testing the placement on my first few builds. Thanks again!

Hey guys so I am looking into getting a new rod. It will be for texas rigging 3/16-3/8 oz and jigs 1/4-3/8oz. A lot of the time I am using the rod I will be throwing into cover, but not extremely heavy cover. Itll be laydowns for the most part. So would you recommend the 7ft mh f or 7ft mh xf? Thanks!

Hey guys so I am interested in starting to build my own rods. My dad used to do it a lot years ago, but we do not have any of his equipment any more. Anyways we were looking at the set up that Mudhole sells http://www.mudhole.com/Rod-Building/Tool-Kits/Rod-Building-Small-Business-Start-Up-Kit What do yall think about this kit? I know it says complete, but just to be completely sure, is there anything else I would need as well? I know of course the thread and things like that, Im just talking about tools and what not. Also one other question is how do you like the probond epoxy that comes with it? Dad said he used to always use flexcoat I believe it was called. Thanks again!

Ok awesome thank you! Im really excited to get the reel in and try it.

Hey guys so this is probably a dumb question, but I have seen a lot of people talk about flushing their baitcaster before oiling and greasing it. When you do this do you take the reel all the way apart? Also if you are not taking it apart all the way how do you go about drying the internals after rinsing it? I have a Tatula that is acting up and I feel like it just needs a good cleaning, however I really dont want to take it apart in order to clean it if there is another way. Thanks!

Thanks for that! I saw on lews website that the 4 grey tabs are actually for reducing the amount of breaking applied. So am I thinking correctly that then if I engage the grey tab it should actually increase distance since it is reducing the breaks, but increase the chance of overruns and what not?

Thanks for the reply! Mostly I will be using it for fishing 10-20ft ledges with jigs and texas rigs. They will likely be 1/2oz jigs and 3/8oz texas rigs. I will also use swinghead jigs some, but no where near as much as I will be using the normal jigs and t-rig. Sounds like I will probably go with what you and gulfcaptain said and try to find a mh. Thanks again!

Thanks guys!

Thanks guys for the advice! I dont have a Cabelas close to me or I would for sure look into that! I like the Okuma but I would like to be able to get my hands on it before buying it and I also dont have a place I can see the Quantum rods at the moment. I am really leaning towards the ***. I just need to go look at the different powers and see which I want. Thanks again!

Hey guys so I am getting a a Lews BB1 in the mail pretty soon. It will be the first baitcaster I have used that did not use magnetic brakes. I would like some advice on how to go about adjusting it. With my magnetic braking baitcasters I always turn all the brakes off before I adjust the spool tension when changing baits. Do I need to go and turn each pin off in the BB1 before adjusting the tension? Also I read that with centrifugal brakes you need to have them set so that the brake across from the one you are setting is also set to on, or have them set symmetrically. Is this also true for the BB1? I ask because it has the smart pin system and it seems to me that if you wanted to adjust the brakes and it had to be symmetrically then you would only be able to have the two brakes on, or the two brakes off. Can you have just one on and leave the one across from it off? Thanks guys!