iceintheveins

Well the problem has been figured out. I had a faulty battery meter, when in actuality the battery was VERY low. I charged it and everything, pumps and lights, work.

There is no power to the wires that connect to the socket for the bow light/running light. Checking all the connections at the light switch did nothing. The stern light is the only one that works. My bilge pump, and both livewell pump switches do not even light up, let alone turn on. I checked all connections to those switches. Nothing worked. They worked in Novemeber, last time I used my boat. It sat all winter and when I was checking all systems for spring (we had a late spring in Colorado) l, the bilge pump switch and, livewell pump switches don't light up. Checked all connections. Nothing fixed it. It just quit working after sitting all winter. No power to the bow light when I checked the wires running to the socket. Stern light works. Are these the square fuses located behind the dash panel at the switches? Or the main fuse in the transom near the crank battery that powers the master switch?

My master switch is working, my console sonar is working, and the boat starts and runs. The back nav light socket works, but the bow one does not. The bow trim switch works. I checked the master switch connections at the console, and I have power to it. However, no power to the nav light switch connectors, yet the switch lights up and works like the master switch. No other switch (livewell pumps and bilge pump) have power or light up when turned on. I checked connections to the main fuse in the back, and it has power. While plugged into the fuse I get no reading. What is going on?

I use 6 or 8 pound test, conditioner, and a Pflueger President 6930. Usually drop shot, flukes, neds, curly tails, small worms, and senkos. Occasionally finesse cranks as well.

I've have found most fluoro not to cast as far, and to form tangles and knots worse than mono on spinning reels due to stiffness. Sunline sniper and Seaguar invisx have been the best so far.

My Helix SI GPS Mega gives fuzzy images, especially on down image, though the side imaging leaves some to be desired too. It's not working that great on 455 khz either. I've tried factory resets numerous times, and trying to mess with the sensitivity, contrast, and dynamic contrast to get a clear, clutter free picture. Even in shallow water it sucks so far. I have cycled through the noise rejection, 6 settings, and it makes no difference. I have included two pics, one of the side image and one of the down image. The two lakes I'm fishing have a fair amount of silt, but not horrible. The picture just sucks. Worse than my Helix 5 si GPS without Mega. It's no where even close to as clear as my Garmin Echomap UHD 63 with clear vu that is by the trolling motor. I've tried to make sure the ducer is level on the transom, trying several settings. I'll take a picture of the location where it's posted. It's in the same spot my old ducer was that performed okay. I know 455 khz is better in deep water. Occasionally when I turn the unit on, it says "transducer not connected". Do I have a bad ducer? Head issue? The bottom here is mostly muck, but the down image doesn't do well on hard bottom either. The regular sonar works just fine.

I already erased all tracks and maps and waypoints. So something must be wrong with the internal memory. Could I just put an sd card in and use that to store my waypoints and access them on the same unit?

My helix will no longer save waypoints. As soon as I turn the unit off they are gone. Tried a restore default settings, erasing all existing tracks and waypoints, and even turned snapshot off. Wth is going on? Could I buy a sd card and save the waypoints onto that?

I have a 19 foot nitro to answer the question. My current coupler is 3.5" across and rated for 6000 pounds max GVWR and 600 pounds tongue load. It does have a hydraulic brake. Is the brake a must?

I need a replacement tongue coupler for my trailer hitch. Will this type do provided it's the right size and weight class?

Anyone know what the water temp is on average in Late March or early April? I would guess 70s. So probably post spawn/late spring bass and warm enough for my gf to swim?

I never have this happen with spinning gear, and I throw my light jerkbaits on 15 pound power pro. It's only when I started using 20 pound power pro on a baitcaster and have had problems with it digging in. It doesn't break at any knot, usually the fluorocarbon leader( which I always check for abrasion) or the braid itself. So since I use even lighter braid with zero issues on spinning gear, I know it has to be the line digging in, because that's what's happening as I get a very sudden stop and backlash.

I like throwing my hard jerkbaits on braid because it's so responsive. However I was using only 6 pound diameter braid, against my better judgment, and broke off several megabass vision 110s due to line digging in and the shock of the mid cast stop breaking off my jerkbaits, which as you know is expensive. So I switched to fluorocarbon. My question is, can I safely throw jerkbaits on a baitcaster with braid that has 10 to 12 pound test diameter with less fear of digging in and losing my expensive jerkbaits? Or should I stick to fluoro to be safe?

I took the cover off the powerhead. Where do the right and left cables go, both are loose?

I got the cables on the pulley, but now I have the opposite problem. They are too loose, and the pedal moves without steering the motor. The screw at the bottom of the foot pedal is tightened all the way.

The cables came loose from the pulley while attempting a repair. How can I get the proper cable back on the pulley? Also, my foot control is stuck and won't steer my motor. I tried loosening the front screw under the pedal but that didn't work. Help me get this baby working again, I'm going insane. It is a Minn Kota Edge 55.

Do you need to clean ceramic bearings occasionally. And if so, with what to prevent damaging them? Say soap and water?

I have to pimp the Dynamic Lures J spec here. It's a finesse option at 3.5" and needs spinning gear, but it suspends perfectly and has the right balance of dart and random action for a coldwater option for pressured or turned off bass. Runs down to 4 to 5 feet.

The E series was amazing and better than the I. I do like the infinite braking system though. Sadly the K doesn't come with a crankbait model. Not a fan of the high speed craze, cranks to me require a 5 ratio reel (deep mostly). However when I get two more high speed reels, they will both be Ks.

Going to Lake Oahe the week before memorial day. Water should be 53 to 55 from what I'm told. Where are some good areas for smallies, and also pike and eyes? And what would you use for each?

I took out the bearing on my Tatula HD 200HS to clean it. I put everything back together in the right order. Now, I cannot get the reel to reel without grinding, and it has an extremely difficult time engaging the clutch. The reel is smooth when the screws are out but the clutch doesn't function and the lure won't drop even with the loosest spool tension. I noticed one screw of the three is longer than the others. What am I doing wrong. Here is a pic of the side where the screws go in. Am I putting the screws in wrong or is something else the matter?

This is my favorite weedless topwater.

The Dredger 20.5 does touch 21' at times on 10 pound fluoro and a slow speed reel

Pearl, baby bass, and baitfish are my favorite three colors.