michang5

I wanted to update this tread with my learnings. Switched to Owner Weedless Wacky hooks in 1/0 size. The Gamakatsu weedguard seems to work a tiny bit better when it accidentally gets thrown into a tree branch. That said, I've only lost one Owner hook due to snag. The Owner hook isn't a cure-all to my hookset problems. I lost one fish (see below), but landed 4. Owner weedguard seems to keep its shape and stay glued better. The Gama ones only last about 3-4 fish before weakening/ungluing. I'm still testing rubber bands versus o-rings, but o-rings currently have the edge. Perpendicular hook placement with rubber bands = 2 fish Parallel hook placement with o-ring = 2 fish I've lost three senkos due to rubber-band failure. One the bands snapped on hookset. A fish pulled the senko out of another, leaving band and hook. Third one snapped during cast. With old Gama hooks, I lost several o-ringed 4" senkos. With the looser o-ring fit, they seemed to just work their way off the hook. I haven't experienced this with the Owner hooks so far. As most have noted here, slack management and hookset technique have been the more/most important factors. I've been practicing (while standing on bank, sitting on bank, and in kayak) counting to 3 as I reel up slack with tip down and then lifting or sweeping the rod tip. This has proven successful for the 4 wacky senko fish, as well as the numerous other fish I've caught the last few weeks with open-hook wacky and drop-shot setups. The one wacky senko fish I lost was because I dorked out and didn't do the above steps. Minding the line slack has helped as well. I suspect just paying more attention to line in general has translated to better attention placed on the hookset when a fish does bite. Thanks again to everyone for the help! While I feel like I still have lots of room for improvement, I think I've "solved" the problem.

I still primarily fish from the bank, but I've been renting a kayak every few weeks (going out tomorrow in fact). If I eliminate the one spot that I know I can catch dink after dink from a kayak, I would say I catch more from the bank. Maybe it's because I've broken down the bank spots after repeat visits, or that I'm more likely to try more different spots from a kayak... PB from a canoe = 5.75# PB from the bank = 4.25#

WOW! That is cheap! Not sure about shipping, but still... Will definitely bookmark that in case my rubber bands don't work. Thanks!

As I noted in that thread, I've had good luck with my wacky rig until just recently. I typically use a single o-ring. There are lots if great suggestions on how to improve hooksets with a wacky rig, particularly from a kayak. I personally don't care to use two o-rings just to get the hook perpendicular. While they're not expensive, the o-rings are not exactly cheap either (esp. when one of my options is to buy them from Lowes at $3-4 for a pack of 10). And losing a senko, two o-rings, and a hook if you snag can quickly add up. That's why I was excited to try the rubber band hair ties today. It might be a super cheap way to rig the senko for better hookups.

Insert the hook between the o-ring and the worm/stick. You don't want to pierce the worm when using the o-ring. I started another thread about wacky rigging and there are two pics there: http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/130873-need-help-from-kayakers-that-fish-wacky-senkos/page-2#entry1449416

I don't understand your last question, but an alternative to a wacky tool is the bottom half of one of those 4-color pens: BIC 4-Color Ball Pen, Medium Point, 3 Pack, Assorted Ink (MMP31-ASST) by BIC http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JFR8Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_AGS-sb0S3SX4J Works great on 4" and 5" senkos.

BOOM! 300! rubber band hair ties from Walgreens for $2.50. Three loops around the senko and insert new Owner hook in recommended perpendicular position. If these don't melt from the senko salt like the clear poly hair ties I used to use, we will have a winner. Oh...and it's gotta catch fish, of course.

Rain and cold prevented me from practicing today, so I have been researching different wacky hooks — weedless and open. Seems like an equal number of folks love and hate the Gamakatsu weedless finesse WG hook with the plastic weedguard. More people dislike the VMC version with the metal guard than like it More people like the Owner wacky hooks than dislike it. General criticism is that the fiber weedguard really doesn't help much on the weedless version, but it doesn't seem to get in the way of the excellent hook At lunch I stopped by Gander Mountain to check out their options (which was pretty pitiful BTW). However, they did have Owner wacky hooks (open, no weedguard), and I stood there for 5 minutes debating between Size 1, 1/0 and 2/0. I ultimately grabbed a pack of Size 1, and I'm now uncertain about the choice. QUESTION: For folks that hook through the senko, I can understand using a larger 2/0 hook. But what size hook do you o-ring or Goody-band fans use? I've googled and haven't seen any definitive pairings — "I use o-rings and I use a Size XXX hook."

Excellent additions, everyone. Thanks again. I went out for an hour today and sat on a folding stool practicing my casts, slack-line management and hooksets. In the middle of each retrieve, I would drop the rod tip, reel up slack quickly, and sweep set left or right. Definitely not a home-run-swing set, but done with purpose as HeavyDluxe suggested. Didn't care if I caught anything. Just trying to build muscle memory. I hope to practice several more times this week (from the bank) and get more on-water practice before the next tournament event in late March. Finally, I plan on ordering the Owner weedless wacky hooks that a few have suggested above. I hope to report back with improvements.

Thank you very much, everyone! Every time I ask a question, I get such greet responses. After reading the above, I'm pretty certain that my hooksets -- when paired with the weedless hooks -- are to blame. I keep a pretty slack line at times, and my hooksets is pretty much a lift up paired with hope that the fish will hook itself. Previously I've thought about sitting on a folding chair while bank fishing to practice my kayak casting. I think I need to actually do it now to practice my seated reel-down-and-sweep hooksets. And/or I need to make a switch to open Gama finesse WG hooks while kayak fishing. It sounds like you guys aren't using the weedguard versions. Thanks again!

Preface: I throw wacky GYCB senkos and wacky Zoom finesse worms about 75% of time. Until recently I only fished from the bank. My wacky senko setup: 20# braid > 10# fluoro > Gamakatsu weedless finesse WG hook (http://www.amazon.com/Gamakatsu-Finesse-Weedless-Hook-5-Black/dp/B0010G283A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391917685&sr=8-1&keywords=gamakatsu+weedless+hooks) > o-ring > 4" or 5" senko. Hook sizes: I used to use 2/0. Recently downsized to Size 1. I have confidence in the rig from the bank. I've had very few missed hook sets or spit hooks with either hook size. --- My last two kayak fishing trips (which included my first tournament outing today) have chipped away at my confidence. Using the Size 1 hook last week, I lost two fish after setting the hook. I felt the weight and was reeling in when they popped off early during the retrieve. Using the Size 1 today, I lost two good fish as they jumped out of the water. A friend mentioned that he has had difficulties setting the hook and subsequently losing fish after he started fishing from a kayak. That leads me to question whether I am setting the hook well enough from a seated position. Question 1: Any suggestions on setting a hook from a seated, water-level position? Question 2: And/or should I go back to the larger 2/0 weedless hook? Question 3: And/or should I switch weedless hook brands or find a hook without a weed guard? I tried throwing o-ringed senkos with the open Gamakatsu Size 1 drop-shot hooks that I use for wacky finesse worms, but I didn't like the results. Thanks for the insight.

Setup 1: Shimano Stradic spinning reel (size 10/1000) > St. Croix Premier 6'6" MF rod > PowerPro Super 8 Slick 10# high-vis yellow braid > Invizx 6# fluoro leader (7-10') > Gamakatsu size 1 drop shot hook > Zoom Finesse Worm hooked just below the "egg sack". *I've occasionally used a 1/4" piece of heat shrink to extend the life of the worm. --- Setup 2: Okuma Stratus spinning reel (size 25) > Okuma Reflexions 6'6" M rod > backing > PowerPro Super 8 Slick #20 high-vis yellow braid > Seaguar Red Label #10 leader (7-10') > Gamakatsu size 1 weedless finesse EWG hook > o-ring > 4" or 5" GYCB Senko. *I've experimented with larger weedless hooks sizes, open hooks, heat shrink instead of o-rings, and my daughter's hair ties instead of o-rings (which allow for hook to be perpendicular to senko). I have the most confidence in the final setup above. --- I throw the more finesse Setup 1 into lighter cover with no wind. I reach for Setup 2 when the situation is the opposite, or when there is rip-rap or if I need to skip under branches. Both have been very effective.

I pair my Tatula with a *** *** Black 7'1" MH. I like it quite a bit. Take the money you save and buy some bait.

This is an extreme situation, but my kayak fishing trip yesterday reinforced my choice to go with yellow PowerPro Super 8 Slick braid. Both of my spinning rods have the yellow braid with 6# or 10# fluoro leaders. I was fishing in a creek mid day. I cast a wacky finesse worm out and was slowly working it back like I normally do. For reasons I don't recall, I set down that rod and decided to throw a wacky senko with my other rod. I never do this; I must have seen a school swim by. Bad cast and my senko wraps around a high tree branch. As I'm fighting to pull up anchor to go un-snag, I see out of the corner of my eye the yellow braid of my finesse worm swim off. Grabbed the rod and pulled in a fish. Determined to see if this do-nothing method would work again, I push back to my original spot. I cast out the same finesse worm, set my rod down, and get to work retying the leader on my senko setup while keeping an eye on the yellow braid. I catch four more fish this way, each time keyed by the braid taking off. Again, this was a one-time experiment, and I don't expect to repeat it. But the high-viz yellow PP braid continues to prove its worth.

x2 on Garret88's suggestion (except different knot). For my baitcaster, I use the Alberto knot and use a small piece of electrical tape to hold and smooth the knot down. For my spinning reel, I spool on just a bit more braid than my absolute longest possible cast and that covers up the knot just fine.

I don't know about the Mojo side of things, but I stood in Cabela's for 10 minutes looking over the Triumph versus the Premier. The guides are the most noticeable difference. The Premier guides were glued on better/neater. The metal used in the guides also looked more stout. And finally the Triumph guides were positioned at more severe angle (instead of closer to perpendicular, they were at about 45 degree angles). I also liked the Made in USA-ness of the Premiers, so I bought one.

Slam your palm down on the spool with whatever hand isn't holding the rod. I don't tend to touch the line because I use braid on my spinning reels and I don't want to get cut.

I picked up a pack of the 1/8oz long-billed Scroungers recently and found this article: http://www.bassmaster.com/gear/aaron-martens-scrounger I started out using Zoom's "The Fluke" (the smaller one without the slit in the body). After reading the article, I switched to a Zoom Tiny Fluke. It looks great in the water, but I've yet to catch anything with it. According to the interview, they're supposed to be great for the summer.

x2. My "general purpose" spinning setup gets 20# PP Super 8 Slick in yellow with a 10# Seaguar Red Label leader. I was using 12# Invizx, but wanted to save a buck or two after getting a second spinning setup.

Here is an oddity to add to the Mojo vs Premier discussion: I recently bought a "Cabela's exclusive" St. Croix Premier spinning rod with a split grip. They also list the same in a casting rod. Btw... The Premier is a fantastic rod paired with my Stradic 1000fi. The decreased weight of the split grip really puts the whole thing in balance for me with the smaller reel. Lastly, I also have the *** Black 7'1" MH for my casting setup. I like it. I wish the grip was a bit different. I throw completely different tackle with it, so I can't offer much comparison between the two.

Yamamoto Senko 4" and 5" Colors: Cinnamon with red tip, watermelon, green pumpkin, purple, watermelon/green pumpkin laminate. No real rhyme or reason on which color they like and when. Zoom Finesse Worm Color: Watermelon red flake Zoom Baby Brush Hog Color: Watermelon red flake, green pumpkin

Yes. As I mentioned in another thread, the only issue I have is line bow/slack with the braid. This is obviously made worse with wind.

I got a St. Croix Premier 6'6" MF 2-piece spinning rod to pair with a Shimano Stradic 1000fi recently. The version has a split grip, which Cabela's advertises as exclusive to them. It is extremely light and well balanced with the Stradic. I'm running 10# braid with a 6# fluoro leader. I caught two 3s and a 4-pounder a few days after getting it. If you're needing to save a few bucks, you can get the Triumph. It's made in Mexico (vs. US-made Premier) and has poorer guides (at least the one I saw looked less nice than the Premier), but otherwise I've read it is the same rod.

I had some 15# CXX lying around from when I first got my baitcaster. It is extremely thick and can fill the unused space on a spool quickly. I use this as backing for the 12# Seaguar red label or 15# Invizx fluorocarbon. Definitely helps with saving on the expensive Invizx. I use a piece of electrical tape to cover the Alberto knot joining the two lines. In theory, this should also help with controlling amount of line affected by a bad backlash.

I use high-viz yellow PowerPro Super 8 Slick. Didn't see it as a choice. It has really helped me with catching light-hitting fish that just pick up the lure and swim away, which seems to be about a third of the time given the light/finesse stuff I throw. Edit: I do use a fluorocarbon leader.