Montanaro

I've been tossing a 1 1/2oz square bill wakebait on a heavy xfast rod with 65lb braid. Almost no lost fish...The ones I lost were hooked awkwardly on outside of mouths. But I also was aware of the risks and backed my drag down, no hook sets, and played the fish gently.

Sometimes they are just lock jawed. No sense in trying to figure it out. Some bass do spawn later than you'd expect. I'd try hitting the fish on the retrieve upwards of 15 times.

Jig. I can pitch it, cast it, drag it, swim it, smash it into cover. I can have multiple presentations in just one cast and never have to retie.

Yes, yes you can.

By the way, I got my punch rigs from you today. You actually took my request for rubber band option on them. I was going to go alleys but that option and cheap rage bugs were too great to turn down.

Loosely knit clothing can allow uv radiation to pass through. Cheap white tshirts for example

Scott Martin

Alleys tungsten is cheaper and offers more variety than seiberts.

My dad needs to protect himself from the sun and uv rays and the past couple years he has been wearing long sleeve shirts big sun hats, has a frog togg cool towel and even an umbrella rigged over his seat. I want to look into getting him some specialized clothing that would be cooler but still protect him. What do you all like and suggest?

7'3 heavy xfast pitching and frogs 7'3" heavy fast for punching 7' heavy fast lure rating ~2oz for sanother sitembaits 7' medium moderate for cranks 7' medium heavy for t rigs lipless vibe jigs and spinnerbaits 7' medium fast spinning for drop shot and shakey

Revenge in 1/2oz...Helps keep them down in water column. Also has a screw lock bait keeper to make It weedless

I went frogging with my dad yesterday. I missed one...He missed almost all. Difference being I wait at least 3 seconds. He waited about one. Sometimes the bass hit it and have it in their lips...you yank a second after strike and odds are the frog frog is sideways in his lips and you don't stick him...If you do then the angles were just right and he is barely hooked. When you wait three seconds,at least, it gives the bass enough time to suck it down to his crushers...so when you set hook the frog straightens out and pops him in roof of mouth not lips. Look up pictures of bass caught on frogs...they are deep hooked for a reason. Frogs are soft enough that bass hold onto them but too big for you to worry about them swallowing it like a worm. Just remind yourself that at anytime you could get a strike and to wait. Being caught off guard is the biggest reason I miss bass while frogging.

I'm going fishing Saturday with my dad and today I had the chance to do a little fishing after work with my buddy so I decided to work on finesse fishing with my spinning setup as it is a weak part of my game. So I take my 7'm ugly stick with 12lb mono and do some drop shotting and shakey heading... It was awful. I felt like I was fishing with a noodle (or more aptly a whip). I've been using BC setups for the last couple years and buy quality components and now I feel like I have to sell all my ugly sticks. I knew for a while they weren't great but would get me by...and now that I am by I wonder how I ever managed to use them! The point is...I ...want(need?)...a new spinning rod for finesse purposes that won't break the bank and want to know how I should upgrade (maybe I can sell my uglys for the rod).

If it was a small pond I'd block the ramp too! I'm going to be only one out there!

No evidence available saying braid makes a difference except personal anecdotes. In fact one scientific experiment found no difference and if the braid is thinner than a nickel then it would appear as a sliver if not nearly unnoticeable to a bass's eyes. If you want to use expensive memory prone fluoro that will last a season go for it. It still has excellent abrassion resistence.

30 pound braid. 40 if you know you are fishing heavier cover.

There is a short thread on these rods just one or two pages back, check it out

I spent much of my work day investigating fluoro leaders and have decided to go for it for most of my rods. One thing I read from an extensive in fisherman article was that one should buy fluoro leader line rather than actual fluorocarbon. Reason being the leader version is better suited for the job and comes in lesser yardage. If so, what brand should I look into? Seaguar premier leader, Sunline FC leader, other? Or am I okay using my 16 pound Sunline sniper and in the future picking a spool of tatsu? Also...does anyone have a crankbait setup with fluoro leader? It would give some flex and abrassion resistence to the outfit but still provide casting ability correct?

I catch multiple fish with no problem. I've also seen bass annihilate craw imitators with one claw missing. Change it out and deal with it or leave the one on.

I trim as I've seen bass grab all legs before...I take about 25% off

Bass won't always want to hit topwater though.

They have a 6 month warranty I believe.

As long as they have one eye they will be fine assuming they have the capability of their other senses

I bought the red ear g2 shellcracker a couple weeks ago and took it to one of my lakes. Bass still in prespawn and temp was 62. Tied it on in the evening and worked it in shallow flooded shorelines. I started by waking it which is like the combination of buzz bait and jitterbug (should be deadly at night). But I remembered the tip I saw on a video saying how well it deflects and that it should be rimmed into logs. The first submerged log I saw (~5 fow) I put my rod tip in water and cranked down. Banged into it and when rolling to the other side I saw a flash and bam! 2 pounder. Caught 3 just like that within half an hour. This thing swam through and over growing water shield stems and brush like it wasn't there. By end of day I was tossing it into some nasty cover. I plan on putting some mustad ewgs on it and probably buying bluegill or crappie. Anyone else have these and you have any tips or tricks?

Some use 7