Cgrinder

Bantam MGL behaves a lot like a Daiwa. A Bantam replaced my SV103.

The new Tatula is a surprisingly good caster, both long and versatile. Not terribly refined and no bells, whistles, or bling, but it palms great and does the job. If someone had a max budget of $200, I would recommend a new Tatula SV, no question. However, the issue is in what lies just above the price point; for $40 - $50 more, you get the Elite which feels a lot better, more solid and smooth. For $100 more, you get the Zillion SV, which has a monster spool in it, feels far more refined, and has better components (and bling!). If you can swing it, I feel you get a lot for your money.

Go get that record boys.

Been puttin a hurt on em flippin a PBJ Rage Bug and/or a Bluegill Menace. The bubble trail a Menace with an ounce makes is ridiculous. New favorite punch bait?

I'm all Assassin for fluoro currently. Handles well, inexpensive, not too stretchy. Be sure to treat it with something like KVD Line n Lure after you spool it and let it sit overnight. I've never felt the need to do anything other than that.

Sensitivity is subjective and with lower end to midrange gear, I don't think line choice matters so much. Big Game's fine. I'm straight fluoro outside of frogging, punching, and topwater, so I'm not a lotta help when it comes to nylon. Going to throw my two cents in: I've been using fluorocarbon in some capacity for around six years. I've used cheap and expensive lines from multiple brands. In that time, I have popped exactly one knot that I wasn't intentionally trying to break. In practical fishing situations, I believe the knot strength complaints are overblown and many stem from folks who are unwilling or unaware that you have to use certain knots and apply some form of lubrication during the tying process (if I get COVID, it will be from slobbering all over my knots). Sure, line conditioner is pretty much mandatory, but I use that stuff on nylon and copolymer as well. You'd be amazed how well CXX behaves after its been soaked with a little Line n Lure. I imagine it would be super good on something like Maxima.

I urge anyone who is still trying to find the fluoro for them to try Assassin. There's something about it. Smoother braid is not a selling point to me. I want to saw through them lily pads. I also don't want to sink into those same lily pads. 832 has never appealed.

Real hard to argue with original PowerPro as a starting place.

I have an Expride and it's a nice rod. Definitely strong performer for the price. Also some sub 7' options. If you can swing just a little more cheese, the new ALX Enox rods are mean. I have a BMJ and I am surprised by the sensitivity and versatility of the rod.

Well there's always the 745. Loomis JWR is a good idea. Depending on the jig weight, hook, and line, I would look anywhere from 853 to 855 (89x if you want the length).

DC has been around a long time; there's no reason to act like you've discovered some secret sauce here. I will have one at some point (I like the sound), but I'm not in a hurry. A Bantam DC would get my money right quick though.

17 lb Assassin

Zodias is a fairly versatile heavy. I used mine to pitch 1/2 oz jigs and frog in pads as well as throw 1/4 oz swim jigs with a different reel and lighter line. Pretty good performance from a $200 rod line that's several years old. The Expride 72H might have a little more power but I think you should not compromise and wait for the 73XH. If a 735 Dobyns is underpowered, you're playing a different game than I.

Purple Alphas? Those seem to be getting rarer and rarer, especially in nice shape. Depending on the upgrades, I'd expect to be in the $200 range on that site where things tend to go a bit higher than the forum markets. Edit: found reel in question I think. Would not pay $200.

No.

Yep. Death screw indeed. A sharp, #1 Phillips has a chance. I bought a Wiha set primarily for that screw. Soft screw with red Loctite; what could go wrong?

Tackle Trap or Japan Tackle. Japan Angler and Japan Lure Shop should have some stuff as well.

Tension is your friend with light (or any) braid. If you notice line getting loose on the spool, tie the line to something, walk it all out, and reel it back on good and snug. I used to use 15 lb. Power Pro a lot and never had major issues. I've also done it with 10 lb. Power Pro but that line liked to cut both leader knot and finger.

I've put a lot of fish on the Elite PF and the Tw Sv 103. The Elite feels "better" (love the knobs) but it isn't the all rounder that I had hoped it could be. The Tw Sv is a very strong performer for the money and really seems like it can do it all. I can't think of more I would want from a $200 pricepoint reel besides maybe a little more bling and not a plastic drag star.

I have the Enox BMJ. Nice rod for the money. If American made matters to you, the Enox line is worth looking into. Otherwise, the Megabass FMJ is supposed to be 'the' 1/2 oz jig rod.

Loomis 843. 12 lb ish fluoro. Copolymer or braid and leader are also fine. Treat paddletails very similarly to other single hook moving baits.

The Twistlock Light is a really good hook but it's just as it says, light. I have rolled a couple of hook points fishing them on MH rods and braid. They're great Senko hooks on straight fluoro.

Various retailers sell Loomis rep samples. However with the current global situation affecting supply chains and manufacturing, I would imagine Loomis won't be supplying a great deal of demo rods in the near future. You could also make friends with pro staffers or influencers who may have the hookup. In my experience, people with the hookup really like to talk about having the hookup, which they probably aren't supposed to do.

Best advice I can give: spend every dollar you can on a jig rod. If you're going to own one $300+ rod in your lifetime, make it your jig rod.

RI Kinky and Spicy Beavers. Awkward names though. A guy and his young son asked me what I was whackin' em on. "Uhhhhhh. . . a plastic."