Alpha Male

I was thinking that too but just wanted to see if others had difficulty from one line to the next.

I just saw this and have practiced this on some sufix mono 12lb. My question is: Is this knot going to work for fluoro? I, so far, have been able to tie this knot fast, properly, and without burning the mono. does anyone use this knot? I have tried some others like the SD jam knot, the palomar, and the cinch knot all with hit and miss success while using P-line 100% fluoro. last year with invisx i used the cinch knot exclusively and never had a knot fail but the P-line is deforming when I tie it. Thanks BR!

I to just pulled the trigger on my first JDM reel. an Abu Garcia Revo Elite 8-L. Mine is going to be my main reel for plastics, I cant believe youre not going to pawn off a PQ on your guests... if your offering a guest a scorpion I would like to volunteer as trubute!!!

Im no expert, but my thoughts are to treat it like weights on plastic baits. use it to control the rate of fall, along with how well it stays in contact with the bottom.

ugh... Soooo.... I start looking at fishing videos and see blatant baitmonkey propaganda in the form of an ad for a jerkbait fishing show and now a week later I have a Revo MGX on a fenwick silverhawk rod just waiting for the $180 worth of jerkbaits to arrive from ***! The baitmonkey decreeith and so it was that the cart was teeming with 4 LC pointers, 2 vission 110's, 2 SK KVD 200's, 2 Yamamoto Tenkuu's, 2 smithwicks, 2 duo Realis 100DR's, and 4 other random brands... also there was some split rings, trebles, and of course 2 new Plano 3771's to put it all in.

Hear that????? Sounds the baitmonkey found a new tacklebox to invade!

That does happen from time to time. The best thing you can do is use it. Break it in and after the first season either send it to DVT or do it yourself. Plenty of companies would rather sacrifice performance to reduce the number of warranty claims due to a failed bearing

Correct. And neither do the mag brakes. Both of these brakes use the inertia of the spool to act. The centrifugal brakes use the force to fly outwards and rub on the outer race and create friction to slow the spool. The mag brakes use the speed of the spool to create a field of magnetism. The spool isnt spinning fast enough when dropping a lure to act on it. The way it works is the centrifugal brakes are forced outwards at the beginning of the cast and as the spool slows and the force is lessened the stop making contact with the race. The mag brakes exert their force throughout the entire cast. You will need to experiment with what works for best you. I usually use 2 centrifugal brakes on and the mags set at 1-3. I then adjust only the mag brakes depeding on the wind.

I use a med-mod rod for most of my lipless and a medhvy-fast rod for deepdivers.

You would be surprised how much force they can exert. Also that is what your thumb is for. Good luck and go practice.

yep gone now

Yes, these steps are HIGHLY recommended: Step 1: Mount on rod Step 2: Fill spool with Proper amount of line in desired strength Step 3: Attach Lure to said line Step 4: Get lure (see step 3) wet. That is all!!! If you feel that any "maintenance" is needed for a reel that is factory new then the only "maintenance" that is needed is to return the reel for a replacement.

Fyi the zpool tension knob is the one under the drag star. If you tighten that all the way down and it still falls to the floor there is something wrong.

To start with i would want small and large offset hooks and small and large ewg hooks, one pack or megastrike e2 pro shakeyheads. A selection of weights from 3/16th oz to maybe 3/8oz. Thats the bare minimum for me. I would think this should cost you around 20-30$ depending on what brand of hooks you buy. My recommendation would be for the middle range of hooks like gamakatsu, vmc, or decoy. If you have a few more dollars i would add a medium size weighted hook, a spring loc hook in whatever size you use the most. After that i would just recommend some more plastics.

I was surprised to see how little braid i use on an average casting spool. I bought a 300 yard spool of sufix 832 and planned on using 100yards on 3 different reels. I put what i thought was 20-25 yards of 12 mono on the spool and after all 3 reels were done i still had an easy 66-75yards of braid left. I do have 2 reels that have minimal backing. My frog rod with 40lb braid and my flipping stick. The frog rod started 2 years ago with 140 yards of 40lb power pro tied through the spool and after each year i reeled the braid onto another reel added enough mono to fill up the spool. In 2 years i have gone through about 25yards or so. And my flippin stick is the only heavy action rod i have so it pulls quadruple duty as a flippin stick, deep crankbait rod, swimbait, and northen pike rod. The revo winch holds 180 yards of 12lb line so i use 20 yards of backing and put all 150 yards of 50lb on.

Depending on the weight of the bait, the rating on the rod, the wind, the distance im trying to cast, and the aerodynamics of the lure i usually use 2 on and then just adjust the mag brakes. My point is that there are alot of factors that go into what i think i need for brakes. J/K In all reality if you dont need them dont use them. When you start throwing lighter baits it helps.

I asked that a little while ago and got a lot of the same repsponses. I went with 30lb sufix 832. I only went with 30lb over 15 or 20 because i already had a spool of it. I will be using fluoro leader though in the 10-20lb range depending on conditions.

off to cabelas I go...d**n you baitmonkey Edit: Its not on sale...thats just its price...

I'll be the third to say kahara speed clips. come in 5 sizes and are easy to open and close.

There a lot of videos on exactly how to take apart the reel, lube it, and reassemble the reel. If you have more specific questions we will gladly answer them. Good luck.

I have used invisx and i liked for the most part. The pluses were the usual with fluoro and i never lost a fish even when they dove into the lilypads. It was 12lb and it was strong enough to keep them pinned while i plowed over to get them. The negative was that it stretched like a rubberband. When i caught my pb smallie i cast out a t-rig a good 35yards and he hit it right away. I reeled down and felt him with the rod tip way out in front of me and swung for the fences... And i swear i didnt even move the hook in his mouth. I had to reel down and try again. So this year im using p-line fluorocarbon. If you have the money i would recommend trying some sunline shooter.

It seems that way to me... I'd like to think i can tie an alberto knot in 20-30 seconds. And as you stated previously i agree that every knot neexs to be your best knot. But that one never gives me any trouble. San diego jam and even the palomar with fluorocarbon always takes me awhile to make sure it good.

My reason for the heavier line is that some of the waters i will be throwing them in is going to be shared with walleye, northerns, and muskie so i want the thicker line to prevent breakoffs crom the teeth. The main rod i will be using is strung with 30lb sufix 832 and a 20lb sunline leader. I have 8lb seaguar invisx, 12lb p-line 100% fluoro, 12lb yo-zuri, and also 20lb p-line cxx for leaders. On the side lakes without a high probability of toothy critters i will use a rod with 12lb yo-zuri.

Thank you that answers a lot of questions. Now one more for all you guys that fish jerkbaits. How deep do you want them to go in relation to the bottom? I.e. 4ft jerkbait for 6-8ft of water? Or 10 ft je4kbait for 15-20 ft of water? Do you ever fish a shallow one in deep water or do you ever ride the bottom?

Easier yes... But, for me, more time consuming. I will try it but i dont use microguides so i will continue to use the alberto knot.