Kevin22

That is going to cost you some day. Seen plenty of boats laying on the ramp with 4-5 guys heaving on them trying to get them to the water.

You are on the right track. Impossible to tell if there is a problem since the boat is new to you. Only thing you can do is check again after running it for a few hours and see if its back. Who knows, the previous owner might have NEVER changed it. I know people like that.. .

I've thrown a weightless super fluke jr (1/8oz maybe?) on a H rod once when I was on a bluegill bite around wood. Wasnt' the easiest to cast, but it was possible..

The model will be etched into the side of the prop. The size will be on the hub inside of the prop. Should say something like 14X21, two numbers with an X in the middle or a number with a P after it.. like 21P. That tells you the size of the hub and the pitch of the prop.

Pflueger trion and president 10's, 20's, 25's. Shimano sienna 1000 and and sedona 1000. Out of all of them, the trion has been the best. I had a run of pfluegers wearing out so I switched to shimanos and they barely lasted 3 seasons and are all on their last leg. My original trions from 10 years ago are still going strong, as is the one I bought two years ago.

I use the first style, made my own with the same design. 100% so far this year. Lost one last year that was wedged in chunk limestone rip-rap.

What prop is on it?

I replaced my TM with a maxxum 70 a while back which is just 24v so had no use for the 12/24 system, excess wires were annoying. yes you just build a box flush with the deck. I am going to make mine with a lifting door on the side and use it as storage.

Yeah, that's what they mean.

Its worth about $5000. +-500 depending on what has been upgraded (sounds like nothing). The 12/24 was a big thing in the 90's. They have a 3 wire system and a switch on the TM where you can run it off of 12V (one battery) or 24V (both batteries). My boat was set up that way and I ripped out the third wire and upgraded to a straight 24V TM. When he recarpeted it, did he extend the front deck to be equal to the rod locker/console? That's a big upgrade. That is set up very similar to my ranger and I plan to make that upgrade when I recarpet it this winter.

Depends on the bulb. If they used an OEM merc bulb it is for 5/16 AND 3/8. The clamps keep the 3/8 snug as long as they used good clamps. They might have put a cheap bulb on, which could be causing your issues. Make sure they didn't use a tempo bulb, those are pure junk. Make sure everything has metal hose clamps, nothing should have zip ties or plastic clamps. These are the best style IMO http://www.amazon.com/AAS-Fuel-Injection-Clamps-FI8/dp/B0040CU0JA/ref=pd_sbs_263_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=31fDH7TFBsL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=01S701DM80JMBKCVJ3C9

Should be at least 5/16. Merc uses 5/16 for almost all motors.

Prop wont cause the bow to go up. Bow going up is your motor tilted too far up. Trim it all the way down, and if it still wont get up on plane then you have issues. Motor height or prop.

Quick electrical question.. I have a battery without a charger bank on it (starting) which also has my livewell pumps and would like to hook up an onboard to it. Instead of running wires all over my boat it would be way simpler to buy a 1 bank charger for it. If needed, on a trip, would I be safe to run both chargers at once on a 12/3 triple output extension cord?

With them all being roughly the same, I doubt there is an issue. It was probably user error. I've never compression tested the 50 three banger but generally you want the throttle at WOT, no choke, and turn it over 10-12 times or until it stops building pressure. Having two people is handy, one to watch the gauge and tell you when its maxed out and the other to crank it.

I noticed that with fluke. I subbed years ago because he was a regular guy teaching the world to fish. He made a point in several videos that he is not sponsored and doesn't want to to be sponsored, and he doesn't fish tournaments, all because he wants to be unbiased and share his knowledge. Now he raves about his alumacraft boat (on their pro staff), has a deck full of 13 rods and no 8 gear (sponsored), and every video is about some sort of product endorsement with a small-how to in it. The last few have been decent though. But still, whenever someone asks a "what rod to use" question it used to be answered with "find a 7'MH rod that you like...", now its "go buy a no 8 blackout and a thirteen reel.

I looked into making my own but decided it wasnt worth the time. I buy them from KDS. They are thinner than a standard rod glove but I like that.. I use them for ease of removing rods in rod locker, not for protection so the thinner shell is less weight on my stacked rods. They usually sell them for $4 each in the "grab bag" format, as in you cant choose a color. Again.. they are in my rod locker, I don't care what color they are. With shipping they usually come out to less than $5 each depending on quantity.

As far as a bass fishing approach I think you are trying to re-invent the wheel. I don't think it would ever be marketable for bass anglers, we simply carry too much tackle. Instead, I would switch gears towards trout and wading fishermen. for most of us bass fishermen, a backpack works well. You can carry 3-4 3700 series boxes or just a few baits and plastics with hardly any weight. The issue with a backpack is you have to set it down to get into it, which this product solves but 99% of the time I have a place to set the backpack down and get what I need. For wading fishermen, you can't set the backpack down. The other two "competition" items are the creel (basket or purse that is held over the shoulder and holds gear/fish) and the vest. I HATE wearing my vest when its hot out, and I hate having something over my shoulder. Your product has merit here. You could make two versions I would imagine, one to hold spinners and small lures, and the other to hold jarred bait and terminal tackle/live bait. Yes, bass fishermen wade too! I do it quite a bit actually.. but I don't think there are enough wading bass fishermen that would be interested in the product to make it marketable. Maybe as a custom hobby/business, but not as a mass marketable item. Maybe 1% of bass fishermen wade, but 90% of trout fishermen wade... one has a market, the other doesnt IMO.

I have been using my elite 4 and 5 chirps in <10 water and have had no issues at all. BUT I have noticed lately the high chirp seems to clutter the screen in shallow water so I use 83khz on flat bottoms and 200khz in weeds/drop offs.

I think a vast majority, if not all, of the current production sonar units have a simulation mode. But most are very lacking and are just for changing cosmetic and user features. It takes quite a bit of time on the water marking actual structure and fish to really get a full grasp of what a sonar can do.

Both look like just what you need. Don't be fooled by the stratos speed, there's no way that boat is going 65 with the 150. should run a solid 52-53 though. The Nitro will run 40-45. Might make a difference in a tourney, don't know. I personally would choose the newer nitro over the old stratos.

Sounds fine. Your bird is reading voltage off your alternator. My merc outputs 13.7V so 14.0-14.2 sounds like you have a great alternator! 13V is a fully charged 12V battery. Everything is correct. Good choice going to nuts instead of wingnuts, much better connections!

My mercury book. 96# dry. i guess with lube and oil it would be more.

You can also use a flat eye jig and a split ring. That'll work though, that's how the original chatterbait was invented...

I assume we are talking about the starcraft? You're off a tiny bit I think The motor weighs 96# trailer is pretty close, probably closer to 150# on that style. Batteries are 40# EACH Your TM is about 30-40#. Seats are included in boat dry-weight. Total weight should be about 1200# with full tank, plus fishing gear.