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Kevin22

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Everything posted by Kevin22

  1. Just a guy who took off the merc decal for whatever reason. Might be overpowered (ie a 150 on a 120max hp boat).
  2. My opinion on it is this.. A co-angler should always offer up some gas money to the boater. The boater should never accept!
  3. Choose your braid for the cover you are going to fish, not the size of the fish. Honestly speaking most of the fish I catch are 12-13" but that doesn't mean I'll be throwing 20# braid into laydowns any time soon. Open water- 30# Sparse weeds -40-50# Thick matted weeds- 50-65# Wood- 65#
  4. Late to the party, but I'll give my experiences. One lake here gets real tanic late fall (surrounded by oak trees). Anything white or gold lights up like a light bulb.
  5. A mix of a t-rig and a wacky rig pro senko. Just like the bottom picture, you T-rig the fat straight one and the other is wacky rigged at the same time.
  6. Don't forget the hour drive to the lake (with a breakfast stop) and a hour trip home (with a dinner stop). Plus likely 3 hours of it being overtime. Better just call it an even 2 grand added to the price.
  7. Definitely a 12" worm.
  8. Just a bright "fish" color. Could be a bluegill, a perch, anything really. Its more of a reaction strike color, fish see the bright color and movement/rattles and hit it. Great in dirty water.
  9. Throw a senko in those pockets. Even into the deep water. I've caught fish in a pond similar to that in 18' of water in the middle of the pond on a senko. My PB actually.
  10. Alright.... lure them in with a finesse worm then drop a nightcrawler on its nose.
  11. zipper grub?
  12. 832 is my favorite, by far.
  13. Put some 6# sufix 832 (comparable to 10# power pro) on that sucker and you are good to go. 6-8# fluoro leader if necessary. 6# sufix 832 breaks at 1# heavier than power pro 10# and is the same diameter, just a FYI so you don't think I'm nuts suggesting 6# braid.
  14. I use rod gloves and the knockoff ones on ebay. I use them in the rod locker in the boat to keep the rods from tangling. When I take a rod out I strip the glove and toss the glove back into the rod locker.
  15. Shad raps work good. We use them for walleye and catch a ton of bass on them in the process. Actually when I'm casting for walleye I make sure to not get within 10' of shore to limit the amount of bass caught. So, yes, bass love those things! Try the shallow version, or just put it on a 14# mono and it won't go deeper than 6 feet... if you can cast it. If you want an alternative for dirty water, try the berkley flicker shads. They have nearly the same action but are plastic with rattles. Also half the price.
  16. Target casting lipless. Would work good for 1.5-2.5 square bills if you are trying to get them into some tight spots, but I prefer a 7-7'4 for square bills.
  17. kvd 1.5 series 1 bomber square a
  18. You are in Wisconsin, you do not have spotted bass. That is a largemouth.
  19. http://www.humminbird.com/Products/PC-10/
  20. Start contacting different plastics pourers and see if the can get the mold.
  21. I've had much more success with a steady retrieve letting it bounce over cover. Also had great success with speeding up when it hits cover. I can count the number of fish I've caught on the pause on one hand. Of course I am using the KVD 1.5 which has the built in hunting action. When that thing touches a branch or rock it bounces off and deflects which looks just like a baitfish leaving the brush. If you pause when hitting the structure it just stops and floats up. Sometimes they want that, but the fish here have played that game. They like the more natural look of the fleeing baitfish over the "here's an easy meal" baitfish.
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