gulfcaptain

If it's fiberglass, go buy some resin and make a hot batch and dab it on to seal it. Might set you back about $15 for a quart and it will hold up better then fingernail polish. West Marine also makes a resin as well as a fiberglass powder thicking additive. If you use their's make sure you get the quick cure.

I would say 99% of the time it's user error. I have only broke 3 rods, one after 10yrs of service and it was a CalStar Saltwater jigstick. Wasn't so mad about the rod exploding into 4 pieces bouncing a 3lb bonito over the rail, more upset about the AFTCO Lightweight roller guides that went into the water with 2 of the pieces. The other 2 were both the same blanks, and both broke in the same places. I found out one of them they changed their blank design and the other well an X-fast Flipping stick wasn't up to my style of fishing and decided to swap to a different action and brand. But is it the rods fault, well no as I push my tackle to the limits at times. The only one that was rod defect was the one they changed design, happened to have a weak spot in the middle of the blank.

Thanks Dwight, still haven't learned how to link a page on here onto a reply.

Deep water access all depends on the lake itself. If its a shallow lake say less then 20ft, it could be a flat that runs 3-4ft and drops off to 7, or a steep bank that has 40ft depth 30ft off the bank with a small ledge thats' in 8ft of water. So access to deepwater could be as little as a 3ft depth change or a 30ft drop off. More important to me is how the baitfish or forage base relate and hold in the area I'm looking to fish.

I would use a backpack or waste pack. Have a waste pack that holds 4 3600 size boxes which I normally carry 2 of, a smaller utility box with weights and hooks, and finally a soft binder for what baits I may want extra. Being around my waiste lets me also put 1-2 rods slipped between and stored behind my back out of the way.

You could bump up to 15lb braid and then I would add about 6ft of 12lb FC. Did you pull the hook or break them off? If you're fishing 8lb with 10lb braid and only a 2ft leader, you don't have any stretch whatsoever. May need to back you're drag way off to compensate for the lack of stretch.

Matt has a post/link to an ultimate blue gill in a post "need help wih hard swimbait". I would hit him up and ask him for advice if it's giving you problems.

Triple Fish or Maxima. But all mono is going to have stretch to it no matter what the brand is. Only other suggestion is to put a longer topshot of mono on one of your braid set ups....like about 25ft. This way you have some stretch but won't have too much on the longer casts.

Hey Matt, is that the U2 or the original series?

FC sinks so you will get a little depth there. More to do with dia of the line you're fishing. The heavier the line the more drag it inccurs causing less depth. I would say 10lb FC will probably give you the depth you are looking to achieve from your crankbaits.

Have a digital Rapala scale. (25lbs) Haven't had any issues with it and have used it since Dec. Still on the same battery as well. Think it might have been $29.99

I agree with WRB, everyone has their preferences on what they fish. Some spend a fortune on their rod, others find a rod that fits what they are looking to do. As for me, I choose to fish an IM6 rod since I prefer to fish topshots of mono or fc and prefer the softer action IM6 has. As for what brand, well use a BPS Graphite Musky Rod in a 7'6"MH as well as the H action. But that's my preference and fits my fishing style and the requirements and spec's of what I was looking for.

Honest advice, I would save and buy the upgraded unit/units you want. I would probably save up and get the Gen2 HDS-7 with structure scan. I'd save up and pay a little extra and have a bigger screen, this way if you wanted to move to a 9" or larger unit you could put this one up front. And with the different views, the bigger the screen the easier it is considering you could have 3 screens up at one time so looking on a 5" screen split up isn't going to be that big of a display. Hope this helps a bit.

Also tried the spinshot's and I don't think I have lost a fish on one yet. I like them in the size 1-2 and like the set up. Makes switching weight lenghts much easier as well as being able to use a lighter line going to the weight especially in some nastier areas as so I have a break away sinker using cheaper sinkers then the dropshot weights. And they don't seem to take away from the baits (Keitech swing and live impact) action.

I'm still waiting for the Betencort Dying Bluegill to be in stock....that thing's action is wicked looking.

I'm hoping the bait monkey is like the tooth fairy and magically 2 EXO's I want will appear under my pillow....

Did you happpen to clean your reel lately yourself and possibly take all the grease out and out of that gear. Also where that little tooth that rides that gear, look and see if it's loose, if you took it apart, is it straight and lined up in the groove? I have had one that stuck every now and then and a simple piece of plastic (think it came from a crankbait package) inserted in the bottom of the holder to bring the tooth up just a bit fixed it. You might be able to take it to a reel repair place and have them fix it. If it's missing a piece then it's gonna take some time for them to get it. Check all the above first incase it is one of those.

I'd rather look a bit "goofy" as some has told me. Rather be teased about my clothing then deal with the pain of that nice sunburn.

Thats the worm gear. You should be able to look underneath and see where the little piece that rides that gear gos. It may be loose which would cause it to slip and not ride up in the groove or it may be worn out. Take it into BPS and see if they have that piece so you can get it fixed since it is their reel.

May not be letting them take it all in. You could try putting a small screw in eye in the back but it may ruin the action of the bait.

Yeah, I invested in some sun gear from SIMMS a couple years ago and use it religously anytime I'm gonna be out in the sun as well as one of those full brim hats and a good quality pair of sunglasses. I preach the same thing to my 9yr old, have gotten him a few shirts to wear fishing that are SPF 50 as well as a neck gaiter. My only complaint I have is I can't find any of the sleeves they make or any of SIMM's sungear for kids. But always have a can of SPF 50 in the trunk for the legs when wearing shorts and for my face as well as my boy. Only time I have been sunburned since I bought all this....the day I went to Seaworld....but my son had on his long sleeve shirt I have for him and was fine. Just wished I had one of mine on as well.

When you get bit are you reacting to the pressure or the splash of the fish attacking the bait?

If you're really into learning more about the bigger swimbaits, honestly I would get a copy of Southern Trout Eaters DVD and watch it. Gives lots of tips and answers quite a few questions about the bigger swimbaits. And Tackle Warehouse has the DVD's. Good advice on Hudds, MC Slammers, Triple Trout, different rat style baits, and also the Bull Shads.

Um, did anyone think to do this at night when all the little bas#@$ds are sleeping. It's just like wasps, you can't attack the nest in the day because there will always be wasps out roaming for food. Foggers work great, just like a grenade, set it off and toss it into the bush (AT NIGHT). Or use some of that high dollar wasp and hornet spray but do it in the dark when they are sleeping. Or you can do like everyone else said, hire someone.

I would suggest this. As long as you can get the bait back Mend-it does wonders on putting them back together and saving you money as well as being able to get a couple more fish out of each bait.