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gulfcaptain

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Everything posted by gulfcaptain

  1. Did they go on the reel the same way it went off the spool, or did you just wind it on with it loose on the floor? If it didn't go on the same way it came off you're going to get twists and it wil become a problem. Also, did the line feel smooth when you were putting it on? If it felt rough, could have been old line from the store. Did it happen right away when you first used it or did it sit on your reels for a few weeks before you went fishing? If it sat for a while, the line could have gotten some memory from sitting too long causing the coils. Possibly fixed if you ran it out behind the boat with nothing attached and then reeled it back in to help straighten it.
  2. Fair enough. I went on 12ft vs 8ft for $100 difference. 4ft can be a big difference. The quicker deploy and retraction, no hydros, electrical deployment, and a manual retraction if something happens where I don't have to get in the water to raise it up.
  3. This on a spinning or casting gear? What pound line, and how old was the line (prior to putting it on the reel)?
  4. I'm not claiming one is better then the other. Stated the difference. Hudds are more less a visual bait. I wouldn't use one in muddy murky water....there are better options. Fishing for bass that are keyed in on a visual presentation and tend to "follow" the baits. I have yet to see a trout follow a swimshad in a trout pattern. But have watched them swim with hudds and follow them and try and school with them. Now small swimbaits will get shad and glass minnows to follow them (at least on an A-rig) but it's the details Ken puts into the baits. I believe the 8" Hudd has accounted for more +10lb fish in CA (probably other states as well) then any other bait consistantly. I'll throw a $24 bait in hopes of getting that 1-2 bites a day and possibly a 10lb fish. But I will also fish packaged boot style smaller swimbaits as well when conditions are right. If you haven't fished them and seen the success of the Hudd then it's hard to form a real opinon on it other then cost.
  5. I used Global Fish Mounts to make a replica of an old skin mount I had. I gave them the lengh and girth along with some photos of the old mount and they did a great job. They use a program to paint the replica the same colors as the fish in the photo. I'd look at contacting them. btw, welcome to BR and the forums.
  6. To each their own. Difference in a swimshad and a Hudd is the detail and realism and their tail action. West Coast style swimbaits aren't for everyone.
  7. Did you ever look at a Talon? Not knocking Power Poles, just was in the same boat as you looking for a good shallow water anchor system and went this route and got a 12ft with the laydown bracket (so I can stow it in a horizontal position when traveling or low overhangs such as the garage when storing).
  8. Like both of these as well, but tend to look at glide baits in a different bracket then swimbaits. But do like the 168's and the 68 specials (ROF 12's)
  9. I'd say if you're looking to get into the 8" baits, pick up a Savage Gear Line Thru. Less money then the Hudd, but gets bit well. Now if you're going to be fishing water temps in the 40's, then the Hudd will produce better as it has less action and just the suttle tail kick. The BBZ's are good, but the Line Thru will give you almost the same action but in a soft bait. But be warned, big swimbait fishing is addictive once you get that first fish and relize how small an 8" bait is when you see them choke it. Its not always a big numbers bait, you're fishing for a few bites on quality fish. Most will be 4+lbs and up. (my average swimbait fish is right about 6.5lbs)
  10. I like a softer rod, but one with enough tip to drag the bait and a lot has to do with how heavy a jig I'm using. For footbaill jigs around 3/8oz I tend to fish on a 7' or 7'2" med-fast action rod. If I'm fishing heavier then 1/2oz jig I'll step up and use a 7'3" to 7'6"MH fast action rod which will have a bit more stiffness to them but not be too stiff.
  11. Hopefully not anymore. Weld, looking forward to seeing a few more pictures of the fish you're going to catch while you're in FL. Once again, congrats on your fish. May have to try the fast sink version of the 6" Line Thru.
  12. I know one line that used to get used quite often in light line situations which held up good was Stren's Magna Thin. When I worked in a tacklestore we went through quite a bit of that and it worked well on spinning reels. Just happened to remember. Also quite strong, held up well, and was manageable. Most liked it in the 4 & 5lb size since they were fishing trout.
  13. Short answer.....yes. 30lb braid is strong enough to do a lot of things with. I've punched and flipped with it and use it for frog fishing. You shouldn't have any problems.
  14. When I used to fish Andes, from what I recall it was "soft" and would stretch quite a bit, and memory was bad on it. The IGFA line is low stretch but breaks at or right below it's rating.
  15. I use 20lb P-Line CXX leader (6-8ft) tied to 30-40lb braid depending on the combo I'm fishing it on.
  16. Once again, I believe Bluebasser and myself weren't discussing small package swimbaits. A swimming fluke(small paddletail baits) and a 6-10" swimbait aren't the same baits. Big baits such as hudds and line thru's are visual presentations. They cue in on a natural suttle swimming action or in my case looking visually for stocked trout (where I'm located) that are swimming slowly and make for easy targets. A hudd or line thru that spins doesn't have a "natural" suttle action. You're not fast cranking these, you're slowly swiming them and if they don't swim right, spin and lay on their sides, or role you aren't getting the right presentation. If your crankbait roles, the bill breaks, or constantly blows out are you going to continue to fish it? No, it must run correctly to be productive. Once again, I can care less what the tail of a swimming fluke or any other small 3-4" paddletail bait. Not even in the same class or presentation as a big swimbait. If you really want to have this discussion, post it and ask other memebers why large swimbaits need to swim correctly and not role, spin, blowout, or swim on their sides.
  17. Any of the 6" baits I prefer the 12ROF's. Just run better and less likely to role. And hook preference, I have both weedless and the top hook. No stinger hooks or bottom hooks on these. The 8" baits get BB rigged and have one with a belly hook (standard j hook) and stinger and another with a stinger in the top just in front of the tail connected to the BB rig hook.
  18. Lol, don't get me lying. I'm not real sure.
  19. Think it was this years if I'm not mistaken. The way they air them it can get confusing.
  20. Not to hijack his post, but for me large swimbaits such as the Line Thru's and Hudds or any of the other larger swimbaits (not refering to paddletails and hollowbelly baits that you add a hook or put on a leadhead) the baits are supposed to swim straight, and the suttle action of the bait is what makes them appealing. And as I was typing this Bluebasser beat me to the main point of why.
  21. Welcome to the forums, what part of S. Cal?
  22. Yep, it's a Managuense Cichlid. They are mean little fish. Kinda rank up there with Red Devils in agression.
  23. Slow sink or floater?
  24. Nice fish. Could never get that 6" to run correctly so gave up on that size Line Thru. Looks like the dirty silver color.
  25. I see, just circle the question and bail on the answer. I want to know which you prefer.....lol not that you get to go fishing and like them all.
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