Hogsticker

YES

Seems like a good ultimate decision to buy a reel or not. I believe the paint on the Tatula looks pretty glossy.

I think it's gonna be a work horse reel for sure. It should have impressive casting distance due to the new TWS design. It should sell like crazy unless there is some type of flaw in the design or mechanical issues. From TT it seems pretty solid. I as dead set on getting one until I discovered the frame is even wider than the Lexa. I got rid of my HSTA because it was too wide for my small hands. I will have to hold one 1st for sure, maybe mount it on a rod. The weight of 8 ounces is kind of a yeah or meh thing. I'm more interested in the type R. I'll wait till people get some time on the water with them before I pull the trigger.

Finesse jigs 1/8 to 3/16 get 7 lb. Sufix Fluoro Shakey heads 3/16 to 1/4 get 8 lb. Sufix Fluoro Football heads 1/2 to 5/8 get 12 lb. Sufix Fluoro

Braid on any presentation where keeping your line tight is critical. Zero stretch will afford a lot more feeling with a tight line than fluoro which is usually somewhere in the neighborhood of 13-14% stretch. While jigging for walleye, you can get away with fluoro IF you know whats going on down there. Walleye expel a jig as soon as they feel the weight in there mouth. They have it mastered. The big ones, like big bass just suck it in so you really need to know if your feeling a different sensation of have some added weight at the end of your line. You have to be quick and braid helps me with all that. Mono - No Way. Some of the smaller fish will slap at it and you may feel that tick, but they to will spit it right out. Use what works for you, but this is the 1st time I've heard about feeling more bottom contact with fluoro over braid. Any type of technique where you dragging something along the bottom, jigging (should have your line tight IMO), swimming something just above bottom, or ripping a bait through weeds, braid really shines for me. Fluoro on one designated weightless wacky worm rod for me.

If your going to use a swivel you can't use too much or you can't cast. Swivels don't go through guides well. Use the Alberto knot and tie on as much fluoro you think you may go through in a day (re-ties). Then again, if you break off at the connection knot it doesn't really matter anyways - So tie a great knot the 1st time!

The combo ratings apply to the rod. Not really anything you can do to the reel to make it throw lighter baits any better. Reels with lighter spools that are more finesse oriented are going to run quite a bit more than a black max. You could try to flush the spool bearings and spool up some thin braid, 8-10 lb. test. This may help a bit

If you're using a leader it doesn't really matter what's on the spool it, does it? Braid with a leader or straight all day every day for this guy.

Bobs fishing hole? If you can't travel to far from the ramp it seems your options are fairly limited to begin with. This one is a head scratcher. Was I just punked?

Fluoro is an interesting animal. Most of these somewhat brittle lines will snap if you try to lift or move a fish by pulling on the line. Could this have been part of the problem? Well that and Vanish is pretty terrible.

There ya go

I agree. Much more fun to play a fish, and a better chance of not pulling hooks clean out of his/her mouth. I've actaully found heavier pound original Power Pro digs more than the lighter stuff. Meh, what do I know.

30 lb. has a diameter of .28, 50 is .36. That's substantial enough for me if concerned about line visibility. If you get your jig snagged under a rock with 30 lb. test braid and yard on it, your rod is going to break before the line does. 50 is over kill in any open water to moderate cover conditions. I could understand if fishing serious to severe cover, but when your not forced to button down your drag and can actually use it to your advantage, I see no need for such heavy line. I use 10 and 20 lb. for most all applications without problem. Just my 2 cents

Listen to this guy. He knows his stuff.

Don't listen to the negative comments. Performance braid in 10 lb. test is heads and shoulders above every other 10 lb. test braid I've used, and I've used a lot including 832. It may not be an 8 strand, but it is as smooth and supple as they come. Every 8 strand brand I've used did the same thing - Fray. Performance braid does not. It doesn't bleed any worse than any other braid, a lot less than many actually. It's not at all noisy like original Power Pro, and it is very abrasion resistant. 832 may sink a little better, but the difference is extremely minimal - extremely. It doesn't sink anything like a fluorocarbon. The line only gets better with use. The gore in 832 also makes it a little "jumpy" in comparison. P.B is the best I've used in light test. It doesn't dig (Power Pro), it doesn't jump and flows flat and smooth (832), it doesn't fray every time you cut it (Super Slick 8), it's not noisy (FX2, Power Pro). 832 and Stren Sonic Braid would be my 2nd choice, but you can get a 100 yard spool of this stuff for 11 bucks. Plenty to fill one reel with some equivilant diameter mono backing. After you use the line for one season simply reverse it and your good for another season. I've been using braid on all my gear with the exception of one reel that gets fluoro for slack line presentations going on 12 years now. Performance braid is my line of choice.

0 stretch 100% of the time. The ONLY time I'm not using braid is with weightless plastics as fluoro does offer better slack line sensitivity. When I'm trolling I know exactly what my bait is doing at all times. If I pick up a leaf, grass, whatever, I instantly know. I throw spinner baits with it, lipless and billed cranks, jerk baits - The key is having the right action rod, and correct diameter braid. I can throw further with it, it's harder to backlash (and easier to dig out), and it lasts a very long time. The best thing about braid - It has no memory! I see no other reason to use anything else. My OPINION of course!!

The E's are not going to be discontinued as stated above. New reel is just another Chronarch type to add to the list of many.

7.6 - 7.8

Here is my best of the best - 5/8 oz. - Yo Zuri Rattlin Vibe. Great for deeper open water. Very tight vibration and casts like a beast 1/2 oz. - Rapala Rattlin Rap. Cheap and a total fish catcher. I have caught more fish on this than any other. Can't put my finger on it, but it flat works. 3/8 oz. - Spro Aruku Shad JR. - Perfect for ripping over weeds, great hardware and a great price. All have several color options

Try using a lighter rattle bait and thinner diameter braided line

The Ballistic is better suited for heavier, larger, deeper cranks IMO. The Diesel can handle square bills to rattle baits, mid size jerk baits and cranks that weigh around 5/8 - 3/4, and dive up to 18 feet are right in it's wheel house IMO. Pretty versatile stick for being glass. Feels much lighter than the Ballistic too. If it helps any I have a Diesel cranker I'd sell ya for 50 bucks shipped. I just have to get my hands on a tube to ship it in. Rod has never been used (double).

TWS means T-Wing System, but you could certainly throw top water baits with it

Improved clinch knot and the palomar work well for me. Thinner more supple braids are easier to tie with a palomar IMO. Thicker lines I use the improved clinch. Never had a problem with both.

I agree with this statement 100%. The Savvy is no bueno for bottom contact. Great rod for moving baits, super well balanced. Lighter rods balance better with a 50 size reel. Recons and Cumaras would fit well in your price range. The Omens and Powell Max/Endurance balance better with the 100 size IMO.

I sure did get a chuckle out of that, but I'm sure you didn't!