Hogsticker

Cheaper components. Lower grade blanks. If the guides are steel with no ceramic inserts I would take a pass. Just my thoughts.

Not made in the U.S - China or Korea, I can't remember

Spool up 50 yards of 8 lb. mono backing and get yourself a 100 yd. spool of 10-12 lb. Sufix fluoro (the new stuff). Rarely do I base any purchase from reviews, but the ones you will find are spot on. 11 bucks for this stuff is a straight deal. Best handling fluoro I have come across. Flows from the spool clean, lays flat, ties wonderful knots, and above average abrasion resistance. I would rate the amount of stretch somewhere between Invisx and Sniper - Perfect for cranks IMO. I like it almost as much as Tatsu at 1/3 the expense.

Nicely done. Looks clean. What did you pull that cast control cap from, a Core? What kind of line is that, 832 Ghost?

I always use a snap on my rattle baits, cranks, and jerk baits. Fishing for trout in 17 degree cold weather, ya BETTER bring the snaps. I like the Basspro brand snaps and and the Kahara quick lock snaps. The Duo Lock snaps came open while smallies were taking mid flight a few times, and they are weak, bend out of shape to the point you can't get them to work right.

You should leave the split ring on, and attach the snap to that. It won't make a rattle bait "vibe" any less.

I had a 6'10 Med. Just sold it. It had no problems picking up that vibration from a rattle bait. I was using braid and the rod felt a little to tight in the tip for me. Enough backbone though. I think it would make a better spinnerbait rod, fluke/senko, light jigging up to 3/8 oz. It wasn't the reel seat that bugged me, rather how thin the handle grip was. A bit awkward. I kept one that will be my primary senko stick

Made differently in different Countries

Zillion 6'6 MH with a Fuego, polished, TDZ100 spool, carbon drag, and 7's in the spool. / Spinnerbait set up 1/4 to 1/2 Cumara 6'3 MH with a Scorpion 1001XT. / Jerk baits 1/4 to 1/2 Kistler KLX 6'9 MH CRT with a with a TDZ 100ML / Lipless cranks 1/4 to 5/8 13 *** Black 6'10 M with a Curado 51E (tuned), wacky Senkos Powell Max 683C MH with a BPS Carbonlite Gold, ABEC 5s, Walleye jigging set up. I've been telling myself 5 is it, but I think I'm gonna need a new CH Ci4+ and put it on a topwater rod.

Unless you wanna drop some bread into a casting reel, or plan on throwing at the bear minimum 1/4 oz. weights - You will want a spinning set up. Light to ultra light casting rod (well good ones) ain't to cheap either.

GRUBS!!! The smallest weight football head you can get away with while maintaining bottom contact, and a good old grub!! Hop it, drag it, swim it. Grubs, Senkos of all varities, and some R2S standin yabbies and I'm set! Now if you look inside my jerk bait box it's a whole different story!

I'm most excited about the Yamamoto brand of hard baits! Can't wait to try that jerk bait!!

Shimano knobs will fit the Okuma handles? I hope this is the case. If it is I'm gonna have to get the new Helios Air. Your post must be a sign. Not a fan of EVA grips.

I have yet to find a reel that fits and impresses me as much as my TDZs / Fuegos. They were just special IMO. I think the Core and Steez lead the pack, but the 50 size Shimanos CU/CH/Scorpion are really sweet little reels. I'm less than impressed with materials being utilized moving forward. Not to question the use of carbon being used, but it just doesn't feel right - Not yet anyways. I'm looking forward to handling a new Chronarch Ci4+. If you look inside a Steez there is a lot of metal opposed to plastic commonly found. Is it worth the price tag? User decision I suppose. I like Daiwa of old, Shimano of newer (HEG gearing). Even the HSTA was a super solid reel, just a little big to palm.

Surprised nobody has mentioned the new Daiwa Tatula. Priced right at 150 bucks. 50 dollars more I would consider the Tatula Type R and Chronarch E. I think both these reels will lead the pack at this price point, and both are built to be lasting work horse type reels. Lews are nice out of the box, but I still question long term durability of any reels that come out of that same factory. All the positive reviews I've read on Lews and Revo 3s have been written within the 1st month of use. I've been coming across more and more longevity issues regarding both reels as of late. Just my 2 cents of course.

Other dealers state the left handed models will not be available for shipping until mid. November.

It just handles better than any other fluoro I've tried including, Sniper, Abrazx, PLine 100%, and a couple others. I think it's from the precision winding. Reviews at *** are spot on, which is rare. It is a little thicker than some fluoros, but it is super abrasion resistant, strong, and ties great knots. I have the 5, 7, and 10 lb. tests

I don't understand how braid can be considered stiffer than mono or fluoro. 10 and even 20 lb. braid has a thinner diameter than any 8 lb. test mono/fluoro line on the market. Plus, it has no memory so it's super limp. I understand some non 8 carrier braids are somewhat stiff, but stiffer than mono?

Daiwa and Lews won't fit a Shimano. Semper Fi has really nice handles at reasonable prices, even on Fleabay. You can use the handle knobs off your Core. Same with the nut and nut retainer, however you can get anodized parts from Semper Fi as well. Make sure you get 4 bearings as well if you need them.

I love a line that doesn't have any memory. Braid means less headaches at the end of the day. Downsize diameter if your concerned about visibility and don't want to use a leader. 10 lb. braid is as thin as 3 lb. mono. I never have slippage issues with a palomar knot.

Yes you will! Zero stretch = amazing sensitivity!!

Hybrid actually is not a fluoro coated nylon. It's both fluoro and nylon bonded together (mostly nylon). P Line fluoroclear is a coated nylon line. I would actually use Hybrid before Invisx. Personally I think Invizx is way to stretchy. Even more so than a lot of pure nylon lines. Invisx does handle very well, but the extra stretch kinda defeats the purpose of a fluoro IMO. If I'm concerned about visibility I just down size to a smaller diameter line. If you want a great fluoro that won't break the bank, try the NEW improved Sufix. It's outstanding. I like it more than Sniper.

Every company sets and indicates a little different gear ratio. 6 to something, or 7 something in general. I know you said IPT aside, but that's the number I pay attention to. For most applications I find 28" to be as close to perfect as it gets with "most" general presentations.

Unless you are fishing heavy cover or structure, let the fish run! Where's it going to go? Usually deeper water because it feels safer. As long as you have a good hook set it doesn't matter. I run braid on 90% of my gear, and I know for a fact that when a big largie or smallie gets air born and starts shaking it's head like a violent maniac, you are in trouble! A big fish is gonna go where it wants to, and if that drag is buttoned down the hooks will rip right out of it's face. I've seen it to many times as my heart went into my throat. I keep my rod tip up and let the drag do it's work, always keeping tension on the line. I'm always watching my for my line to rise so I know when that fish is about to break the surface. This is the only time my rod tips drops, then back up, pressure on the fish, let the drag do it's job. I've tried it both ways, and landed way more fish utilizing my drag. Think about it like this. So you got the fish turned toward you coming your direction. When that fish gets close enough to the boat/bank and sees you, what happens? It makes a very sharp, quick turn and runs away. If that drag is to tight, when it turns and takes of - well, bye bye. It's also impossible to know for certain if you got a solid hook set, and if the hooks are buried or just skin hooked. I'd much rather take my chances playing and easing the fish my way using my drag than trying to drag it in. I'm pretty sure any salmon or steelhead angler will share these same thoughts.

Qulaity of materials my friend, just as with anything else. In the end, it only depends on what it's worth to you.