Hogsticker

Thank You!! I've been waiting! These and the new Yo-Zuri 3D hard baits caught my eye. I'll report back after I order a few. Later!!! Off to Dicks

Yup. Should you decide to replace the handle to a Daiwa handle you can purchase one from the Tackletrap. Cork RCS knobs can be purchased from Hi's Tackle, but they will run ya 50 bucks....plus you will need to add bearings.

I wouldn't worry so much about test poundage as I would line diameter. 8, 7, 6, and 5 lb. Sufix Fluoro are all thinner than 4 lb. Hybrid. It also handles as well as most Monos / Co - Polys

Okay, I'm standing. I think braid is the perfect compliment to a soft composite or glass rod. It brings the transmissions back into your hand. When fishing from shore, that extra distance braid affords you comes in handy.

An improved clinch knot will not break. However rather than wrapping the standard 8-10 times like with mono, I wrap it 12-15 times with thin diameter braid. I've also read more than a handful of threads regarding breakage issues and knot strength with Kanzen. I understand braid isn't for some folks, but if you're forced to use it try some Performance braid.

If you're looking for a true ultra casting mono, try Sunline Defier. It is expensive, but worth every penny! There truly is not another line like it.

If you're referring to original Fireline, it's a fused line, not a braided line. After trying more braids than I care to mention, I still choose Sufix Performance braid. Never had an issue with it.

If you hold your rod tip up and let the lure fall it's not gonna drop at an even rate, as the further it drops it gains momentum. That's why they put brakes on reels. Without them the more momentum the lure gained, the faster the spool would spin just like it's doing when you let the lure free fall.

When in doubt, dead stick it. If the area you're fishing is void of fish it really doesn't matter. You're likely moving the other soft plastics along the bottom where fish generally feed, covering a larger area. If I don't get a strike on the drop and after one twitch once it sinks it's time to reel up and cast it in a slightly different location.

Fishing an exposed hook jig head and getting snagged or hung is part of the program. Be prepared to loose some lead! I've lost hundreds of jig heads fishing rocky structure for walleye. You can Texas rig a 4" tube or grub.

I didn't encounter any digging issues with it on a casting reel, but I took it off after two trips as every time I cut it using a boomerang tool, scissors, or whatever to retie, the stuff frayed like no other braid I've used. The line casts crazy good, but not much better than Performance braid which is what I've stuck with throughout my adventures with braid.

if you're gonna spend the money on a core, look for a Shimano Aldebaran in the 5:8:1 gear ratio. It will cast a small shad rap or crank with ease paired with a medium moderate fast rod. No mods are needed, but spool bearings and a polish on the spool lips will make it very special. The core is a little fast for crank baits IMO.

I fish 10 lb. Sufix performance braid on a two of my casting reels. This line only takes a short while to break in, and I very seldom have digging issues. The problem could be a few things. 1st - the reel. 2nd, if it has a deep spool that holds a lot of line. Last, you may be casting the rod to hard and fast, making the spool start up very quickly. The nice thing about thin diameter braid is you can back off your cast and still achieve great distances. Granted you have the right reel with a fairly shallow spool.

BassZone and Semper Fi both make fairly inexpensive carbon fiber handles you can purchase for 50-60 bucks. You will need to obtain handle knobs and bearings (both can be purchased from T.Trap). Another nice upgrade would be the handle from a Core 100 MG7.

Sounds like the aluminum nut clamp is causing the discomfort? I'm not a fan of aluminum clamps. EVA foam with no exposed threads is the most comfortable IMO. If you choose to stay with an exposed handle seat I suggest staying away from the Pac Bay stuff. The Duckett will likely be more comfortable because it has a Fuji ECS reel seat, one of the best IMO. Don't get hung up on the whole micro guide thing. Some are great, but some are super cheap.

I think the 50 series can do most anything the 200 can, however when ripping 3/4 oz. lipless cranks the reel feels a little stressed IMO. Or maybe I'm just a little stressed? I think the 200 serves better for this, but the frame size is just to large for me.

The best all purpose lines of rods I have used are the Cumara black. The best individual stick would have to be my 6'10 Med. Heavy Mod. Fast Fenwick Elite Tech smallmouth rod. The Kistler KLX line are somewhat labeled as technique specific, however with the Mod. Fast rods action and semi parabolic action makes them very versatile as well. Pretty much most Med. Heavy Mod. Fast rods can do a whole lot of things. It drives me crazy when rods are technique specific labeled because every persons idea of how a certain technique type rod should handle can be quite different.

The Scorpion is lighter as it has brass gears that IMO make it feel a slight touch smoother.

Fishing from a Yak or the bank I really prefer 6'6 - 6'9. You can cast in any motion and not have to worry about banging the tip against a tree or other rods...etc. I also prefer that shorter rod to have more of a moderate fast, parabolic tip/bend. It helps me with distance and targets. I found the M/H *** much to stiff for my taste, and the Med. didn't have quite enough power. Different strokes for different folks I suppose. Shorter rods are becoming obsolete anymore.

Yes, I do match my rods and reels. Well to some degree I suppose. TackleTour ruined me for the better I like to believe. But hey, I'm proud of my gear, and take pride in tinkering with my reels. Plus it's a lot of fun. I only own 5 casting set ups and 1 spinning combo at the moment, but I really see no need to add more. That being said I figured why get 5 150 dollar reels? So I got a little more expensive stuff (this was after owning and selling some). No this is what I love to fish with. It makes my experience on the water even sweeter. All reels have ABEC 7 ceramic spool bearings I have a Daiwa Zilion hyper long cast on a Daiwa Zillion rod. Hedgehog Studio purple accents to match the reel, and a purple Fuji easy keeper on the rod. Shimano Scorpion XT with Hedgehog deep purple accents on a Shimano Cumara Gen 1 with the same easy keeper on the rod Shimano Chronarch 101D7 with gold Hedhehog accent parts on a Fenwick Elite Tech SM with an orange Fuji easy keeper Daiwa T3 MX with an orange SV spool, with orange accent parts from Japan Tackle. This sits on a Kistler KLX with a black Fuji easy keeper Daiwa Fuego with TDZ100M spool. I am in the process of doing my 1st paint job. Going for a flat dark Charcoal color, and I'm gonna use Hedgehog Studio "sky blue" dress up parts. Will go on a Dobyns Champion with a blue easy keeper. OCD? Perhaps.....But like I tell my wife, I could be spending my money on a lot worse things for sure!

People, myself included like to use ceramic bearings not so much to improve casting distance, though it does some. But rather being able to cast and hit that spot with less effort involved. I love the sound of some noisy (well not really noisy) spool bearings. Similar to an exhaust in a Mustang Saleen. Well not really, but you get my drift. I install them because I don't have to rip one for all I've got to achieve the same reults. Don't run them dry. Just 1 small drop of oil on each side of each bearing. By all means if your happy with your reel as is don't do it. But you'll never know of you dont...........................................

If you actually want to feel one of those subtle pick ups I would suggest straight fluoro - A good fluoro, Sniper, Tatsu will both do. They kinda play middle man between holy crap this line has way to much stretch and this stuff is to hard and stiff to not give me one serious tension headache. Yes, they are pricey, but you can get to reels done with minimal backing. I think the persons using a hi vis braid are straight line watchers. Even with a fluoro leader you will not feel the slack line bites as well as you would with a straight fluoro. Just because you're using straight fluoro doesn't mean you can't be a line watcher too. Give yourself every advantage you can. Now talk to meabout fluoro with other apps. and I'll say...well, good luck with that

Just start browsing TW site and get a feel for what you are after. The Daiwa Aird is one of the better "budget" spinning reels. Pop that on a med. or med. heavy Falcon Bucoo, *** black, or Shimano rod and you should be good. It's gonna be tough to not go over 120 by at least 40 bucks. The Fenwick Elite Tech Smallmouth rods are pretty spot on too. If you have no love for the Aird check out the Pflueger President reels. They go for 50 bucks, and it's a tough little reel. I had one that lasted 6 years with 0 maint.

When I'm fishing from shore I use 13 lb. Sunline Shooter Defier for moving baits, and 20 lb. Sufix Performance braid for bottom contact stuff. With both these lines I can really wing it and lay into a cast with minimal worries.

My advice would be to not put all your eggs in one basket. Reels I can narrow down to straight Shimano and Daiwa, but not so much on the rods. I am getting pretty anal though. I won't buy anymore rods that have exposed threads above the reel seat. Pretty petty, but with so much competition on the market, I may as well get exactly what I want. I pretty much run all Cumaras for general purpose, Zillions for botom contact, and KLX for moving baits.