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Hogsticker

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Everything posted by Hogsticker

  1. Bank fishing then absolutely. 2 rods, 2 reels, 2 extra spools. Not only can I switch line types, but essentially I can change the reel itself into an entirely different animal with a different spool. The trick is having a couple universal rods. I can plug a 1016 spool in a T3 or Tdz and fish rattle baits, then replace it with a shallow SV spool and fish light plastics. Again, the universal rods are key.
  2. In my experience Strike King doesn't have near the quality control of Keitech or any other high end Japanese hard or soft bait manufacturer for that matter. You're talking mass produced vs massively produced. The Rage tail baits are great producers and we're a genuine design, but aside from that I haven't been too impressed with much of anything from Strike King. I think for the most part it boils down to what you have tied onto the end of your line the most, and for a lot of folks that's Strike King. I'll stick with my Keitechs and you guys can send me pics of all the massive fish you slay on these new knock offs.
  3. Yep. And if you're stuck fishing from the bank you can have yourself a real dink fest this time of year. Occasionally you'll find a big cruiser willing to take your offering. Generally come June things start to pick up as the bigger fish move shallow early mornings and late evenings to feed.
  4. The Strike King tail looks stiffer to me. That's what sets the Keitech apart. Suppleness and movement at a crawl. The only way to determine is time on the water. Report back after you've fished them.
  5. Rock Lake is loaded with big browns and planted rainbow. They gorge on sculpin this time of year. Not sure where you're referring to if it has smallmouth in it. Are they planted? I'd be using those Keitechs often, and as already stated maybe pick up some underspins. You might be well served picking up some finesse worms and light wacky heads if you have one of those just in case moments.
  6. I live in Eastern Washington. Where are you fishing?
  7. 3/0 for 4" Senkos, 4/0 for 5" . I really like the Gammy skip gap hooks for stick baits. They fit like a glove and stay put. I've trained myself and let me tell ya, it's taken some time, to make sure the fish has completely taken the offering. Walleye are a whole different story.
  8. Weight to stiffness, resins, and scrim material. If all rods in a line up are made with the same materials and components, a medium heavy should offer the same level of sensitivity as a medium light, as long as you're using the rod for its intended purpose not too much below or above the rod is designed and can actually handle for maximum effectiveness. For quick pick ups where you need to set as soon as the fish picks up your bait, an extra fast can be beneficial and may transmit that strike a little quicker. Other techniques where you need to wait for the fish to take your offering in full and with a lift and reel set, a lesser fast action will serve you better. Right tool for the job should be your 1st concern. If the rod has a reputable blank, minimal components, and a quality build, sensitivity is generally 6 in one, half dozen in the other. I'm not saying there aren't dead rods in the bunch, but for the most part judging sensitivity within low, mid, and high price ranges is subjective and can be hard to tell too much of a difference.
  9. My suggestion. Being sensitivity is indeed subjective, look for a rod built on a blank from a proven blank building company. Kistler klx uses Gary Loomis North Fork Composites, St Croix makes great blanks and the SC3s fish above average imo, Alx Zolo B uses Hydra blanks and these are really good, Castaway V2 rods use Rainshadow Revelation blanks, Power Tackle Keith Combs rods also use Rainshadow blanks, and then there is always Phenix.
  10. Yep. Swim em. Creep it along bottom, speed it up and kill it. If you want to fish it along bottom, rather than jigging it, try dragging it. Pull it right along the bottom to get all those appendages moving. Work it like a fluke in deeper water and then stroke it up and let it flutter down. It should get even better once the water warms a bit and the fish get a little more active. Good luck
  11. Got on the water this morning, searched my bag and realized I left all my Easy Shiners at home! Had a package of 3.6 Crazy Flappers so I stuck one on my 3/0 swimbait jig head. Separated all the appendages and flung her out. 1st cast, engaged the reel, and watched my line start swimming away seconds after splash down. All morning I was hooking up like every 3 to 4 casts. Fish wouldn't leave this thing alone, hitting it on the drop more often than not. This is a great alternative to a paddle tail. Caught largemouth, smallies, trout, and even had a 7 lb walleye smoke it while I was stroking it off the bottom. I'd crawl it, burn it, twitch it, yo yo it, didn't seem to matter. This bait is an attention getter for sure. Action packed. Went through the whole pack in about 6 hours, but it's all I threw the entire day, and a day I had. Bass as big as 4 pounds, and as little as 4 inches. Was using my new Daiwa SV103 and had a blast. I highly recommend trying these baits if you haven't already. You really can't fish it wrong, just experiment with your retrieve and hang on tight!
  12. You're question was will 10 mm make a NOTICEABLE difference. Yes it will. 15 mm even more so. Put two bearings under each knob and you're in business. With the Daiwa handle you can use a number of different knobs. Slp, Rcs, cork, etc. Just pick your color.
  13. Yeah. Being we're in the custom Rod section, they fish similar to the likes of a popping blank. More parabolic with lighter actions compared to say a Kistler klx with the same ratings. What blank are you after, and what are you going to use it for?
  14. Daiwa Zillion Tws 100 mm complete handle assembly, 26.99 at the T Trap. It will strap right on, and then you can ditch those lame Lews knobs!
  15. If you're using it for swim jigs, the M1 would be a great choice. Tip, flex, and taper are pretty spot on for this technique. Plus if you've already handled them and like them you won't be rolling the dice. They are not manufactured / assembled in the United States however. Phenix makes great rod blanks. Just my 2 cents.
  16. The gen 1 blanks were prone to breakage. The gen 2 seem to be fine. I haven't read any comments or reviews since the 2nd version was released regarding breakage. The sensitivity these blanks offer is well worth the price imo. Of course sensitivity is subjective and a lot of that will depend on how you build it. Compared to other blanks in that price range I think it's a really good value. I would rate them just above average in terms of sensitivity. I liked the 1st generation non sanded blanks better, but they also broke a lot. Keep in mind they fish lighter than advertised, and are more of a moderate fast with a fairly deep flex.
  17. You'll find the best prices on 2 piece jdm rods at Global Rakuten most likely. Several Japanese fishing shops on this website.
  18. They aren't the same fellas. Same design, different plastic, different molding process. If you're catching more fish on a certain variation it's because you have it tied to the end of your line more often.
  19. The new stock comes with a separate label. The 1st run of blanks did indeed have print. So unless you buy from somewhere that has really old stock, you should be fine. I bought mine from getbit last year and the label was not attached to the blank, or maybe it was a removable deal. I can't remember.
  20. I just started using my 1st spool back in March. It's fantastic. No conditioner needed, doesn't get squirrely, no phantom break offs. Just be smart with it. Use backing and spool 3 reels. People will drop crazy money on rods and reels, but line. . . . Forget it. I mean it's only the one thing connecting you to your fish. No biggie. I'll keep buying it. Tatsu for fluoro, Defier for mono. Once you've used the best it's near impossible to go back to anything else.
  21. You could look into the Jackson Trickster rods. I had one and it was great. Somebody has one for sale on TT right now. 6'3 ml bfs rod for 190 obo. Being subjective, but I think it's a better stick than the Volkey, plus you wouldn't have to worry about insane shipping fees and possible custom charges.
  22. The stock Alphas SV spool handle 1/8 dandy. If you're not going any lighter, you don't really need a new spool unless you just want to get one cause you can. I'd put the money into the rod and a spool bearing upgrade. I will say that a 50 series Shimano with Yumeya bfs spool will outcast the Alphas SV, and allow you to go lighter. It's not a finicky spool either.
  23. I guess I'm in the minority too
  24. The Japanese take bait crafting rather serious and generally produce precision, highest quality stuff. Keitech baits are hand poured, yet have a consistent product you generally don't see with hand pours. Most of the other paddle tails from big name companies are injection molds, including knock offs. The hand pour gives the Keitechs a softer, more supple plastic. This allows them to keep moving at the slowest of speeds and retain more action throughout the retrieve and on the drop. Injection molds are harder, yet generally more durable. All that aside, they get bit so who really cares! I've tried enough to know nothing really compares and produces like Keitech.
  25. There are certain tweener rods that would get the job done. A lot of rods labeled moderate fast or regular have a fastish tip and still retain a nice deeper flex in the blank under load. A true moderate cranking rod isn't gonna cut it for bladed, single hook baits.
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