Preytorien

I think you're probably correct, you would've spent your time paddling and positioning rather than fishing. I might sound a bit soft, but I don't get out if it's over about 8-12mph.

Finally had some success. It was windy, drizzling, and low 40’s....somehow they (and by “they” I mean exactly 3) wanted a purple TRD....I guess it’s better than being skunked again!

Went out last night - the weather here was overcast, mid 50's, and a slight wind..... Not....even....a....nibble Talk about frustrating. But such is the way of fishing. I gave it all the whack I could, different baits, different depths, retrieves, etc.......nothin'

I never use more than 2. I find that if I have too many scattered about in rod holders and such that I can too easily get tangled up during fighting fish and such. I bring 2 and use 1, so a total of 3....maybe

I just bought a Chronarch MGL last year, and it's easily the best feeling and casting reel I've ever used. It's incredible, like literally I'm waiting for my luck to run out because it performs so flawlessly. If you've got the coin for it I would go that route, it's truly a great reel.

I have a Vibe Kayaks Skipjack 90 and that particular model comes with the basic strap in seat found on lower end kayaks. That said, I've seen more than a few guys make DIY raised seats, sometimes from stadium seats, that will accommodate kayaks that don't have dedicated/proprietary raised seats as part of their package. Does anyone here have any ideas or options they've tried themselves? Thanks

I typically follow the one-rod rule, but I too also have a Spiderwire backpack, not sure if ours are the same, but mine has a built-in vertical rod holder on each side so if I need more than one I'll stow it that way, otherwise I don't mess with rod carriers, it's just one more thing to carry around and I'm constantly moving unless I find a good spot, so I don't want more things to haul around.

Gliss will really get the tryout this year for me since it's on a good majority of my rigs, the first time it's on this many. This will be sort of the make or break year for it. I can already see another contender creeping in though, the YGK Soul X-8. Seems to be even thinner but stronger and, as far as I can tell, more abrasion resistant. I see reviews of guys using it for inshore fishing and not having issues. The only problem (compared to Gliss), is the cost, but that may become a non-factor if it works that much better. I'm not disillusioned, if I could find a line that casts as good, or better than Gliss AND has better abrasion resistance....well then....

I can definitely agree with the fraying aspect of Gliss. If I run it through wood or rocks I'll either use a leader or check my line on nearly every retrieve. Anything rough breaks it quickly. It's not got very good abrasion resistance, but I fish mostly open water or gentle grasses.....no problems there. I don't really view it as a true, hardcore braid. I find myself categorizing it in one of its own, where it's a very long casting, sensitive, and low stretch line, but not a braided line so not quite so tough. It's a tough call as to what category I'd put it in, but I don't believe even Ardent (the manufacturer) classifies it as a braid, rather they lump it in the "superlines" category. I wouldn't pull any punches in telling folks if you're a power fisherman, use heavy setups, and hard hooksets then Gliss is not a good idea, it's almost exclusively a finesse line, built for casting finesse lures crazy distances. I've used both the 832 and Gliss, but I've not really done any side by side comparisons. In general compared to any sort of 8-strand braid like 832, the Gliss will be significantly more limp, there won't be a break in period of any kind. Both lines have color bleed, can't get away from that. I would say if you're setting the hook hard enough to cross their eyes, you'd probably be safest to use 832, but if you're finesse fishing, and doing gentle reelsets, then Gliss will make you happy in most cases.

I'd say you're all a pretty optimistic bunch. When our river looks like the one @scaleface posted I don't even attempt it. History has made me at the very least, unconvinced.

Yep still is. Yes, I have to do a little more diligence on my knots, it's not as forgiving as most other braid lines, and the smaller diameters can snap pretty easy, which I rarely see since my lighter setups using small diameters see me typically doing lighter reel sets. I have even made the transition to two of my casting setups, particularly on my Chronarch MGL since it casts incredibly well with the MGL spool. It's their 40lb test and I gave a couple fish at the end of my season last year some pretty hard hooksets and didn't break it like the smaller diameters did. I did change out one spinning setup to YGK Soul X-8 and have been pleased with it so far, but it's pretty pricey to me. Eventually I may try some of it on the MGL's, but that probably won't be for a while.

I don't have experience with this exact case as I've never had a broken rod, but I have submitted a case to UPS for a computer they nearly completely destroyed in shipping. The box was completely torn up. I can't believe the driver even delivered it - knowing that whatever was inside was surely obliterated. The only advice I can give is to CONSTANTLY....and I mean WITHOUT RELENT.....bug them, pester them, call, email, about your case. They love tying things up to hope you'll go away. Don't miss their call - you won't get the same person back if you call them. Sometimes I think they call at weird hours so you will certainly miss the call but they can argue that "Oh sir we did attempt to call you." Keep transcripts of emails, record calls if you can, just completely document everything you do in correlation with them. But if I can reiterate one thing it is absolutely bug the CRAP out of them - as they say, the squeaky wheel gets the grease. My case took 2.5 months to resolve, but they finally did. Hopefully yours is resolved MUCH sooner. Good luck and God speed

I second the 6.3:1 I use a chatterbait with an unusually high amount of resistance, so if I use my 7.1's or 8.5's I run it too shallow and also tire out faster. The 6.3 does the job perfectly.

I think that's a plan for what you're describing. The cover should provide. I'll bet they're in there, and you'll stick them. As I said I use the *** jigs, they have their bit of an unusual weedguard.....it works though. Put a good trailer on the hook and it'll be even more weedless. Let us know how you do

When the water's muddy the last thing I would use is anything that is a slow or non-moving bait. Jigs and soft plastics don't usually produce for me. The fish might be tight to cover, but in muddy water they're going to rely on their lateral line primarily for targeting - or at least that's what one bass told me once after I caught him Knowing that - my favorite and most successful muddy water lure is a black/blue *** bladed jig that I bend the top of the blade forward a bit, then put a black Rage tail trailer on the back. That thing vibrates like a helicopter engine, but it catches fish even in chocolate milk water. Slather the trailer with some Megastrike and I don't usually go home skunked.

I honestly don't remember. It was a couple of years ago and I don't see that transaction in my history. Maybe the eBay shop closed? I'm not sure. I would just make sure the seller has great reputation and is within the US. Additionally it doesn't hurt to find a shop that is not on the west or east coast. I've seen some of the knock-off shops set up their stores stateside so it seems legit, usually the west coast, but in reality they ship the fakes to a store here then sell it with a US address. Just keep an eye out.

I've found 2 things to be a standout in my eyes from the Ocho 1. They seem to be a bit less durable, but really no senko is really durable (however I'm testing the Savage Gear Armor Tube worm this year to see how it goes) 2. I can absolutely kill it when the senko bite is on if you use an Ocho with a nice glitter in it. I think the flat side combined with the glitter make it highly visible even in stained water

I've fished them, as well as both the Duo Spinbaits, and the Jackall i-Prop The Jackall and Storm are similar in how they feel on the cast and retrieve The Duo is heavier, gets to depth faster, and retrieves deeper - meaning - I don't have as much issue needing to slow down my retrieve to keep the bait under As a happy result, I found the Jackall and Storm both ride a bit higher, so when the bass are busting surface baitfish or just simply hitting topwater I can get some pretty consistent action with those two.

My apologies, I failed to understand that you wanted a line-to-line knot. In that situation I'm afraid none are particularly easy, especially as your line diameter decreases. I use an Alberto knot, but as many times as I've tied it, I still have to do a couple practice runs before I get one with a nice tiny knot like I want. There's just not a lot of easy join knots unfortunately.

Probably the easiest to tie is the Palomar knot. It works with almost any line, for any lure, it's easy to tie, and easy even in inclement or cold weather, it's strong, and relatively weed-free - it's a great general purpose knot and easy to learn. I'd take a look over at Net Knots....they have an excellent library of knots to start on for almost any application and include intuitive tutorials on how to tie them. https://www.***.com/fishing_knots

I'm not altogether sure that color would matter quite so much on a bait like that. It's a fast moving reaction bait, thus the predator instinct in the fish to strike a moving target would be it's first inclination and cause for striking in the first place, not whether it "looked right." Especially being a topwater lure, the fish will likely only see a silhouette of the lure anyways, establish it looks like it should eat it, and consequently strike the crap out of it. I can see it being effective. Now that said, it can't hurt to match the forage of your particular waters, but in my experience my Loon colored Whopper Plopper looks NOTHING like anything in my waters, but outfishes most lures in my arsenal easily.

Along the lines of #3, after every trip I always completely unspool my line, and re-retrieve it to do a complete re-seat of the line on my rigs. I run the line through my fingers to check for kinks and make sure I pack it on tight. Seems to help a lot, especially after outings where I've had a decent amount of digs for one reason or another.

I’ve recently bought some of the Oakley Prizm shallow water fishing lenses - still giving them a good shake to see which I like best but as of yet they’re very similar

I haven't personally had any back issues, but my dad has had back issues most of his life. I can see how it affects his ability to get out some days, and from seeing that I truly sympathize for your pain. He'd tried bi-weekly chiropractic appointments, major painkillers, and sometimes wore a TENS unit almost all day. Nothing seemed to do the trick. He noticed a world of difference when his chiropractor recommended getting on an inversion table for 15-20 minutes a day twice a day. He said that chiropractic adjustments can only go so far with pinched nerves and at a point only decompression of the vertebrae will alleviate the pain. Even if it meant his business from my dad might suffer, he still recommended it, and we saw a nearly instantaneous difference. He didn't jump out and buy Teter Hangups right away, he got a secondhand model on Craigslist to see if it did any good, and when he noticed a dramatic difference he pulled the trigger on a nicer model, which ended up being a great buy for him. The supports and ankle retention system are much better quality and more comfortable. He got tired of just pounding down painkillers and turned out the inversion tables worked for him......just might do the trick for you too? Might be worth a look.

I personally use the Copper Silver Mirrors, but it seems any of the copper base lenses are good for sight fishing. Here's a breakdown of their suggested uses of lens colors https://www.costadelmar.com/us/en/performance-technology/lenses.html