starcraft1

I've fished that point behind you a few times and have caught up to 91/2 spots right about where you are. Lake "B" as everyone has been calling it has some monster spots in it. Like you said, it'll be broken, hopefully not for a while. The place is a zoo right now. full of "dink" fisherman in each way.

This is a great idea! I did this for yrs. and now all my neighbor kids are in their 60's & 70's me too! I taught my neighbor the fine art of plastic fishing along with another friend, Now he's over cleaning my boat and asking when the next trip will be? Kids!

Glen, one of the big problems for me is the pro installer part. The weight vs. hole shot - no problem, hieght - no problem in the water(s) i'b be using them in, useable space in back storage = ? Still can't seem to get the fluid idea out of my head. I will admitt the noise (of deplotment) might be a problem, but with the wind on the water, this might prove to be a "no problem" deal. I've talked to a few pro's who've had both and have taken them off. "They don't hold in a rough (high) wind area.To me this is'nt a problem do to the fact that the waters I tournament fish has no use for them, but my "fun" fishing hole has all the use in the world. The pro's & cons of both seem to be valid, but I'm going the way of the Talon. Reason(s) 1. Price, 2. installion - Talon, My partner and I can install our selves. 3. Where I'll be using them most has thick (I mean THICK) grass mats and (in my thinking) the straight deployment of the Talon will work better(?) than the extending - I guess that's what it's called? - action of the Power Pole(s). I'd like to thank all who have put their 2 cents in on this, it has helped in a couple of ways. 1. It made me get off my duff and really look into the subject more and "WOW! they're both real proud of their product in the $$$ way!" (my wife saying this) 2. I now know that one of my retirement checks is going to tied up for a few months to pay for "another one of my toys" again my wife, I'm going with the Talon model in the 12'. I'll let everyone know how I feel after I get them installed. Thanks again, Bruce

About $150

I've went the same road and I've found I'm cooler than I was before. I use the spf 50 shirt and gloves and now going for the neck/face gear. A little on the pricey side ($40 ea. shirt) but well worth the $$$ Try hydrocortisone for the sunburn itch, it helped me.

Tom's nailed all of your line & casting problems - well said! :smiley:Smokinal has to be right, I use the same set-up!, with some slite differances. I use #30 on all but my pitchin' rig then it's #50 straight to the hook & #65 on frogs. Spinning reels are #20 with a 4' to 8' leader. 8lb. to 12lb. F.C. I put 50 yrds. of braid over about a half spool of mono (15 to 17lb.) and I like Sea-Gar for F.C.

I'm a both kind of guy, but lately I've been teaching my neighbor how to fish for bass with plastics. At 1st it was a pain in the A@% but then he caught on and has lost some nice fish. I believe he looks forward to the trips more than I and it's brought back some of the newness of the sport. A nice day by myself brings the world back to semi- normal.

I use 3/4 to 1 oz. poison head - 5/0 round bend with a heavy weed gaurd and a "missle" shaped plastic or a skirted jig (on trimming of the skirt) with no trailer. Both methods work great. Keep your plastics slender with nothing sticking out to get caught in the matts/ grass and if your water is on the warm to hot side, a jellyied sent works well to let your bait "slide" thru the heavy/ slimy stuff. I use Smelly Jelly and leave it on the deck in the sun. It will seperate, just move your plastics around in it and you'll bring it back. No sure if your local bait shop carries it, it's made in Or. or Wa. Most of us west coast guys know of it. Try the XXX3 crawdad type. I know Bass tackle depot carries it. Also look into Bass Kandi baits (your local co.) Mike makes the right colors for your and many other areas. He's located in the south/western part of your state.

Both the types (flipping - late 70's - Dee Thomas & pitching - early 80's - Dave Gliebe) were brought to life on the San Jauqin - Cal delta. Very similar in practice and both can be done on either a bait casting rod or a spinning rod. Both require a 3 to 4 power rod (mim.) and a reel that will handle 50 lb. braid at the min. As for a spinning rod that will handle these types, an in- shore jigging rod should do the trick, they can handle a 3 to 4 oz. jig and should be able to take care of your problems there. For the reel, check the max drag, chances are your going to have to crank it all the down. You'll want one that will go up to 15 lbs min. drag. The line amount won't matter, you'll only be using 40' max for either method. A 3,000 to 3,500 series (size) should do the trick. I use a 3 power bait caster for pitching stick baits into grass pockets & 4 - 6 power for 3/4oz. on up. I sell a lot of 1/4 jigs to flippin' fisherman on the same delta along with 3/4 to 1 1/2 oz. jigs. It all depends on the type of cover your going into. Don't make the mistake that you have to have a "broom stick" to get the job done. Look at the types of cover your dealing with and how your going to work it. I've fished with Dee several times and Dave is a personal friend who got me into tournament fishing in the late 70's. He also gave me my 1st flippin' stick, It was all glass 2 piece Fenwick rod. This said, look for a heavy rod at either K-mart or Wal-mart. This should keep the cost factor down. $75 to $100 should set you up fine. Many manufactors make a good braid, it all depends on how much you spend. Hint; Don't use all braid, a good mono backing prior to braid is much better (15 to 20 lb.)

I've useGaco-flex and had great results on both deck & roof. Never used it on the side panels

I don't know prices in the N/E but on the west coast I bought a 1998 ZX202 (20' 2") Skeeter with a rebuilt 200 h.p. Yamaha V Max (had to do a little adjustment to get it to run right - minor stuff) with min. electronics (gave to friend) and an old 44/88 trush MK. Replaced all electronics & tm. Total cost was under $15,000. I also put an onboard charging system (3 bank), added another bluige pump, bought a 12' push pole, and all new safty equipment. This was 3 yrs. ago and with over 200 hrs. since, NO PROBLEMS! I run her at an avg. speed of 50+, the new electronics work fine and the replacement tm as well. A little time and elbow grease on your part, you should end up with a great boat! Minor engine work consistised of replaceing the plug wires and cleaning fule lines.

I'd ask them about a product named E6000? I use it for all under water apps. Works great!

Back in my working days I put quite alot of waterproffing pruducts on houseboats and I've heard of this product, good stuff. IMO you have a good friend! At that price I'd make sure he applies plenty on the walls and roof. You can also use it for water proffing the outside walls of a basement. The products I used came with manf. sugesstionss and instructions. Follow them to the letter! Good luck!

I didn't notice any hole shot problems with 2 PP's on the back of a Z21 nitro, both 8' running a 250 pro XS nor the single 8' on the Triton 19'. I wouldn't have a problem with the 8 ' model except about 20% of the water I fish sets I the 9' to 11' range and I've caught some toads out deeper. The other 80% is from 6' down to 2'. This is push pole water only. Heavy grass with holes. Great frog, punchin' & senko water. I also checked around a little on price. Wal-Mart has Talons in the 8,10, & 12- models in 3 different colors. The jack plate bracket and foot tilt (10' & 12' only) are extra. The 8' price is better than either Bass Pro or Cabelas by $250 to $300. Wonder about the quality? If I remember right, the 8' was around $1,095 (sale) $1,200 something (reg. ) The 10' & 12' models they're a little more proud of at $1,500 & $1,800 plus the extra parts.

Looking for any personal info. on both the Power pole & MK. Talon in the 10' & 12' models. PROS & CONS of operating, boat holding in rough (2' to 3') water, hydro vs. elect., ect. I've read the hype and have been on the water with both and have my own option as far as clam water goes. My concern is the hydro vs. elect. I've heard of hydro leaks & hoses coming off on the P.P. 's and not much from the talon side except of low overhangs witch the 10' & 12' models have a foot peddle lever (extra $$ of course!) Thanks, Bruce

I run a ZX202 with a 80 lb. max. on t and have only 3 gripes. (1) I wish I would have spent the extra $$$ for the Fortrex. The extra help with the lift in & out of the water would help. (2) The cable will stretch - as with any cable model. Easy fix with the adjustment screw on the front of the foot peddle ( it will take 2-3 times before the cable will be happy(?) (3) In cold weather the lanyard / pull rope and slide will hang-up on you after a med. trip (2 hrs.) to the water. Again an easy fix, some WD40 (or other same type oil) on the slide will give you a "quick" fix, but graphite on the slide will fix the problem. The lanyard / pull rope is another easy fix with simply tying a better knot! The last two I learned by trail and error! I've looked at the I-pilot models and have to agree with the noise problem and IMO the reaction of the head is way to slow for the water I mostly fish. I do like the idea of "keeping you on the spot" as it was put to me at the last I.S.E. show in Sac., Ca. but when I was at the elite tourney (also on the Sac. river) and heard one working, it' way to loud I fish in water between 1' & 10' and even 20' away it would spook the fish. As far as "cutting" thru hvy. weeds and grasses the MK. works much better then any other I've used. As far as the amount of thrust you'll need, on a 17' alum. a 70 lb. would give you all you'll need 42" or 60" depending on how crazy your water is. Hope this helped you out, Bruce

I fish a very shallow impoundment in N. Ca. and I'm looking at either the Talon or PP. Both have their pro's & cons, but I have to disagree with WRB on this as far as "only one use". I have a 11" jack plate on the back of my Skeeter with is fine for what I fish and is set in one position. The shallow water anchors have more uses than just site fishing IMO. I've found that if the winds have come up to the point of being on the tm all the time to keep on an area it takes away from your fishing. I've fished out of a couple of boats with them (both the Talon & PP) and found that you fish and your not on the TM all the time keeping your position on any structure. What really impressed me was the way I could fish the wind-word side of a tulle island (which this water has a lot of) or a rock pt. from any side you want to and still have room for the other guy to fish without leaving them out in the deep water. This is important to me because my buddies aren't young (like me?) anymore and moving around is getting harder for them. As far as the hydro jack plate, I have no option because I've never owned one. Hope this helps you a little more.

You said a const. co. made the lake. Why not get a hold of the company. I'm sure they'll have a map of the lake. All the projects I worked on have them, It's something they have to show on the plans. Your local city / country should have copies,

Can't go wrong with any of the three.

Try a 4" auger and a 1/2 oz. jig?

Ever heard of a jig?

Ever thought about mono? I use 17 to 25 on my big and smaller swim bait rods. Berkley big game clear does the job great. Swimbait fish will hook themselves and you'll want the "shock" value. Give it a try.

I've done it with smallies but never on tourney day. I'd get the 4 into the boat and pick up another rod and flip back to the other fish.

If you still have questions, check out Allison boats. Bad side is getting to the live wells. The reason the "pros" use single console boats is the quickness to the live wells and more room. Time is $$$$$$

Clear lake needs another 5' to get close to full pool. The "A" - rig, swim baits, & jigs are working well right now.