Brackish Angler 228

I'm a veteran at angling for my own flesh (check the profile pic..). And to whoever said a sharper hook would push right through is dead wrong. Even brand new GOOD hooks don't want to push through because of how how dense human flesh is and how it works against the barb. The deeper it goes, the harder it gets to push. If the hook had no barb it would be easy to push through. You don't realize how tough you really are until you've sat in a boat biting down on something and using all your mental and physical strength to push a hook through your skin. Only to keep fishing with a hook in your hand for the rest of the day because you forgot dykes.

If you're fishing where pedestrian traffic is prohibited, like an interstate, I understand why they would ask you to leave. That or parking on a shoulder that's meant for emergencies. Other than that, if you're sure it's public land, try and politely ask the officer why you aren't allowed to fish there. The hard part about that is a lot of cops hear "asking politely" and think "getting smart".

This is exactly dead on. You're using massive baits for a pond. You shouldn't need anything over 1/2 oz EVER for a small, calm pond. You definitely don't need a 10" worm. 4" - 6.5" worms on either shakey heads or light T-rigs with either 2/0 or 3/0 light-wire hooks (round bend for actual worms, EWG for thicker baits like senkos, craws, etc.) Dip in JJs, cast and set your rod down (not litterally, just don't move the bait for at least 30s). Then fish painfully slow and stop and shake or doodle for a second then let sit for another 30s. You want your bait to sit still more than it moves.

What river are you on? That's an important thing to know. If you're fishing a river with mostly redeye and you're throwing 8" worms on 5/0 hooks that's a problem. Give us some real details. I fish rivers in my yak and pull big spots, but it depends on what river you're fishing. You might also want to check out a forum called "Alabama River Fishing" they'll know more than these guys on such specific rivers.

You won't be disappointed. I wish I would have bought a JDM 100

Chronarch 50E, Curado 50e, Scorpion 1000XT, TD-Z 105H, Conquest 50, etc.

I use 7'6" rods for flats fishing for specs and reds, but that's clear open water and I'm sight fishing so I need the casting distance. Honestly I can't imagine using a rod that long for bass fishing off banks or near cover. If I'm not mistaken, I think most long (over 7'3") bass rods are to give you leverage when setting the hook in really deep water. I would suggest getting a 6'10" to 7'1" rod. Those are my favorite freshwater rod lengths.

While I won't just come out and say JDM tackle is "worth the money" the quality and technology they boast is unsurpassed by any other market. You can't compare many reels to JDM Daiwas and Shimanos... Buy the JDM one if you get a D series.. They're the same price USDM and JDM and you can get a 100 series in Japan where 200D is the smallest for the US. I have a USDM 200D and it absolutely blows that you cannot access the VBS... The JDM D series has a swinging sideplate like the B series Calcuttas. Worth the $20 shipping IMO.

I meant a "new" frame from the old Chronarch, whoops! Thanks for clarifying. That's just simply not true. It's a huge misconception; especially in the automotive industry. I work in automotive manufacturing and I know first hand that parts quality has improved and tolerances are tighter and tighter every model change. Now, as far as Shimano's reels, I cannot say. But, as someone who works in manufacturing and deals with suppliers, I will say that if something undergoes a minor model change and uses a lot of the last model's exact parts, those parts are most likely created using the same process and tooling. For a supplier (may or may not be Shimano) to re-cut tools and dies in order to create new parts is ridiculously expensive. So to do so to create lower quality parts would be illogical. I'm not saying it can't, won't or doesn't happen, I'm only saying it doesn't make sense.

Short answer: Shimano enthusiasts believe the older Curado E is superior to the newer Chronarch E despite it being the same exact reel (with minor upgrades) in a different color. In my opinion it's a preference thing, not a performance thing.. Long answer: The Curado G and Chronarch E were both technically downgrades, but only within their own model name. The Curado G is now in between the Citica E/G and the Castaic SF, borrowing its bearing count from the Castaic SF and it's tech from the Citica E/G. The new Chronarch E is mechanically equivalent to the old Curado E with more ratios. So effectively the price of a new Curado E has gone up to $200 (Chronarch E), and the Chronarch D has ceased to exist for the USDM. The Scorpion XT has been termed the "Japanese Curado E" but, honestly, it's more similar, mechanically, to the Chronarch D. The Chronarch E got a titanium line guide and Dartanium II drag: upgrades from the Curado E. The real question is why Shimano didn't perform the upgrades under the Curado name and keep the Chronarch untouched. Even with the price increases people would buy a $200 Curado G knowing that it was an upgrade from the E rather than buying a Chronarch E that was a downgrade from the D. With the Chronarch D gone from the line, there's now a gap for people who wanted a Core with its 7 A-RB bearings, but liked the brass gears of the Chronarch (over the Core's aluminum) and didn't mind the added weight of the aluminum frame. I suspect (maybe hope?) that Shimano will fill the gap at iCast 2013. EDIT: I hope you weren't referring to the 300E.. Because that's a completely different story..

Thanks for the clarification, I didn't know smallmouths were really aggressive. Sheephead = creephead... Those scoundrels freak me out. TIL they were freshwater, though; thought they were only found in the Gulf!

Well put. The rod tapers, lengths, and powers make sense now. G Loomis also makes smallmouth rods; "Bronzeback" I think they're called. All of those techniques seem to require a sensitive rod, so whats with the cork inside the reel seat? It seems to contradict the solid blank-to-reel and exposed blank connection that so many companies seek to increase sensitivity. G Loomis Bronzeback Spinning Fenwick Elite Tech Smallmouth Casting

I don't live near or fished for smallmouth bass, but I see smallmouth rods on different sites and I was wondering: What exactly makes a smallmouth rod special? The reel seat on the ones I've seen look odd; with cork embedded and huge triggers. Why is that?

Seeing how long the spool can spin means absolutely nothing. I used to think the same thing. I bought a Calcutta 200GTB for saltwater fishing and when buying a freshwater reel I was spinning every spool in my local tackle store comparing them to my Calcutta. I bought a Revo SX because of how "fast" everything would move on it. I fish my Calcutta alongside my Revo all the time and with the same baits the casting distance is almost identical. Now, I do have a Chronarch 50e and I love it, but I can't comment on how it was new. I bought it here on the flea market and the seller said it was fished 5 times but I can't tell you if he stripped and relubed it. I will say my family owns around 30 Shimanos (mostly Calcuttas and original Bantams) and none of them were "bad" straight out of the box. The Chronarch will not disappoint you. I'm incredible impressed with the quality of the reel and its performance. It will cast weightless worms no problem with only 2 brakes on and hardly any spool tension. I can't say that about any other reels I own.

Yes, I own one and had problems. I explained what the problem is and why it happens.