DJ Funk

My dealer told me that they have put talons on other renegades without issues. My concern was too much weight on the transom.

I have a small plano box that I keep a small supply of jigs with jig trailers/ hooks, go to plastics and punching weights/hooks that I have velcro'ed to the front of the plastic under my windshield for easy access. I also have a bigger plano that I can swap out that has velcro in the same spots if I am fishing hard baits that day. This is just something I have to be back at it in seconds. I have an older boat, so I'm not super worried about that part of the appearance btw. As far as necessities... Having a back up trolling motor prop, back up circuit breaker for the trolling motor battery is a must. Extra sheer pins too. Also having jumper cables, oil for your outboard, backup aerator pump and bilge pumps are important as well. It costs alot to get back ups of certain things to be prepared, but far less costly that not having them.

The new bills that they are proposing are just ridiculous. The 250 foot one likely will get thrown out. The ones to be really aware of are the soft plastic ban, and the ban on lead jigs that are under 1oz/ 2.5" in length. I urge all of you to take the time to write a sincere letter to the legislators that are supporting these bills. Be polite, and be fair. This is our livelyhood. We need our voice heard, and to be respected. Don't just fill out the form from fishamerica or whatever it is. Those canned responses aren't taken seriously.

I would love to be able to do an MLF style tournament! How would you pull it off, if not everyone has an Ipad, and the same calibrated scale? I'd love to see thorough details, as my club has tried to think of a fun way to have a tournament during the spawning period, which can only be CMR styled tournaments.

Don't forget raingear! I'll see if I can come up with an ellaborate list for you, on what I do. It seems like I'm prepared for most things. I will leave out the obvious.

I'm not sure if there will room in the back for 3 batteries and 2 6 gallon gas tanks though.

Thanks... ed The trolling motor has it's own after market wiring (I believe it's 8 gauge marine wiring) that is exclusively used for the trolling motor. It also has an inline fuse as well. The batteries in the back are connected in parallel. Not sure why. I bought it a dealership and it came in on a trade. Perhaps the previous owner didn't want to run new wiring to the back if the old wiring was bad. Who knows.

Yes, I charge the batteries as soon I return. I also have them ona maintainer when not in use. I didn't notice this as being a real issue until fall (more wind) so I was having to crank up the speed on my TM. My thought is to not run the bilge area batteries in parallel and just use one. I'll be getting the boat out this week and taking it out to test to see the results of running all the electronics and pumps to see what happens from only using one battery. Keeping the newest battery up front with the TM, and when I need it, swap it out with the extra one in the bilge area. Pain in the butt, but probably the cheapest option.... Thoughts?

Good morning and Happy Easter to you all! I've been having issues with getting enough use out of trolling motor, and I usually run out of trolling motor based on the wind having to turn the speed up on my trolling motor too many times to keep on my spot. After getting all 3 batteries tested (yes 3...2 in the back run parallel for the electronics and live well for whatever reason...bought it this way) and one in the front which is a duracell marine deep cycle 29hm series (1 year old) I have been given the idea that my Minnkota Edge 55lb trolling motor (12V) just isn't enough for my boat. (1989 basstracker aluminum v hull tournament V17). One idea is to add another battery and keep it on hand (adding more weight) meaning having 4 batteries in the boat. moving the second battery from the back and using that for the back up selling my current trolling motor and getting a 24 volt system. I'm not rich, but if I need to do it, then that's my only real option. So if I do go with option #3, what trolling motor would you recommend? I would like to get Minnkota preferrably. Thanks in advance! Jeff

Unfortunately, I can't get to check it out until April 1st. I am going to look into new toggle switches as well, as I've heard maybe my switch is bad.

Good morning everyone, I am looking to replace either my foot switch for my bilge pump, or the pump itself. Here lies the issue: Last season, I noticed a few times that my bilge wouldn't automatically come on, so I would need to hit manual to pump out the water that was in there, though it wasn't a lot. After a few days of that, when I would pick the boat up, my bilge pump would be running, but was not running when I dropped it off where I keep it during the season. Now, the only way to keep the bilge pump off, is to take the fuse out of the fuse panel. It's in storage until April 1st, so I can't get to it right now, so I need to make the most of my time when I get it back. I have many things to work on... *new prop and getting the lower unit tested *fix the trailer side bunk rails that rotted off ( I have some pressure treated 2x4's with marine carpet that was given to me) *bilge pump issue Do you think that I should get a replacement foot switch, a replacement pump, or one of the automatic bilge pumps with a built in float switch? Does it need to match what I have, or what would be some good, cost effective replacements? (links are a bonus and much appreciated!) Thanks in advance guys!

Good point. I may see what he says, but I want a new prop for regular use.

Yes it is...I've been told by some places that it may be rebuildable though.

Thanks for the replies so far guys... Here is my prop that is damaged: https://plus.google.com/photos/105927427685564828363/albums/5853371916836410577?authkey=CIrJzfOF2Ir21gE

Good morning everyone! As spring approaches, I have many projects going on, and some unfinished business with my boat that didn't get taken care of last fall before I put it away. At the time, and all winter, I haven't had the money to even think of a new prop or anything extra. At all... That said, my summer is super busy with work, my wedding disc jockey business, and fishing. Now that I will have more income to fish what I need done, I have the following issues to take care of: First off, I need a prop for my 1989 Mercury 70hp motor. On the prop, it says: 48 77344 A4OL 17P (from what I understand, it is a 13.25 x17 with a 17pitch) I have narrowed it down to here: http://www.getaprop.com/content-categories/cat-525_590_951/40_140hp_aluminum.html I just want to make sure that I am shopping for the exact prop that I have already. I want to stay with an aluminum prop, and hopefully save as much money as I can. I don't want a piece of junk, but money is a huge factor. The prop I currently have, has the hub built into it. I will likely need a hub kit. From your experiences, what props are the best for the money? I have seen the power tech ones, but wonder why they are so much cheaper than the other ones. Here is a prop that I found on Ebay, but not 100% positive it will work for my motor...http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercury-48-77344A45-Genuine-13-25-X-17-Pitch-Black-Max-Aluminum-Propeller-Prop-/200901204309?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item2ec6a51955&vxp=mtr I can get the prop frim the dealer for $171, but I'd like to get it cheaper than that of course. I do have boat insurance, and the deductable is $500. The shaft doesn't appear to be bent, and there is still grease on it (a friend asked if there was) and when I changed the lower unit oil while winterizing it, my friend who really knows his stuff, said that the lower unit oil looked brand new before we changed it, and he said that could be a good sign. I am going to have it tested though, just to be sure. When I hit the rock, or ledge, or whatever it was, I was going less than 5 mph. My trolling motor was completely dead, and I was heading in for the day. Second Question: I had an issue during the last trip or two that my bilge pump would not automatically come on. My thoughts were that the float switch was stuck, so I'd have to turn the switch on manually up front to get it to pump out any of the small amount of water back there. I noticed my next trips out, that when I would pick up the boat, the bilge pump would be running. My answer was to take the fuse out to make it stop. Do you think that I just need a new float switch, or are there other factors I am dealing with? I know that I had something else too, but it's too early! Thanks in advance!