NBR

Most bait cast equipment in the mid price tange is pretty darn good. The problem with switching from spinning gear to bait casting is the practice needed with the bait caster. I prefer bait casting down to 1/4 ounce and sometimes to 1/8 ounce. Bait casting light lures are not just a function of the reel but the system. IMO the rod is number 1 followed by the reel and then the line and lure but the governing factor is the skill of the operator. Operator skill is improved by practice.

IMO trebles always lose more fish than singles like worm or jig hooks. They have a much smaller shank to barb distance so they get a much smaller grip on the fish. Having said that I have been a barbless or pinched down barb fisher guy for over 30 years and I don't think there is a treble in my box with a barb leftun less its a never been used bait.. I don't set the hook a bunch of times unless I think I got a bad hook set to start. Every time you yank on that line it tends to open up a larger hole at the hook. As B lue Streak said maybe bigger hooks. When I buy a new crank I'll look at the hooks and decide if I should go a size bigger.

My take on this is always go with themaximum rated HP.

Salt injected as a part of the molding process adds weight and the salt that has a part of its crystal on the surface no doubt adds a salty taste or slight scent trail.Whether that taste or scent trail makes a difference I don't really know but I think so. It also weakens the bait since the salt is a foreign material ( like a piece of grit in your eye) and acts as a stress riser and reduces the area of homogenous material thus the easy tear material in stick worms. The salt also has a higher specific gravity than the plastic so a bait with salt is heavier than a bait of the same size without salt. Thus casts farther and sinks faster. I'm not sure what a stick worm would do if made from a material with no salt in the mixture. Three things certain though, 1.They wouldn't cast very well, 2.The sink rate would be much slower and although I'm not sure on 3. I don't think the fish would hold on as long. There are many oils that can be added to polymers that bleed will bleed to the surface after molding so the surface is oily.

Langley Streamlite! Whats that? You don't want to know!

I found that batteries from Wal-Mart are a good value they might last as many tears as others but they cost less. Be sure you charge every time you come in and you should get 3 to 5 years out of the battery. Be sure to check the water level and use distilled water.

You might better use a "Barb It" made. To debarb deeply hooked fish.

Goober it up reardless of the knot you use.

It might be the bait being light but it could be your cast control (under the star drag) is set too tight. Remember that setting the brakes too light and the cast control will increase back lashes until you get your thumb really educated. I assume you are casting side arm with your right hand/arm. As said you need to loosen you thumb off the reel spool sooner. Best practice is still in the yard use some lighter baits. I ofen use small jigs that I just cut the hook off so the jig doen't han up in the grass.

Porpoising is usually the driver. I can make mine porpoise but why.

I just take my chances. Best we've done was a 16# and a 14# on 8# mono when fishing for smallies or walleyes. You must check your line for nicks before you cast again. I rarely get bit off.

Not being sure what you are going to pull with I'd check it's gvw with the weight of the rig. Does either trailer have brakes? Pulling is not as important as stopping. Re motor the 4 stroke will give more fuel efficiency but for me I'm a two stroke fan. Because they have been around for so many years, are so much lighter and improved so much in both performance and durability over the years. When I bought my boat I had the option of a two axle trailer with smaller tires or a single action trailer with 15" rims and a surge brake. I am sure glad I went for the surge brakes.

I like to palm the reel when I retrieve and I am more accurate casting right handed. So I switch but some times I do that before the lure hits the water. It males little difference which way it's done.

We lived in southern Illinois with no smallies around. As a teenager we went to Ely, MN on vacation to a lake with northerns and walleyes. My dad had friends at nearby Eagle Nest lake and we went there for a day of fishing. I still remember a smallie that took a surface bait and threw it on the first jump. As the bait hit the water the same or another smallie grabbed the bait. I've been a fan ever since. We did find a small local river that as best as I can remember had a small population of smallies. We waded for smallies with our fly rods and caught a few. Where I live now we have both smallies and largemouth but there are more smallies and since I don't fish T's I don't target the LM. I might have caught one a year or so ago. I like the LM's but I love the brown fish.

Since it is a mono I am pretty sure it will float. I have it on one reel that I've used for C-rigging but will replace it with braid this year. Nothing wrong with the line I am looking for more sensitivity with the braid.

Readthe set up instructions with the reel, then read the set up instuctions in the forum, buy a practice plug and practice, practice. practice.

Up to a point the more expensive reels are easier to use. Bait casting takes practice and if you are not willing to spend the time don't bother. It is frustrating to be spending time on the water unsnarling backlashes so practice in the yard, driveway etc.

The shaft seal on the prop shaft might have seeped a bit. I would think any water in the motor section would cause failure. Get your wife or girl friend to hoist it out of the water as this is a chore outside of what is important to a guy. My wife would do this in a heart beat. Sadly she would also take it loose from the raft, tie the end of a rope fastened to it with the other end around my neck and trhrow it over

While this may vary slightly with season when I leave the launch I'll have bait casters with a stick worm, a suspending jerk bait, a surface bait and a spinner bait. A spinning rig with a small jig and a grub. In summer I'll replace one of the originals with a C-rig,

Welcome, I am also retired and live in the NH lakes region. Best thing about retirement is I rarely fish on weekends and I've become a comfort fisherman, i.e. I no longer challenge miserable weather, boat traffic or other things that make me uncomfortable. I live 45 minutes or much less from Winni, Waukewan, Squam and Newfound. So I can come and go almost as easy as if the boat was docked and I can fish several lakes without much effort. The only issue I've had is it is getting to be a bit of a chore to launch and recover and my fishing buddies have either passed or moved to warmer climates. So I fish alone a lot. My boat is an 18'11" fiberglass with a 150 Merc. It is old but has served me well and I've been fortunate enough to have a garage to keep it out of the weather. I have been fortunate to fish a variety of lakes from Rainy and Lake of the Woods amoung many others in the north country, to St. Clair on both sides of the border, Also been to Dale Hollow and for largies Big O, Eaufaula, AL, Reelfoot and several other southern places. Frankly, if Winni's boat traffic wasn't so insane Winni would probably be my all time favorite. Shoot me a PM at any time .

Sorry about that must have been a senior moment. No it wor't work way too much press fit interference. I worked for a seal company for over 30 years and I repeat go to a bearing supply house with your old seal and have them reccomend a replacement.

The 2.388 O.D. should not work at all. It will just fall out of the seal counter bore. Take the old seal to a bearing supply house and have them provide you with proper sized seals.

I have Cocoons in amber and "Fit Overs" brand in grey. I like the Fit Overs better but the Cocoons are ok!

Since I'm a C&R guy and don't fish T's I love for them to jump but when they do I pull them strongly but not an actual jerk to put them back into the water.

I have used Vanish since it was first introduced with no problems. It is my preferred fluorocarbon although I do use some BPS because of cost.