rippin-lips

If you need a left handed reel, I have a brand new Curado dc 7:4:1 with upgrades for sale in the marketplace.

You could mix up some clear epoxy and put on that spot. Clear nail polish would work as a quick fix too. I’d very very carefully take a razor blade and cut/score around the area and peel off the lifted epoxy. Not sure if that part is something required but it makes sense to me. It would give it a place to stop peeling. Kinda like rust repair on a car. You have to go further out than just where the rust is.

I ordered through Tackle Trap in AL. It’s not on my possession yet. That’s the Avail handle. It shipped out today. I was waiting for some parts for it from Shimano. This was a finished pic after he installed them. If I don’t then I’ll sell it ha. Not sure of the brand. They’re are just plastic ones from overseas. I have a handful that I got on eBay.

Curado DC with a few subtle changes.

OP - if it’s going to be a production rod then the nrx and the new conquest rods are at the top. Newer glx isn’t a huge step down in sensitivity from the nrx either. Personally, I’d have a custom built on a point blank or K2 rod blank. Hard to beat a rod that is designed from the blank up just for you.

12-13oz combo. Ooh my wrist ? Has to be a 5.5oz reel with a 3oz rod to not be considered heavy these days.

Exactly, and that’s the problem with not doing your own research and wanting the answers fed to you. It’s green, not bronze.

It’s actually green and not bronze. Shimano even says it has green accents. You can see that in the picture google so kindly provided me with in a few seconds.

You can find multiple videos of the reel in action on youtube. That will answer your question about the whine noise. You can also find 100’s of images on google at different angles and lighting. Just look at a handful of them to see what color the parts are. Both answers are easily obtainable in the time it took you to make this thread. I’m sure someone will come along and give you the information though.

Yes, that’s the correct part. Your SV103 spool already has the upgraded lower (white) inductor ramp, so you don’t need it. You don’t always need the stiffer spring but it’s worth getting it to have. Just incase you don’t get the results you’re looking for out of the inductor alone. I machined .40 thousandths off my SV103 inductor to make it match the zillion 1016 one. Definitely helped out a good bit, and that was without the spring. Swapped to an actual zillion 1016 inductor and it was even better. The zillion has a lower mounting base so it allows it to not go as far into the magnetic field. Some spools really wake up with just a spring swap and others need more than that. Sometimes the inductor swap can have negative results also. I recently put the zillion 1016 inductor on my Steez sv tw 1016 spool and it performed worse. It made it really wild and too hard to control. To get it controllable the brakes had to be too high and distance suffered bad. Now the zillion 1016 sv spool in the Steez sv tw 1016 actually performs better than the stock spool. Confused yet haha. It will help out your spool and give you a more user friendly spool and also gain you a little bit of extra distance.

Setting 1 is for ideal conditions. Setting 2 is for braid and mono. They also say to set the tension a hair tight. Should be some instructions in the box.

Just open it up and remove the drag stack from the main gear. Lay each piece out left right and work backwards when putting it back on the main gear. You are just swapping out the 3 washers for better material ones. 702 is light imo but we have different preferences for rods. The 703 is labeled as a mh but Dobyns run 1 power lighter when fished. So it’s really a medium. I did enjoy that rod when I owned it. Yes, I have an ito too. Great reel but can be a pain to find in good shape. Just have to keep an eye out.

Yeah, the drag install is an easy job. I have multiple spools for mine. I switch them out here and there. Currently I’m running the zillion 1016 sv with spring mod.

@fishwizzard the stock tdz drag pressure is not that strong to begin with. A set of carbontex washers will help it out though. You can send it to Bryan at The Tackle Trap and he will take care of you. I had him do everything to mine that I just posted.

Started life as a boring 103ml. The line guide is painted.

Long wait but well worth it!

Where I pre ordered from got a small shipment of regular 6:2:1 right handers. No lefties yet though. I’m one of the first batch of lefties to go out when they arrive.

I know they had some bad spools of floroclear out on the shelves. I have personally not tried it but I know a lot of people who have and still continue to use it without issues. I tried #12 cxx and it stunk imo for manageability. If I’m using a non braided line I just stick with #12 or #15 big game. Hasn’t failed me yet. If it ain’t broke...

P-line Floroclear is a decent line for the money. It’s like $15 for 600 yards. Definitely not a true fluorocarbon though. You can pick up a 300 yard spool for $8 to try it out. Not out much if you don’t like it.

Try waiting on one to arrive from Japan, knowing that’s what it’s being shipped in. Add in the fact it’s not made anymore and is a $650 rod. Talk about being worried.

What’s it for? I’ll give you $10 for it shipped. It is broken.

I’ve done more than I can remember and still each time I say to myself “why did I decide to do this again” If I had a 3rd hand it would be so much easier.

Nothing really planned for it. I have an Avail 90mm handle on the way for it and I’m mounting it on a 7’2 mh Expride. Might swap out the drag star down the road but I plan on it being an all purpose bank beater combo. We shall see though once it arrives. It might be so great that it finds itself in my top 4 that I use most often.

I personally think they will end up redesigning it at some point. Like how they made some small changes to the 110 when it came out. A friend and I both used ours the other evening for a few hours. Neither of us experienced any rolling or swimming on its side. Our experience was it needed to be reeled fairly fast to get it to plop. The other thing we noticed was sometimes it would plop real easily and others it didn’t have that distinct plopping sound to it. This is the first run of the 75 and I think they’re some small issues that need ironed out still. I tried the swivel method after seeing it on a bassresource video, but all it did was make my plopper barrel roll. Opposite of what it should have done haha.

Here’s something to make it super easy. Stick to the top two reel manufacturers ( Daiwa and Shimano) and pick one that receives high praise for performance/value and offers the features you like. As the old saying goes K.I.S.S Daiwa tatula ct Daiwa tatula sv Fuego ct Shimano Caenan Shimano Curado K Shimano Citica I