TriCityBassin'

1st Strike 2nd Strike 3rd jump My stuff gets a LOT of eyes on it. As such I keep it old school and don't share locations. Sorry, I hope you can understand.

Yep, got the whole thing on multiple gopro! There were 3 of us fishing. It hit a Choppo 3 times and waked on the 1st! Got all three hits plus the jump immediately after the hookup! That is a gopro, I mount them into the brim of my hat so I can fish as normal and don't have hands in my shots like you would if it was a chest mount.

I have to chime in on this one LOL. Assuming no maps, no electronics, no phone. Look at your vegitation on the bank. Different vegetation types will help you. more Pine trees generally denotes the area being sandier. Sandier will facilitate better spawning habitat for bream, bass, etc. Gum trees in my area (Va) grow in boggy wet bottoms or lower areas. If these are on the banks that area is more likely to be shallower close to the bank with a soft bottom. Learn to read the vegetation in the water. Thinner areas within an area of vegetation may mean a depth change and that area is deeper. using this method in lilly pad fields help to identify deeper gullies used by beavers or where the old creek or spring is. This works the same in Hydrilla but not as well since it can grow so deep. Vegetation type is also a big thing. Reeds, cattails, hydrilla, lilly pads, etc. all have a preferred bottom substrate. Lilly pads love mud/muck, Hydrilla likes everthing, Cattails like mud as well. I am not super versed on this but the oracle would have that information. Look for different colors in the vegetation or a change in type/mixed types. When reading the topography look for features on the bank, they extend into the water. If you see something (rock, point, etc) extended into the water, look across the lake for a matching feature. If you see it, you just found a saddle or structure element that extends the distance between them. that is all I have right now. I fish a lot with my electronics off on purpose. Keeping the old skills is important.

I have to re size these, sorry if they look wierd.

So close to a VA citation Smallmouth!

Agree on build. Not concerned about the whine. Used Curado DC are hard to find...probably says something about build quality. I was trying to be cheaper, that $200 is the lowest I've seen on the Curado. I found a pawn shop that had one for 175...but then they wanted 15 to ship it. thanks for the input, I will keep looking and seeing if i can squeeze my budget.

HGN, Hagane is cold forged gears and frame that is super rigid and tight. It's a feature on the better Shimano reels. thanks for the insight, I had no idea those reels were bad. That is prob why so many available. Do you know the specific problems?

I want a Shimano DC reel for myself (and mainly for my son to use). I am looking at the SLX DC ($190) or a used 2011 Shimano Scorpion DC7 ($165). Considering that Shimano had to cut cost somewhere on the SLX Models...I've used them and they are good. I know the Scorpion is solid with great bearings, etc but its old and doesn't have the HGN body. I guess part of me just doesn't want the SLX Model but can't afford a new Curado DC LOL. What do you guys think.

No, never been to that site! Thanks I have a shallow spool on a jdm reel that has the same (looks like) frame as the caenan, casitas. But the casts are unstoppable. 4 red brake weights. I'll put a picture up later. This gave me the idea.

Great!!! Has anyone swapped a BFS or MGL spool into a curado or citica? The lower end and really high end Shimanos have that option in JDM.

Can we talk about reel mods here or does it belong somewhere else?

I have several casitas. They do flex with the load from a heavy stick, wad of hydrilla and a fish. I switched punching and frogging to a citica. For me cost is a concern. The older citica g7 cam be had on Ebay for good prices.

oooooo....that is so obvious. face=palm

"Tinker Bell" Fairy wands are powerful