Hanover_Yakker

Are you looking for custom or off the rack? A decent rod for the money but can be considered a little tip-heavy is the TFO Signature Series rods (designed by Gary Loomis) that retail for $99 (BPS). I had the saltwater version and used it for speckled trout and schoolie stripers and liked it. I know several smallmouth kayak guides in PA and MD that use them religiously and for all of their clients. Another good one is the new Fenwick Elite Tech Smallmouth Series of rods (casting or spinning) - http://www.fenwickfishing.com/cat.php?k=472009&sk=472009

Pull up a chair and get comfortable, this is going to be a little long winded........ I posted the majority of this content in another thread but I'll alter some of the content relative to your price range...... As an avid kayak angler, I feel I can offer several tidbits of information based upon personal experience and having paddled a variety of different kayaks. My first piece of advice is to browse the various kayak forums for information and reviews on different kayak styles and models. Second, check out your local kayak shop and get several hands on days to check out the various models. Third, schedule a demo or check with other kayakers in the area (the forums are great for this) and meet up with a few of them to try out theirs. If you do this, make it a point to take a notepad with you in your car, so that you can summarize your experience when you are done. All of these pieces of information will go a long way ot helping you make your decision. With that said, your initial thoughts on a SOT (Sit On Top) over a SINK (Sit INside Kayak) are correct relative to safety, but SINKs have their place and are very useful (the Wilderness Pungo 120 and Jackson Kayak Daytrippers are favorites of several people I know). The one factor that is often overlooked and in my opinion the most critical is COMFORT!!! If you sit in a kayak in the store and are uncomfortable within the first few minutes, imagine how you are going to feel after an hour? 2? 4?, etc...... The only way to truly figure all this stuff out is paddle as many different varieties as possible in different water conditions. You mentioned the OK Tetra 12 and the Redfish 12 - have you paddled or sat in either one of these kayaks? I can tell you that they are completely different from one another. Additionally, the factory seat on both kayaks is not much and will need to be upgraded which lends itself to additional funds being spent. With that said, the next step is to take into consideration your current fishing style and future desires or styles you will make an honest effort or investment in pursuing. What I mean here is what is your preferred style of fishing you do 75-80% of the time? If you are a fly fisherman, then your kayak choices may differ from someone who is a live liner and soacks minnows all day long, just like it would differ from someone who fished tidal creeks and large saltwater bays and sounds - kayak length will be a huge factor here. Here are some of the factors about you to consider: 1. Fishing equipment - are you a gear junkie that carries everything you own or can you scale back to 2-3 rods with a couple tackle trays and maybe a binder or bag for soft plastics. 2. Physical abilities - any limitations in range of movement, flexibility? Shoulder, back, knees, foot arches, etc. are all considerations that factor into which kayak to decide upon. 3. Method of transporting the kayak - do you have a truck? If not, then you might need some form of rack system for the top of your vehicle. Additional costs to keep in mind. 4. Method of storing the kayak - it is not recommended to just leave any kayak on the ground or hard flat surface. It is also not advisable to leave it out in the sun unprotected. 5. Method of launching the kayak - not all locations have a dedicated hand launch or ramp close, so you may need a cart of some form to transport your kayak to the water's edge. Also, unless you have afriend that will be fishing with you, you won't have anyone to help you load or unload the kayak! 6. Additional safety equipment required - a Class III PFD (required), a properly sized paddle, a handheld VHF radio (saltwater only), a light visible from 360 degrees, cold water gear if you plan on fishing in water temps below 60 degrees and air temps below 60, etc. 7. Other accessories - paddle leashes, rod holders, rod leashes or floats, crate or tackle storage of some form, kayak straps to secure the kayak, etc. When it comes time to start narrowing down your choices, it is time to start thinking about the various styles of kayaks and their uses. There are several models out there in your proce range that you could consider.....Keep in mind the models listed are just a sampling of ones to look at....... Jackson - Coosa, Cuda 12 or Daytripper (SINK) Wilderness Systems - Tarpon 100/120/140, Commander 120 (hybrid), Ride 115, Native Watercraft - Manta Ray 11/12 (best factory seat on the market in a SOT), Slayer 12, Ultimate 12 (hybrid) Ocean Kayak - Trident 11/13, Tetra 10/12, Scrambler or Drifter (used most likely) NuCanoe - Frontier, Classic(it really is a canoe at heart and has no scuppers or automatic bailing system like other hybrids) Mad River Canoe - basically a rotomolded canoe, not really a kayak. KC Diablo Paddlesports Emotion Mojo Moken Hurricane - Phoenix 120 or Skimmer 120 Perception (older Tarpon mold) - Pescador or Sport Caster (Gander and Dicks sell them) Pompano 120 - West Marine branded older Tarpon mold Ascend - Bass Pro Shops branded (tends to be a little heavy) Field & Stream - Dick's Sporting Goods brand (decent reviews from various forums that I have read - not sure on durability) If you are diligent in your testing sessions, you will notice that certain platforms will transfer to various bodies of water with little or no limitations. Now, if you are cost conscious, there are several options to consider: Demo kayaks - your local kayak store will have last year's models and the ones they rent out or use at demo days at a deeply discounted price. Craigslist - winter time is the perfect time to get one used - this is the time of year when people learn they need more space in the garage and are not as interested as they were in summer. You had mentioned that you would rather not rig the kayak yourself. I can tell you from personal experience that most angler models or pre-rigged models are not really laid out for individual tastes. For many folks, the location of rod holders is a personal preference that pre-rigged doesn't satisfy and cannot be changed for the most part (technically it can but requires additional plastic and a plastic welder). The best method to determine where you want rod holders is to paddle a stripped down kayak and take one rod and a jar of vaseline with you. Coat the butt cap with a dallop of vaseline before you launch. While sitting in the kayak facing forward, grab the rod and mimic the act of stowing your rod in a rod holder. This entails you trying to place the rod behind you without turning your body completely around. When you think you have it right, tap the butt end of the rod to the area of the kayak and the residue of the vaseline will remain on the hull as a reference point. When you get back to shore, you can take a permanent black marker or a small piece of duct tape and mark the spot. With that said, the best method to rig your kayak I have seen and still provide yourself with the ability to change your layout is via the use of a new kayak accessory called the GearTrac - it is a track based accessory that allows you to interchange various rod holders, fish finder mounts, camera mounts, etc around your kayak. I currently have two GearTracs installed on my hull with a third mounted atop my crate assembly. I am getting ready to install two more but will be using the new GT90 smaller profile series just released. I currently have mine setup to handle my FF, camera mount and a rod holder up front, a camera pole on the crate, and the new tracs will hold two trolling rod holders right behind my seat. The beauty of the GearTrac setup is that you can change your configuration on the water if you find something doesn't work the way you had planned. Check out the various accessories and products at the main site - http://yakattack.us You can also see how I have setup my kayak using these accessories here: http://froggin4bass.blogspot.com/2012/02/time-to-get-in-gear.html If you have any questions, don't be afraid to ask. Hope you find all of this helpful. Good luck.

PowerTeam Lures JP Hammer Shad recently, but I use to use the Berkley Gulp! Minnow in the 3-4" variety.

Great point - often times the action of a jig hopping off the bank into the water is what will alert or trigger a response. I've caught several largemouth this way. Same approach I use when working any soft plastic, including a topwater frog.

Presentation size can be critical. Many of my kayaking friends in the MD/PA region use small profile soft plastics and basically dead stick them. We're talking about 2" tubes, 2.5" craws, 3" stickbaits, baby flukes, etc. They will cast them beyond the top of a seam current and let it slowly work back towards them right into the current break and wait. Another lure to consider is a LC Pointer 67/78 and be prepared for L-O-N-G pauses with very subtle twitches. Sometimes the pause is in excess of 30 seconds or more. The trick here is the concept of who blinks first, you or the fish. If you blink or twitch the bait to soon, the fish wins.

I would opt for a Shimano Clarus series rod in that price range - they are $79 at my local Bass Pro and come in a variety of lengths and sizes. I currently have two of the worm n jig model - one casting that is a MH/Fast and one spinning that is a Med/XF. They are built on IM-9 blanks and come with an OTC Lifetime Warranty. Not the Dobyns, Legends, Powells, and other models I would like but they get the job done pretty well for me. Also keep in mind that at the $100 price point, you could step up a little bit into $110 and snag the new style of the Shimano Crucials that are $109 at BPS as well with lifetime warranties.

I have a combo that rarely gets used with the type of fishing I do, but I wanted to see what others thought of in the way of possible uses for the combo. Keep in mind that I do not have technique specific combos. All of my combos are used in both fresh and salt water. The combo is question is: Shimano Curado 200 DPV (5.3:1) and a Shimano Crucial Swimbait (the new model with the split grip) rod 7'11" MH/Fast - rated @ 3-5oz. The reel is currently spooled with 50lb. PP braid, but that is not set in stone if the masses here can help me develop a plan Thoughts?

I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on the MGX after a 1/4 season of usage. I have a kayak friend in NC who is a loyal Daiwa user but always tries new things. He said he liked it and it performed well, but he preferred the feel of his Pixy and Steez. No reel difference in performance.

Like Bluebasser and roadwarrior - the AVIDs are awesome. I have a 6'8" M/XF casting model I have paired with my Revo Inshore, because I use the rod also in the saltwater for flounder, stripers, specks and reds. When I am using it as a jerkbait rod, although the reel is spooled with 30lb. PP braid, I use a leader at least 3-4' in length. Doesn't appear to affect the presentation on my LC SP78's or MirrOlures one bit!

Only one for me this year albeit in saltwater but it was caught two weeks ago the day before Thanksgiving out of a kayak....... A 21.5" Speckled Trout

How recently did that area die off? If it was recent, the water in that area may be starved for oxygen. Happens in lakes with grass and pads in my neck of the woods.

As an avid kayak angler, I feel I can offer several tidbits of information based upon personal experience and having paddled a variety of different kayaks. My first piece of advice is to browse the various kayak forums for information and reviews on different kayak styles and models. Second, check out your local kayak shop and get several hands on days to check out the various models. Third, schedule a demo or check with other kayakers in the area (the forums are great for this) and meet up with a few of them to try out theirs. If you do this, make it a point to take a notepad with you in your car, so that you can summarize your experience when you are done. All of these pieces of information will go a long way ot helping you make your decision. With that said, your initial thoughts on a SOT (Sit On Top) over a SINK (Sit INside Kayak) are correct relative to safety, but SINKs have their place and are very useful (the Wilderness Pungo 120 and Jackson Kayak Daytrippers are favorites of several people I know). With that said, the next step is to take into consideration your current fishing style and future desires or styles you will make an honest effort or investment in pursuing. What I mean here is what is your preferred style of fishing you do 75-80% of the time? If you are a fly fisherman, then your kayak choices may differ from someone who is a live liner and soacks minnows all day long, just like it would differ from someone who fished tidal creeks and large saltwater bays and sounds - kayak length will be a huge factor here. Here are some of the factors about you to consider: 1. Fishing equipment - are you a gear junkie that carries everything you own or can you scale back to 2-3 rods with a couple tackle trays and maybe a binder or bag for soft plastics. 2. Physical abilities - any limitations in range of movement, flexibility? Shoulder, back, knees, foot arches, etc. are all considerations that factor into which kayak to decide upon. 3. Method of transporting the kayak - do you have a truck? If not, then you might need some form of rack system for the top of your vehicle. Additional costs to keep in mind. 4. Method of storing the kayak - it is not recommended to just leave any kayak on the ground or hard flat surface. It is also not advisable to leave it out in the sun unprotected. 5. Method of launching the kayak - not all locations have a dedicated hand launch or ramp close, so you may need a cart of some form to transport your kayak to the water's edge. Also, unless you have afriend that will be fishing with you, you won't have anyone to help you load or unload the kayak! 6. Additional safety equipment required - a Class III PFD (required), a properly sized paddle, a handheld VHF radio (saltwater only), a light visible from 360 degrees, cold water gear if you plan on fishing in water temps below 60 degrees and air temps below 60, etc. 7. Other accessories - paddle leashes, rod holders, rod leashes or floats, crate or tackle storage of some form, kayak straps to secure the kayak, etc. When it comes time to start narrowing down your choices, it is time to start thinking about the various styles of kayaks and their uses. There are several models out there that are designed for specific purpose.....Keep in mind the models listed are just a sampling of ones to look at....... Paddle based kayaks...... River/Creeks - look for kayaks in the 10-12 foot range (Jackson Coosa, Tarpon 100/120, Commander 120, Ride 115, Native Manta Ray 11/12, Slayer 12 or Ultimate 12, Ocean Kayak Trident 11 or Tetra 10/12, Diablo Paddlesports, etc) Ponds/small lakes - kayaks in the 12-14 foot range (Jackson Cuda 12, Tarpon 120/140, Commander140, Ride 135, Native Slayer 12/14 or Ultimate 14, Ocean Kayak Trident 13, Prowler Big Game, etc) Large Reservoirs - any kayak in the 13 foot or larger (Cuda 12 or 14, Tarpon 140/160, Commander 140, Slayer 14 or Ultimate 14, Trident 13/15, etc.) Saltwater - same as large reservoirs. Non-paddle (you provide propulsion via another means) Ocean Kayak - Torque series (Minn Kota based) Native - Mariner and Propel series Hobie - mirage drive based kayaks Other - addition of a kit from Torqueedo,, BassYaks, etc to any of the kayaks on the market. If you are diligent in your testing sessions, you will notice that certain platforms will transfer to various bodies of water with little or no limitations. Now, if you are cost conscious, there are several options to consider: Demo kayaks - your local kayak store will have last year's models and the ones they rent out or use at demo days at a deeply discounted price. Perception Pescador and Sport Caster are 2008 Wilderness Systems molds sold to Perception - same hulls as the old Tarpon and Ride series Pompano - West Marine branded hull using the same molds as Perception Ascend - Bass Pro Shops branded kayaks (tend to be a litte on the heavy side compared to other brands of similar/same size) Craigslist - winter time is the perfect time to get one used - this is the time of year when people learn they need more space in the garage and are not as interested as they were in summer The one factor that is often overlooked and in my opinion the most critical is COMFORT!!! If you sit in a kayak in the store and are uncomfortable within the first few minutes, imagine how you are going to feel after an hour? 2? 4?, etc...... The only way to truly figure all this stuff out is paddle as many different varieties as possible in different water conditions. If you have any questions, don't be afraid to ask. Hope you find all of this helpful. Good luck.

I was going to recommend P-Line CXX - one of my personal faves, but they also have another one that I use frequently, Flouroclear. Been using it now for 3 years. Another one that may not get the praise but is very good is the Bass Pro XPS Extreme flourocarbon. Not a bad line for the price and pretty durable.

Here's one for you - take a 3/4 oz spinnerbait with a large silver colorado blade and cast it as far as you can. For murky water, tie on one with a black skirt, for clearer water use a white one and a chartreuse one for slightly stained or murky water. Let it fall all the way to the bottom and crawl it ever so slowly with only the occasional raise/lift. You should feel every turn of the blade if you are doing it correctly. Make sure you fish it on a reel designed for deep cranking and the right rod. My kayak angling friends do this for both smallies and largemouth. Needless to say, several citations have been caught during the months of DEC-FEB each year.

I can tell you from a couple personal conversations I have had with a fellow kayaker who tried out a couple. His conversations with people in the know had discovered some inconsistencies with the productions quality of the reels most likely attributed to the high demand for the product after it was announced at iCAST. I have not heard anything further save for the individual went back to their Daiwa Coastals instead. Not sure if that was due to unsatisfactory performance or just preference for their Coastals but take it for what its worth.

Ok.....last one until I can get out and chase some more bass. Here's one from a few weeks ago where the weather was in the 70's for a third day in a row after a quick cold snap a few days prior. Not much in the way of size other than the nice 17.5" LMB at the start of the video, but it was a productive day. I was finally able to capture a frog strike at the 2:42 mark on video - look at the shadows on the right mid-frame to see it. Enjoy!

This is exactly the setup/approach I use when I head out on the water every time and in the kayak tournaments I enter - simplicity is the best option. One additional suggection for the treble hook rod is to tie on a #2 snap of some form to facilitate rapid changes of lure colors and sizes until you dial in the pattern. Then you can tie direct if you choose.

Another rod to consider is a Shimano Clarus Worm n Jig rod. It is a 7'2" rod on an IM9 blank with a split grip and is a Medium power Extra Fast action rod. I have mine with a Stradic 3000FJ, but a Symmetre would be a nice choice as well. The rod sells at Bass Pro for $79.99 right off the rack.

A great fall day testing out some new to me lures. Best fish were: 17.5" LMB & a 20.5" channel cat (bleh)

Strike King King Shad and 10" power worms.

I target many different species during the course of the year in both fresh and salt water. Here's a day I spent with my buddy Darren on a local fresh water creek here in VA chasing crappie, pickerel and anything else that would chase our presentations. Enjoy!!

Enjoy!!

I have no qualms against the Citicas like mentioned before. My recommendation would be to break the Citica down as soon as you get it and "clean it" to remove all the extra grease and lube they put on it straight out of the box. Once you do that, it will be one of your favorite reels. As a loyal Abu owner, I have 2 1st Gen Revo S reels and a Revo Inshore and love them both. I use mine in both fresh and salt and can tell you I have no complaints. I fish regularly alongside other kayakers that are loyal Shimano users and can tell you firsthand that many of my friends were amazed at the difference in drag functionality compared to their Citicas and upper end Curados when fighting equivalent sized saltwater species. It may not make a huge difference when you fish for bass or stick to freshwater only, but I can tell you from personal experience in the saltwater for the last 3 years and with great confidence that my Revo Inshore's and Revo S' drag will out perform a stock Citica right out of the box and three years later regardless of feel. The key is proper off the water maintenance after every trip. I lock the drags down, then use a warm water rinse after every trip to clean my reels. I'll loosen the drags and hang them upside down to allow them to drip dry. My original Revo S purchased over 7 years ago still works flawlessly, and it has been used in the saltwater now almost exclusively for the past 3 years. Now with that said, I owuld most likely opt for the new Citica G only because I prefer the old school centrifugal braking systems than the new version that Abu has now in their Revo line. While I have every confidence the new braking system will work, I prefer the older style. Just personal preference - yours may vary. Before I get chastised as an Abu homer, I also own a Curado 200 DPV and Calcutta 200B and love them just as much, and am saving some cash to snag a Chronarch or two in the near fuiture, but for now my Revo reels are the choice when it comes to saltwater inshore for me. They just happen to rock in freshwater too!

Awesome tip Goose - I have an U/L with a white or chartreuse bodied rooster tail always tied on. I'm making this mod as soon as I get home!!

Wow - that's a nice surprise indeed. Look carefully, you may have a few collector's items in there......