Hanover_Yakker

1. Stanley Ribbit (regular size not the Bull Ribbit) - four go-to colors (Watermelon Pearl, Black, Catalpa and Louisiana Craw) 2. Traditional Texas rig using an Aqua Dreams 4/0 swimbait hook (Mustad hook) 3. Weightless (the frogs have enough weight already, but a slow sink followed by a painfully slow retrieve can be deadly pre-spawn.....)

I have been a loyal and heavy user of the 2500 Sienna for the last 9 years. For $21.99 in a sealed pack from Bass Pro, the price is hard to beat. I use mine in both fresh and salt water and have no issues at all. Now, if you are looking for a little better, then the Sahara would be my recommendation. You can get a 2500 for right at $70. As with any reel, proper care willhelp preserve it for the long haul. I use a gentle warm water rinse on mine after every use.

If it were me, I would go to West Marine online and order their Pompano 120. It is the same mold as the Tarpon 120, and you can get it new for under your price limit and have it shipped to store at no charge. Another option this time of year as stated early on is Craigslist and your local kayak shop for end of season demo sales or people that changed their minds and need the garage space. You can find great deals this way. One thing to remember is that even though your budget is $500, you need to account for some additional costs that cannot be overlooked. 1. Paddle - get the best you can afford (an Aqua Bound Manta Ray Cardon is a good first paddle) 2. PFD - make sure you get one that is adjustable to your size and one that is comfortable. If it doesn't fit, you won't wear it. 3. Carrying system - some opt for just the Malone foam blocks and straps. I personally recommend a rack system if you can afford it. If not, the factory crossbars will work fine, you can cover them with a pool noodle. 4. Dry bag - to hold an extra change of clothes and an on the water emergency kit to hold some key survival items (don't knock this until you understand it completely) 5. Waterproof containers - Plano Guide Series are good, but a Rubbermaid container will work. It will be used to hold your cell phone, spare key, fishing license and perhaps a spare set of clippers, forceps, chapstick, aspirin, etc.)

The Heritage line of kayaks is now owned by Native Watercraft. Their hulls trend to be more flat and are very stable; however, they can be a bear to paddle in wind and current. A friend of mine had one for years until they started to fish in salt water more. They quickly switched over to an Ocean Kayak Trident 13 that was more maneuverable and easier to paddle over the course of a long day. If you are sticking to ponds and not paddling that much, then either the Pescador or Redfish 12 would be serviceable. I personally would recommend stepping up and getting a newer Tarpon 140, Native Manta Ray or Ride 135. 13' hulls are very functional for a variety of locations and they provide sufficient storage space as well as plenty of room for a dys worth of tackle. Whatever kayak you are interested in, I cannot emphasize enough the importance of actual seat time on the water for more than 5-10 minutes. When you test one out, make sure you get the seat and foot pegs set correctly. Also make sure you are wearing the same style PFD you will be using. That way, you can truly assess your overall comfort level while paddling the kayak. If you are uncomfortable in the kayak assuming the other factors mentioned are equal, then imagine how uncomfortable you would feel 2 miles from shore fishing.......

The Perception Pescador is the old 2008 Wilderness Systems Tarpon 120 mold sold by Confluence to Perception. It is a proven hull and is a good kayak; however, it has a few design considerations to keep in mind. First, the hull is a traditional rounded hull with very little chining. That means the primary stability may feel a little tippy to the novice paddler while seated. Second, the hull is not traditionally for those interested in standing and fishing. I've done it in a Tarpon 120 and 140 before, but it took some practice. Third, the hull is not great for long distance paddling or heavy current. It turns very easy on you in windy conditions with little or no warning requiring additional paddling corrections. Fourth, because of the hull design, re-entry of this kayak can be a little challenging for those unfamiliar with self rescue. I highly recommend practicing this technique supervised before heading out in any kayak. Fifth, the seating position is not the best after a couple hours, but the addition of a simple inflatable donut from Walmart or CVS cures that problem. I use one and frequently fish for over 8 hours at a time. Regardless of what kayak you end up getting, I would recommend reaching out to your local outdoor outfitter or kayak rental location and seek out a class on basic paddling and self rescue skills.

I personally prefer the SPRO Arukua Jr Shads myself, but I have a couple SK Red Eyes as well that have caught both largemouth and smallmouth.

Welcome aboard - as a fellow kayak angler from Central VA, it's good to have you onboard.

Here's a note I sent to a fellow BR member who had a similar question.......... The important thing to understand with kayaks in general is that not all of the hulls have the same functionality or purpose. Some hulls are wide for stability but can be a bear to paddle. Some hulls are very narrow and fast but are a little less stable and not always easy to stand in. The key is to find a balance of both attributes while still being able to enjoy your time on the water. Your question about seats is kind of a loaded question, because up until the last year, most factory kayak seats left a lot to be desired. The only line of kayaks under the $1000 price point with a comfortable seat was the Native Ultimate and Manta Rays. While most kayak seats are fine for a 2 hour outing, anything longer than that would require frequent stops to stretch your legs and your back. Some factory seat positions and footwell layouts are so difficult to get comfortable in that your legs or feet fall asleep. A perfect example of that would be the Perception Pescador or Native Redfish where your legs and seat are basically flat. You can always spend the extra cash and upgrade your seating to an upscale model like the Surf To Summit GTS Expedition, etc. but that involves and additional $125-200 outlay depending upon whay you opt for. With that said, the last year has seen a significant focus by the industry as a whole on improving the kayak seating features on the various brands of kayaks out there. The models that come to mind are: Jackson (Coosa & Cuda), Wilderness Systems (Commander series, plus the new Air Ride seat they offer for their Ride line), Native Watercraft (Ultimate, Slayer and Manta Ray) and the high end Hobie Pro Angler series with the new Vantage seating. All of these are good choices from a seating perspective, but they each differ in their overall stability, handling and tracking characteristics. As far as the hull designs, the hulls with pontoon style hulls tend to be more stable than others, but new models like the Ride series have design characteristics like deeper chines that provide a good level of stability. Now, as far as kayak types - SOT, SINK and the other types you may not be aware of are the hybrid and alternative propulsion models. SOTs or Sit On Tops provide a great level of safety, because they are designed to drain any water that enters the kayak via the integrated scupper holes. SINKs or Sit INside Kayaks do not have any form of integrated scuppers or drainage capabilities save for turning them over or manually via a small hand operated bilge (common accessory that several of my friends carry with them, so don't let that scare you). The hybrids are an interesting choice, becaase they offer the stability of pontoon style hulls with a seating position similar to a canoe, but still provide good tracking and speed characterisitics (Native Ultimate & Tegris models or Wilderness Systems Commanders). The other option is a hull that has alternative propulsion methods. This can be either via manual propulsion (Native Mariner or Hobie Mirage drive kayaks) or powered (Ocean Kayak Torque, Native Propel or adding a powered solution from Torqueedo or Bass Yaks designed for a specific hull - most common one is the Wilderness Commander). If you are going to be loading the kayak manually on top of your vehicle, then weight is a concern and hulls that weigh over 70 lbs. may be a challenge unless you opted for a load assist bar from Yakima, Thule Hullavator or the new T-Bar system from Rhino Racks. If you opt for one of these systems, then kayak weight is no that much of a concern. I know my next vehicle will most likely have the Rhino Rack system, so I can then purchase a Hobie Pro Angler 12 or 14. Regarding rod storage/carrying capabilities - rods can be carried in a number of ways: via crate assembly with an integrated 3 rod holder (what I use right now), via rod holders installed behind the seat (most kayaks can accommodate 2-4 angled rod holders - a friend of mine actually has 3 on each side for a total of 6 plus a 3 rod holder on his crate pack, the other option is via rod holders that are attached above the hull (typically RAM, Scotty or Cannon mounts). Your ability to carry rods is only limited by what you are willing to do to accommodate your needs. Just remember - the more rods you carry, the more chances of getting tangled up or possibly spending too much time switching rods versus dialing in on the fish. A common mistake in tournaments from watching other kayak anglers. The one exception to these statements is for two specific models of kayaks - the Jackson Cuda or Coosa and the Hobie Pro Angler series. The Jackson models have what they call rod stagers that basically place the rod butts a top a bungee under the hi/lo seating and stage the rod tips in small molded cutouts in front of the footwell. The Hobie Pro Anglers have integrated rod tubes that can accommodate up to 6 rods (including fly rods) on the PA14 and up to 4 rods (including fly rods) on the PA12. You mentioned that you would like to stand - the ability to stand and sight fish at certain times of the year would be a key variable to consider - that would lend my recommendation to one of the following models: Native Watercraft Ultimate 12 or 14.5 & Slayer 12 or 14, Jackson Cuda 12 or 14, Wilderness Commander 120/140, Ride 135 or the Hobie Pro Anglers. With the Native, Jackson or Wilderness models, you could contact BassYaks and order the specific powered motor option you desire. The Pro Angler you would use your legs to power the PA and leave your hands free to fish (very advantageous in current and wind). As an individual that has shoulder problems and a less than perfect back, I love my Hobie Revolution 13 and one of the reasons I am proud to represent them as the Local Pro Staffer in Central VA. Just remember that the addition of any powered form of propulsion will most likely require registration per your respective state's requirements. As far as storage capabilities, the hybrids and the Pro Angler offer the most flexibility to carry a cooler and additional gear. With that said, there are several custom DIY mods that folks have done to blend these needs. A common one I see is using the medium ractangular Coleman coolers and attaching a 3-4 rod holder on the back or sides using s/s hardware and then using small tackle bags or binders for their other gear. Most rear tankwells have a bungee system of some form that will permit securing items to some extent. For me personally, I have two crate systems both involve using the Coleman Snack Mate personal cooler (hold a lunch, snacks and a few bottles of water but small enough to stow up front in my bow hatch or in the tankwell behind my seat). I also have a soft sided Hobie cooler that I stow the same way. My two setups are: a standard milk crate with a 3-rod holder attached via the Precision Pak crate mate sleeve, and then I have a Flambeau medium sized marine case to store my tackle trays inside and just carry my rods in the integrated rod holders on my Revolution 13 and in the rod holders I attach up front using YakAttack GearTracs. Here's my fishing vessel of choice right now..... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-50Q1_6Ell5Q/UAygshIQVHI/AAAAAAAACK8/5VgT9Ia0RFQ/s1024/P7220017.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ti4KrNp0VG0/T5VCR6KiUrI/AAAAAAAABwA/Q65o73c1NMA/s1024/SAM_1428.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-S4MzazrlPOk/UFzYauwfo6I/AAAAAAAACns/2pE4TAnxEjg/s1024/P9210003.JPG I hope this helped answer some of your questions. Chuck

I'll be there all three days - stop by and see me. I'll be at the Appomattox River Company booth in the back and will be onsite with my Hobie Revolution 13 fully rigged. I'd love to chat with some of you and put a face to the BR avatar

That's an easy one for me, because I typically only take 2-3 presentations anyway fishing from a kayak. My choices would be: 1. 5" soft plastics with 1/8 and 1/4 oz draggin heads. 2. Skirted Jigs - football and swim heads in black/blue, green/blue and brown/orange. I can use the 5" soft plastic as a trailer and trim as needed. 3. Lipless cranks - shad, blugill, perch and red craw colors 4. Stanley Ribbits - black, watermelon pearl, brown/orange For rods, I would carry both my Shimano Clarus 6'6" MH F casting rod paired with my Revo Inshore - spooled with 30 lb. braid and a 15lb. flouro leader, and the other would be my Shimano Clarus 7'2" MXF spinning rod paired with my Stradic 3000FJ spooled with 30lb. braid and a 15lb flouro leader. These two rods are almost always with me (plus my 6'8" MXF AVID and Revo S but you said only two), so these two allow me to cover every presentation that i prefer, since a kayak affords me the opportunity to get into some pretty nasty cover and still get on fish without carrying extra heavy gear. To be perfecftly honest, this is actually my typical approach when I fish Sandy River here in VA and one I have had tremendous amounts of success on.

The easiest method is like was said before - for the home or garage, an old shoe box works beautifully and is usually easy to find. When you are heading out on the water, there are several options to consider.... 1. A simple gallon ziploc freezer bag works beautifully. Use multiple bags to keep like plastics together either by color, size, brand ,etc. 2. Another way that I use quite frequently is an old soft-sided lunch box - it will hold 8-10 packs easily and takes up amost no space. 3. The third solution to avoid punctures is a small sealable plastic container from Rubbermaid, Glad, etc. Sure you can spend the money on something like the Browning Plastics satchels sold at BPS or other varieties but really you probably have something at home already sitting there that you could use.

I have four areas I need to dedicate more time to: 1. Billed crankbaits - mostly confidence in using them around structure (hard to believe the hooks don't get hung up more often) 2. Drop shot - learning more about the subtleties 3. Fly fishing - simply time and an error on my part. I have a beautiful 7wt Orvis Hydros sitting in my house collecting dust. 4. Reading the body of water and conditions to help hone in on the best presentations to limit what I take on the water.

I too love the Stanley Ribbits and also use a 4/0 EWG hook on the standard 3.5" Ribbit, but for the Bull Ribbits, I step up to the 5/0 series of EWG. My favorite technique early in the year is to cast it to the bank, jump it into the water and let it fall to the bottom then slowly real it in. When you do this, the Ribbit has a natural tendency to turn on its side giving the look of an injured frog. If you do this near pre-spawn, it is a deadly tactic. I will mention two rigging recommendations here though regarding top water frogs of any kind. 1. If you are having issues with the nose of the frog getting shredded from the keeper pins/anchors ripping out on aggressive strikes, then I would recommend rigging it with a small swivel to act as a guard. Here's how: https://picasaweb.google.com/108474160562442085621/RiggingYourPlasticFrogsSecurely# 2. I have used a variety of EWG hooks with my frogs, everything from Owner Beasts (don't like b/c they shred the nose too easily) and a regular Gammy EWG to the Zoom Horny Toad regular and double take hooks (btw I don't like b/c it rips the rear legs off to easy on short or missed strikes). The best hook I have found to date is actually a saltwater grade EWG hook for jerk shads made by Mustad. For those that like the Stanley Ribbits, this hook excels for rigging those frogs, because it has a small gauge wire diameter (easier penetration through the fish' mouth and easier to set the hook on) and a small profile hitching post that fits perfectly in the small head on the Ribbits. You can find them here: http://www.aquadreamliving.com/mu40wigaphow.html

Another method I use is similar to a shakey head, but it is more snag free. I use a Confidence Baits Draggin' Head in the 1/8oz long shank size (equivalent to a 2/0 EWG) and rig it like a shakey head. Doing this will take any soft plastic and orient it at an upwards angle. Really deadly on small tubes or small profile craws like the PowerTeam Lures 3.5" Craw D'oeuvre. It places the tentacles up and in a battle stance or defensive posture. I'm not a staffer or rep for Jeff's prodcuts - just a loyal user of the Draggin' Head. Here's a video shogin how many different soft plastics you can use with the jig head.

Ignoring the "signs" or "factors" that tell most to not fish - I completely ignore moon cycles or frontal conditions. Some of my largest fish have come mid-day after a full moon in blue bird skies on an August summer day with the wind dead calm and the temps creeping above the century mark. I fish when I have time to fish - Mother Nature, Galileo, the local weatherman and the Mayans have nothing to do with it

You did say different crankbaits right? Unless I am mistaken, I have yet to see anyone mention what should be considered the two most versatile crankbaits out there - square-bills and lipless cranks. The lipless cranks can be used at any depth and can be worked in a variety of ways. The squarebill I think would be a good option to throw into the arsenal. Of course, my favorite shallow running Rapala crankbait wasn't mentioned either so far, so I'll throw it into the mix just for good measure - the Mini and Baby Fat Raps - I have caught more varieties of fish on that one crank than all other cranks combined. The Black back, silver body one was absolutely deadly when I had it tied on. Hard to come by now though since it was discontinued - mostly on eBay now.

Congrats! As a kayak angler, I actually purchase all of my gear knowing that it will be used in both fresh and salt. Of course, as a kayaker, we have a slight advantage with regards to drag and fighting larger fish. We can use lighter tackle, because the kayak acts as a form of drag as well.

Welcome aboard - SML is a great fishery and one I wish I lived closer to.

Welcome aboard - lots of VA folks on here.

Welcome aboard - a number of my kayak friends hit the 'doah throughout the year.

They're there, it just requires a lot of moving to stay on them. If you find baitfish, there is a chance you can get on them. I heard reports all the way north to 41A and south to the high rise. Its hard to discern fact from fiction unless you are on fish. Weather looks promising for Friday,so we'll see.

Don't be afraid to use it as a trailer on a finesse jig, especially flat tailed worms like the old school Mann's Jelly Worm. Imagine a stand up skirted or a football jig with a 4" Roboworm tipped on the end of a jig - very tantalizing as it floats and sways in the water and the skirt flaring out......

It was a tough day for sure - I hit the Plantation Light area and bouy 36A and only had one minor nibble on an eel drifted along the bottom. The other kayakers out there with me had 2 take downs but no hook sets. Scanning the channels told the tale - little action for everyone. The pressure on those fish is quite amazing this time of year, and the longer the mild weather holds, the greater the pressure on the them. I might give it another go this Friday.

That's actually a common technique used by smallmouth fishermen that fish tubes - it mimics a crawfish in a defensive posture. You can also take it a step further and texas rig the tube backwards with the inserted egg sinker. You can then hop it along and still maintain the battle stance. Also, rigging it this way allows it to drop vertically, so depending upon the weight of the egg sinker, you can also use it as a punch rig for mats and lily pads. A friend of mine uses a 4-5 oz egg sinker and insert it into the head of a tube, then run your line directly through the nose, through the egg sinker and tie on a bluegill or bream colored floater/diver crankbait. If rigged properly, the tube should slip freely down the line until it meets up to the CB. When you cast it, the CB should float up and the tube should sink. To work it properly, you keep the CB about a foot or so floating behind the tube, then jerk it into the tube. What he discovered was a bluegill attacking a crawfish in the shallows one day. What he saw next was the spark - he watched a big ole female bass come in and crush the bluegill with a very aggressive strike hence the spark for the rig he created.