Hanover_Yakker

One piece of advice shared with me by a bellow BR member is to use a lighter to heat up the tip of the soft plastic. This will make it easier for the keeper pin to go in and it helps the plastic to hold better as well. I will pass on one experiece I have had with them and why I do not use them anymore. On some soft plastic frogs, aggressive strikes can lead to the keeper pins tearing or ripping out the head of the frog. I found a slight modification from an old print article in Outdoor Life or F&S some time ago that helps reduce the chances of this occuring. You can see how to do it here: https://picasaweb.google.com/108474160562442085621/RiggingYourPlasticFrogsSecurely Hope it helps save a few for you in the future.

Don't be afraid to think outside the box when it comes to trailers. Like Sam said, sometimes bass want action and sometimes little to no action. A great option to consider is a flat-tailed 3-4" grub or an unsalted 5" finesse worm so that the tail of the worm dangles and drifts upwards tantalizing wary bass. The flat-tailed grub will aid in the fall rate, especially on smaller jigs like Bitsy Bugs in 3/16oz. If you have jigs without rattles, you can insert a small glass rattle into the grub or add one of those dual rattles you slip ofver the jig shank. Traditional thinking when stalking wary bass or unknown waters can often lead to success, but it can also be a chance to change things up and thinnk outside the box.

Gotcha - that technique should work fine. Creating laydowns is a good idea, but don't forget that a vertical tree will encourage smaller baitfish to congregate throughout the limbs and branches. Creating a literal 'food pyramid for your pond's predator base.

What about casting the bases in quickcrete using old plastic planters pots? That way you would have only a 6-8" diameter base with abot a 4-6" height. Might cut down on the weight some and should be enough for your purposes. It would also facilitate standing them up/staging them at various points. IE: in your driveway, at the launch and once on the bottom. Just a thought. You could also contact your local DGIF/DNR office and get some opinions on what you could do.

Mine is an EGO S2 Slider. Not only does it extend out from 18" to 36" but it FLOATS!!!

Who knows. Maybe my mistake luck will earn me some future brownie points.

As fate would have it, the dreaded "honey-do" list reared its ugly head late last night and I am needed elsewhere today - no fishing for me Might not be a bad deal though since the forecast is calling for rain non-stop from 9am - late afternoon. Just my luck.......

Love the ideas so far. Bass is the target for sure. Just wanted to give an accurate picture of the main fish populations sampled every couple of years. I have a jerbait tied on one rod that will double as my shakey head rod, a jig-n-craw on another, a lipless crank on another that can double as a jerkbait rod in a pinch. @nitro......its Diascund Creek Reservoir.

http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=37.433142,-76.917965&spn=0.013716,0.020707&t=h&z=16 This is a very productive area near me but one I have never fished this time of year. My initial approach was going to be a drop-shot at the bridge, then hit the end of the point with a suspending jerkbait followed up with a jig-n-craw and a shakey head. Known species of fish in this body of water are: bluegill, crappie, white bass, yellow perch (aka ring perch), pickerel and largemouth bass. Thanks!

I might just do that now that the forecast has improved. It will also give me chance to fish the bridges along the way and on the way back with my d/s rig. I've got some tasty soft plastics just aching to get bit by some hungry bass during a warming trend !

You might also consider the PowerTeam Lures Texas Rig Jig - it's only 4.5" but definitely fits the bill as far as bulky - it combines the skirt action of the Brush Hog and the look and feel of a craw.

I know I'll probably get a little wet, but I know the weekend is scrapped for me already with the dreaded "honey-do" list building by the minute. Daiscund is one on the list as well, so I am game for anything right now.

I'm planning on heading out tomorrow to try some coldwater in case anyone in Central VA wants to meet up. I'm considering Briery or Powhatan. Let me know!

You can also rig it backwards as well on a stand up jighead and hop it

A 2500 series Shimano Symmetre or Saros should be in the running in my opinion. Lightweight and pretty solid. If you are looking to save some cash, you can search the web for the Daiwa Regal iXa 2500 - almost bulletproof and very durable. The last model I would recommend is the Daiwa Lexa - no personal experience but have heard decent feedback so far. Not sure about the Airds or Legalis models.

The format of the event will have designated launch sites and I believe that the fish format will be the best two fish in total length for day 1 then the top 10 will move on to the next day but the individuals that didn't make the cut can still fish for 11-20th place prizes. Field size is capped at 50 for the Open. The invitational is locked based upon qualifications from 2012 events hence where I earned my invite for both. The Open tournament captain's meeting and weigh-in will be based out of Blacks Camp and the Invitational will be held at the private waters of VIP Adventures in Summerville. Any and all information is greatly appreciated, since I will not have any chance to pre-fish either location prior to the event themselves.

One more thing about the wire, solder and connections - put a small coating of dielectric grease on the soldered connections after they cool and prior to sealing with heat shrink. This will also provide an additional control against potential corrosion over the long haul. Water is corrosive, and don't let anyone tell you that it's only saltwater that is. I've had three different fish finder installations on my last two kayaks and can tell you from personal experience that freshwater corrodes just as much as saltwater, only saltwater is much more corrosive and is faster to act. The key like J Franchot mentioned was to use solder and heat shrink. As far as solder goes, there is a difference in the varieties out there, so make sure you use a tin-based solder and try to find size 15. Its the perfect size for this application. When it comes to wire, do not use the wire you find at the automotive store - those small rolls are copper based and will corrode in as little as 3-4 trips without proper waterproofing techniques (I speak from personal experience on this one). Go to any boating/marine store and ask for tin-based wire. While you are there, you can get the inline fuse holder and some 3 amp fuses. The blade style is the easiest but the challenge with them is the wire gauge used is typically 12 gauge or larger versus the leads from your FF provided power cable that are typically 18gauge or smaller. Finding wire connectors can be a bit challenging for this applications, hence the need for the soldering skills and heat shrink. One tip for using heat shrink - make sure that you slide on the proper size that just permits the wire to pass through prior to soldering, then slide on the next size up of heat shrink further up the line and about a 1/2-3/4" longer than the smaller piece you will use to cover the soldered connection. When you have finished the soldered connection and have sealed it with the small heat shrink, slide the longer piece over top of it and seal it again to provide an additional waterproof layer. The last four other pieces of advice I will offer is this: 1. Make sure your battery box of choice has a water tight seal (various options are ready-made and some are DIY) 2. Try to ensure your battery can be removed if at all possible but still leave the battery box and extra cabling secured. The battery adds weight and can be a little bit of a bear at the end of a fishing outing when you are worn out from paddling (personal experience on that one as well). Securing the box also serves another purpose - it prevents shifting while loading and transporting but also prevents future crimps or bends in the cabling and creating a passageway for water to seap in and start the corrosive process. 3. Try to find a rubber cap of some form that you can place over the FF cable end when left unplugged and be sure to coat the inner prong receptacles with a litle dab of dielectric grease to prevent corrosion on the leads themselves. 4. Keep the small tube of dielectric grease and extra fuses in a small water proof container in your kayak. You never know when you will need them out on the water. Shoot me a PM if you have any other questions. I also have some how-to's on my blog in the signature below.

Thanks for the replies - I am fishing a couple of 2-day tournaments there, so the choice of location or date is not my doing as they are already set in stone. With my tournament win last May, I earned the first invitation spot in the 1st Annual Kayak Bass Fishing Invitational and earned a spot in the 1st KBF Open. John, I'll hit you up via phone this evening to chat.

I also do what flyfisher suggested by using a spinng rod, but I can do it with my baitcasting rigs as well. I'll add one more tip to help hone your skill - find a cooler or old 5 gallon bucket. Sit on it and practice your technique. Sitting in this manner will put you close to the same seating position you would be in your canoe. Also keep in mind that pitching and flipping are not considered techniques for long casts. Being in a kayak or canoe allows you to obtain a location advantage in certain situations compared to a traditional boat by permitting you to get closer and in shallower water making the need for a long flip or pitch irrelevant. The biggest challenge in a canoe is learning that sound kills, so remain as quiet as possible by not paddling into the spot - drift instead. All this is for naught if you don't practice the technique before heading out on the water. Keep us posted on your progress.

I searched the previous posts and was unable to find any pertinent information on fishing the Santee Cooper lake system, specifically Marion and Moultrie. Is there anyone on here with any knowledge they would be willing to share? I'm heading down that way in mid-March for a couple tournaments and just wanted some good tips, not anyone's specific secret location.

I'll definitely be on the lookout if I go. I know I have fished the general area he fishes, so it is highly likely. Just looking for some general pointers on gear to take. I usually only take 2-3 rods anyway to keep it simple. I have a couple ideas but wanted to simplify.

https://www.countmyfish.noaa.gov/register/ Click on the "Do I need to Register" button first - you may not need to do it.

If possible, see if they will ship it to your work. I find the purchases like that are handled somewhat better than when delivering to your home.

I use 12-15lb. PLine Flouroclear for the leader and use 20-30lb. PP braid as the main line. I am getting ready to sppol one of my reels with 12lb. PLine CXX based upon a conversation I had with a fellow Bass Resource respected member and tournament bass angler.

The Saltwater Registry is free from the NOAA, but the saltwater license is not. Just an FYI for anyone who is unfamiliar, purchase of a saltwater license for either VA or MD provides you with the ability to fish the entire Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries per an email I received directly from the MD DNR.