Hanover_Yakker

Either way - you can't go wrong. They are easy to work on as far as cleaning and they are built like a tank. I have a Record 60 HC that I love and use it for everything from big stipers, tautogs, sheepsheads to bull reds, black drum and large catfish. I can easily remove the current 65lb PP and switch it over to 17lb mono or 15lb flouro and use it as a swimbait or cranking reel. Rule of thumb for me is like FishWhittler said - if it is a species that can make long runs, opt for the larger spool capacity especially if you troll. If you are only casting in a small window with no real chance of a long run, then the smaller 4000 series will do nicely. Either way, you can't lose.

There are plenty of rods in the $50-100 price range. At BPS alone, you can choose from..... Shimano: Sellus, Convergeance & Clarus Daiwa: Aird, Procyon, TD (blue) and the new TD (red) Abu: Vendetta & Vengeance St. Croix: Triumph, Premier and Mojo Bass Browning: Citori and Medallion It all comes down to how your given reel feels on the various choices. You'll never know unless you take your reel with you or at least carry the rods you might like up to the reel counter to test their feel with a reel mounted on the rod. Anything else you do outside of actually putting a reel on the rod is just shooting blindly and hoping. You could find a rod that is very sensitive, at the price point you want and feels good in your hands. Then make it all the way home only to find out that the reel doesn't seat properly or the balance of the combo is way off. Don't be afraid to venture into your local mom and pop tackle shop either. Often times they have better deals on the previous year's models of the same rods. I just bought a 6'6" MH/XF Daiwa Procyon (previous version) at a steal for $44 just the other day from a trusted tackle shop in my area. Be patient and do your homework.

In order to answer that question the best, we could use a little bit more information about you the angler, specifically casting ability, techniques you are strongest/weakest in, etc. Also, what type of vessel you will be fishing out of and the target species, cover, type of water, etc. Otherwise you could get responses that include everything from a 4'6" U/L with a 500 series spinning reel to a 8' XH/Fast swimbait casting rod paired to a Shimano Core or Daiwa PiXy........

I use them all the time in both fresh and salt water. If you opt to use one, I recommend stepping up to the salt water grade. They hold up better over the long term. I use the size 2 series rated at 65lbs. or higher, and I always get the black ones. Like Crestliner said, switching out lures is a breeze when you use a snap, but another advantage is that you don't have to have multiple rod and reel combos on your vessel. You only need the one rod and reel. Once you dial in a pattern or color though, you may opt to tie direct at that point. I personally just leave it as is, because the bite can turn off in an instant, and you may need to change from a square bill to a deep diver or lipless or perhaps even a silent version. As a kayak angler, space is limited anyway for the number of rods I want to carry (usually 2-3), so simplicity is a necessity for me. Thus, I use snaps for treble hooked baits all the time.

The discount is on the coupon itself in the RTD. I am not aware of any online discount codes, but I'll keep looking. Sometimes local shops have discount coupons as well - like Green Top. You can always call and ask them.

Here's my next ride........ http://www.hobiecat.com/fishing/boats/pro-angler/ Now if only I could convince the spousal unit that it is a must have

Here's a few tips for those that choose to use the soft plastic frogs like a Stanley Ribbit with a thick firm back. When you first put the frog on the hook, make sure you work the hook through the plastic back of the frog a couple times. This will help on your hookset. I missed a monster bass this past August when I forgot to do this. I counted 1001, 1002 as I reeled down and set the hook hard. After a quick 5 second fight the big sow spit the frog. When I looked at my frog, the hook shank hadn't penetrated the back or moved one bit. Once I loosened the hook shank path a little, didn't miss a bass the rest of the day. Also, if you use a scent stick or other attractant, try to avoid getting any on the actual hook shank. This will encourage the frog to slip down the shank a little and may cause it to not run true and turn on its back. Lastly, after every few casts, check the frog positioning on the hook to ensure it is aligned properly.

I am very pleased with the versatility of my St. Croix AVID 6'8" MXF casting, but I also have a Shimano Crucial spinning rod that is 6'3" MXF as well. Both work well for me even out of a kayak

Shallow: Mann's Minus 1 Mid: MirrOlure 27MR (XL series) or 18MR (Heavy Dine series) Deep: SPRO Aruku Shad

WHen fishing for stripers at night at the bridge tunnels down here, you never know what will hit. This 19" Hickory Shad hit the same 1/4oz jig I was using for the striper..... https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Y1lbsIQJng8/TwpHx8rYgRI/AAAAAAAABQk/pQ02NLyI-7Y/s640/HRBT_010812%20008.jpg Or this past November while chasing largemouth using a PTL Craw D'oeuvre on a Draggin' Head getting slammed by a 20.5" Channel Cat.... https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-j4dAOKFT7XE/UKF2jc7lPwI/AAAAAAAAC4Q/DFANEltAKbk/s640/PB120002.JPG

I have a whole tackle tray dedicated to my various frogs and take it with me every time I head out once the water temps creep above 53 degrees. My arsenal includes: SPRO and Koppers hollow-bodied frogs, SPRO popping frogs, a SCUM frog (present from my son), a hoard of Stanley Ribbits, Capt. Ken Daubert Clone frogs and my most recent additions a couple of R2S Dahlberg Diving Frogs. Anyone that is interested in trying frogs should carry various types to be ready for any situation. Case in point: I was fishing a secluded lake last summer with some fellow kayak anglers. This lake is loaded with pads along the banks that extend out in some places over 20' from the bank. I started with my trusty Ribbit and had multiple short swipes but only a couple hooksets. When I had a short strike, I followed up my moving frog with a stationary frog. In this case, it was the Clone frog and was rewarded with a nice chunky 17". My two best summertime frog bass to date were: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xp9YiTg3naE/TjMJ1pwf9sI/AAAAAAAAAtI/yvBk-b7FQS4/s480/July29_005.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-YdIGKN8cx2Y/TFNNJVzgVPI/AAAAAAAAADg/LC8IV_wZLfM/s640/SAM_0094.JPG Both were caught using a Stanley Ribbit. The Clone frogs are deadly. take a peek....

Thanks for sharing - that technique/lure is not that uncommon in the saltwater world. It is used for not only reds, but also trout, snoook and stipers, etc in the salt. It is sold in the saltwater section as just a normal split tail spinner in the 1/4 oz. size. Strike King, Bomber, Betts, Marsh Works, etc all have varieties of the same thing. I have a couple myself of both the SK and MW versions. A local tackle shop I frequent has a couple of the Betts models left on the rack. I know a couple veteran smallie guides that use large single colorado bladed spinnerbaits in the 3/4 to 1 oz size in muddy water to trigger strikes on big smallies when they fish the Juniata and Susky rivers.

X2 on the stikit anchor pins. Quality product.

Couldn't agree more - one of the best frog technique rods I ever owned was a 7'0" MH/XF Shimano Voltaeus - $39.99 from Bass Pro and could cast a Stanley Ribbit over 40 yards when paired with my Revo S and 50lb. PP. I sold them much to my dismay but am now happy with my Shimano Clarus Worm-n-Jig MH/XF ($69) and Daiwa Procyon MH/XF ($45 on clearance) rods. Both load well and cast with ease.

Parking is free. Admission: Adults $8.00 Seniors $7.00 Jr. Anglers (6-12) $5.00 5 and under free Admission good for all 3 days with Return pass Show Hours: Friday 10am - 8 pm Saturday 9am - 7 pm Sunday 10am - 5 pm Discount coupon is available in the Richmond Times Dispatch. You can also purchase your tickets online with no service fee: http://www.tixonlinenow.com/richmondfishing/tickets.asp?type=tixonlinenow

The one point that continues to be missed here is one of the most critical in deciding which rod you should consider. Unless you take your actual reel or at least get one from the reel counter to mount onto the various rods you are choosing, you are just shooting in the dark and hoping for a good match. Your "feel" for agiven rod will undoubtedly be different than someone elses. While personal preference and experience lend itself to the opinions and suggestions so far, all we can do as a collective group is provide insight and experience. It takes a careful touch to convey that information without flaming one brand over another. Do yourself a favor, take your reel spooled up with the line you are going to use and install it on the various rods and see which one feels the best. Once you have it narrowed down to 2-3 choices, then test the sensitivity of the rod and reel together. Ask the attendant or your fishing buddy/spouse to come with you and have them place the rod tip against their vocal cords and speak softly. If you can't feel the vibrations, then have that person speak a little louder until you can feel it. Now switch to the other rod and repeat until you have a clear picture in your mind which rod was the most sensitive. Once you have your various attributes checked off, the rod of choice should be a clear decision at that point. If you still are at an impass, then default to the other standard criteria of: warranty, customer service past experiences, price point and rod length. Hope this helps!

Make sure you look around on the web and local newspapers for the coupon to get you a discounted admission.

I like Seaguar as a main line and PLine Flouroclear 15lb. as an everyday leader.

I can say from personal experience that in general that helps, but when using certain smaller diameter plastics, the larger Owner keepers with the centering pins actually increased the tearing of the noses (ie: Stanley Ribbits or ZOOM Flukes). That's why I use the ADL 4/0 swimbait hooks with the small keeper pins.

I use a different style head altogether although with the same end result. I use a Confidence Baits Draggin' Head - it is a keel weighted hook like a swimbait hook, but the weight is flattened and runs flush with the hook along the bottom and has a small keeper pin. Requires almost no hookset at all. So easy to use that I rig my wife's and son's fishing rods with them almost excelusively and they have never missed a fish due to a poor hookset. For me, all I give is a quick snap of the wrist and the fish is hooked. The thin wire gauge of the hook is also a huge factor in getting a good hookset as it penetrates the fish's mouth with relative ease. Also lends itself to less likelihood of a fish throwing the hook. I've never lost a fish due to the fish throwing the hook when I use these. For smaller profile or lightweight soft plastics, I prefer the 1/8oz long shank version, and for medium soft plastics, I bump up to the 1/4oz version. If I'm throwing a large beaver style bait, I can go all the way up to a 3/8oz if needed. The hook design ensures a presentation that keeps the lure elevated for an easy take by the predator, yet still weedless to allow fishing heavy structure and rocks if you desire. I use mine to pitch to heavy cover all the time and is a presentation that is always tied on when I head out.

Here's a little known tip and begs the question......"Are you smarter than a kindergarden child?"..... If you're using braid specific scissors of any form, you've already missed the boat (pardon the pun) and quite possible spent money you may not have needed to. All you need is the exact same FISKARS scissors used by kids during elementary school. I have three pairs from my son's previous classes and they cut my 65lb. PP with no issues and leave no tag ends. I also have the SNIP tethered to my PFD while fishing in my kayak, but when I am at home rigging my rods or changing leaders, I use the simple FISKARS kids scissors. I carry an extra pair in a waterproof container while on the water just in case my retractable tether fails or gets severed while out on the water.

Columbia PFG L/S shirts and Convertible Pants paired with a BUFF and Hobie Fishing visor. Skin cancer is just too risky. For those that prefer s/s and use sunscreen - do you research on sunscreens and their true effectiveness. And just to clarify on one piece of the debate about sunscreens, there is no such thing as a waterproof sunscreen. All of them will wash off or wear off after a few hours and need to be re-applied, especially if you are constantly wet from water activities like swimming, surfing, wake boarding, skiing, diving, etc. http://abcnews.go.com/Health/truth-sunscreen-labels-lying/story?id=16432348 http://www.ewg.org/newsrelease/whichsunscreenssafest Many of the sunscreens sold at your local store contain a cancer-causing chemical in it (kind of defeats the purpose of protecting against skin cancer at the risk of potentially another form). I use a brand called Badger available at most of your Whole Foods Grocery or other natural store. It is expensive, but it has been rated one of the best for sometime now. Here's the list from 2012 of the top-rated ones: http://breakingnews.ewg.org/2012sunscreen/best-sunscreens/best-beach-sport-sunscreens/

Great summary of why you chose the rods you did, in the end, the combo only has to feel right for you and the way that you fish, not what others think. My only concern about the rod was the warranty relative to others in the Shimano line up. Glad they are working out for you.

Don't be afraid to try the float-n-fly technique, but hair jigs by themselves, jerkbaits with long pauses (we're talking 30-45 seconds), small profile tubes (2"), small profile craws (2-3") and a SSSLLLLOOOWWW rolled spinnerbait if the water is murky/stained.

MirrOLures are pretty good good for me and have better color patterns that are more realistic than most. Koppers Live Target Herrings look pretty sweet. X-Raps are okay but the bills are very fragile.