Hanover_Yakker

Then again - you could always just read the manufacturer's specs on your rod and see what the handle length is. That would give you a pretty good idea without having to do any of this. Another method is taking your rods and measuring them to see where the keeper line is before you head out. I'm assuming we are referring to a tournament right? Well most tourneys that I have seen or participated in have a 12-14" minimum length. Almost every rod I own that I would use for the target species measure at least 14" from rod butt to the end of the reel seat near where the rod blank enters the handle. If that doesn't work, there should be a rod spec line that you could reference on the blank itself like the "1" in the 1/8-3/4oz. lure rating or the "H" in the rod model series listed ie: AVC68MHF.

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Depends on which version of the Ribbit you bought. The regular or 3.5" Ribbit is designed to be used with 4/0 hooks, while the Bull Ribbit is designed to be used with 5/0 hooks. You can use any EWG hook, but make sure it is not a fine wire type. When paired with 30-65lb braid (depending upon your fishing style and cover fished), the hook can be straightened on fine wire styles. The Double Take hooks I find actually cause a greater number of destroyed frogs on violent strikes. I personally use a Mustad-based 4/0 swimbait hook from Aqua Dream Lures that is saltwater grade. It is a little sturdier than a traditional EWG hook without the bulk of a superline hook like the Gammys. It also has a small keeper pin that is a perfect fit for the small heads on the standard sized Ribbits. Another rigging method I use when only using an EWG hook instead of a swimbait hook is to add a swivel to the nose to keep the hook from tearing out. Try this out: https://plus.google.com/photos/108474160562442085621/albums?banner=pwa&gpsrc=pwrd1#photos/108474160562442085621/albums/5631929031349625537 Welcome to the world of frog fishing!

Dang - looks like I ordered mine a few days too early

Have had all three and can say that DirecTV has the best qualtiy and customer service. DISH is second and traditional cable is third. I just switched from satellite to cable for cost reasons, but I am real close to cutting it off and switching back. The inconveniences of storms in VA all year long knock out the satellite signal more than I prefer but the picture quality is so much better. With cable, the package I paid for is supposed to include certain channels yet multiple calls cannot resolve this issue. I was so ticked that the NFL Network was not coming in and I missed the Scouting Combine this past weekend. I know they replay it several times before the draft, but it should have worked to start with. There answer to this problem was boosting the signal? Really? You mean all the other channels in HD for the same package work fine but somehow the NFL requires the signal to be boosted. Pretty poor answer in my opinion. The rub with the satellite package is that they make you lock in for 2 years and only discount the first year. The cable packages have nice bundles but again after the first year the cost increases significantly. They get you coming and going. For OTA, we are basically screwed, because all of our cable outlets are on the north facing walls, but the satellites are all to our SSW. I tried a surface top OTA antenna and was only able to pull in 8 channels. I could install a big antenna inside the attic, but that defeats the purpose from a cost persepctive. I'll probably end up switching back to DTV here in the next month or so if my experiences with cable do not improve.

Snapped off a few pics today of the new 2013 Hobie Pro Angler 14 when I unloaded all my gear from the weekend at Bass Pro talking about kayaking and Heroes On the Water... Enjoy!

Here'a little bigger version you might find easier to see.....

Until you take both of the reels and put them on the rod, you're just hoping. They both are fine reels, but they have different profiles when mounted on a fishing rod. You need to go to a store that has both and take your rod with you. You might find that the Lews sits nicely on the rod but it is unbalanced for your tastes. Or you might find the Chronarch doesn't feel right when fully seated in your hand. While input of others is good it ultimately ends up being a popularity contest of those that choose to respond. If the majority of the individuals who respond say "Chronarch", does that mean you should exclude the Lews? Absolutely not. Only you can decide which reel feels the best for a given rod. Any other information you obtain from a forum is just personal preference. For example, is there any reason you are excluding the Daiwa Lexa, Abu Garcia Revo S, SX, STX, Pflueger President, Okuma, etc.......see what I mean? I could easily argue that you should consider a Revo S or a Lexa.

Here is one that I am in the process of selling...... I'll add a photo or two of my Pro Angler when I have it out next time.

Guess I should have specified that this was for the baitcaster.

I'm actually volunteering with the Central VA Heroes On the Water group at the local BPS here in Central VA. I took a few minutes at the end of the day and snagged a few small terminal tackle items and some line but avoided any large purchases. I figured I would snag a spool of the Seguar Kanzen braid and wanted to give it a try. Also snagged some more PLine Flourclear and Yozuri Hybrid.

A St. Croix ML AVID or Shimano Crucial ML would be excellent for that!!

Just a heads up for those interested in the Lexa. I spent some time with both local Daiwa and Shimano reps at Bass Pro yesterday during their fishing sale. We all learned something that you may or may not be aware of. I was test fitting the Lexa on the Compre and Crucial and learned that the forward reel seat on the reel will not secure properly due to how the Compre and Crucial reel seats are constructed. The opening is too shallow and will not accommodate the Lexa properly. You can force it on there if you try hard enough, but you actually may compromise the rod reel seat. You could visibly see where the Lexa was cutting into the reel seat on the rod. It also did not provide a substantial enough mounting area for my tastes. So much so that I would fear the reel would come un-seated under a heavy load or from a large fish. On a different note, the Lexa fit beautifully on a St. Croix AVID because the AVID uses a more traditional reel seat. Rod builders will know the specifics of this but thought I would share my experience from a casual gearhead.

Love mine. It's my frog rod reel.

Quality fish!! Not to sound preachy, but I would love to see that same picture with your PFD on next time

Lifetime warranty on the clarus, only a year on the sellus. I have two of the clarus rods. No complaints.

Other than the live weigh-in, it's the same as every other Bassmasters Series event. The full tournament on the water snippets are aired a week or two later on ESPN 2 on SAT and SUN mornings.

I won't repeat the tips offered by others on kayak choice, so I'll give a different take on the decision. For me, you have to consider a number of variables, but the deciding factor for me was cost outlay. If you opt for any vessel that requires any power solution other than your physical actions (ie: paddling or pedaling), then you need to take into consideration the costs necessary to register your vessel, the cost of a trailer, personal property taxes each year, gas costs, specific vehicle mods like a towing package and tow bar, any mods you want to do, etc. Then you have to account for ongoing costs - annual taxes, gas costs, winterizing, maintenance, etc. Finally, you are relegated to the available boat ramps. Not necessary when you opt for a kayak, float tube, or canoe. All you need is a shoreline or path to the water. When I added all that money up, I found it easier just to buy a SOT kayak. My first was a Wilderness Systems Ride 135, but I also paddled an Ocean Kayak Trident 13, Wilderness Systems Tarpon 120 and 140, Native Watercraft Manta Ray 12, and a host of others. I ended up moving to a Hobie Revolution 13 and as of yesterday a Hobie Pro Angler 14. The initial cost outlay on a kayak is actually a one-time cost compared to a powered vessel. They are also easier to transport, as many can be transported without a special rack. Lastly, you get some exercise and you can fish in areas that the larger boats are unable to get to. Good luck in your decision.

I've never had any issue with product quality or customer service. I've had a composite rod tube break that was replaced without issue all the way here in VA. I also have their Lowrance FF mount, rod tubes, and no less than 5 different rod holders. Quality stuff and USA made.

2005 Dodge Grand Caravan (needed for the family primarily and the dogs) has close to 246K on it right now. I know another vehicle will be in my future at some point, especially with a newborn on the way.

I personally would have waited to launch until 10 or 11 in the morning and fished the exposed flats near drop offs or ledges that had been warmed by the sun later in the morning. I would have considered the following: 1. slow rolling a large profile black/chartreuse spinnerbait with a single Colorado blade and a thumping tail shad trailer 2. working a suspending jerk bait like a LC Pointer or SPRO McStick in the clear water areas 3. stroking a gold shiner lipless crank 4. working a jig-n-craw in dark colors with a ratte and a dark craw trailer along the dropoffs. Anyone else?

There are valid reasons on why different lines will or will not work. The common variables regardless of line choice are drag setting and hookset. With topwaters, it can be difficult to teach yourself to "not set the hook" when you see that first strike. All you need to do is keep the line relatively taught and slowly sweep the rod to the side. The drag is another important factor when "dialing in" your topwater setup. For me, a light drag is a good option when paired with a rod that is not a dedicated topwater rod. As we all know, not all actions are equal, as well as power ratings. For me, I typically set the drag so that I can pull line off with a little effort but the drag kicks in in the event that I "overset" the hook on my sweep or hookset motion. Kind of goof-proofing it if you will. Just remember that the drag setting will need to be adjusted accordingly if this will be a rod you will be using for different levels of the water column. Another trick I use (since I use braid myself) is to allow a little "s" curve in the line when walking or popping the lure. This gives you an additional split second delay when the fish takes the lure. It serves three purposes: 1) Helps minimize jerking the lure from the fish's mouth; 2) It helps minimize the amount of movement or action with each rod movement; 3) Allows enough slack for the fish to take the lure and turn away thus increasing the chances of a good hookset when you sweep to the side.

I remember watching that a while back. My only changes would be like Bobby said to fish it with a little longer line length. I would also fish it with a free spool with your thumb on the spool. After you have the hookset, then engage the spool. I use a similar technique on salt water fish that have soft mouths that tear easily (spadefish, speckled trout mostly). Doing this helps me ensure the hookset is good but not too hard to tear a hole in their mouths. Not an issue so much with bass but it would help reduce the chances of losing fish by ripping the lure out of their mouth.

Dang!! The rod storage and that livewell is sick man! Congrats!!