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bass1980

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Everything posted by bass1980

  1. 1.5'S at 3/8 oz isn't really a small crank. If you have a good reel you should be able to cast it. Maybe not as far as a MM but still good. Since I don't throw deep divers I paired my GL2 MHM with a chronarch 51e. Many people would think that reel is a bad choice but I love it. I use 20lb braid so I'm able to get plenty of lines. The 51e is able to cast even shad raps #5 which is a very small crank. I was amazed and so glad I made the switch. Before I had trouble loading 1.5s with this rod with a T3 1016 and a Ci4+, which are great casters but it must have been the rod. Then I switched to the 51e and wow! Then I dropped even lower to shad raps and more wow. BTW I use braid because I can rip cranks out of grass easier and sensitivity is so much better. Sorry I went off track a bit.
  2. I should have been more clear. The 7'3 M *** is stiffer than my liking which probably has to do with the tip. I could still cast with the rod well and I almost always wacky rig it. However even though I have no problem casting the rod, I'm looking for something with the same back bone but maybe better tip. I understand everyone's different in what they think is the right feel but so far the 893 seems like a winner from reviews.
  3. I'd go for a 7' MHM rof for an all around crank rod. It'll be stout enough to fish square bill around wood. It'll also be stout enough to use for up to 5/8 oz cranks. Ripping lipless cranks out of weeds/grass you can do as well. Slightly out of your range but I use a Gloomis GL2 7'MHM rod. I don't crank enough so I only needed one rod and this one seems to do many things well. I hateD the GL2 jig n worm rod but kept the crank rod as the handle is nice and it does the job.
  4. They seem very light just handling them and I really like the reel seat.
  5. Maybe I wasn't clear enough on my original post. Senko is my bread and butter lure. I can cast them, and I feel like I do it very well. I'm on a boat so max distance isn't always needed but there will be times I need it. I use senko at times as a search bait. Just casting around weeds, wait a few seconds, and repeat. When I'm searching I don't really even work the worm while it's on the bottom jigging it. It's just a reload and repeat until I catch some fish and understand where they are and slow it down with a beaver or craw. Now about the rod. It's tricky up north with our natural lakes that has a lot of vegetation. You want a nice medium rod with a nice tip but at the same time you are most likely fishing around weeds. Not extreme slop but pockets into milfoil or weed lines. When catching a bass they can dive into some vegetation and you'll need a rod with some back bone to get them out. I've encounter a few times where I pulled a bass with a bunch of weeds and I'm glad my rod wasn't a ML which many people use in the south. That is why I'm looking into a special rod. My 7'1 Medium fast *** (rated at 1/4-5/8oz) is very nice but I want a few more inches for distance and hook set. When looking at the 7'3 and 7'6M *** the rod is rated at 1/4-3/4oz. Now I have not handled those two longer rod or used it but I'm afraid it won't load as well. I know it's not the same but I have the 7'3 M *** and to me it's a bit too stiff. Plenty of back bone but I tend to suffer accuracy. So I'm wondering is the 893c the ultimate senko rod? I know what's perfect for me, may not be for you or the type of water you fish. The 893 is rated at 3/16-5/8 oz. Looking at the lure rating, and yes I have not held or used one, it seems like the one. I hope this explains more of the rod I'm looking for.
  6. Wow great reply. Exactly what I was hoping for. After doing a quick gooGoogle search on the rod I was surprise some people use this rod for 1/2 Oz jigs. I would be skeptic how it can load a senko and use it for jigs that heavy. Must be an unbunbelievable tip!
  7. I throw weightless wacky senkos so much I want to get one that I'll be 100% satisfy with. Currently using a 13 *** 7'1 M casting. An amazing rod but I wanted a longer rod since I need long cast at times so casting distance and hook sets are important. I just enjoy using baitcasters more so not interested in going back to spinning gear for senkos. I thought of going 7'3 or 7'6 M *** but looking at the lure rating it seems it won't load senkos as nice with a higher lure weight rating vs the 7'1M. I recently picked up a 7'3 *** M but I find it a bit stiff for casting weightless senkos. Also going from the *** to *** I thought I would be ok with it since senko bite is more of a pull and not bump so I didn't think a real sensitive rod was needed. I'm in the market for real good senko rod. I was wondering if anyone has info on the Loomis 893. I'm also wondering if you guys think a real sensitive and expensive rod is necessary for wacky senkos? The other rod I have in mind is a Dobyns DX 742. BTW I will fish senkos in moderate to semi heavy weed so I'm cautious as to how low the power rating I can go with this rod.
  8. Dypsis if you want to try to cast even further with less brakes and are afraid of a giant birds nest try this. Keep your setting the same. Cast as far as you can. By hand manually pull off about 10 yards of line. Then use tape and tape over your remaining spool/line. I use blue painters tape. Reel back your lines. Now set your brakes less and let it rip.....with caution of course. The tape will make sure you won't birds nest too far into the spool of lines. Good luck.
  9. I dont to always sound like I'm always vouching for *** but I do have many of their rods and can give some insights. First I'd give *** a call. They have one of the best if not the best customer service. They even reply back to your emails the same or next day because I have contacted them many times. I have the 7'3 medium *** as well. I feel like the 7'3 medium is significantly stiffer than the 7'1 medium. I even have the 7'1 medium *** and it's softer too. For 1/4oz jig with trailer the 7'3 medium is great for it. At 3/8oz and trailer would still work but I wouldn't recommend anything heavier. I bought this rod for weightless wacky senko and feels like it's a bit too stiff for it so I'm moving it to my Trig and small jig setup. Hope this helps but seriously just give them a call.
  10. How much of the reel is zion? Just side plate?
  11. *** spinning $100 shimano Symetre $100
  12. Or if you're really set on $50 find a used Bass pro qualifier. I believe I sold one here for $60 and it was near mint condition. Those pro qualifier reels are amazingly smooth for their price point. Smoother than my Abu pro max I had 3 years ago. Only problem to me is they are on the heavy sidea for my liking. What I find that old school fishermen are more acceptable to heavy reels than us new school fishermens.
  13. I am going to recommend a reel above your budget. The Daiwa Tatula. The reels profile is bigger than your max series abu but since your dad is used to Round reels the Tatula size shouldn't be a problem. New ones on ebay go for 100ish. I've seen used one go for 80. Trust me it is 2 times the reel of the max series. Hopefully you can save just a bit more and have a reel that in my opinion should be selling at $200+.
  14. My first lure I got was "The Flying Lure". Made my dad order it when I saw the infomercial when I was 7 years old lol. I don't think I caught one fish with it but then again I don't think I really knew how what the heck I was doing at that age.
  15. Man I have heard so many good reviews on the orochi xx series but I don't know why I just can't pull the trigger because of how plain looking the rod is. I know, I know that has nothing to do with performance but I guess I'm picky like that. I know that perfect pitch rod gets rave reviews on another site. Good luck.
  16. First off, typically a crank rod will be Medium Moderate. For now just use what you have. For you plastic, first determine the lakes you'll be fishing in. Are they super weedy like northern natural lakes or rock bottom and timbers like some southern lakes. Considering those lures you are throwing I'm assuming you won't put a heavy bullet head on or any. Medium will do on moderate to no vegetation lake. If you're fishing in milfoil or a lot of weeds, then go MH. However going MH will reduce your casting distance if you don't put a bullet head of 1/4 oz or up. It's a balancing act, as to why many anglers have multiple setups for different techniques, lures, weights, and cover. IMO if your lakes has some sorts of weed go with MH.
  17. Exactly what Delaware tackle said. To give you an idea for my setups I'll let you know what I use mine for. 7'2 Cumura medium fast - drop shot near weed lines 6'7 *** medium fast - jerk bait 7'1 *** medium fast - shakey head 7'3 *** medium fast - senko With jerk bait a medium will load better for the sizes I'm throwing and no need to step up to MH since I'm not around weeds. With my drop shot and shakey head some people go ML but I fish around weed lines and sometimes slightly inside of weed lines so I need more Power than a ML. My general rule, may not be for everyone, is if I'm throwing 1/4 to 1/2 Oz and open to moderate cover I'm going with a medium rod.
  18. I have both. On paper the CI4+ should throw light lures better. How much? well not sure as I haven't thrown light lures on either. I flushed and relube both reels bearings and throwing a hollow body frog surprisingly the Curado cast better on 50lb braid. Less back lash when I set it to throw max distance. As far as which one threw further I haven't tested it. Other than weight I like the Curado better. I tried light punching on both reels too and the Ci4+ just isn't the reel for that. I know people will say it's the carbon frame but it's more than that. If you are considering bang for the buck, then it's pretty clear that the Curado is more bang for the buck than the Ci4+. I moved my Ci4+ to shakey head duty on a Medium rod with 20lb PP. I like it so far but the Curado for frogging and light punching is awesome.
  19. 9.3oz vs 6.8oz will feel like a difference mounted on a rod. Casting and jigging you will really notice it. Some people don't really mind heavier setups though so it doesn't bother them as much. With my spinning setup which I use one for drop shot and one for river smallies I like them as light as possible.
  20. I have the previous Symetre and the Ci4+. The weight difference alone makes me glad I bought the ci4+. It's smoother but not by a lot. I actually find it kind of hard to tell a difference with spinning reels.
  21. Steez + sv spool and Dobyns DX for me. However going to sell that setup soon for a reAL steez sv and probably going to pair with something megabass.
  22. If your a one hand caster it does make a difference if your not a huge muscular person. IMO it's more about pleasure than fatigue. Think about walking a mile with heavy work boots vs a light running shoes. Both will get the job done but one will be much more comfterable. My steel and core reel when paired with a light weight rod feels so comfterable to fish with. However when I'm fishing the slop I use a 7'3 H rod and those reel just doesn't balance well on heavy rods. So lightweight is nice but balance is probably more important.
  23. I use braid for backing on a few of my reels.The idea is lighter lines will make your spool spin better. I always end up with some 20 yards or so left over braids so I use whatever I have. Braids too expensive to use as backing and you can't do much with 20 yards unless it's a pitching reel only. As far as telling the difference, well I honestly can't tell the difference but I started doing it after watching some of Amarts videos. Does it work? I'm sure it can help but like anything in the realm of enthusiasts the cost vs results will never be even. If you're thinking about it just do it.
  24. The T3 has Daiwas best in the 3D braking system, the Tatula does not. Both still are great casters but the edge definitely goes to the T3 as I have both. For the price I got my Tatula there is not better deal right now.
  25. A few things... I thought everyone knew Tackle - warehouse . Com has these T3B on clearance at $109. Use promo code to get amother 10% off. Also your Tatula reel is a more impressive reel. I had both and other than the 3D brakes on the T3B the Tatula is a much more refine reel. I would just get another Tatula for that price you got and skip on the T3B. Although the T3B is a nice reel for $100 it's a love it or hate it reel. There's many great things like the Twing, small profile, and best of all Daiwas 3D breaks. There are some not so great things too like Zion material that feels like plastic. The reel isn't very smooth and the handle isn't the best. For the light applications you're using it for I'd suggest a used Curado 50 or Daiwa Sol/alpha platfrom.
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