primetime

The more weight you put in front the more the bait will buzz, and you also want a hook that goes back further into the worm even though it is slim, I think I use a 4/0 Offset straight shank with 1/4 most of the time, 1/8 for more subtle on top of grass, but sometimes a weighted hook helps..It is one of the most popular topwater worms here in Florida, and you can flip it, pitch it, fish it weightless, I often will nose hook it in open water to get the senko flutter but it is a proven winner. It is one of those baits you can't fish wrong. I use the Magnum size as well and when swimming on top in heavy grass sometimes I use a heavy guage hook in a larger size for more weight, and to get more action, but you can always cut them down an inch or two...They make great swim jig trailers when torn up as well....The regular size is good as well, I just like the bigger worms alot of times since the fish can't see what they are striking most times... I think I use Watermelon Red, Junebug, Black and blue, and a two tone color gp/pearl...Most people fish it as a wake bait or buzz bait, but like other's have noted, it can be fished the way you have confidence, so if you like a split shot rig, I have not doubt it would work that way as well weightless, or just rage rigging and slow rolling on the bottom....I have found if the longer version swings too much in open water fish often miss it....but Standard rigging is 1/8-1/4 for topwater, 4/0-5/0, and in weeds try to avoid an EWG....Just my opinion, I only use EWG for fat swimbaits and thick baits...

If you ever wondered why companies use scents like Garlic, Anise, Coffee etc....Their is a book called "Knowing Bass" by a PHD named Keith Jones I belive, and it is all studies he conducted over years without giving any brands or companies any recognition so it is not a biased book like many Magazines designed to sell you lures in every article. He did studies and found that Bass are curious, and some chemicals actually alter the PH of the bait, Bass notice new scents and the only one that repelled them was Laundry Detergent if I remember correctly. He concluded that the use of Garlic for instance and even salt, oil, etc. is meant to alter PH and smell to make fish curious and pick it up since they don't have hands (Paraphrasing from Memory, so this is a summary of a long chapter) and one study showed if you are fishing cold water a Bass would respond to a heated worm, and in warm water, a cold worm....I have tried the cold worm once and it worked but I can't say it was better than a regular since my buddy was also catching them, but many scents like bug spray, WD 40 actually attracted bass....He concluded using scents was worth it since bass hunt by sight, sound, and smell and in stained water, scent is often easier to follow then sound since sound deflects in different directions and that matters even in weeds since sound and sight are limited, they often rely on scent first...Obviously Coffee scent works since Strike King baits works, and so do Gambler with Garlic...I believe they are meant to get fish to pick them up out of curiosity.. Also I remember the Phermone was ***, but I can say with 100% certainty that when the Power Worms came out I noticed a difference in strikes between a culprit and a power worm...I now still use Culprits but with Scent....Hope that makes sense, I just type fast and can ramble...but great book.. Also, the shape that fish respond to best in a worm or lure is 4"x 1/2" and for a craw, the shape of a Gambler BB Cricket or Missle Craw Tube and the Havoc Slop Craw was hit like 10x more than all the other shapes with large claws etc...That was a cool study, but Doug Hannon always said if you want to catch big bass use long thin lures like the Rapala J-18. That was his favorite lure to troll on weed edges in FLorida.

I never add it to the bag since I may not use that bag again for a long time and sometimes scents can mess up plastics if they are colored etc... I started using a system a few years ago where I use the Gulp tub and I leave a little bit of gulp juice on the bottom, then squirt some Megastrike into the gulp, and stir into a liquid paste...I then will just dip my baits and lures into the tub while fishing, and I soak all my baits the night before I go fishing and if you fish the Ned RIg and like the salt out of your baits, if you soak your Zinkers overnight they will float and so will other brands etc....But I think the Megastrike is great since it stays on the jig or plastic for a long time, and mixed with gulp liquid it gives me more confidence and is quicker to use.....Megastrike is not expensive compared to other brands since it lasts on your lures or baits much longer than other's I have tried.. I have used the Bang spray which was garlic and it was gone way to fast, but it was a spray in a can so I probably sprayed most of it into the air...

I have an addiction and enjoy buying every frog and trying it out....As stated above, it is hard to beat the Booyah Pad crusher if you consider the Price, Size Options, Popping and standard, and they will work just fine no matter where you fish...In heavy cover I like a harder frog, also one that has a narrow nose and casts far, so I like the Spro and the Swamp Donkey for those situations, but almost all frogs are good once you learn how to fish them..I feel the Poppin Phattie from Snag Proof is the best poppin frog for heavy cover, it is the only one I have used that will work in cover and not get jammed up...Scum Frog also makes a chugger that I really like for the sound it makes, and their Trophy Series is a steal at under $6. I used to always complain about hook up ratio with hollow frogs until my friend made a really good point....How many strikes do you convert on a topwater with treble hooks? It is probably similar since fish will miss a walking bait in open water as well, if they want the frog they will take it down and I have messed around in ponds and I removed the hooks and you would be surprised how long they hold them..I think of them now as a soft bait, if your frog goes under, chances are that fish will move with it for at least 5 seconds if not more. I wouldn't wait that long of course, but my new favorite frog only has one hook and I think that is better since you don't have to slam home 2 Barbs on 2 thick hooks that are actually working against each other unless you bend them perfectly parrallel. Evergreen makes a frog called the Big Bite Frog that has one hook right in the middle and has ridges on the bottom to make noise on the mat. It is not like the Pivot Frog, it is fixed in one place over a silicone body, and has a super short skirt with only a few strands so it will not block the hook point. Since the weight is connected to the hook, it never takes on water. I rarely miss fish on that frog. It also has a spot for a blade underneath, which makes it a good wake bait with a nice wobble. You can find them for a good price if you shop around, They are expensive due to the quality of material they use. The hook is also super sharp and will not bend no matter how hard you try...Not sure why it is not more popular but I first found out about it when a Pro had it on his rod at Toho...

There are not enough to go around anymore anyway, plus with a little creativity you can find a way to make a few other lures do the same things...I use the double hook on Aruku Shads and a feather on the tail and it is awesome at times since it falls with that nice action and will also come through cover really well. It just takes a long time to figure out the right size hooks, and type of dressing, split ring to make it all run correct...I use the Cordell suspenders as well and if they had more colors I would use them much more....I want to try the Bill Lewis suspenders...I know a few companies make them....I have tried floating traps but have never had successs and they are super light so hard to cast, and if they get one blade of grass on the hooks they run sideways... People laugh at me, but i use the Mad Dad Minnow from Creme on spinning gear and it is a d**n good lure for 2.99 and less....

Once Pure Fishing Purchased Sebile, They stopped making all the higher priced lures and instead went with the action series which I don't think has worked out for them as I always see the lures on clearance racks...I don't think they did a good job marketing their lures to Bass fishing. They focused on Europe, Walleye, but also Saltwater as a main target. They also made a big push when they first came out and pushed the Magic swimmer which was overpriced imo and was ok but not worth the $18.99-$35 they were asking for them...The best lures never made it into stores or major retailers....The Sebile lures were kind of like River2sea in the sense that they made so many versions and variations and models so quickly that many were not all that great, but some were gems..The Splasher, WL Koolie Minnow, Ghost Walker, *** walking lures, and Flatt Shads were great as were the glide baits which most people never had a chance to see unless you fished in Europe. If you look on you tube under Sebile lure demo's you can see all the sebile baits being worked by Patrick Sebile and he explains how to fish them and the guy is borderling crazy/genius since they are usually close cousins.... I wish they would have pushed lures like the Splasher and stick shad (Just the Smaller sizes for price reasons-72mm and 100?) instead of the magic shad first....It just gets confusing as he had about 6 sizes of flatt shadds, sinking, heavy, snagless and it gets confusing.....But Pure fishing ate up another company that was producing unique lures.....

The Sebile Flatt Shad has been one of my favorite Lipless crankaits I have used especially in the 77 SU size as it suspends, swims nose down, and it can be altered by removing the split ring and tying a loop knot if you want it to slowly float, but the thin body, Owner Trebles, and glitter filled cavity give it the look as if it is wounded and has the "Scales falling off effect". Whenver I am flipping and pitching, or fishing an area with emergent grass, you can work this bait over almost anything and it will run true as the way it swims protects the trebles from weeds, and if you rip it or stop it, it stays perfectly still with a slight wobble..Most strikes I get come on the pause or when I just start it... They also make a Flatt Shad Snagless, and one that is extra heavy for longer casts and makes it easier to get the bait down deep under the weeds where most lipless cranks get get through. It is also smaller and only has a double hook which you can throw in the middle of a hydrilla field and get it through like a texas rigged swimbait only much better hook up percentage at times... I would say that if you are on a good trap bite, ripping it off grass etc, most guys will start out with a standard rattling bait like the Red Eye shad or XR50 Xcalibur rattle bait, and after the bite slows, they switch to a one knocker to get a few more strikes....The Flatt Shad is my go to lipless after the one knocker, or in areas where fish are spooked since they vibrate hard, but the rattling is very weak since it is mainly just hooks...Cordell and Bill Lewis also makes suspenders but the flatt shad 77 size is the perfect post spawn bluegill size...I love the chartruese silver, Baby Bass color, silver and gold...I also use the smaller sizes 54mm and 66mm I believe for pond fishing etc as they sink but just give off a different vibration than everything else. The New Sebile lipless cranks action series have 2 types, I have used the ones that have the weight on the bottom of the nose externally and do the vertical walk like the Spro Aruku shad does, and it is a good bait as well... Sorry for the ramble, but one of my favorite way to fish when i am not in the mood to pitch heavy soft baits into cover or fish endless mats and cover, is to use the Flatt Shad 77 SU as a pitching bait. I will pitch it into a pocket of weeds next to a branch and just let it sit for a good 10 seconds.Then just shake it and maybe let it dive a few inches and kill it...The strikes are viscious...This is one of the only lures I have used with other fisherman and they stop and ask me what I am using and ask to see one or borrow one...It is that good of a lure. I don't know why Pure Fishing discountinued all the Sebile Baits that Patrick Sebile really worked on to make them pefect and instead made the action series.....but you can find deals on the Sebile lures on Ebay still, and I would get a few Flatt Shad 77 SU the only suspending model they make before they vanish. You can find them for $10 on Ebay which is a good buy compared to other lures... Video of the Snagless Flatt Shad/Suspending-the 2 best imo....It truly is more weedless than any other lure including the Norman Scorpion, only bait similar is the Creme mad dad minnow which is a soft body, but you can modify you favorite lure to become snagless like the Aruku Shad as it needs a heavy hunting nose down action.

My Favorite Rapala Jerkbait was discontinued..The suspending max Rap which was like the Flash Pointer..Dove 1' and was awesome over weeds or any time of year anywhere.. I never have caught a fish on a scatter rap or Shadow Rap....I use the Original Rapala Floater which is one of the best lures ever made imo, and the jointed Minnow at night slow rolled is great...XRAP Prop great as well.

It depends on what lake I am fishing or what pond...Often I have softbaits and jigs on all my rods at times....

Jigs....Bladed jigs.....Swim Senko. GYB 5" Single tail grub, Power Worm ribbons and I would cheat and sneak in a Larew floating Toad for topwater or flipping.

Big walking baits and pencil Popper with loud One knockers....Or the Rebel T10, or Sebile Splasher...For a frog, I would say I like them all, but the Bobby's perfect frogs are really good and yea, the Pad Crusher poppin frog is hard to beat for the money and quality..Great bait... I also love a Rapala XRAP Prop or Torpedo...Storm Chug bug, and Matzuo Nano popper.....

If I am going to fish with Fluoro for punching, flipping, or pitching heavy weeds, I don't like using a leader for the simple fact that I don't want 2 knots that can potentially fail no matter how good you are at tying knots, or take your time. I use leader on braid all the time and like to put a long enough piece so it reaches the first guide on my rod, but when flipping, I go straight braid or straight fluorocarbon....Or Straight Big Game or Copoly. I am convinced that in some weeds and structure, especially floating patches of cabbage and even pads with stalks will be more productive if you use a line other than braid....My reasoning and I first had this suggested to me by a friend I was fishing with, is that braid is loud when it rubs against the weeds,or stalks, and if windy, you can often hear braid from above the water and if you are flipping you are in close so fish hear everything..Braid is great for landing fish since it saws through weeds, but when lifting your bait it also rubs and makes noise... I still use braid in many spots but braid also breaks often if you are not aware of a any fraying which can happen easy compared to a fluorocarbon, Mono, or copoly.. I use 20lb Fluorocarbon for most of my pitching and flipping if not punching since it has 17lb diameter, at least the Red Label, and I use 25lb for any heavy applications that require a heavy weight and a lob. I also use 20lb hybrid which has 32 pounds of breaking strength and only .01 diamater different than Hybrid line of 15lb test, and the 15 breaks at 22 I think...You truly can't tell the difference so the 20lb just makes more sense since it is almost impossible to break, and with the Fluoro coating and way they blend it it is stiff but great for flipping. just don't buy the ultra soft which is meant for spinning reels and is not as abrasion resistant.. To save money, I use braid as backing for Fluorocarbon since it is expensive and I only spool up 30-50 yards on top of the braid, so one pack of 200 yards lasts for 4 changes. If I was back in NY, I would only use 15lb test for most part, big game 15 is a great all around line, but just check diameter and remember, the thicker and the copolys as well as fluoro, will have more memory, but also if using fluro as a leader in cover, I would buy leader material which is more abrasive resistant if only putting like 5-8 feet of leader. I do that for my Medium action rod with 30lb braid, and use 17lb leader alot of times. Keep this in mind...If you want you bait like a square bill to run shallow, then you can go heavy and use 20lb test, it may kill the action a bit, but if you are fishing a wake bait over grass and can't let you bait run deep, than heavier line can help...I like Fluoro for as much as I can use it...Braid frays easy and lines today are so much stronger than they used to be...I often pitch jigs into bushes and shorelines with 10-15lb test line for stealth and you would be amazed how well a good 10lb test line will hold up if you check it often, you also get more strikes with lighter line imo..... Base line size on water clarity and always try to go lighter if you can, but if in nasty stuff, use what you have confidence in..I don't trust 2 knots for flipping or punching personally....50 yards gets you 4 changes on your flipping stick of 25lb test fluoro which rarely breaks.... I would suggest using 20lb Red Label Seaguar which has 17lb diameter, but for frogs people will tell you that you want a floating line like a Mono or copoly..You really can't go wrong with 20lb yo-zuri Hybrid, or CXX in 20lb...Just use line conditioner and break them in....Trilene Xt is easier to handle and at 20lbs is really strong...No wrong answer here, it all depends on the cover you are throwing too....I use a Swivel with a frog in lighter cover and just tie it to a leader, I just grab leader material which is Nylon or mono that Triple fish sells since it is inexpensive and awesome line made in Germany as an OEM.

I was thinking it is probably more like a Fluoro leader which is stiffer and more abrasion resistant imo than just using a regular spool of flurocarbon...I use Seaguar Leader for most of my fishing, and have always felt like Seaguar line was the best value overall since it is one of the only brands for me that rarely fails and when it does, usually it was a rushed knot or something I did wrong... The lines today are getting so much better...I was anti Fluorocarbon 2-3 years ago and had nothing but issues with it, now I don't know how I ever got by without it...I love the fact that 20lb Seaguar Fluoro has the dia of 17lb test, and also how good it is for fishing shorelines and you almost never have to retie....I want to try this line, I like using Fluoro for fishing certain weeds better than Braid and also wood for most part since it rarely gets snagged or frayed and is quiet...Some Weeds with stalks, if you are using braid, I am convinced the fish can hear that rubbing that is great for landing fish, but I am convinced I get more strikes with 25lb test than 65lb braid buy I know that is subjective and personal confidence... My point is that Seaguar seems to be ahead of the curve when it comes to designing Fluorocarbon, I know other brands are also really good, but for some reason Seaguar is what all the saltwater guys buy and they are fishing more rough areas than we are for most part...I woud not hesitate to buy it since you know it will last forever, only spool about 30-50 yards on top of your braid for punching, flipping, and close combat...That is why paying more for line makes sense....

I would start out buying whatever finesse worm is on sale and get the colors you have the most confidence in...A straight tail worm is good to learn with imo, easy to rig etc., line twist, but you can use the same soft baits you texas rig if you wanted... I know lots of people who power shot bigger baits at times, I have never gotten any good at it, and don't have the patience, but I have had success nose hooking a rage craw or beaver and throw it on a drop shot.. The ZMan Baits are really good actually, once the salt comes off they float, but the trick worm is always a safe choice or any zoom finesse worm, Roboworm, senko, or small craw etc... Have fun, experiment with a fluke, tube etc...

Thanks for the responses...Yum usually makes good baits so I figured they had to be good I just have not seen them yet except online...I like the price and colors, and I love the dinger as well for a different reason..I like to flip with a Stick worm, and I like the hook slot for texposing and it stays in place easy....I like how they lowered prices to compete with Havoc and zoom....The new Christie Craw looked good in the water, didn't get bit when I used it but I was not getting bit on anything so I still like it as a small bait with not too much action. I need to try the dinger or senko on a swim jig as a trailer, I use the caffiene shad which is really the same thing since it is all straight tail I guess...I actually use the Houdini Shads as my main fluke since it can be fished like a swimbait or buzzbait etc...The SK fluke is just awesome as far as texture and action, color, and I just love the caffiene shad...lots of baits look just like it, but nothing has that tail action or is as heavily salted and I don't care about them tearing easy because they get bit some days better than anything else in the fluke/stick bait department... Too many baits that are good....I like almost every bait if I think about it...The senko dinger is actually much more versatile than I ever realized..It truly can't be fished wrong...

The one place in Tampa is a wholesaler/liquidator so he gets all kinds of deals it just depends on what tackle shop goes out of business etc...He also orders tons of hooks in bulk and he has had the Owner st-41's for $3.50 I think I paid without tax..I picked up 30 packs about a month ago, sold 25 for $7.99 each and then kept the rest for free...I just wish he had more sizes since only 1/0,1,2, may have had 4... He often gets the KVD triple grips the nice ones not the cheaper ones and does a bag of 100 for 14.99 which is decent.. I can grab you a few packs and hook you up next time I stop by if he still has them..I drop off packages at the post office at lunch daily, so I could help you out just not sure when I can stop by again...I would charge you what I pay if you need them....I stop by every week because I have an addiction to fishing tackle and I always want to make sure I don't miss anything...Which is crazy since I don't need any tackle but I am a sucker for close outs and deals on good stuff. I also love the older vintage lures that always show up when small mom and pop shops go out of business and lures from the 70's show up on in packaging.... Check Hagens fish...They sell the deathtraps from Daichi for like .18 each, 100 min, all sizes I believe, no wholesale number needed, you can buy less and only pay extra 1% or something minor..They carry every brand except Owner.Owner are hard to find wholesale unless in packs from a distributor usually. Regular Triple grips are inexpensive as well, Barlows is actually very expensive imo.... Let me know. Thanks

I just started using the Batswinz from Z-man and so far I like them...But for subtle, I like a Zoom Critter craw in small size for smaller jigs, bigger size for larger jigs... I also use a 4" or 5" double tail grub...Single tail as well....just depends what they are feeding on...You can trim a double tail grub to give it less action similar to cutting down a ribbon tail worm to get a Cut tail worm.... small zoom lizard can also make a good trailer on a jig, get creative, I know guys who use senkos as jig trailers and it works....I think the key in cold water or pressured situations is the fall rate, so for a slow fall a spider grub will bulk up the jig, slow the fall, and give you some action with the twin tails..If you want a faster fall less bulk, just toss no a double tail grub from any brand..I like Chompers and Bass Pro grubs or GYB but any chunk, craw etc.. will work if you get the fall rate correct etc... I tend to move my baits too fast, and I like to use a slower gear ratio and shorter rod in the cold in case I forget....I also think 1/4 vs. 3/8 can make a huge difference. Also, in stained water I like to mix colors...Green pumpkin with black and red etc...Easy for them to see two tones imo

I was getting ready to order some new Swim Senkos since it is one of my favorite baits, but I noticed that Yum has a swim Dinger now, and it looks like the Tail may be longer and thinner from the picture, so how does it compare to the GYB version or even the swimming cane stick? I know it is a "knock off" but the swim Senko is super expensive and small fish love em this time of year, so they just get hard to afford...I will always use the GYB version for slow fishing and for certain colors as I love the way GYB baits sink, but I know the Dinger is a good worm as well. Are they thinner, lighter etc...I can't find them in local stores. Anyone use this and like it? I was not happy with the new DInger with the ultravibe speed worm tail that zoom makes. I am looking for a cheaper version to simply chuck and wind at a medium speed and as a trailer on jigs....If anyone has used both I would appreciate any advice. I love the Swim Senko, but is the Yum a decent replacement for certain times?

Yes it is a bps lure....Xps I think...They also have one similar I like that used to be the Lews Speed minnow...One floats slowly one floats fast, the one you have is on sale right now and is being discod I think...The one for 2.99 is actually really good once you change the hooks. I usually neve have issues with hooks, but because the smaller sizes are designed for light line, they are just super thin and weak... I change the inexpensive BPS lures that I like, ones like the Egg, with VMC inline in same size only because I am afraid to mess up the action since wake baits and minnow baits are so sensitive to change...

Kastiking uses double shielded bearings abec 7 I belive on the newer reels....People get all upset about Kastking but all they are is a new start up business who is importing and having reels designed and selling them much cheaper than people are used too...Try to find a negative review on a Kast King reel..Also, I am familiar with the OEM they use to make their reels... Visit Eposeidon the name of the Company on Long Island who makes all kinds of tackle and notice that they sell Daiwa, Abu Garcia and other products...Offer money back warranties they stand by...Get used to New companies coming out with reels and lures that are not marked up like a certain lures on the market.. made in china for pennies, shipped to Japan for painting, shipped to america for packaging....Quote from Tackle Retailer magazine..... I have used kastking lures and have been happy. I also know people who love their stuff, guys who are like me and own a dozen baitcasters on rods right now, and another dozen all over in storage...All Daiwa, Okuma, high end stuff..All made in China, Kastking is actually making sure they are getting good quality control from the engineers already designing your reels and making them.

I think it is the lead inside...I have some older ones but they need to be super old...The days of the metal lip for the deep divinng rogues...KVD won a Classic on the older rogue a few years ago....

The Flash minnow is designed to run less than a foot, they have several models, actually more than several on their international site, but the Max Rap from Rapala was designed to be similar to the flash minnow.. It is a killer lure, I had one for a bit but lost it, and I had a slow floater, maybe it suspends in the cold, but they are designed to be fished over grass in placed most guys throw a fluke...All Flash minnows are great lures as far as I know.. I just have not been able to find a floater and I am not sure if the one I had just floated slowly instead but I loved it instead of using a Long A or Rapala...The Max Rap suspends in salt water but will float in some temps in fresh water, only dives about 8" on 20lb test, and is deadly over grass...I like the slim profile and the flash minnow has colors that are hard to replicate....Suspenders over grass that only dive a 1' are out there, but I don't like them since I can't see them at all times....I use a suspending Flatt Shad by Sebile if I need a suspending bait to work in a foot of water since it casts further than a floater, and if you just pull of the split ring it will float slowly and dive only a few inches...it gets bit when not moving most times, I like to either slow roll the minnow lures a few feet then pause for a long count, shake, and if that doesn't work the twitch twitch pause often is best...In the summer I have had days you wouldn't get bites if you paused it, key was to keep the Jerkbait moving just under the surface and barley let it splash....You don't need to see it on those days as they kill it, but if windy with waves, and casting far, just color the top with some red nail polish so you can see when a fish swirls and misses so you can follow up with a soft bait. You get alot of swipes on floating jerkbaits that give away the location, its amazing how a lure with 3 treble hooks can have a lower hook up percentage than a frog at times...Usually a color change from chrome to gold can help, but also a size....but usually they are just not committing, they will almost always hit a worm tossed at em and big fish often barely make a ripple on the surface, don't think little swirls are panfish etc....Big Fish are curious at times and will just push it with their nose....If you can fish a hard bait over grass it is always worth a try when every other boat is throwing a fluke, worm or frog...Most guys also throw round wake baits and fish them to fast imo alot of times, but you have a great lure even if it sinks...That lure has wicked action when you twitch it or swim it..... You can still find Top Gun's from Bagley on Ebay for under $5 since they made that lure up to the point of the prism image series and I have been using the Top Gun and the Bang o lure for over grass forever..I just with they casted further but if you made them a suspender that helps with casting distance, I prefer a floater, but that is just me...I will load up suspend dots to get it just right however....I thought I wast the only one with a tray of Top Guns...

I have been using the timber Tiger for a long time and it comes through wood and trees nicely, and it has a nice action when you hit something and dead stick it....It floats up nicely and the sides of the crank help with it running true at higher speeds, and also with deflections...I picked up a bunch at a yard sale and a few of them had dressed trebles on the rear with a double hook, and I am not sure which one's they are since they are so beat up but I have a few that run about 5-6' on 15lb test Big Game and the color is mostly gone except for some white and green on a few, and I do the best with the one's with the dressed rear hook, and also when I add a chart line to each side with a spike it marker since the shape is vey similar to a bluegill. The Timber Tiger is almost a hybrid of the Speed Shad by Luhr Jensen, those wings give it a unique action, I am not afraid to lose them and I chuck em in nasty spots and they come out really good. You can still buy them on TW and anyone who uses them usually appreciates how well they work...They can be tuned easily if you like a bait that hunts more to one side etc...Good Buy... I have always felt that on smaller lakes and ponds it is better to throw lures fish are not seeing as often, and the Timber Tiger along with the Big O rarely get used anymore compared to Strike king and all the square bill look a likes surely pressure fish....The colors of the Timber Tiger are unique as well...You can also put big hooks on the bait and it still has a nice action...

I think a fluke is like a senko...Can't really fish it wrong for the most part...Usually slow works well but sometimes when they are busting bait or super active they want it as fast as you can work it, sometimes if they are suspended in clear water they want it falling fast... The Yum Houdini Shad is a great fluke since it has a paddle tail that you can make forked and adjust...It's actually a popular flipping bait since it get's though weeds well, and has good vibrations....But I like to start slow and make it look like easy injured prey, if nothing, then skip it, few fast twitches and let it sink slowly and often it will get bit...The Strike King Caffiene shad is also a favorite since it casts a mile and has a nice glide as well....

I need to use a scrounger more...I tried it a few times and never had any action so I quickly changed...I think I was working it too fast or just didn't have the right weight or bait... I am going to actually try it with a sluggo as mentioned above or a fluke..I used it last time in a small size with a small sassy shad and it looked good but I quickly gave up after my buddy caught a few....I never really gave much thought about fishing it like a chatterbait, I was thinking Shaky head lift and drop for some reason... Too many lures, Ned, Neko, Flick shake, mendotta, jika rigs, swing jigs, rage rigs...I like the idea of fishing it similar to a chatterbait, weedless with the guard, wobbles, goint to try it with a horizontal approach..Seems like it works well for people and I never see anyone using it...