primetime

Rebel Magnum Pop'r, Swim Senko, 10" Black blue tail culprit or black blue fat max culprit

I throw floating minnows and especially the Rapala floater often, especially when fishing smaller ponds etc...One thing I have learned over the years is how often Bass will crush a lure with 3 treble hooks and not get hooked. Often times they are just smacking at it, or not fully committing, or it could be the hooks(some of the stock hooks on the older Rapala plugs are dull, but newer vmc hooks are good imo), pulling it away too quickly after you see the strike, or if fishing braid, putting too much pressure on them, setting hook to hard etc...One thing I like to do with both floating minnows and hollow frogs is put a bright line or spot on the top of the lure so I can see when it vanishes. If it disappears, you should hook that fish, and you shouldnt need much more than some pressure if you get the slack out. I have found that a softer tip can be helpful, and when a fish blows up on it, I reel in slack, make sure fish has it, then just do a sweep like on a carolina rig hookset but often not even that hard. Just getting tension on the fish will often be good enough if they truly committed. Some days you will only hook 2/10 blowups or swipes because they never actually take it, sometimes changing the color or size of the bait can help...Some days you seem to hook them all, but it can be frustrating at times especially when you know they are Bass. The Rapala hooks are smaller as others have said, and I like to fish the Rapala minnow on light Mono to get more stretch and to keep it more buoyant. I always try to use the lightest line possible since it effects the action on a balsa bait, and do my best to be patient after a strike, just like if fishing a frog or plastic worm...Once they get the lure down, you should hook most of them, but it can be tough when its an aggressive strike, instinct is to always set the hook too quickly many times. Hope that helps.

One technique that often works over submerged grass, especially when it is pressured, is to work a floating jerkbait over the grass. You can get a Bomber Long A Floater, Rapala Floater, Bagleys bang o lure, or something jointed also can be the ticket with a Rebel, or even the Red fin as a wake bait...It can take some time to get used to the feel of ticking the grass, then ripping it off, or often times finding seems to simply work it really slow so it avoids the grass all together. It is one of my favorite techniques here in Florida when everyone fishes Grass the same ways as mentioned, and sometimes a different look truly works as Bass to become educated "I truly believe that". Most people would throw a fluke as a jerkbait, or a weedless frog or toad on top to avoid the weeds, and of course that can work at times, but bass are not always willing to come to the surface, or at least the bigger ones. Something about a jerkbait fished over grass just seems to catch bigger fish imo than soft baits "When it works". I learned this technique when I first moved to Florida fishing as a Co-Angler, and they guy I learned it from was an extremely accomplished angler and Guide. Having Wind can actually help and slight chop on the water is beneficial imo.... It takes patience on most days, but if you can figure out where the fish are positioned, it can be extremely effective. I generally use the Bomber Long A #15 which runs shallow, but when you fish it on heavy braid or heavy mono, you can work it with only a few inches of water underneath. I find it is also a good way to find fish as they often miss it, so you can follow up with a soft bait, or just keep focusing on the area. Using braid with treble hooks is not considered "Correct" but it floats, and in order to get fish landed, you need to keep them from burying in the grass & it helps feeling the bait, but I do like to use mono either as a leader or straight & Heavy mono keeps the lure more buoyant. I have also started fishing the Swim Senko again and forgot how well that bait works. It is the perfect combo of swimbait, Jerkbait, and pitching bait....Something about the GYB design and tail makes it worth the money imo, and makes a fantastic trailer on a swim jig or chatterbait. Hope that helps....If fish are aggressive, sometimes a wake bait fished quickly can be the ticket. I tend to use the Mann's wake, Bandit Footloose, Red Fins & the older Strike King Wake shad...

I would look for the Daiwa BG combo on sale....You can often find the Rod and reel for $120, and its actually a nice rod. I use the BG 2500 for fresh and salt, it is marketed as a saltwater reel and believe the bearings are sealed, with that said, I have 2 that have been going strong for over 4-5 years... All the Daiwa reels over $50 are good values. I just picked up a Revros which i really like, its super smooth, and the Regal and Legalis are also nice reels for the money. The Okuma Helios is a nice reel, may be a bit over $100 but is a good value and Okuma has fantastic customer service if you ever have an issue or need parts from my experience. For $100 you can find plenty of good reels, Sometimes you can find an older model on Ebay much cheaper than you would normally spend. New is new....

I use White most of the time, Black and blue, and green pumpkin....I usually match trailer with skirt color and I like to sand the blade to make it dull or color it black with a sharpie...I dont like too much flash for some reason, Always feel like extra flash and shine catches less fish for me.....The Chatterbait puts off plenty of vibration, so they can find it in dirty water. I use White if fishing off shore in areas where shad may be, and green pumpkin or black blue when fishing in areas that have bluegill like canals, shorelines etc...I am finally starting to get better with a chatterbait, I feel like the trailer is almost the most important part. I still have not put in enough time to call it a confidence bait yet, but been trying to fish them more last couple years. I feel like white is always a safe color, kind of like a spinnerbait, seems to work in any area.

I still have a few of the Yo-zuri "Arms" series of lures as a local liquidator still has some on the shelf...I believe it was there first freshwater line....The ZZ-Pop, they had a Pins Minnow 90, a little walker, ultraight Aile Minnow, and the first version of the Vibe lipless cranks.The Aile Magnet Topwater is still one of my go to walkers. I still have a gold zz Pop in my box that I always carry. Has a unique action and shape, kind of like a smaller version of the Heddon Spit N Image. The little walker is another good bait as it has the long cast bearings, is the size of the zara puppy, came in translucent colors like watermelon, and had a cupped face like a sammy....Yo-zuri has always made quality lures. The other lure they had was the Crystal vibe silent heavy lipless crank/Spoon which people pay good money for on Ebay.....Clown color on bottom

Only time I have ever noticed a difference in quality for Zoom or any of the other baits made with them, is when there is a clearance sale or liquidation somewhere....I do believe some companies bag their "Slight Blemishes" and sell them cheaper at times....Can't throw all the blemishes in the garbage cause they still catch fish and I usually dont notice much of a difference unless it has a paddle tail.

I would have a hard time not pitching that area, but as others said...Swim Jigs, Swimming worms, Mojo Rig to cover water if possible with a trick worm, or fish a fluke or Senko. I would also throw a floating jerkbait over the grass or a torpedo. If not too thick, maybe you can rip a trap through that area....Looks like an awesome spot..The kind of place you can really figure out over time.

Most of the weighted hooks frustrate me in grass....I prefer a bullet weight in weeds and pretty much overall unless fishing deeper open water then I will use a jig head with open hook. I only throw the bigger ones weightless when swimming on the surface.

I often throw the little pad crusher on lighter tackle, It is a good frog like all the booyah frogs. Sometimes that little frog is what they want, even bigger fish. Big fish will smash the Jr. especially since almost everyone throws the bigger frogs all summer long. If getting short strikes, sometimes trimming the skirt helps, but its a great little frog for pond fishing or skipping into tight places, You can easily hook smaller fish which helps keep your confidence high & have action. Booyah did a great job with the pricing and design of all their frogs.

I would suggest the 55T is the perfect size overall,Typically the first size I use for locating fish as it will get strikes form Fish of all sizes, and you can hook most of them as well. If I had to only bring one, it would be the middle size. The bigger 65T is a great frog, And for a large body it certainly has a place & worth having. I tend to hook more fish than I do with other frogs of similar size. The little 45 T has its place as well, Its small but fishing pressured water or when bluegill are small etc, it casts well and does the job.....I am not a fan of Live Target Lures, but they did a great job from day one with the frogs. They are worth $10 imo without question. You won't regret any live target frog, same with a Booyah frog, both great values and if I miss a hook set I know it was likely my fault, and not a faulty design etc...I don't have the same confidence with other frogs in the same price range and I have purchased and tried them all, kind of an addiction to buying every new frog that comes out. Even if I bring a box full of frogs, I almost always throw a Live target Or poppin pad crusher and both are essentially the same size.

The BPS Speed shad is more durable and seems to catch fish just as well as the Rage Swimmer. Price wise, they are a little bit less expensive than the Rage Swimmer, and I have never noticed any difference in results. The Keitechs are the softest from my experience and at times I feel they work the best, but price wise I would go with the Speed Shads as overall best value for a ribbed body swimbait. They also have nice patterns and packaged well. The gambler Ez Series of swimbaits is probably my favorite overall paddle tail here in Florida as they are durable and rarely tear easily, come in plenty of sizes. They have a new one called "Vibes" which is 3.75", has a flat bottom, and is a really nice swimbait as well. Designed to be a trailer on swim jigs/Chatterbaits but it has a nice action with the flat bottom and ribbed body.

Soft plastics...Texas rig, Carolina rig, split shot rig and weightless. Also topwater-Walking baits, Frogs, Prop baits, Poppers & Floating Jerkbaits...I throw some type of floating Jerkbait every time I go fishing in any condition, I will modify them to fit situations with suspend dots, swap trebles, file lips etc.... I am most confident with either a Rapala Minnow,Jointed minnow for waking, or bomber long a, FLoating Rogue & Bagleys Bang o lure....And the gold/Chart jointed Rebel and a Red Fin. I recently started throwing the Duel Floating minnows as they have smaller 2-3" jerkbaits that cast a mile with awesome hooks. Also the Daiwa TD Minnow

Bomber 2A in baby bass color.

I was looking to see how everyone feels about weed guards on a Swim Jig. I have noticed that I miss more fish when swimming a "heavy Cover" Swim Jig then I do when I use a typical swim jig with a thinner weed guard. I have started to use the heavier weed guards that are on jigs like the "Dirty Jigs,Nichols Sledge hammer, Hack Attack Swim,gambler swim, instead of the "true" swim jig original design since I am throwing them on heavy braid & thick grass. I feel as though I am missing more strikes, losing more fish than I typically would, and every time I look at these jigs I feel as though I am essentially swimming a Flipping Jig. I started thinking....what is the difference between a heavy swim jig with vertical line tie, heavy weed guard, then many of the flipping/Grass Jigs other than eyes and colors? I am thinking a "Heavy Cover Swim jig" is just a flipping jig with a beefed up hook and weed guard which then is tougher to get a good hook set on if casting far away, rather than setting the hook in close quarters. I do believe that a jig gets bigger strikes than a texas rig with punch skirt, Freedom style jig without a skirt etc...Curious to hear some advice from guys who swim jigs often. I have a good rod, pretty good with a jig typically (Not an expert by far) but would say competent. I realize the strikes mostly come from ripping off of grass & deflection, so I want to use a Jig, but curious if you think weed guards are too stout for swimming on many of these jigs? Sorry for the ramble, in a rush with Mother's day, and then squeezing in a few hours of fishing after. Any and all advice welcomed. Thanks as always.

Some are one knockers, some are not...I know the chug n spook is a one knocker, then the Jr. as well, at least the ones I have. They have a bunch of versions, it is confusing, but they all work. I have a bunch that I believe are older and are silent. Sometimes you can find the spooks in the dollar bin at walmart, and when they have silver hooks, it is the same lure, just saltwater trebles which I dont mind since I use heavy line....Easy to change hooks on a walking bait. They should have descriptions on the Pradco site, or heddon website.

I have an older BPS Extreme Medium light casting rod and its actually pretty good for light baits and lighter line....Another good option especially for the price is the good old Berkley Lighting Rod, good tip, $40, and lightweight etc.... I like the bass pro rods when on sale. I would go to the store for anything under say $80 as many of the rods under that price range just feel inferior imo, not all but some...The bionic blade looked great in the catalog, and then when I received it, was not happy....I like the carbon lights but they have a bunch of different price ranges/quality. I would imagine they are a good value, Most BPS tackle is reliable. I actually prefer spinning gear for ultralight or light rigs like the Ned, Medium light vs. Medium is different for different brands.....You may find a medium that feels better or lighter than some Medium lights.

I pitch, swim & drag texas rigged worms, & craws/swimbaits and always look for a topwater bite....If conditions are right, I will look to throw a floating jerkbait like the bomber long a or Rapala, Bagley Bang o lure etc... ALways have a torpedo rigged up on a spinning rod & hollow body frog as well.

I don't like alot of flash, so I tend to use the old school pearl and black, and then the helinksi shad I think its called. Has some chart and purple in it.... I actually like all Rapala colors. I just carry 2 shad patterns,one craw, one firetiger....I never got into the special colors they have in BPS. Just buy them at Dicks which has the main ones you need. I usually add a few dots or lines on most of my solid color cranks to make them look more natural. Just use a black sharpie.

I was just going through some plastics to pack for the weekend, and I came across a bag of pumpkinseed Culprits and tubes. I used to use that color in NY as one of my go to's. I would think it is still a really good color. Companies do not really make it any more, or at least you rarely hear about it. I guess Green Pumpkin Took over? The culprit color is translucent, Going to try it again. Also going to try the old salt and pepper worm. Strange how colors become less popular. A grape worm was considered the best universal color at one time...Solid purple is rarely on shelves.

I have a bad habit of shaking drop shots too much, moving it too fast....Maybe thats why I only catch dinks on it....

One of the best bass I ever hooked into was after a backlash, and while I was trying to fix it....a good 3-4 minutes later my Devils horse was sucked underwater and unfortunately.....It broke surface and is a bad memory to this day. I have had days where the only time I could get bit on a fluke or senko was when it was sitting on bottom. I typically discover this pattern by accident. I never wait more than 10 seconds for most part, but sometimes they wait for the bait to sit on bottom before grabbing it. Soft baits still move when you are not moving them, it takes patience but it is a legit technique, just not designed for my style.

A double tail or single tail grub is always a safe bet. I will sometimes add a spider grub to give the bait more bulk and slow the fall. The GYB spider grub pretty much catches fish no matter how you rig it or fish it....

Never seen that but it kind of makes sense if using a trailer hook I guess. Alot of times I truly believe its simply giving fish a different look then they ever see. That is a subtle way of almost having it look like a school of baitfish...Kind of the baitball concept maybe. Interesting picture.

I agree with above. add a split shot or rig up a light carolina rig with a bullet weight and leave a leader long enough to rise above the slime. I would use a floating/slow sinking worm, Z-man stick worm, Gambler Floating worms etc... Standard round bend hook, not an ewg imo. I would also use Mono as it floats. I have never found any bait or jig that can come through heavy slime, although a pegged texas rig as stated above is another option if its not really thick.