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The key to fishing grass is to stay as vertical as possible with your presentation. The farther from the boat you flip, pitch, or punch the more grass you're having to work through. The second key is finesse, most angles try forcing the jig through the grass which is all wrong. Ya gotta finesse your jig throw the grass! "If bass want a Jig, you think a punch rig of same weight, same trailer looks that different? Just curious." The bass do! Thanks for the tips. I have a habit of staying too far away from targets for fear of spooking fish & I guess I need to work on a vertical entry. I have a habit of always "Pitching" when I should be truly Flipping which only gives you so much line, so being close makes sense. I ordered some Oldham jigs a few years ago after reading about them, but the ones I have are not as compact which nice. I guess 1.25 is better than 1 oz & I only have some Hack Attack jigs in 1.25 which I only like around Kissimmee grass & easy stuff but I always have felt a Jig gives you a better Hook set. Many guys have told me the Jig is different than a punch skirt & like everything else can be a game changer. Thanks again for the help. Florida Grass fishing is always a challenge & I think we called Oldham direct but I had a friend order them, just remember they were expensive but I guess they are worth it since I remember having to wait almost a month due to demand. Good Stuff. Cold front Coming Sunday so Getting ready for some time on the water tomorrow. Maybe I can get the 14lber I often dream of catching. I guess I can fit some new tackle in one of my boxes. I hope his Min for free shipping is not $100 or I will need a new box.

You can find Tungsten on Ebay where a 1 ounce weight is $3, 5/16 is $1, and you can buy 12 packs of 1 ounce for 36 dollars. I would never pay the regular prices from Retail since the mark up is crazy. I also call the companies who sell Tungsten and ask if they have blemishes, or overstocks. You can get lucky with companies like Vike, Picasso etc. I went crazy when I found blemishes and ordered 50 of each size over 1/2 ounce since they were as cheap as brass.

That Strike King Swing Jig is basically a Texas Rig only with the head of a jig. I agree, some people can get a jig through anything but I have found places where it is just frustrating even with a medlock or the Dirty Jig you have there, or is that the Oldham jig? I like the Salt craw, Punch skirt and hook you have in the pic. that is perfect. What size hook is that? 2/0? Looks small but I actually started using standard heavy guage Offset Round bend hooks since those barbs drive me nuts, but the Owner Twist Lock hooks make life easy.... I think the key for the Jig is the angle it lands right? I find certain weeds or mats that need more than an ounce and have alot of loose weeds, then the weedguard collects weed, but I have seen guys do things with Jigs that I just don't have patience for. If Bass want a Jig, you think a punch rig of same weight, same trailer looks that different? Just curious. I like the hook up ratio better, but I also think Tungsten is a must when you go over 1/2 ounce, a 1.5 ounce Lead weight would pop the mouth open of an Alligator. How do you tie your punch rigs? Is that one of the cones for making spinners that you tied it off on? I just used the brass cones that weigh .3 oz to make them heavier than the regular punch hub. I have not tried the SK swing jig, do they make that over 1/2 ounce? Barlows sells the bullet weights with a clip where you can attach any hook on them, Mustad now makes the Fastach, I was thinking about getting some but I still want to figure out how to pitch with a power shot. Can't figure that out, I get twists and snagged & quit within 10 minutes. I also will never use any Tungsten weight without inserts, Lost 2 huge fish this year because Tungsten is too sharp, even the "Smooth" expensive one's, I go Silver with inserts and coat the line now. Sensitivity doesn't matter for pitching, I never noticed Tunsten making a difference except for size it is key. Just my take. I use that same set up with the salt craw. Been working for years.

If cover is really thick a texas rig will often get through easier, a punch skirt is used to give the bait more bulk, profile of a jig, and can be modified with rattles, color, and for some reason some days fish will want a punch skirt, some days they won't touch anything but a soft bait without a skirt. If you can get a jig through the cover and you can buy punch jigs but I have only found a few that work in heavy weeds and they are expensive & can be tough to use since the Lead on a 1 ounce Jig makes it a large profile & really I like a Jig in Tall Grass, Wood, Hard bottom, and I almost always use a texas rig during the spring and summer when getting through mats, down here it takes 1 oz or even 1.5 to get through, and I prefer baits that slip through easy and not hang up. Ribbon Tails, even many creatures are hard to get through but baits like the BB Cricket, Otter, Rodent, Most beavers, Speed Craws, and the Punch baits like Culprits Incredicraw, RI beavers, Salt Craws, Flipping Tubes all go through easy. heavier soft baits like a Power Team Punch Bully can be good since you can get through mats with less weight, and one of the best punching baits is a Stick worm since 1/2-3/4 can work when you usually need heavier. The key is practice, you get better every time you try it, start to realize when you hit a good stretch of cover, learn or get a feeling for when a slower fall rate or faster rate is better, and sometimes you need to let the bait soak, hop it twice, and I always peg the bait to the mat and bang it for a good 20 seconds every so often siince suspended fish will often feed on bait or craws stuck on the canopy. Lily Pads are good for jigs cause you can swim them out, the thing I learned and I hired a guide when I first moved to Florida to learn how to flip/Punch, really its pitching but spending time learning what weeds hold fish, why and when, & proper technique, and when learning it is not easy. I would be in a boat with a friend who grew up pitching and he would catch 20 fish in a day and I would have 2. Makes you want to use a frog, but it starts to click. I practiced in ponds, I would stand up high and work on hitting the same spot over and over and try to make the bait enter without much splash, then learn how to weight the jig/bait, at first I relied only on line watching, also Tungsten is a must imo when over 1/2 ounce due to size, huge weights pop the mouth open and you miss fish at times, but guys who are good can put a 1/4 ounce Jig in a small bucket from 15 feet away 9/10 times, & that is really the key. If you are making noise, you are most likely spooking fish. Best thing to do is watch videos. As far as baits, I consider most baits as Hook Holders since they fall so fast that fish just react most of the time, and hooking them is only half the task, getting them out is tricky, but you will catch bigger fish pitching all day then fishing moving baits as a general rule. It looks easy but it can be very boring, many days you go 2-3 hours without any strikes, start day dreaming and then you get slammed and if you miss it can really hurt. You may get 5 fish in one 30 yard stretch and spend 8 hours without action so it is not always fun....If you learn a lake, then it is fun because you know when to fish edges, how to fish the cover, and best to go with someone, enter a tournament as non boater but always tell the boater your skill level. I still consider myself average after a decade of living in Florida, I love pitching when I visit NY since it is so much faster & easier to find fish in the lakes, you don't need huge weights. Color is black/Blue, Black red, anything with contrast, but you only need a few contrasting dark colors, gp, something with chart, something white if shad are stuck in grass. Hope that helps. Some guys use the Jig Rig but I have not done well with the jig rig or swing jigs, nothing seems to work as well as a texas rig and I don't snell or do anything fancy, just tie a good knot and throw frogs, get bit, then work the area.

Match the forage. Salt and Pepper, White, Shad colors in lakes with shad, if golden shiners, go with green pumpkin gold flake, or smoke gold flake, but I use watermelons, green pumpkin, chart and white... I usually fish them weightless in fall, often fish them like a fluke/Sluggo, maybe rig them on a ned rig or jig head in small 2.5-3", or wacky rig a 4" depending on size of forage fish are feeding on. I would not change much, Sometimes a slow fall is good so maybe use mono, smaller hook, full zinker or Zero which will float when salt is gone but I like to fish them weightless texas rigged most of the time and I like 4" or 5" and I use alot of colors in baitfish tones even Junebug if bluegills present... Also, Slow....Maybe add a small Willow blade to the back for flash and swim it which is known as the MJ rig if you google it. Works well, I saw Timmy Horton show it on TV and it works as a weedless presentation which keeps you moving while cold. Hope that helps.

http://www.thefishermansjournal.com/kastking-carbon-baitcasting-reel-makes-debut/ http://rodreelguide.com/best-fishing-reels-review-2017-the-ultimate-buyers-guide/?WPBW_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frodreelguide.com%2F Eposiedon is where to buy even if more money...Specs are insane and verified. SUPER LIGHT WEIGHT - Let’s you fish all day long and cast hundreds of times without fatigue. A KastKing® Stealth baitcasting reel weighs only 6 ounces. POWERFUL - Stealth’s 16.5 lbs / 7.5 kg dynamic drag system with 4 carbon fiber disks and hardened aluminum washers gives you whopper-stopping drag power. SMOOTH - 11 anti-corrosion shielded ball bearings made from the finest bearing steel plus an instant-stop one way bearing clutch system delivers the smoothest performance and lightning fast hook sets. PEAK PERFORMANCE 7.0:1 Gear Ratio, hardened forged aluminum alloy gears, aerospace construction solid carbon frame, aircraft-grade aluminum components, carbon fiber handle, braided line ready ceramic line guide insert, sure-grip EVA knobs to give you the highest performance and strength. Stealth baitcasting carbon construction reels are 100% corrosion resistant. UNIQUE BRAKING – Tournament-ready 7 magnet dual brake system combines the best of centrifugal and magnetic braking. The Stealth baitcaster reel's unique braking system is accessed through an easy open side hatch cover. Won Icast award, the carbon reel has double shielded bearings, lighter than most reels with all good reviews, even this site. If you have an issue they honor warranties and they were giving away spinning reels to guides on Long Island when they first opened a few years ago and My brother has one going on 3 years, spinning reel is a saltwater reel that is only $40 & just check specs since they now have about 8 casting reels in the line. I have friends who have used this reel for the past year and it retails for $50 from the company direct located on Long Island and they are attending all the main shows like Icast and every review for Kast King Carbon casting reel rates it in the same category as reels that are $150 plus, and I was skeptical at first until I used one for several trips and they are beyond light, smooth, and Eposiedon honors warranties, just do not buy from Ebay or Amazon to save $10. The guys who started this company graduated together from Syracuse I believe and they wanted to start a line of reels that offered the same specs that high end reels have but instead of getting huge margins, they are selling them much lower since the cost to buy reels in bulk at the volume they are moving is actually really cheap but the min purchase is 3k or 10-30k for their pricing. The company is an authorized dealer of Abu Garcia, Lews, and Daiwa if you visit the site..So I wonder who the OEM is? The specs according to one magazine were ranked #2 out of every reel out this year...Now I know Magazines can be misleading but check these specs and I can say with 100% certainty, it can land 25lb Redfish, Big Snook, and pull 7lb bass out of Heavy cover no problem. Smooth drag, light with carbon plated.

I only use braid for Topwater on casting rods for Frogs in cover, stained water since I only use braid that is at least 10lb diamater on casting reels since lighter lines seem to dig in and cause issues. I am used to 10-17lb diameter, but here are some issues with braid and topwater. If lures have treble hooks, braid will often get tangled with the hooks since it floats on the surface. I believe if in open water, and your braid is floating on the surface, it spooks fish. You can make an effort to keep your tip high and keep the line out of the water but maybe I am wrong but I think it matters for me. I actually use braid on many rods and for topwater I will often use a 3-4' Mono/Copoly leader, I tie a slim beauty knot so it can go through the guides at times, and I use heavy line on walking lures in 20lb range. In clear water I go lighter like 12-14 since I feel I get more strikes with trranlucent lines plus have abrasion resistance on my side which braid lacks. Many would say it doesn't matter and maybe it doesn't but I trust a leader more than straight braid. I can cast Braid further than Mono or Fluoro and it has more power/No Stretch, so a leader is helpful for treble hooks for stretch plus braid for longer casts since it is thinner. You can use a stiff line with memory that is abrasion resistant like Hybrid or other Copolys hard to handle at times as a main line. I use Fluorocarbon at times for poppers since it sinks and gives it more pop, and I like the abrasion resistance of Fluoro as main line or leader, plus I like that it is marketed as stealth. Fluoro stretches more than Nylon mono, it is more sensitive since it is denser, but I like Braid for most main line or backing to save money. Mono leaders are inexpensive, Float, and knots almost never fail where Fluoro knots fail at times. One thing that matters is buying Fluorcarbon Leader not just line, Especially if fishing areas with abrasions, Leader is stiff, and not meant to be used for casting, it makes a difference. Copoly lines float and Hybrid for example at #20 breaks at 31 so you can be confident in not breaking off fish. It may as well be leader. With new 8 strand soft braids that are now #40-#50 and 8lb dia allow you to cast any lure or bait further and nothing wrong with a swivel either....For Frogs, you really need the braid to cut the weeds to land fish, long hook sets, but if pitching Braid can be loud with rubbing, same with Frogs at times, fish can hear it if you can. I have seen that matter when using frogs & pitching where braid was making too much noise and when that is happening, friction is taking place and that is when leaders are helpful, plus you can make them the length you want to help you know where your bait is at all times...Just a few thoughts, I type fast so did not proof read but hopefully you maybe get a few ideas of what fits your style.

I had an Okuma Guide Series heavy action Rod that I let my friend borrow for a tournament and it broke while he was driving home since it was not secure in the bed of the truck We had a local shop that had all the Guide Series rods which have a lifetime warranty selling for a big discount so I grabbed the Heavy action and a few others and Okuma replaced the Rod for the cost of shipping it back which was $30. Not bad for a rod that sold for $100. It was a Telegraphic which was actually not a bad feature and 7'3" is fine, I like a bigger rod for frogs but 7'6" is not much different, The TCS rods are fantastic, the heavy is plenty good for frogs. I have a Celery Stick which is Medium Heavy and it is super light and almost as nice as the TCS imo, and I use it for heavy applications and it can handle 1 oz easy. Okuma can help you if you call them, they are awesome to deal with, they seem to know their products when you call them regarding power etc. You can also find videos of Scott Martin who explains the TCS line I believe. I have had great luck with all my Okuma Rods except for the one that fell in the water, but Okuma will honor warranties, that is important so I would say a heavy TCS is a good option for Frogs if you like the tip. The Heavy Action TCS should be light so I would think you could use it as a Frog/Heavy cover Pitching/Flipping rod as well. I would put the reel on it you want to use, since it is for Frogs, you just want to make sure it has the ability to hold at least 125 yards of 50-65lb braid, drag power, and either low gear ratio for power, or fast to pick up line to set the hook...Personal preference but 7 feet is good since long casts are key with Frogs and you need back bone and a Fast tip to drive the hooks home on long casts. You have a nice rod for sure.

I purchased the Team Daiwa Casting Rod TW had on sale 2 years ago and I really like the rod. I have also held the Tatula rod and another Daiwa rod that comes on a combo and they are all really nice. I would compare them to Lews and Abu rods, but the Team Daiwa rod is as Nice as my higher end Okuma Rods. I wanted a short 6' Rod Medium Action but the Team Daiwa is listed as medium Heavy but is really Medium power which was Ok since that is what reviews had said. I needed it for Jerkbaits since long or heavy rods can kill your wrist after a few hours. I think I paid $60, Feels 3x as nice, has held up great, & it can handle up to an ounce so you can do almost anything with it. I think it has 7 or 8 guides which is really good for a 6' Rod, They look really nice as well. I would trust any Daiwa, Shimano, main brand, but if you want a really nice specialty rod usually companies that make only rods have the best stuff. With Black Friday coming you can probably find great deals on rods that are overstocks that can fit exactly what you want to do. I feel the rod is the most important piece of the combo, then the line and drag....Daiwa is quality and imo always has been top 2 with Shimano. Since they are a reel company the Rods are nothing special to people who really know their rods, but you get what you pay for when you buy name brands. At least I like the Team Daiwa & a few other Reel company rods but If I were to spend over $75 I need to hold the rod since Once brands Xtra Fast is fast, really not a standard.

I have 3 reels in a plastic bag that I took apart in the last 2 years and I now realize that even with a Schematic putting them back together is not as easy as I thought. I would pay if someone or watch someone since parts have a way of flying away no matter how careful you are. I like using Dish Water, Then Lube and Grease instead of taking apart but You Tube does have good videos of you are mechanically inclined. I am not and your post just made me realize that I am sitting on some nice working reels that I was too ambitious with. I will never take a reel completely apart again unless I mark every piece and really take my time... Anyone need parts, or a reel to put together super cheap? Quantum Burst, BPS Tourney $80 reel, Abu Garcia Sweden made Round reel left Hand that was never used, I lost a piece and can't get the screws to lock correctly, but if anyone is interested let me know. I know the Abu is a popular reel and I can't use left, An old friend purchased it from Bass Pro years ago on a combo and he only took 3 casts with it and backlashed and never used it again. I tried to clean it when he gave it to me and I have the box, papers, all pieces (I think & should) but Don't want to get frustrated putting it together because I can't, and local shops want to charge $30 to assemble, so not doing it. I don't want to see it on Ebay since I am not sure if I lost a screw or something, but if anyone is good with reels, it is marked Sweden etc...I would rather a Fisherman who likes reels get it than just sell it without a good picture... Taking reels apart seems so easy until a spring shoots across the room, after that happens, the spiral begins & I then try using parts from older reels that no longer work and forget what is what. Lots of Gander Mountain/Pinnacle parts mixed in the bag... if you find the schematic, or research who the OEM was. I know many reels made by Pinnacle or Zebco for Gander and other House Brands can be swapped out since parts always go missing once you open them. Last page bottom left will usually have the OEM which you can then call, not sure who makes what anymore..... I know the feeling you are going through. I started with my less expensive ones as well, parts are clean, just wish I knew where they go so they work again.

I just noticed that they are going for $100 online and I love the Tatula. I kind of want to give my business to my local shop but I also need to replace a rod so maybe I will just by the rod locally or see if he can order a Tatula for a similar price. I love the T-Wing and I also grabbed the T3 when TW had them for $100 but I have not been impressed with it since the handle seems cheap for a reel with so many features but I have a place for it....Have to have a dozen Casting reels in working condition and Daiwa and Shimano reels seem to last forever.... Still have a Green Curado from 25 years ago and a Daiwa that is from 1994 when I graduated HS that still works. Hard to argue with any Daiwa reel although I was not impressed with the new Aird which was only $50 and I went out to buy that reel until I held it and it was plastic? Thanks, I will see about the Tatula. I just like the colors of the accurist, I know it sounds crazy but it just looks nice compared to some of my bright Neon Green Serrano's.

I try not to pay more than $100-$125 for any casting reel personally since I put my reels through more abuse than they should go through and I am also not great at cleaning them on a consistent basis. With that said, I have found that when I buy high End reels or use one, I notice the difference right away. I spend more money on Spinning Reels since I use the Drag and Lighter line, also saltwater, so for me I was willing to save money & buy the reels I really wanted. I just started looking for a new casting reel after dropping my favorite Pitching rod and reel, and I can't rationalize spending more than $100 since every Brand is now offering solid Value's at lower prices in the past. With that said, the Patriarch is a fantastic reel from everything I have heard, and I have held one many times and wished i owned one. I have an Old Pflueger President Baitcasting Reel that is almost 15 years old and it may be heavy but it is still a work horse & my experiences with the Pflueger Spinning reels like the Extreme & President and even the $30 Trion have been positive, the customer service has not been the greatest however. I find Okuma offer's some of the best Prices and Specs, the best customer service I have dealt with over the years, but they seem to wear out after a few years compared to a reel like the Daiwa Tatula & Revo SX which I have had for about the same time. If you do some research on Google you can find charts that break down the different features, and usually any reel that is made by Daiwa, Shimano, Pflueger and sell for $100 will be nice reels that are easy to use. Lew's seems to be the most popular these days and you can get a really nice reel for $100-$120. I have never noticed that my casting distance suffers from one model to the next. I can cast my Silver Max, Pro Max as well as I can models that were $150 plus when I purchased them. I guess the key is finding a good VALUE. I hear the Academy reels are great for the money and many house brand reels are a great value since they are made by the same OEM's that make other top reels, Pinnacle has some nice reels out now and they used to be mainly an OEM, but I like to pick them up at the store and for me weight and drag are the most important, types of bearings, gears, and frame. If you plan on using it in brackish or salt water then it is important to get a reel that can do both. I have a couple Okuma Serrano casting reels which are fresh and salt, are discontinued, but they were $200+ several years ago and you can find a new one online for under $80 & you get a 3 year full replacement even if you fall and break the side plate. Okuma sent be a brand new reel even though I fell into a mound of Fire ants a few years ago and broke the reel as I panicked and cracked it. I find that the Pro Max and Silver Max are easy to find for $50 & they are not considered top quality but I can cast weightless worms on either, and they last even if I rarely open them up for service. Hope that helps...Kast King makes a new Carbon baitcasting reel for $50 sold by Eposeidon on Long Island and I was skeptical of the quality but I know people who have them, used one for a few weeks, and it is a fantastic reel and they also will fix any issue you have since they are trying to make inroads in the industry by going to shows and winning awards. It gets great ratings by many magazines etc. for what it is worth and it is light as a feather....They look perfect after a year and My friend puts hours on each reel, I have yet to hear a complaint about the reels they offer. Just make sure you buy from them direct, not on Ebay to save $10. The guys who started the company decided to offer high end features & sell them at lower margins since they are using the same OEM which makes brand name models that have similar specs for Top End Prices. They cover your warranty, I plan on getting one just to add to my collection after seeing them last for the year.. Hope that helps. I have been doing my research since TW has so many new models from all Brands and if you notice the pricing has come down on reels & companies are offering more models now that new companies are adding competition and challenging the norms at Icast Etc.

I need to pick up a New baitcasting reel for Pitching and Flipping as I just lost one of My Okuma reels and Rod (They sink quickly) A local shop has 3 reels that I am considering and I have not fished with any of them and I am trying to stay below $80-$100. My choices are the following and I will list them in the order I am leaning based on looking at them. 1- Quantum Accurist PT-New White/Black model which will run $60. 2- Abu Garcia Orra SX- $75 3- Okuma Komodo which is 3 years old but brand new in box. Price is $120-130 which is a bit higher than I wanted to go but it is a really nice reel. Most of my reels are Okuma and I have liked the Serrano & Citrix but I am starting to feel that the Okuma reels do not last as long as other models I have from Daiwa, Abu, and my old President which is a tank but is still going strong after a decade. Is the Quantum a good reel? I have read mixed reviews & I am not worried about any issues of the paint chipping as long as it Performs. I think I like it the best based on the look of it, & the Price. I guess my other options would be a Pflueger Trion or Purist for $50, but they are kind of heavy and for a reel in this range I would probaby just stick with a Silver Max or Pro Max. Any Suggestions or feedback would be appreciated if you have owned any of the above models. My buddy is telling me to buy a Lew's Laser MG speed spool which I think is roughly $75, but I know that is the entry level reel, but is the Lew's that much better? Thanks again in Advance. I have always liked Okuma for the fact they have awesome customer service, but I am not sure how much the Technology has changed since the Komodo has been in the case for at least 3-4 years.

I have been doing really well swimming a Rage Bug along the bottom really slowly, and pitching it with a 3/16 bullet weight. Black and Red has been working great. Thanks for all responses.

I still have boxes of soft baits that were manufactured in 2008 and I make sure they stay covered in plastic and not exposed to the sun. If you keep them cool, they last for years. I have bags of Mister Twister Exude Sluggo's in the 4" size that are over 20 years old both in and out of packs. I recently had a bag that I opened and they were stiff, I just sprayed some Reel Magic in the bag, put them on my dashboard for the drive, and they were perfect by the time I reached my location. Temperature matters, also if they are swimbaits, you have to keep the tails stored straight. That is why the clam shell packaging is worth the extra money if you buy extra stuff on sale. Swimbaits bend easily and it is hard to get them right again. Same with any worm etc...Just store them straight and in a cool spot and you can keep them a long time.

I alway's try one, but I usually try to follow the "Rules" out of habit. I have seen fish hit Buzzbaits on Cold Windy days when I would have never tried one, not even for a cast, but sometimes it is worth taking a few casts just to see what happens. If I hear fish (any Kind) breaking the surface than I figure they are active and will strike anything. I used to think that a Cold front was a big deal, and it can be, but it takes several days for the water to change, you really never know what will work. That is why you need a minimum of 10 rods ready to go at all times "Just in case". I consider minnow baits and Slow Floating Risers as topwater, and I use them all year and have had luck with them on many days when everyone else would be fishing a jig or small worm. I like to try a topwater if the Sun comes out in Mid afternoon around the 1:30 Magic time which I never understood.

How quickly do you swim the TRD? I have never tried using any jigworm fished quickly but it makes sense. I do the "Strolling" thing, but are you talking about swimming it like a crankbait? what weight do you prefer when you fish it quickly? I am still trying to figure out all the options with the Ned Rig. I seem to get most of my fish with a lift drop, but I like the idea of giving fish a new look. Thanks for all the responses. I always seem to forget that the reason big fish are such an accomplishment is because they are just hard to catch. I think I just need to change my mind set and stop "Targeting" only bigger fish. I think big fish will come if I do not force it as much? weather has been odd this year in the south. 3 days of colder weather, maybe 2 nights, then every day it is Hot by noon and it is November. I have a feeling the spawn will start a month earlier this year.

I am having the same struggles, but I usually notice in the fall the fish are always on the move based on changing conditions. The bite can be hot for 20 minutes and then just stop. I find when the sun goes down, the fish will then move out of the shade and into the open water, but then again, you just have to keep trying and hope you can figure out a pattern. It sounds like you are doing pretty good. I would try going in the afternoon, and if sunny, fish close to cover and sometimes changing angles of casts and targeting a stump with 5-6 casts is necessary. Fish roam in the fall to feed and get fat, If you can find the area that has bait, the fish will be there, but how to catch them is never as simple as I think while making my first cast. I find it hard to pattern fish in the fall, I really try to just find bait and fish transition areas and I move around alot, probably too much, but if you can find a feeding spot that replenishes, that may be the best bet and then just pick it apart. The fish seem to get keyed in on certain sizes this time of year. So I have no answer's that would be any better than someone else's, If the place gets pressure, try rigging up something different like the MJ rig (Senko with a small blade to pitch and swim), go with a small spinnerbait or Crankbait, and always try topwater, especially a minnow bait or fluke/Sluggo on top.....When the topwater bite is on, it usually stays on for a longer time, but I know exactly what you mean about the Sun changing, just keep in mind, just because the air temps drop, the water takes several days to change. Fish may also be suspended so always try the middle of the water column or a fluke on a darter head and try a few sizes, colors. Fall is the time of year I get really frustrated at times. I always have expectations of easy fishing, but it is often feast or famine. Keep fishing the same place and you will likely figure out some new patterns you can use other times of year if nothing else. Hamma made a great point. When light changes just like water color, it takes time for the eyes to adjust. Kind of like Night fishing, the first hour usually is not good, it takes the fish an hour or 2 to get adjusted, sun does the same thing, so in those conditions, I always figure the fish are holding really tight to cover if in the same place so you have to put the bait on top of them, often multiple times so a shaky rig can be good. They may move out to water that has the same degree of light penetration as you were catching them so maybe try fishing out a bit further or deeper than the shade lines you were fishing....Just a thought. You seem to understand the situation which makes it more frustrating at times. If Only Bass did what all the articles say they do we could all be Pro's.

Buying fishing lures and having them is fun. Part of the fun of Bass fishing is buying lures and the companies know this, have you ever noticed the size of the saltwater section or panfish section compared to the Bass Fishing Section? Is there another site like Bass Resource where we all talk about the same things over and over and enjoy it? Walleye anglers don't seem to do this, Bass Angler's are a different breed of fisherman. It is only an addiction if it is causing issues in your life, that is a real answer, I think I have an addiction to buying fishing tackle, but I like collecting things. Many people are suffering from serious addictions in life, so a fishing addiction is about the best thing one could have as long as it is not combined with a gambling problem for example You can always sell your lures, hard to sell your gambling debts, but it sure would be nice if you could.

I have been fishinig a bunch of ponds and small lakes which seem to all have large populations of tiny 1-2" fry roaming the shallows with bass of all sizes actively coming up to bust on them right on the surface. I have started to catch fish finally, but nothing in the size range I want. My guess is the fry are either newly hatched Shiners (All Ponds have shiners that average 8-12", and Tilapia which spawn all year long) They are ambushing the bait in the shallow structure and weeds, but to get the biggest fish which I am after, would you fish a bigger bait and just be patient? I figured out how to get the smaller fish up to 4lbs. My goal in these ponds was to land some bigger fish this fall over 7lbs. Bass this size and bigger are no doubt Feeding on these pods of bait, several have ambushed them right in front of my feet while Wading and they won't hit minnow baits of any size, color, small plastics, maybe I should just fish with bigger baits in the same way I am catching the smaller fish? Maybe it is a patience thing? I am 100% positive that if I caught a few shiners and live lined them I would be able to catch them but I don't want to cheat just yet. How would you target these fish since they are feeding, but just very picky. I wonder if I am being too loud in the water while trying not to be, I trip every so often? Usually in these ponds you can catch a few really nice fish pretty easy, but this fall they are really hard to catch, I thought Bass Fishing Was Easy? Maybe I should return my Mighty Bite Kit for a full refund? Even the free kit? Any suggestions appreciated if you have encountered this after a hatch. Thanks.

I finally had a great few hours and it turned out a Spinnerbait was the right tool for the Job, I just had to make multiple casts/pitches to get it to pass by cover at several angles, bump it and run, and they wanted a smaller profile, I used a gold bladed Strike King single Hammered "Mini King with a black/chart skirt. Good call, I started realizing that the fish were all tight to cover since I went early in the morning, and I then decided to take a Junebug Stick bait, bite it down to 4", make an MJ rig with a small Gold Colorodo blade? Jig Spinner blade and pitch it to cover with a 3/16 oz weight, fish it almost like a shaky rig, then reel it super slow...Caught some bigger fish up to 4lbs. Heading back tonight and I will get a picture of the green water, It is truly gatorade green not sure how else to describe it. I am working on getting a picture, I tried to match the water color the way you first mentioned as soon as I saw the color. I usually always try to match the water color/Bottom color etc. but I can't get a trap through the water since it is full of slime, not the kind of weeds you can really snap a trap from unless you have a really strong work ethic. I did try to throw a Floating Bill Lewis Trap since others suggested the trap and I never use them in the ponds thinking they are too much, but I still have not had success with floating traps. The hooks foul all the time and they are hard to run into stumps and bushes since they lack any balance. They won't touch the suspending traps either, but they were killing the MJ rig which is basically the same priniciple as a spinnerbait only a senko with a blade attached, I started doing better pitching it with a bullet weight pegged, 4" piece of a Junebug worm, and small blade on the back. Half the strikes came on the fall, rest came as I started reeling. The bigger Fish seem to be tight to cover since the water turned at all times, but I am hoping I can catch something much bigger than 4lbs, I may just try pitching some plastics to good cover and hit every inch. Talk about frustrating, I had 2 fish break the water right at my feet while Wading that were easy 5lb plus but I still have not managed to figure the biggest fish out. I know these ponds have double digit fish, Just not going to give in and use a Shiner but it's getting tempting. That MJ rig is really good when it works. Thanks again for the suggestions, The green water must be an algae bloom which has caused the bottom and even mid level water to have a slime in it, which makes fishing lures almost impossible and they won't hit topwater which I just don't understand if they are breaking the surface?

Netbait makes a bait called the Salt Lick which is really good, not sure if they still make it but I had purchased a few bags years ago and they worked really well, they have more salt than a senko, and also pork cooked in so really dense, soft, and work well. Mr. Twister Comida is another good worm, but I seem to do well on all stick baits, never really used one I hated, I use the big Bite, Yum, SK, GYB, any brand depending on color. I like Stick-O's if I can buy them in the store to make sure the consistency is good, the Strike King model sold in walmart for $3 has worked for me in that camo color swirl...SHimmy Stick? I think the line, Hook, and how you fish it matters more than the brand. Just my take. Also where you cast it, and how fast it falls or sits. It is not like companies can't copy the exact recipe of the Senko, the Technology is out there. Also Kinami is GYB's Son't line which I believe they stopped making but they are the same as a Senko only in different colors....They work great if you can find them for $2 on overstock still...

Many of the models that I see on TW seem to be the same Jigs that Brand sells in the swim Jig or Casting Jig section-Flat Eye Arkie is popular since it only needs 1 split ring, but I would agree that ordering the parts yourself and making your own is not only more cost effective, but you can also experiment with them to get the action you want. I like the Z-Man Original chatterbaits with the blade attached directly but the hooks are just not sharp. You can get them sharp but they do not hold up well from my experience. I actually think the Strike King Poison? is a good option since it is inexpensive, and comes in different sizes like 3/16 and has a thinner blade and a split ring inside the jig head which seems to give it a unique action, but I like to make my own and put them on either a ball head jig or swim jig bullet head with a flat eye. I like one split ring better than 2 for some reason. I also like to play around with blade sizes and also use mostly colored blades, black and gold 90% of the time. The Trailer you pick can give the bait completely different actions. A Fluke will make it move completely different than a Grub etc...I like the Project Z, I have not used it much but it looks and feels quality to me. I have issues with hook up ratios on swinging hooks when texas rigged, I like a swinging hook for leverage but I just rig the trailer open, Chatterbaits are good in weeds and many strikes come when ripping them out like a swim jig/Trap etc...I guess it depends on how you fish them. I use 1/16 Z-Man Minnow versions and then regular jigs in 1/8-1/2. I like a 1/4 oz with a heavy trailer since I can fish it really shallow, but 3/8 is what I use most of the time since I use the Rage Menace most of the time. I love that bait as a trailer, Swim Senko is my other choice, and then a Trick worm.

You can find inexpensive fishing tackle and equipment that is quality if you do your research online, read reviews etc. the Key is buying a good value.

I like to sell my stuff in groups of 4's that compliment each other and I usually sell new stuff out of the box at 60%-70% so it cover's shipping, but if you have a brand new out of box Spro BBZ for example, you can get $15 if it is in perfect shape. The key is making sure you are 100% accurate about condition, pics are hard to examine depending on the quality and shiny lures are tough to get good pics with. I try to list any scratch they may have even if really slight since some people who buy something that says " Perfect shape" for example, really expect it to be a lure without any blemishes at all, even though you may believe it is perfect, so just cover yourself and give the lures a close look over. I also have found that if you have inexpensive new lures that are easy to find like say a dozen Cordell Spots which are only $3 new, it is better to mix them in with other brands and colors to call it a "Set" that will cover all water colors, conditions etc... People are willing to pay money for a lot of lures if they are new to fishing to not only save money, but to feel confident they are buying good lures, good colors, which makes sense. I would advise checking ebay to see what lures are selling for both new and used, you may have some older lures that are worth more than you think, and vise versa, just to make sure you list them fairly for both parties. Good luck. I find seperating the lures by topwater, crankbaits, jigs, helps, then maybe make a few "Tournament lots" that have a few of each. Hope that helps. I always toss in a few freebies that I have as well even if just a pack of hooks, or treble hooks etc. I don't use, people love extra stuff even if inexpensive. Who doesn't?