kickerfish1

This is a great sale and I appreciate the "everything" part of it. May be tempted to stock up again. Thanks for putting this together Mike!

The Duo bait is what you want. I fish them on spinning gear but if you like BFS gear then it would work as well. You don't want anything heavier than about 6# line.

I am not though I have been tempted by them. $25 is pretty steep for a popper but then again most Depps baits are pricy. I am a big fan of the older Excalibur Zell Rowland pop-r baits so that is what I use for a smaller popper. Even the MB pop-x is a great bait and cheaper. Hard to imagine using the words MB and cheaper in the same sentence.

Remember you "need" this one.

Which poster or posters were claiming a lighter spool = more distance. I did not get that from any of the posts in this thread???

You sure you dont want another custom?

Looks good! Nice and stealthy.

That is ballsy DDG! I like how you roll! I once used 8# fluorocarbon fishing a fluke on a spinning rod in a pond with some pretty narly weed growth. It wasn't ideal but it sure was fun. Well I am not really sure as I have zero lakes around here with lily pads. I have fished pads before but it has been a good 7 or 8 years and those were some lakes up in MN. I was using a copoly as that was one of the better line choices back then before the braid and fluorocarbon craze took off. I am not sure if I would change my approach if I fished them. When I read the title of your post and then the body of your post, I figured I would probably answer the question differently. 12 # fluorocarbon is my preferred line for fishing the lakes I frequent the most. Now to answer your question about pads I would probably answer it 2 ways. Fishing the edge of pads and outer pockets I would still use 12# fluorocarbon. However, If I was casting into a massive pad bed I would probably use straight braid as I am betting I would approach it the same way I would frogging heavy vegetation. Hopefully that helps clear up my answer and I am sorry if I misread your question.

Let me also say that the overall size of the older Calais DC or Antares DC is quite large. Some complain that the reel is not so easy to palm plus the weight of the reel is pretty significant. That is where the 2016 Antares DC comes into play. It has a smaller frame and is much lighter but those two improvements come with a steeper price tag. You can find some good info on the various reels by Googling them and paying attention to the search results that are for the TackleTour review. They just recently reviewed the Metanium DC but you can find a review for about all DC reels produced. Like Goose52 mentioned if distance is your most important objective get yourself hooked up with some flavor of the Antares or Calais DC.

Straight flourocarbon every time. 12# tatsu or sniper are my favorites.

Lots has been written on here and other sites about various DC reels. They are not cheap so the cost of admission is quite high. $250 on the low side and $600 on the high side. The only disadvantage is the weight of the reel due to the Digital Control computer inside it. By all accounts the new 2016 Antares DC is likely the best DC reel to date. It is lighter than the previous models and is a brilliant caster but is pretty spendy for one reel. The Scorpion DC is an okay reel but more of a trouble free reel ideal for newbies or windy conditions. The Metanium DC seems to be the best at casting lighter weight baits but is not a really long distance caster. The Exsence DC features a drag that clicks as a fish pulls line plus it is very good caster distance wise and has a mode that allows for casting without thumbing and no backlash. It is fairly heavy at 8.5 ounces but it palms really well (Same a Core 100 or Chronarch D). The Conquest DC is also a great reel that seems to be popular for moving baits. I would pick the one that fits your needs or intended uses the best.

Good choice and if for some reason if it isn't what you thought it would be or doesn't perform up to your expectations you can always sell the Met and possibly go back and buy the Core, assuming it hasn't sold.

The right rod + the right line + a reel capable of long distance casting + an advanced casting skill from the user will get very respectable distances. I have a couple outfits that the distance achieved from is quite great and others that seem to be very average.

I don't know how anyone can answer your question on how the new GLX will compare to other rods. The rods have not been released yet so unless you have a field tester for Loomis on here that has gotten his hands on a prototype rod it would be hard to say for sure. Personally, I think I am going to try a full grip GLX 843 MBR. I have thought about getting the NRX version but I will likely hold out for a Rep Sample GLX when they come out.

Sure. The only issue with the 13 Met was that some reported it can be finicky to get the breaking system setup properly. The MGL is capable of casting lighter baits than the 13. For baits between 1/4 and 3/4 oz the MGL also outcasted the 13 Met in a side by side comparision which can be found on YouTube. The SVS breaking system is also slightly different than the 13 Met and doesn't seem to require as much maintenance. If you are on the fence you may just want to grab the Core 100MG7 as they are getting harder to find especially NIB. The 16 MGL will be around for at least a few years before they overhaul it.

I do not have either of those exact reels but I do have a Core 50mg7 and a 16 Met MGL. Both are great reels and I am not sure I could pick a favorite between the two. The real difference to me is mostly in the breaking profile and adjusting it. I really like the old hinged side plate of the Core series and other VBS reels over the Metanium's sideplate which just comes off. The breaking system on the Core is really easy to adjust and you have no worries about the side plate accidentally falling into the water. With the Metaniums it is a bit more less convenient (at least for me) to adjust it. The Metanium also features an adjustable outside break dial in addition the inner centrifugal brakes. The retrieve on the Metanium should also be a bit smoother with the X-ship and Micro Module gearing. You can find the Met MGL for about $325 shipped from Japan. From folks that have owned both the 16 Met MGL is a slightly better reel than the 13 version. So for about $25 more it may be something worth considering... The other piece to consider is that the Core has been discontinued for a few years now while that 13 Met was just recently discontinued. Over time, the older the reel the tougher it may be to find parts for. There seems to be a strong following for both the older Shimano VBS reels like the Core and on the opposite side the newer reels with SVS Infinity system like the Metanium. So all in all there is a good argument to be made for either. Do you have any experience with these breaking systems? If so maybe select the reel that utilizes the breaking system that you prefer the most.

Some pretty detailed finishes on those swimbaits! Were they custom painted?

Matt Allen has some great pointers on this vary topic on his Tactical Bassn' videos. He talks about how different variables have an impact on what he chooses. There are no right or wrong answer but for me I like more action and movement in a trailer when fish are the most active which usually occurs when water temps are the greatest. I also like to use them during transition times of the year such as spring to summer and summer to fall when fish are starting to put on the feedbag. When water temps are really cold early in the spring or late in the fall that is when I typically go for less movement and more subtle choices. Chunk craws or beaver style baits are great at doing this. As far as size of the trailer that for me is usually dependent on the size of the jig and the size of the fish being targeted. For smaller finesse jigs a smallier beaver or a baby rage craw will pair better while a the 4.20 beaver or standard size rage craw will go better on 3/8 or 1/2 oz jig. I usually match the trailer with the color of the jig and don't really contrast them all that much. For example if I am fishing gin clear water and using a natural color jig I do not want my jig trailer to be blue sapphire. Also consider jig skirt material and how it moves in the water in relation to fish activity level. Living rubber, silicone, hair, and fur, will all look different in the water and have different triggering qualities to help you get more bites.

You are exactly right despite what builders will tell you. You aren't getting much for under $200 unless the builder is doing you a favor or is a friend charging you very little for his time, On average expect to pay at least $75-100 in rod labor - This is pretty much going to be the money the builder will be making for doing your build. Shipping the finished rod to you - This will vary to some extent depending upon shipping company, distance, length of rod, and insurance but expect to pay at least $20-25. MSC parts and supplies for the builder - Epoxy, glue, and whatever other small parts or products needed - $10-20 Cost of materials to the builders - There are not many if any rod building product suppliers that will ship for free. Some will offer free shipping over a certain $ amount but will hit you with a $10 charge for an oversized shipment for the blank. Just for the above items above you can easily be starting at $120 and you haven't even picked out a blank, guides, or any components. If you picked out a $50 blank, a $20 set of guides, and handle grips, thread wrap material, and a reel seat, plus any needed small parts like a but cap or winding check and you can be at $200 right there. So IMO, you would need at least $200 to have builder do a custom rod for you without giving you a huge break on labor. If you want something that will be pretty nice and start to separate itself in terms of performance you really need to be around $250-300.

If I was picking I would get the 16 Ci4+ as I just don't care for the "mag seal" on the Daiwas.

Best braking system on the market? That would be your opinion/preference.

That is the elusive green garden hose snake. It only comes to life if you turn the water pressure on full blast while left unattended.

I was 8 years old when I caught my PB. It was 22 inches long and pre spawn on Dead Lake in MN. Didn't have a scale to weigh it. It was caught on a Berkley Power Lizard on jakerhead. The reel was a old Shimano Solstace and the rod was 7 foot medium Cabelas House brand rod with probably IM-2 graphite. The combo was about $40 tops and it was my first spinning rod ever that I was given as birthday gift. The picture is on a Polaroid if I can find it in a scrap book somewhere.

Must be switching to Daiwa

When restaurants step outside the realm of what made them famous that usually ends up being a mistake. I haven't had BK in years and I think their burrito idea just isn't right.