noxpertjim

I'm also discouraged to hear the speed isn't, at a minimum, as good as the Machete. I have the Hydrilla Hacker blade as well, and noticed a significant speed delta between it and the Machete that it came with. So here I was getting all jacked up about a new prop that I could leave on and have all the performance I want. During a tournament, I want to pop from grass bed to grass bed fast, at least faster than the other guy. This does not sound like my salvation. Will I buy it? Probably. Only because, like most things, my mileage may vary. Thanks for posting your trials, though, gents. It is helpful and will give me a comparative basis to go by.

I use one for my Motorguide Tour 24V 82 lb unit. Works exceptionally well. I love it. Mine does not interfere with the rod straps; your boat may be different. The base does screw into the deck. On the motor side, it is a hose clamp with a rubber sleeve that holds the base on it. As for which one you want, I can't answer that. You'll have to measure the height from the shaft below the head (where you'll mount the motor side base) to the deck. Mine was 7 inches, so I use the 7.25 inch model. Any more than that, and I would go with the 11 incher.

I've seen several episodes of Classic Patters and noticed Edwin Evers and Tim Horton have some form of protector on the trolling motor shaft. It appears to be some rigid snap-on style protector that the transducer cable runs through, which I think is an excellent idea. Problem is, I can't figure out who makes it or where to get one. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Simply use your "Back" button. It will take you right back and NOT delete what you just put in the cart. Happy shopping!

I've looked at these before and can't find them anywhere around here. Where are you guys getting them at? And thanks for the photo of the 5" Tiki-Gorilla! Charger169 I am calling Wave next week to get in on that action!

Absolutely delicious. I know I'll be getting some. Thanks for the updated info, all!

Thanks, Raul. I thought it looked like a GYCB, but I couldn't find it anywhere. That explains why... Too bad we don't have that. Yet.

Can anyone ID this bait and who makes it? It is in an email from Bassin' Magazine, and I just can't place it. Looks neat enough, and bait monkey says "get some"...

Can someone please explain the "Action" ratings given to Daiwa reels? For example, the TD-Fuego baitcaster has an action rating of "L/ML". What exactly does this rating refer to?

For the Husky Jerk video: http://www.rapala.com/products/luresdetail.cfm?modelName=husky_jerk&freshorsalt=Fresh

I know a certain person who's going to Lowe's tonight....! Seriously, you're right. It is worth a shot one last time. I talked to Daiwa yesterday; they want the rod sent in to determine what can be done. What is there to lose when it is already broken? Nothing. I can still send it in. Speaking of which, does anyone have experience with sending rods back to Daiwa for repair? Curious to hear about any experience, good, bad or expensive. I'm trying to come to grips with the fact that the rod was $120 new 3 or 4 years ago and it may cost that much or more to fix it. Seems dumb, but when you've found that one rod that speaks to you.... I'll watch the threads. I think if I wrapped them with aluminum foil underneath the foregrip and up the shaft I could safely apply the compound. I can tighten it down to get the crack to open up some without fear of a full split and apply the goop, then back it off to allow it to pull together. If it works, I'll have a green-handle TD-S rod for sale stat. Count on that. Thanks to you both for the insight and advice. I really appreciate it.

David, I have a rod that requires repair, but I see on your site you require walk-in service for rods. I was wondering what you would suggest for an adequate repair in this situation, if any. The reel seat lock (?) has cracked and been repaired with glue and some slight melting, only to crack again. The photo shows the area involved (I can get a better photo later if needed). Is this something that can be repaired properly or replaced, or does this look like a dead rod? If it can be repaired or replaced, what should I expect to pay for either option? For reference, the rod is a Team Daiwa S-B 6'3" topwater model. Your professional opinion is appreciated. Thanks for the great service earlier this year on my Chronarch SF, too!

Keith, I did just that earlier last evening (but had sent a photo 3 days prior with no response until last night). I found out that they don't actually carry the rod in stock, which leads me to believe that it is the new TD-S series rod. Kind of a downer for me... Now the hunt begins for a replacement. I am going to call Daiwa today and see if they can repair it for a charge that isn't astronomical. I am not hopeful...

Thanks! I wondered if there just weren't any cut-sheets made for them, which seems to be the case. I've seen two identically spec'd rods in terms of length, lure rating and power, but one was VCT and the other VCA. Since you've indicated the taper, I see now that the T and A (no pun intended) are referrring to it, albeit in a manner I don't quite yet comprehend. I have a spinning V-rod that I use for crappie, and I swear I could feel them swim by... The casting rods haven't been easy to find around here, so I've lucked out with your offering. Someday I'll have to find a Kistler dealer and hold one of their rods. I've heard nothing but good things. Thanks for the help on the specs!

Does anyone have a cut-sheet or catalog from Shimano with the V-Rod specs in it? I'm curious to find more info on them, seeing as how I keep buying them. I've seen rods of the same length and weight/action/power ratings with different model numbers, and it slightly confuses me. There's hardly any info on the net (that I've found) regarding them, either. That really confuses me with the amount of "useless" info that is out there...