pcasciola

Thanks for all the suggestions! I finally got around to playing around a bit, and running 14 gauge directly to the battery with an 5A inline fuse did the trick. My batteries were a little down but it read 12.2V with just the rear Humminbird on, and 12.2V even with all the pumps and other fishfinders turned on. I am going to leave it this way for my trip this weekend, and I think I will rewire it with 8 gauge and a new fuse panel when I get back. Thank again everyone.

I recently installed an 1198c at the console and a 998c up front, along with a small Lowrance unit up front using the trolling motor transducer, and dual Cabela's Advanced Angler AGMs in parallel using a Perko A/B/All switch. I ran all new wiring with new fuses from the existing fuse panel to provide power to the Humminbirds. My problem is, on the 1198c I see a voltage drop of about 1v for each sonar unit, and about 1.5v for each pump (livewell and bilge pump). This quickly gets me down to the 8.5v lower limit when everything is on, which causes the 1198c to shut down, sometimes within minutes of leaving the dock with freshly charged batteries. With everything off except the 1198c, I see about 13.0 - 13.5V on the display, but as I turn each other device on I see about 1.0 - 1.5V less on the 1198c. I think what might be going on is that the factory wires from the battery to the fuse panel are too small. They appear to be 14-16 gauge, and I'm wondering if this could cause be causing the voltage drop I am seeing, even though we are only talking about maybe 10 feet from the battery to the panel, 2-3 feet to the 1198 and about 10 feet to the 998 and Lowrance. If so, I'm just wondering what the best approach is. Should I run new 6-8 gauge from the battery to the fuse panel? Run the Humminbird wires directly to the battery with in-line fuses? Install a second fuse panel just for the electronics? I know just enough about electrical to be dangerous, but DC voltage drop is not something I have no experience with so I was just hoping to see how others might have solved this problem, assuming the wire gauge is causing the voltage drop and not a frayed wire or short somewhere.

Thanks for the info. I was afraid of that. Nothing like having your trolling motor break 2 days before a big trip. I guess this is why the pros have backup trolling motors right on the boat.

My old batteries weren't lasting a full day on the lake, so I just bought a pair of new Basspro XPS Deep Cycle 175s for my 24V MotorGuide. They took about 24 hours to charge with my little on board 5/5/5 amp Basspro XPS charger, and when they were done charging, the trolling motor wouldn't turn at all. After trying a few things I put the old Interstates back in, and now those won't turn it either. I took some readings with a multimeter, and I get 28.2V and 2.9A at the trolling motor plug, but when I press the switch on the trolling motor, it drop to 6.3V and 0.3A. Is this an indication that the batteries are not charged, or that the trolling motor is shot?