skeletor6

I fish hollow bodied frogs in a lot of lillipads around here. It can be tough if you catch one way back in them. The cover gets pretty thick and a MH might be underpowered for the job. I use rods that are heavy rated for such a job. However, if you need it to do more than just that work 7ft MH/F is considered an all-purpose rod around here. In regards to using a 6'6'' medium powered rod for frogs in lillipads I would say no. Its definitely underpowered for the task. I prefer a 7'6'' Heavy/MF rod for the job. A good start would be to get the 7' MH/F rod that people mentioned. That can be your all-purpose, then build your base around that. Start buying rods that help you fish the techniques you use most often.

What everyone said, modified albright aka alberto

Have rod #2 its a great rod, just a little tip heavy with a 50e. Although its very light so hardly noticeable during usage. For around $250 I think the orochi XX EMTF sounds like it would be perfect for what you do. The JDM version of the 50e balances it very well from what ive heard and is a very versatile rod. The extra length helps with casting distance and the versatility will be helpful from the bank. I would say NRX 893c but its outta budget

Working on adding something better for my heavier jigs. Right now I have 4 rigs for the job 1 ) NRX 893C / Curado 50e Supertuned, Abec 9's, / Tatsu 12lb.....for anything 3/16-1/2oz 2.) Same combo as above but with 12lb Shooter 3.) Shimano Cumulus 7'1" MHXF / Curado 200e7 Supertuned, Abec 9 / Tatsu 12lb....3/8 -3/4oz but feel on the heavier end its pushing it. 4.) NRX 803C / Shimano Chronarch 50MG Supertuned, Abec 9 / Tatsu 10lb / swim jigs and some dock situations. In 1/4oz - 1/2oz mostly 3/8oz Could use something for the heavier jigs but I haven't found them too effective for how I fish. Considering adding a spinning rod like a BSR852 GLX or a NRX 852s as well. Haven't figured that one out yet.

I do not own said rod of OP. However, let it be known that I have easily felt fish swim by on my most sensitive setups. I could even tell the size of said fish to a degree.

The revenge swim jigs I referred to are not meant for flipping. They are something that I would not flip with as it would just lay flat on the bottom. NS flip n swims are great, have a bunch of them. Siebert now has a model very similar in style and performance. The shellcracker is interesting, I agree its not something that swims through heavy cover as well, but its bulkiness is what I believe its benefit, or purpose is for that matter. If a bulky presentation is what you are trying to go for, it sure fits the bill. Grubs are a staple, always a solid choice and something everyone should have at their disposal. I don't mind using them on a spinnerbait either.

You got me curious, I'm bout to test out them Paca's. Seriously though, the coffee scented plastics do leave a much better "aroma" then any of my plastics.

Revenge Swim Jig......as much as I LOVE, Siebert and Northstar jigs (they are all I own), the Bluegill Revenge Swim Jig is sweet. The head style on that comes through cover fantastic. its actually much like Northstar's Spinnerbaits (which I love). On to trailers...they've already been mentioned.......Rage Menace (honey candy fished vertical), Berkley subwoofer, RI Skinny Dipper, Keitech Swing Impact Fat (pro staff special), yeah, even that shellcracker is nice to mix it up. If I could only choose one. It would be the Swing impacts

I also like the bluegill color. Match it with honey candy menace vertical, keitech swing impact FAT (pro staff special), RI skinny dippers, even a berkley subwoofer. Very good for fishing submerged weeds......the trailers are not my original ideas....credit to kickerfish

Write it down, covered a few of my faves. If these are causing too much havoc at the surface (yes there is such a thing), then throw something really small profiled, because as mentioned they are eating insects. Bugs are subtle and small.

If this question were changed to which are the best pair polarized glasses that will get me the best piece of.... Then yeah, I would be down to spend $200 on something I break and lose on a regular basis. The SK11's seem to be a great option not overly priced. The $5 wally worlds cost me and a buddy 2 fine ladies on a pontoon. I do not recommend those...nope, not worth it

^^^^^ What he said....anyways...try rods n reels section for more responses.

I always find the fish like their Coffee first thing in the morning. Whether its a gimmick or not, I do not know, but I do enjoy Strike King's Plastics......Hell I seen KVD eat one, he only eats the finest.

I hope not....these things are the best entry level reel on the market. I feel comfortable saying that. I got mine for $25 a piece. If it weren't for buying $200-ish reels, I still would use mine.

Q1: Which FC is the Best Leader?......Answer = Tatsu Q2: Which FC is the best to fill a spool with in regards to memory and sensitivity?....Answer Tatsu (I also like shooter, but longevity is holding up better with tatsu) Cheaper option for Q1 & Q2 = Sunline FC Sniper, Seaguar invizX. Concerning memory and handling, invizX takes the ball for its price point. As mentioned, leader's are not as demanding as filling a whole spool with the stuff. Still, do not use vanish.....just don't. Red Label, Abrazx, they'll get the job done fine as a leader.

I don't go heavier than 12lb. Line diameter plays a role in how deep the crank will go. Many use 15# for squarebill's and can go as low as 8 for deep divers. I have not found a need to go heavier than 12lb fluorocarbon. I believe that 12# is the best all-around size. I will reiterate, do not buy cheap fluorocarbon or you'll end up hating the stuff. I hate cheap FC. If I was forced to use that, i would be a braid guy. Just sayin.

Granted I am not fishing in the same location as you, but 10# seems like an overkill to me on a line known for it its strong breaking strength. Although, I have tried and I am not a huge fan of YZH, I believe dropping down to what others recommend in 6# would be helpful. My biggest problem with YZH was memory and coiling, which would attribute to the problems you are having. With most lines, these issue decrease with line diameter. I use 6 and 8lb FC on my spinning outfits on 2500 size shimanos. 10 would be the very highest I would go, still haven't encountered conditions that have called for it though. Given, you pursue the option of using another line. Seaguar invizX will surprise you with increased sensitivity, especially in slack line conditions. Given you are not fishing top-water presentations. I gave up YZH for Seaguar and Sunline Mid-grade to premium fluoros. I won't go back, but 600 yards for $12 did not leave a bad taste in my mouth.

I feel like that Fenwick elite tech mh-mf would be able to do a lot of the techniques mentioned by other members. In that $100 price range too.

I agree. Spinnings the way to go here

Way to keep the name brand out of the discussion. lol Anyways, anyone who is telling you to buy different rods is just wrong. You do not have to buy cheap rods just because you break your rods. Higher end rods have great warranties and will take care of breaks. Furthermore, braid does not give you a lot of room for error. If you are three feet from the fish and set the hook really hard that could cause a lot of stress on the tip section and snap it. Boat flipping is just something you shouldn't do. I do not know if you do it or not, but definitely start lipping them or get a net. The pros do it because they can afford to. Also, try loosening your drag a bit. Since you are using braid it would help to back off the drag a bit so there is some give in your system. Using an XF rod with braid and a tight drag there is not very much give in the system. A lot of force should not be required in your hooksets either as mentioned earlier. Sounds like you take good care of your rods. Pay attention to not put them on the hook keeper on an overly tight line where the rod tip bends. Just try to be a little easier when your out setting the hook and fishing with the drag a little looser. If your hook up ratio stays the same then I would stick with it. You don't need those home run hooksets like someone who casted out 40 yards of mono. Good luck

Its a line that requires care. Yes if there are knicks or kinks in the line it can weaken the line most definitely. That's why FC users retie after a few fish and check their line periodically. Really its way overplayed. Ive gone out and fished 5+ rigged with tatsu and did not retie or have break offs all day. I went like this for 5 fishing trips. If I was fishing a tournament I may be more careful. Most frequent break offs are from cheap line or guides that are not smooth. Braid does outperform in grassy areas and is very strong per its diameter. I just would not use it for the sharp conditions you are describing.

I feel this question should just be stickied. It gets asked every week and the same responses are repeated. If you noticed RW literally copies and pastes his responses. I do not blame him, it saves re-answering the same question(s). A simple search would help a lot of members on this forum get the answers they are seeking. The same thing could be said for best $100 rod/reel, best $200 rod/reel. Best Fluoro, best braid, etc. To the OP...about 90% of people on this forum prefer braid as their mainline. Often they say use FC or Copoly as a leader connected with an alberto or modified albright knot (same thing). The other 10% usually consist of straight FC or Copoly. Those who say FC will agree that you should not buy cheap. The top ones recommended are P-Line, BPS XPS, Seaguar InvizX, Sunline FC Sniper, Sunline Shooter, and Seaguar Tatsu.

The new ci4 2500 size would probably be best. Shimanos x-ship and propulsion line management system are top notch and patented. The 2500 size is the perfect all around bass fishing size too.

Without getting that bad boy serviced by...pm me.....and putting it on a DX702c then you will never know what true love is. A match made for gods.

Sad part is the guy more than likely didn't even make commission. He just didn't know his stuff. Take it back and get a refund. They should make it right for you.