Raul

For me they are bass magnets and well worth the price.

Got a Magnesium TS Crankbait, I like how the blank behaves but the rod is not perfect, there are issues in the reel seat, tried with all my Shimano, Daiwa & Garcia reels and the problem is there, the reel foot doesn 't sit perfectly tight and there 's some looseness in the fit, so it 's not the reel, it 's the reel seat. The handle diameter is wide and beefy, pretty much like a hump grip, it 's an issue for me because I have small hands and those extra mm in the diameter makes the handle not fit my hand like a glove. Should have purchased a GLoomis instead. :-/

Burley, think seriously about getting a swimbait rod, not only they have the power but also they have the handle, it 's the combination of power and long handle ( so you can cast with both arms ) what allows you to gain distance and not getting worn out after half an hour of throwing those big suckers, besides, since they handle weights between 1 - 5, 6 ounces you don 't have to limit yourself to sub 2 ounce baits.

They cost pretty much like any other Megabass lure, $20-24. Now if you are talking about those rare limited edition colors those can cost an arm and a leg.

You balance the rod to perform a better task for a specific application changing the center of gravity by adding weight, butt heavy, tip heavy, neutral; it 's the application of a simple principle, the principle of the lever where the reel seat acts like a pivot point.

I know what you mean, been there, done that ...... there you are castin n 'swimmin the bait, you feel the thump, allow the fish to mouth the bait, set the hook and suddenly you are reeling in HALF the bait >, happened to me 3 times ( and it 's going to happen again : ); don 't know what bugs me more, not knowing what hit the bait, not catching anything or spending 60 dollars in 3 now useless baits, dang I don 't mind them ripping the bait but only if they left the tail attached to it I would be more pleased ... at least you still have something to glue again.

The only problem I see with trying to purchase the old Curados is that since they have such great reputation NIBs are selling pretty much for what they used to cost retail and you have the new Citica with new technology, better finish and features only found in the top of the line Curado family ( Curado SF ) at the same price. Too bad for you if you lost the monster sales the retailers had on old Curados last year, 65 bux for a NIB was a steal ( got a few ones at that price ) .

Hey Cappy, got any special kind of emotional attatchment to that tail-less swimbait or is it some sort of secret weapon ? Just wonderin '. ;D

Your BM should do a better job convincing you into purchasing a real swimbait, suddenly now out of nowhere every single shad body is named "swimbait". :-?

Do not match the hatch, if the lake is flooded with newts all the same size, all the same color change the size of your bait ( I prefer larger ) and with a different hue to make it stand out from the rest.

Trickworms ...... trick and treat, Happy Halloween !

I say weight is "issue" in the 200 & 300 size models, at almost 10 ounces they feel like a brick, the 100 size weights less than 7.5 ounces, weight issue in the 100 size is no weight issue. My only beef with the new ones is that increased weight, old Curados weighted 8.6 ounces, now at almost 10 ...... :-?, mathematically speaking 1, 2 or 3 only represent an abstract concept in your mind, that number translated into the real world experience is a completely diffrent experience, brick vs feather.

That 's easy, go to the Home section and there 's an article by Fish Chris on how to rig a hookless swimbait based on the Huddleston Deluxe ROF 0 but the principle applies to almost any hookless swimbait.

The only thing the old Cuardo and the new one have in common is the name, completely different animal; much better reel the new one, equal and sometimes better in many aspects even to the old Chronarch SF except in one department: the weight, issue that does not exist with the CU100D.

This ones ?:

You can 't ask apples from an oak tree Burley, you don 't get distance because your rod lacks of power.

Thanks I did, and I was in the process of changing the ball bearings to TG Rockets when I lost the clip retainer :-[ Well, lesson learned, itsy bitsy teeny tiny reel parts DO HAVE a mind of their own. Like them lil springs that jump out of the reel at warp speed when you remove the sideplate. :-/

Fluoro IS mono.

Please define "normal".

When you oil and grease the reel take extra precautions with the drag system, the slightest contamination of the washers with lubricants cause the drag to pulsate, on the other hand, since you are going to disassemble the reel consider upgrading the drag washers for Carbontex washers.

In my neck of the woods "spicy" means you are going to get your mouth on fire and you will be rushed to the nearest ER .... but that 's not the end of it, wait until you go to where the king goes by own.

Check your reel 's schematics and order the part directly to Daiwa, normally in small parts they don 't even charge you.

Something like this ?

Here. Just a point that needs clarification, in that tutorial the writer greases the worm gear, I do not agree with such procedure and I believe RM is in the same frequency, the worm gear is exposed to the elements, greasing it will cause the worm gear to trap dirt and debris turning that grease into a very powerful abrassive paste that will cause excessive wear of the worm gear and levelwind pinon reducing the life of both elements. Oil is what I 've used in all my reels for over 2 decades and none shows signs of wear in those parts.

During the spring and summer they are sortof "green pumpkin", during the winter they turn black back & red belly.