Raul

I don 't have a favorite method, the three ways I fish them the most are: in D-shot, on a 1/8 - 1/16 oz jighead or longitudinally wacky rigged with a nail weight inserted in the head. Did you get them in EP 's Secret ?

You can add almost any kind of soft plastic bait to your jig as a trailer, one my favorite combos is a 1/2-1 oz jig with a brush hog for trailer. I remember the first time my compadre and my friend Moises saw me with that combo: M.- " U s*ting me ? do you think they 'll bite " :-? C.- " Hey compadre .... ain 't that a lil bit large ? " R.- Moi .... think big, they 'll come : , compadre, that 's the idea , big bait, big bass 3 casts later I landed an 8 pounder.

There 's your crankbait rod, slow action and flimsy.

Use a pegged bullet sinker.

Skirted double tail grubs are one of those things that were hot back in the early 90 's with the introduction of the Spider Jig and has slowly faded away in the turmoil of new soft plastic baits, just like the Slug-o and the Fat Gitzit were hot in the 80 's, Stringjam knows what I 'm talking about . Old fart ( just like me ) very productive baits ( difficult break old habits ) .... no wonder why I seldomly fish with a senko. :

Exactly, if you can get away with a good copoly in the lower tests with high breaking point go for it.

Not exactly the most abrssion resistance line around but it handles extremely well and has very little memory, for finesse it 's great as long as you keep it away from sharp rocks and woody cover.

Natural, it was a Schyncro no wonder why you say that about the antireverse. Got two XLT series: XLT plus and 521 XLT plus still in use and a conmemorative limited edition 521 XLT Plus NIB. Also got a Bantam BMag 1000 that I no longer use.

Dude I read your thread thoroughly, now if you feel like an idiot that 's your problem, I never said you were.

Look at it from the bright side ..... at least she didn 't recommend a second or third opinion.

Imagine for a moment that you are completely blind or short sighted, in my case that 's no such big deal, I don 't need to imagine, I 'm so short sighted that I 'm legally blind, can 't see squat 10 ft away. If you can 't see squat then your eyes are not good OK, muddy water has the same effect, fish in muddy water can 't see squat so in order to get their everyday meal you have to depend upon your other senses to find food. These senses are: 1.- Hearing ( blind people have developed excellent hearing capabilities ) 2.- Smell ( blind people have developed excellent of smell ) 3.- Lateral line system, people don 't have lateral system but if you do some research on the lateral line system of fish you will know why fish can locate predators and prey with the lateral line. 4.- Sight .... man I can 't see squat but like hell I can see flash So now you know which senses to attack in order to let the fish know your bait is there. Can 't see but can hear ---> add sound to your baits, like rattles and/or beads Can 't see but can smell ---> I 'm not a big fan of scents but scents added to your baits are a little extra Can 't see but have lateral line system ---> VIBRATION is a key element when fishing poor visibilty water, the lateral line detects vibration and distorsion, not only it detects it but detects distance, speed and direction, add vibration to your lures and distort the water Can 't see but can detect flash ---> add flash to your baits What you need is in your T-box all you need is to select properly. I would not fish a T-rigged senko, but I can fish a wacky rigged senko simply because a wacky rigged senko has a whole lotta more vibration than a T-rigged senko; same bait different rigging has a completely different approach. What 's wrong with you ? Nick use what God and 4 million years of evolution have given you, an animal with a pea sized brain simply can 't be more intelligent than you.

Series includes 4 Rods: One 7' Medium Heavy Moderate Jeffrey Thomas Signature Series Rod for large crankbaits, One 6'9" Heavy moderate Rod for big rattle traps and spinner baits, One 6'6" medium Heavy Moderate Rod for medium size crankbaits, and One 6'6" Medium Moderate Rod for small crankbaits, jerkbaits, and top water lures. All rods come wrapped in dark blue and metallic black trim. 700/4 = $175 per rod, about the same price of a GL3.

Remove the handle and cap, spinning reels always have 1 or 2 bearings where you insert the handle ( one on each side ), actually the square perforation where you insert the handle is the inner side of the bearing, drop a drop of oil BETWEEN the side cover hole and the square. Insert the hadle and cap & tighten. Add a drop of oil in the reel handle knob. Remove the spool, turn the handle until you extend the spool shaft fully, when that happens add a drop of oil between the spool shaft and the rotor, that will bring the oil inside to the bearing supporting the spool shaft, rotate until it extends again and add another drop of oil. Loosen the screw that attatches the bail to the rotor ( no need to remove the screw ) add a drop of oil in the gap better the roller bearing and the bail. Tighten the screw. With that you lubricate the most bearings the reel has without having to disassemble, every when ? that depends greatly on how much you fish with your reel, the more you fish with it the more frequent you need to lube.

Rod & reel combo for less than $125: Daiwa Procaster 6+1 ( PR100H/HL ) & BPS 6 '6" MH Bionic Blade combo. Make those ML rods into great finesse & crankbait rods.

Stanley Jigs used to manufacture a Finesse Jig in the sizes you mention, razor sharp hook, light weedguard, long razor sharp light wire hook and it even came with a soft plastic craw aleardy attached to the jig. Purchased a bunch at Academy 'bout 4-5 years ago, don 't know if they continue to make them.

BA, if I didn 't had good experiences doing what everybody says it shouldn 't be done according to the "rule" book of bass fishing I wouldn 't post it, I 'm not pulling your leg. Here 's the deal, back then during the age of the dinosaurs when I had to dodge velociraptors in order to get to the lake and catch some celecanths the information on how, where and with what to fish was limited, me living in a third world country made the flow of information even more limited, my dad was not the outdoorsy kind of guy, my granpa was a farmer and he had no time to spend in fishing , there little or no fishing magazines, books or movies, there was no internet, no nuthin so nobody taught me how to fish, the way I learned was to watch and experiment with the few baits I had and fish, sometimes I got skunked, other times I caught fish and when I caught fish I learned a lesson, when I was faced with pretty much the same conditions I remember that X or Y baits were more productive than others. So you see, the most important lesson I learned was: in fishing there 's no such thing as "rules". Clear waters ---> "natural" colors Murky waters ----> " dark " colors Sez who ?

A topwater ....... just because I like to fish baits that in everybody 's "rule" book says topwaters are not for sunny days. Never done it ? you should try

In clear water.

At the lower end of the lake, that is basically what I am looking at. The shoreline itself is not steep banked but ten feet into the lake is a rock ledge that drops quickly to 15 or more FOW. Thats where I'd be then, right along that ledge, probably with some little wimpy shaky worm or finesse jig in watermelon or green pumpkin, just bumping them along, up and down the ledge. But if I couldnt get bit with that, I'd probably bust out my deep crank rod and a LC CBD20 and start banging it around that ledge trying for that reaction strike. 5BL beat me to it, I 'd be all over that ledge and first I would try a topwater attempting to rise a few feesh before attacking the ledge itself, why the topwater ? because I 'm trying to milk the most agressive fish first in a spot that 's not close to the shoreline, then a spinnerbait and/or crankbait at about 7-8 ft above the ledge, the same reason, milk out the agressive fish first and then down to the bottom. That ledge sounds like a cluster of rocks I know in my home lake, it 's located on a flat about 100 ft from the bank, when the lake is full the cluster is in 10 ft of water on the highest part of the cluster, about 10 ft from the cluster passes a tributary of the main river and the water drops from 12 ft to 30 ft fast, you have no idea how productive that cluster is, day in day out that particular spot always has some fish orbiting around it.

I was wondering if you spray anything on the senko's when fishing? No.

You don 't have to apoligize Glenn, it 's thanks to you for having us here.

That my friend depends greatly on the guy behind the rod, my compadre can 't make a fish move two feet away to intercept a lure, my nephew ( my compadre 's son ) can make the fish come 30-40 ft with the same lure my compadre couldn 't catch a cold with, same applies to depth and to distance. Some of the lakes I fish are steep banked to the point of being in half of the shoreline vertical walls gin clear water and I can make them rise from the depths with topwaters.

Kinking and coiling are not the same, hearing of a too much coiling issue with copolymer is not new, on the contrary, too much coiling with copoly is the rule if you spool in "heavy" copoly like 10 lb test. Line conditioner is going to help .... a little, the problem solves when you reduce the test with copoly, Yo Zuri Hybrid breaks a an incredibly high tensile point, Roadwarior is the resident Yo Zuri Hybrid guru and knows more about that line than anybody else here ( maybe he can lighten us on the breaking strength of that line ) but 10 lbs for Yo Zuri Hybrid looks like an overkill to me. I 've fished with copoly ( P-Line CXX 12 lbs ) and the coiling is worse than with 20 lb test nylon.

Hey Burley, what I 'm I supposed to look for ? :-/ Snag-free lure :-? ........ gee, they don 't know me very well :.

It 's part of the fun , they think they are big mommas and bite the bait with vengeance.