Raul

You activate the clicker ( on ) when you troll or fish with bait as an alarm, as line pulls from the clicker it clicks, when you grab your rod and begin to reel in the line you deactivate the clicker ( off ), it 's important to deactivate the clicker, if you reel in with the clicker activated the clicker will suffer damage. It 's feature found in most saltwater reels, in this case since the reel is big enough for some light saltwater and big freshwater fishing ( salmon, striper, catfish ) it comes with the feature.

My man, I hope you don 't feel bad about me telling you this ..... what you call anti reverse is far from being so, it 's called a CLICKER and it 's job is to click to warn you when line is coming out of your reel like when having a bite or when you hang up when you are trolling.

I 've got twice as many reels as I have rods and nope, I don 't have any kind of bad feelings about it.

You mean in a spinning reel ?

What 's the difference between these ones: and these ones ?: Well, aside from the difference in the colors of the package the real difference between both is the PRICE. While the second ones are the ones you find at your local store or through GYCBs site for 6.50 or less ( Academy had them about a dollar cheaper ), the first ones cost $14.00 !!!! in Japan.

Depends on what you are looking for, opposed to the Stradic where the difference between two reels is the size in the Biomaster Mg you have to choose not only the size but the depth of the spool, regular or shallow; the gearing, between a PG ( Power Gear ) or a HG ( High Gear ); and between a single handle or a double handle, confusing isn 't it ? :-/ I purchased a Biomaster 2500S in November last year but I haven 't fished with it yet, one thing is for shure, the MgFa has a much better handle than the Japanese, the Biomaster has a push button to fold the handle ( which may be a weak link ) and "I" knob while the Stradic has a cold forged machine cut handle and "T" power knob. Also remember that Japanese reels are not covered by any warranty in the US, you are on your own Biomaster Mg Stradic MgFa

3,000 bass in 77 days makes 38.916 bass per day ....... it 's pretty obviuos this dude has never ever heard about the famous Lake Guerrero 's 100+ fish per day back in the mid 80 's. :

Down here in my neck of the woods "summer" begins around late February and ends about mid November, cuz the rainy season begins in May most lakes turn into mudholes or pea soup or a combination of both from late May all the way down to mid October. Where do I find the fish ? early in the morning cruising along the shallows, by mid day they retreat to dropoffs and deeper structure and/or cover just to move back to the shallows by the afternoon. Lots of rattles, lots of vibration, fat bodied baits that displace water fished in or right next to cover are always the ticket.

Why so few ?

Have to admit that Catt is much better with examples than me.

Asking about double tail skirted grubs ..... again ? :-?

The AllMighty decided that we needed persons like Muddy to make us look at life from the bright side.

Foreheand or overhead cast, it 's not even an arm motion it 's a forearm motion, imagine a catapult, no wrist motion either you don 't whip with the rod like you can do with spinning gear or the reel overruns. Catt 's advice on the magazine tip and the distance is right on, so is Jig Man 's, your rod tip is what you use to aim at the target.

With the flat side on the top, if you rig them otherwise the bait will roll over and run with the flat side up.

Extend your arm and point at your target Rotate your wrist until the reel handle faces down Bend your elbow and move your forearm back to where you can see the reel with the corner of your eye Extend your elbow swiftly and the second you see your hand crossing your line of sight release the thumb The bait will fly stright to your target. Of course you, you need to practice to get the hang of it.

That 's exactly the weak spot of the pistol grip, you have no support for the rod, all the forces that come into play when hooking or fishting a fish fall on the worst link posible: a hinge, your wrist is the hinge.

For a budget the Sahara is hard to beat vs what it offers for the price, I have it, also have the Symetre, the Stradic and the Solstace and the budgety Sahara is one heck of a reel. I don 't owe allegiance to any brand, I recommend what I 've owned or own, now if you can part with the extra 20 dollars get the Symetre but you won 't loose a lot by getting the Sahara.

I don 't think there 's a better review than that one.

Kinda like a mook shield ? :-?

Aw God, what this world come to !?! :-/ our proud and brave service men and women wearing MOOK SHIRTS !!!!! , hope this is not one of the signs of the apocalypse or we 'll be in deeeeeep trubble.

Just trust him; I concur with his recomendation, a Daiwa Theory is also a good option ( TW has them on sale plus free shipping ).

Practically any soft bait manufacturer has a double twin tail skirted grub to offer, GYCBs double tail hula grub is one of them ( not endorsing ) just to mention a name, lots of colors and sizes from where to choose, *** also has double tail skirted grubs, check his page.

It doesn 't have to be a monster backpack, when I look at what I take when I go on foot patrol ( a small backpack with a 3600 size stowaway, some packs of worms and some spinnerbaits ) compared to what I take when I go on the boat I always wonder why do I carry all that stuff. :-?

Not all Cabela 's house brand reels are manufactured by Daiwa, the ones that are manufactured by Daiwa can be recognized easily and you know the base Daiwa model upon which they were are built, for ex the Fish Eagle Tournament II is built on the Daiwa PT100, the Procaster SE is built on the Daiwa PR100, the Prodigy is built on the Daiwa Advantage, the Revo SC is built on the Abu Revo S. There are some minor differences between the base model and the house brand model but in esence they are the same reel. As for the rods, you get what you pay for, higher prices mean higher quality in the materials used on manufacturing the rod, better guides, better seat, lighter rod, more sensitive rod. Hard to explain without having the rods in your hands.

Ever heard of the "mid strolling" and "shadding" techniques ? Grab a fluke, shaddick, bass assasin shad or GYCB shad shape worm somewhere in the 4-5" size; for mid strolling use either a shakey head or a EWG weighted hook, rig your bait t exposing the hook, cast and allow to sink for a couple of seconds, shake the bait with your rod tip a couple of times then reel in steadily for 3-5 turns of the reel handle and shake again, when you get a bite wait a few secondes before setting the hook, no need to try to cross their eyes immediately just lift the rod and when you feel the weight of the fish set the hook. for shadding use a wide gap hook, rig your bait wacky rig about 1/3 of it 's length from the head, cast and allow to sink and twitch your rod tip several times, the bait will dart sideways, flutter around and sink like a dying minnow, then reel in steadily for 3-5 turns of the reel handle ( the bait will swim paralel to you ) and twitch again, when you het a bite set the hook immediately. Any of those two techniques will catch them when they are crashing on the surface. Now y 'all reading owe me a six pack of brewskies for the tips.